Reccomend me a heatercore/radiator

S

SocceRich20

2[H]4U
Joined
Aug 4, 2003
Messages
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I plan on mounting this in a Chieftec style case, more specifically an Aspire X-Superalien. I want to mount two 120mm fans on it. I'd like it to be easily mountable, and easy to get a shroud for it. More importantly, I want superb temperatures. I have a RBX cpu block and a Maze 4 GPU block. I'm probably going to get the DD 12v pump. What would the best rad/heatercore solution for myself be?

Thanks in advance,
Rich
 
Most people that have been around water cooling longer than me would suggest getting the biggest heatercore that you can fit into your case.

I'm going with a Black Ice Pro 3 myself.
 
go with a '77 bonnaville core, or if you want a kit buy a 2fresh kit. It's the same core. the most effecient for it's size....
 
if you dont have room for a dual 120 heater core. you could always mount two seperate dtek pro 120 cores in two seperate spots if necessary. just thought id throw that out there. plus i highly recommend the dtek cores. i love the two i have. look nice and you can swap out the barbs on it if necessary.
 
I'll probably go with a 2Fresh core, if I can get in contact with him, and if he has any shrouds left. If not I'll pick up a 77' Bonneville core at AutoZone or something.
 
Yeah, I love my 2fresh core. I was one of his first customers, it was one of the best buys for my computer ever. Good deal, great performance, perfect size. It fits nicely between the drive bays in most computers.
 
SocceRich20 said:
Any other suggestions?
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I use automobile heater cores as well. This is very simple science here, I recommend you focus your attention on the TEC and water core heatsinks.
 
rgathright said:
I use automobile heater cores as well. This is very simple science here, I recommend you focus your attention on the TEC and water core heatsinks.
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He has no clue. He registered here to get help with watercooling the fuel lines on his truck. He doesn't know the first thing about water cooling a PC.
 
PsycoGeek said:
He has no clue. He registered here to get help with watercooling the fuel lines on his truck. He doesn't know the first thing about water cooling a PC.
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You know... the [H]ard forum used to be a much more friendly place. The guy requested information about waterblocks. The same waterblocks used to cool PC's. So WHAT if he isnt going to use it on a computer.

I dislike people like you, whom think you are above all others just because of something you learned. Undoubtedly learned with the help of others.

Get over yourself. If you cannot say something helpful... say nothing. Otherwise, You = Troll.
 
You dont need to cool fuel. Fuel works better heated, it atomizes better.

The guy knows nothing about cars, watercooling, or PCs.
 
You dont need to cool fuel. Fuel works better heated, it atomizes better.
I have to disagree with this statement. Cool fuel does alot for engines. The biggest one would be it's resistance to pinging, or knocking. This is the reason turbocharged cars have large intercoolers, water injection and many other aids to reduce the incoming temperature of the air/fuel mixture.

Second, cooling the fuel prevents vapor lock. There are many cars who's fuel pumps will lock up and not pump any fuel and as a result overheat because the fuel was too hot and vaporized in the lines.

back to the original question, get the biggest core you can fit into your case. I'm using a 77 boneville core it barely fits, but it works well after it's all installed. All I did to mod it was cut off most of it's barbs,slip some 5/8's tubing over it, and clamp it down with some hoseclamps. This is the defacto standard for heater cores that take 2 120's.
 
After listening to these guys I also bought the bonneville core. There are two different ones. I believe the one I got was the one for a car with A/C. The other one w/o A/C had different tubing and size requirements. I think it is the correct one. Going to get a swifty MCP pump and am shopping waterblocks right now. Also hand building a custom plenum to create two different air zones in the case to miniimize heat transfer. Whoo, I can't wait!
 
I got a 2Fresh core too. Very inexpensive, looks great, and it works awesome! I got 2 120mm aluminum Evercool fans attached to mine, using a crappy temporary cardboard shroud.
 
heatercores... :)

quick breakdown:
if you have the room and a pump with enough head, the 2-302 (aka 77b'ville w/ac) is hard to beat. The 302 cores are fairly easy to mod and the face of the core has enough room to where you can easily fit dual 120mm fans. The problem with the 2-302 is usually the overall dimensions if you plan to fit it inside the case as it is a bit long.
specs:
10-3/4" X 5-5/8" X 2" w/o the tanks
about 12-1/2" X 5-5/8 X 2" with the tanks

Due to the dimensions of the core, you will definitely need a shroud to get the most out of it. Most of the ones that are currently available thru commercial channels have the same problem - they don't have enough standoff between the fans and the face of the core. To really get the most out of your fans the shroud should have at least 1.25" of standoff but closer to 2" of standoff is optimal. So, to get the most out of one of these cores, you need to build a shroud or track down someone to build one for you.

example of a shroud with a decent amount of standoff:
hcwshroudfans1.jpg


other options if space is a concern:
2-199 (aka '77 bonneville without ac)
specs:
core: about 9-1/2" X 6"
with the tanks: 10-3/4" x 6" X 2"

dual 120s will fit on a 2-199 but it is a tighter fit than with the 302. The nice part about the 2-199 is it is very inexpensive and only take a $7 tubing cutter and some 3M wet/dry paper to get it ready to be hooked into the cooling loop if you are using 1/2" ID tubing (provided you get a 199 with round tubes - the oval tubed ones require a little more effort).
same as above for the shroud.

