PCP&C Turbo Cool 510? VS. Antec TRUE550 EPS12V

Is the PCP&C TC510 worth twice as much as it's competition????

  • Hell Yeah!!!

    Votes: 26 53.1%

  • Yes if you have a $5000 system but not a $3000 one.

    Votes: 12 24.5%

  • My God man, where can I get some of the shit you're on?

    Votes: 6 12.2%

  • WTF does all this mean???

    Votes: 5 10.2%
  • Total voters
    49
F

firtol88

Gawd
Joined
Apr 14, 2002
Messages
696
Thought that might get some attention, :)

Just wondering who thinks the subtleties between these PSUs justify the price difference i.e. $100 or twice the price.

For those who are not familiar

PCP&C and this

Antec and this

Please post the reasons for your vote if you have any :p


Though I think they had a good niche a few years ago it seems the performance differences are not as large but the price differences are... :(

edit links corrected
 
I picked the "Yes for a $5000 system, but not a $3000 one". In my case I figure that excludes peripherals & case, so $5000 for what's in your case. I'd consider one for a dual Xeon or Opteron system w/ SCSIs.
 
I would get the PC P&C. Two friends of mine have the antec and they said the adjustment pots only let them get the votlage upto where it should be. You almost get no overvolt out of it without modding it. Another alternative for something cheaper than the PC P&C is the OCZ powerstream 520W or 470W. Adjustable rails from the outside and 24+6Pin connectors for BTX make it future proof as well :D

Steve
 
I don't really get the point to the TrueControl PSU. I mean, the PSU should just put out the correct voltage all the time. Why should it be adjustable? I think it's just a gimick to give geeks something extra to play with.
My bios & MBM always read the voltages as being low, but my 2yo Antec True 550 non-adjustable is always spot on if I check it w/ a voltmeter. Well, at least on the 5V and 12V lines. I didn't bother checking the 3.3V since it's a hassle and I figured if the others are perfect it probably is too.
 
I was refering to the EPS version, not the true control.

Adjustable pots are there to allow you to tune a PSU for your system.

MBM and bios readings are a joke, don't trust them.
 
PCP&C all the way. Call 'em up and tell 'em how to make your PSU, its great. :D
I don't trust MBM or BIOS voltage readings either.

...just hold a PCP&C unit. They just radiate quality.
( damn, i hope i don't sound like a fanboy... :p )

I got one a year ago. put it into my computer and never gave it a second thought. Thats how it should be right?
 
Is the pcp&c worth twice as much as the antec?

From extensive experience with both, all I have to says is:

absofuckinglutley
 
sig

but if your running a specific setup consider ordering it with the +12V rail split
its stock a single rail, and thus just EPS12V compatible, not compliant
considering how tight the regulation is, that likely isnt an issue, since the spec was developed to isolate the instability induced from peripherals, however there would be a threshold where you might consider it, especially on a dual CPU setup with alot of HDDs

EPS12V comes in either a common plane 3 x 12V rails or a split plane 4 x 12V rails
you can get the first but not the second

and an EPS12V will have a considerable lifespan
so Id say its easily worth it for a $3000 system or even less
 
the True Controll 550 is the reason i bought my PCP&C 510w. my Antec had droopy rails, even when they were adjusted to the max.
 
XLShadow said:
PCP&C all the way. Call 'em up and tell 'em how to make your PSU, its great. :D
I don't trust MBM or BIOS voltage readings either.

...just hold a PCP&C unit. They just radiate quality.
( damn, i hope i don't sound like a fanboy... :p )

I got one a year ago. put it into my computer and never gave it a second thought. Thats how it should be right?
Click to expand...


http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1026352507#post1026352507

:D - I'll be firing this baad boy up on Monday if the stars line up :D
 
Ice Czar said:
sig

but if your running a specific setup consider ordering it with the +12V rail split
its stock a single rail, and thus just EPS12V compatible, not compliant
considering how tight the regulation is, that likely isnt an issue, since the spec was developed to isolate the instability induced from peripherals, however there would be a threshold where you might consider it, especially on a dual CPU setup with alot of HDDs

EPS12V comes in either a common plane 3 x 12V rails or a split plane 4 x 12V rails
you can get the first but not the second

and an EPS12V will have a considerable lifespan
so Id say its easily worth it for a $3000 system or even less
Click to expand...

this man knows what he is talking about!

Ice Czar said:
thus just EPS12V compatible, not compliant
Click to expand...

Nice post ;) Most overlook what those 2 words really mean, and the fact that there is world of a difference between the two :D
 
How loud is the one fan on the PCP&C? I am thinking of buying the modular one at FrozenCPU.
 
"My bios & MBM always read the voltages as being low, but my 2yo Antec True 550 non-adjustable is always spot on if I check it w/ a voltmeter. Well, at least on the 5V and 12V lines."

Hey zandor
My Enermax465 did the same thing, but when I put the PCP&C 510 in the numbers where higher in AIDA and the like. 11.98 vs 11.75 Enermax. Digi shows 12.03 vs 11.98
I think some of the juice is lost on the board. But even aside from that the rails are darn stable!!
From now on only the best will power this rig!
 
Fafnir said:
Quote:
That's because the people using multimeters are almost certainly not measuring at the same point the sensor the BIOS program is reading.

Most people assume wires conduct electricity with zero resistance. That's not the case; wires, including traces on a PC board, have non-zero resistance. Traces on a PC board are very thin and small, and have a pretty high resistance compared to even thin-gauge hookup wire. Even the thick power distribution lines on a PC board are not especially great conductors.

DC voltage drops because of the resistance between the source and the load.

Using a multimeter to measure voltage at a spare power connector is going to be different than the reading the chip takes because they're measuring two different voltages at two different parts of the circuit.

Its true that most DMMs are going to have better absolte accuracy than the cheap DACs in the voltage sensors on a motherboard chipset.

end quote

This is correct in that the voltage at the molex plugs is not indicitave of onboard voltages.
However, if you take voltage readings off the MB at places such as the voltage regulators, or at the pass transistors for the memory - such as is with the case with IC7 Max3 motherboards - and referance them with MBM or bios readings, you'll find the discrepancies, hence the movement among IC7 Max3 owners to mod their boards in order to get correct Vdimm and Vtt voltages. The end result of that has been increased reliability in overclocking when voltages greater than 2.9 Vdimm were required to get past fsb of 250 MHz.
Click to expand...


Fafnir brings up several very valid points
Ive yet to investigate exactly how and where the readings as reported to the SMBus are taken, but plan to in the near future
(hopefully Alex van Kamm author of the MBM can enlighten me, along with researching Intel reference boards and specs)
Im sure it varies quite alot with various implementations
 
I had stability issues and random reboots with both my Antec PSU'S (a Truepower 430 and a 480)
With the PCP&C, all those problems are gone!! Might just be a coincidence(sp)...But I think NOT
 
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