Polk PSW 10 Subwoffer $79.99 shipped

I'm debating whether this would be a worth while upgrade to match my polk center/fronts...
 
This is OK but polks lower end subs are not particularly good.
 
Worminater said:
I'm debating whether this would be a worth while upgrade to match my polk center/fronts...
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I don't know what you have now but it's a nice sub for the price. I emphasize the word price because I'm sure many will jump in here and point to several other subs that are better but I'm sure the cost is higher. I've owned this for about a year and have no complaints. As long as you aren't pounding the hell out of this thing, you'll be fine.
 
I use a generic yamaha currently; ~300usd HTIAB variety. I'm fairly confident this polk would be better (and match the rest of my upgrades); but i'm debating going over the top with the sub; the system is used for mostly for music and gaming where the floor shaking when a fireball hits could be preferable to a balanced/matched sound (can always turn an overpowered sub down)
 
i have this sub as a bedroom sub. nothing fancy or awesome about it but for the price, it's great. taking away the low frequencies your fronts were not meant to handle makes them sound better in addition to the added bass from this sub. i was more than happy with it for $99 last year.
 
This is a nice sub for small apartments. It does what it needs to do, which is fill out the bass that you can't get with even floorstanding speakers, at least those similar to the Monitor 60s.
 
I thought this was worth the $100 I spent on it a few months back! Nice Price! My budget basement pimp out is full of Polk Speakers, and they sound great to me, I'm no audiophile though!
 
Is there a simple way to connect this to my computer without going through a receiver? I would love to add a subwoofer to my Audioengine A2s.
 
weuntouchable said:
Is there a simple way to connect this to my computer without going through a receiver? I would love to add a subwoofer to my Audioengine A2s.
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It has the line-in inputs on the back. If your sound card has a sub-out then you're fine, or you can get a stereo Y splitter and a 3.5mm stereo->line cable to run both your 2.0 speakers and this sub off the primary/front output from the sound card.
 
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how does this compare to the klipsh 2.1 subwoofer? My sub just went out not to long ago
 
weuntouchable said:
Is there a simple way to connect this to my computer without going through a receiver? I would love to add a subwoofer to my Audioengine A2s.
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If you connect the subwoofer out from your soundcard to the subwoofer it MIGHT work.
 
450 said:
If you connect the subwoofer out from your soundcard to the subwoofer it MIGHT work.
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Quoted from NE:
The back panel has both line level and speaker level inputs so you can use the PSW10 with virtually any amplifier.

So yes, it'll work just fine, provided you have a line out or a 3.5mm splitter.
 
danbanger said:
While you may be right what alternatives do you suggest in this price range then? Also what khz is DD and DTS?
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Don't buy a 10" sub. Simple as that. The size of the driver has physical limitations on what sound frequencies it can produce and how powerful. Bare minimum go with a 12" sub. With a nice amp. In general I personally think any sub like this isn't worth the money. Save up and get something halfway decent, which unfortunately isn't in this price range. There are a few nicer models in the 250-350 range.

Here's the sub I want:

http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-box-pb13ultra.cfm
 
Okay, not everyone is going to spend $2,000 on a subwoofer . It's all about priorities. If I'm already using only $350 worth of speakers (Monitor 60s, CS 1, and 30s), why would I spend more than $100 on a subwoofer?

For that setup, it noticeably added to the bass, so it worked as advertised.
 
Matrices said:
Okay, not everyone is going to spend $2,000 on a subwoofer . It's all about priorities. If I'm already using only $350 worth of speakers (Monitor 60s, CS 1, and 30s), why would I spend more than $100 on a subwoofer?
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because you are wasting your money, i'd just keep saving.
 
Loctus said:
because you are wasting your money, i'd just keep saving.
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Except that I'm not, since I clearly hear the difference between it on and off in games and music. I don't need thousands of dollars of music hardware to be satisfied with sound.
 