2-342 ('70 c10 chevy truck 350 engine with a/c) - single pass core so it can be used with a pump that has a little less head than what is required for either of the above. same applies for the shroud as above.

pics of all three during various stages of the mod process:
3corcr.jpg

the black one in the front is a 2-342, the one in the middle is a 2-199 and the one in the back is a 2-302.

pic of a modded 2-199:
2199bgc.jpg


as for the fans, 120mm x 38mm DC SanAce (model 109R1212H1011) hooked to a 7-12v fan controller are the way to go.
 
l33t9eek said:
You dont need to cool fuel. Fuel works better heated, it atomizes better.
I have to disagree with this statement. Cool fuel does alot for engines. The biggest one would be it's resistance to pinging, or knocking. This is the reason turbocharged cars have large intercoolers, water injection and many other aids to reduce the incoming temperature of the air/fuel mixture.

Second, cooling the fuel prevents vapor lock. There are many cars who's fuel pumps will lock up and not pump any fuel and as a result overheat because the fuel was too hot and vaporized in the lines.

back to the original question, get the biggest core you can fit into your case. I'm using a 77 boneville core it barely fits, but it works well after it's all installed. All I did to mod it was cut off most of it's barbs,slip some 5/8's tubing over it, and clamp it down with some hoseclamps. This is the defacto standard for heater cores that take 2 120's.
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Wrong again buddy: there is no fuel going through the intercooler, air is. The best thing to have is warm fuel and cold air. The temp of the fuel will not affect the final temp of the mixture. Also, I have never heard of fuel vaporizing in the lines, especially since there is no room for expansion in nearly every fuel line I have ever seen... Without the ability to expand, no vaporizing will happen.

I asked #rotor why he had a fuel heater on the car he is building and this is what I got:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=9869&page=2&pp=25
 
When it comes to rotary motors I have zero expertise when it comes to knocking and fuel burn characteristics, but it's a whole different story if you're talking air cooled flat 6's

yes intercoolers just have air in them, but the principle is the same, you can stuff more fuel/air into a cylinder if it's all cool, now granted the motors I'm used to working with have fuel operating pressures of 20 bar so atomization is not a problem at all.

I've heard of fuel vaporizing in the lines and in improperly setup FI systems and more notably in carbs, it happens but it's fairly rare.



This discussion is way off topic, PM me if you'd like to discuss this somewhere else...
 
A rotary engine burns fuel the same way a piston engine does: compress it and ignite it.

Also, when the pressurized fuel is atomized, it loses all of its pressure and therefore becomes endothermic. Even if it is at 170C, it will cool off drastically once atomized. And because there is much more air than fuel in the mixture, the amount of heat in the fuel will have little effect on the heat of the overall mixture.
 
amazing isnt it?

hardforums used to be good. Then they shut it down for a month.
 
Quick question... What is the total length of a 2-342 heater core (including end tanks)? I really want to mount one at the top of my Lian Li PC60 case, but my measurements show I have a tad less than 12.5" The 2-302 seems great, but I want to go single-pass if at all possible, even if it means hacking up the drive rails.
 
Elmmx5 said:
Quick question... What is the total length of a 2-342 heater core (including end tanks)? I really want to mount one at the top of my Lian Li PC60 case, but my measurements show I have a tad less than 12.5" The 2-302 seems great, but I want to go single-pass if at all possible, even if it means hacking up the drive rails.
Click to expand...

a 342 with the tanks is usually right around 11" x 6.125" x 2" - there are some differences between different manufacturers but they are normally 11" +/- .25" on overall length.

you will definitely have to hack thru some drives for a 342 - 6.125" sure as hell won't go in there.

In the alternative, you could cover a 302 into a single pass core. I have done that a few times for the fun of it but br408408 was nice enough to make a mini-guide on the process - it starts 4 posts down from the top on this page if you are interested:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=304440&page=5&pp=30
 
Wow thanks, looks like I'll definitely be going with a 2-342 then. I think I can stuff this in by only hacking up one rail (can't exactly hack both off since one is a mounting point for the motherboard) and mounting it offset a tad. Funny you also linked that how-to to make a single-pass radiator out of a 2-302. Since I have only a shade less than 12.5" between the PSU and the front of the case, using the 2-302 was never that much of an option. But.... what I really want to do is add a barb to the 2-342 to use as a fillport. It just seems like a great way to avoid having to plumb in a res or add a T somewhere in the loop. This will really help!
 
do you have to mod them to fit 1/2 inch tubing? and are these better than the black ice and the other heater cores?
 
Yes you do, at the minimum you have to cut the tubes down to slip tubing over it. Here is a good link as to what's involved. These are at least as good as a Black Ice of the same size, if properly set up they are even more effective.
 
that mod seems a lil complicated for someone with little experience (like me) is there any simpler way?
 
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