SeegsElite said:
In general I personally think any sub like this isn't worth the money.
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Not worth 80 bucks? C'mon dude, this isn't going towards the audiophile crowd anyway. I've had this little bastard for about 6 months now and it was well worth the bill it cost me. It'll rattle the room like a motherfucker and piss off my wife. That's good enough for the price by far.
 
I have one of these and it works just fine for movies. I would rather put that saved money towards other things, like camera gear or going on a trip.
 
Matrices said:
Except that I'm not, since I clearly hear the difference between it on and off in games and music. I don't need thousands of dollars of music hardware to be satisfied with sound.
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indeed, only around $200 is enough to get a BIC or dayton subwoofer and be well satisfied. However, $70 is not, getting a subwoofer to get to theoretical 35 hz is lolz all around.
 
Wondering if I should get this to compliment my swans m10 for pc gaming/music...
Suggestions?
 
How many of you who are happy with it have actually had or heard other similarly priced subwoofers? I am just saying at the low end many people are less than thrilled with polks subs. This thing only goes down to 35hz an 8" bic america can do that for around the same price normally if it goes on sale it would probably hit $80 and be a better sub.

Also within a brand generally a larger sub goes deeper but you can make a smaller sub go deeper to depending on the housing and amp/driver. I spent $350 on a 10 inch sub and it can drive down further than lots of 12" subs.

If you dont care or have never had anything more than a PC 5.1 setup anyway and you need a sub this isnt bad. You probably have no reference from which to judge. But do not jump on this if you are uneducated just because its listed in hot deals, only take it if you were looking already and your speakers need a hich crossover anyway. This is warm. I just think this is a bad price range for a sub all you have here is a boom box in which case you should save more and just grap whatever garbage you can find for $50 or whatever if all you want to do is have something that is loud and knocks pictures off level.
 
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10 inch subs are known to produce sharper bass while 12's produce deeper bass. Granted, you want a 12 if your speakers already produce decent bass. I have the 12 inch version of this, and it is a nice sub. I expect to enjoy the 10 just as much for my application. For 80 bucks, this is a great deal.
 
I have 3 of them:

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Why do I have 3, you ask ? (or not, but I'll tell you anyway)

I have 3 because that's how many it took to replace the single BIC H-100 I moved out to the HT room.

And I was able to get them cheap through polkdirect/ebay.

I'd let all 3 go for $125 today if I could find a local buyer.
 
SeegsElite said:
Please explain why I'm wrong. I'd love to hear your reasoning.
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Sometimes more cone area does go hand in hand with lower frequency extension. With all things being equal, what more cone area does is increase the subs output. This can be described as loudness or the increase in sound pressure. Most of the time an increase in cone size also offers greater efficiently, higher QTS / lower FS. But you can't use cone area to judge how low of a frequency a woofer can reach.
 
I'm waiting for a really good special on the PSW111 to match the RM95 set I bought for a great price. I've pretty much got the equivalent of the PSW10 with my RM6750, and it's great for the power range.

Upgraded my receiver, so I need to upgrade the RM6750s...otherwise, I'll definitely blow them. As it is, I blew the left and right fronts a few weeks ago with the old VSX-1018AH-K AV receiver, listening to Beethoven's 9th. Now I've got the VSX-1120-K, so the RM6750's won't do (at higher volume.)

Face it, low to mid range speakers/subs aren't the audiophile's choice, but not everyone can afford high-end equipment. They've got to find the best "bang-for-buck" balance.

Better to suggest viable alternatives than to shoot others down with no constructive advice.
 
Blazemore said:
Sometimes more cone area does go hand in hand with lower frequency extension. With all things being equal, what more cone area does is increase the subs output. This can be described as loudness or the increase in sound pressure. Most of the time an increase in cone size also offers greater efficiently, higher QTS / lower FS. But you can't use cone area to judge how low of a frequency a woofer can reach.
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While that may be true, though, I've never seen a 10" sub claim to have distinct power below 30 hertz.
 
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