Very cool, must be were you get some of your great experience from, your wire management is best on [h]!!!!
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Road RagE II
- Thread starter PS-RagE
- Start date
Very cool, must be were you get some of your great experience from, your wire management is best on [h]!!!!
DumpsterDiver727
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2006
- Messages
- 129
It has been a while since I've seen this thread. As everyone else, I love the wiring job. And the wire colors too. Glad to see it's almost finished, and you didn't have too many problems.
We love ya for the "the show"!!!
Ohhhh my god. That's fux awesome lmao. So badass man. I hate looking at worklogs... I feel so lazy. + I feel like I don't have the guts to take my stuff apart... I'd just hire someone... Guess SOMEONE has to know what they're doing. Props to you, very professional.
So now that the subwoofer enclosure/amp rack is fully assembled, its time to finally get it in the Tundra!
Its really heavy - took three of us to carry it
The large rear seat was removed and in it goes. But when I get the seat back in - it doesn't fit!!!! The whole thing is sitting two inches too far forward and the overhang from the amplifiers won't allow the seat to to lock into place! If there was a time to panic during this project - this is it!
The entire fit is off. Both sides are out of place:
Closer inspection shows the rail for the seat is in the way:
During the entire design and build, the seat and the sub box were never both in the truck at the same time so I hadn't noticed this You can see how the rail is holding it an inch to the right. Since this was formed to the back wall, an inch throws the entire fit off by a lot.
Out it comes and the "leg" of the sub box is modified to clear the bracket:
Back in it goes and <whew> it fits like it was made to:
So now the wiring has to be cut in. The switched power feed is rerouted to the main power at the back and my radio wires are all connected.
To get the power from the big fuse to the battery I enlarged this hole:
And fit a strip of nylon continuous grommet:
The capacitor has to first be charged through a lamp before I can connect it to the battery. I put a label on the power run so if a mechanic disconnects it he (hopefully) won't short it to the frame:
Finally, I can power it up:
Now that is cool!
And here is the final fit and resting place of the seats:
While I wouldn't want to sit behind the driver it can still be done.
So, next up is getting the speakers installed!
.
Its really heavy - took three of us to carry it
The large rear seat was removed and in it goes. But when I get the seat back in - it doesn't fit!!!! The whole thing is sitting two inches too far forward and the overhang from the amplifiers won't allow the seat to to lock into place! If there was a time to panic during this project - this is it!
The entire fit is off. Both sides are out of place:
Closer inspection shows the rail for the seat is in the way:
During the entire design and build, the seat and the sub box were never both in the truck at the same time so I hadn't noticed this
You can see how the rail is holding it an inch to the right. Since this was formed to the back wall, an inch throws the entire fit off by a lot.Out it comes and the "leg" of the sub box is modified to clear the bracket:
Back in it goes and <whew> it fits like it was made to:
So now the wiring has to be cut in. The switched power feed is rerouted to the main power at the back and my radio wires are all connected.
To get the power from the big fuse to the battery I enlarged this hole:
And fit a strip of nylon continuous grommet:
The capacitor has to first be charged through a lamp before I can connect it to the battery. I put a label on the power run so if a mechanic disconnects it he (hopefully) won't short it to the frame:
Finally, I can power it up:
Now that is cool!
And here is the final fit and resting place of the seats:
While I wouldn't want to sit behind the driver it can still be done.
So, next up is getting the speakers installed!
.
Private_Ops
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2007
- Messages
- 1,870
WOW!! Thats absolutely AMAZING!!!
Welsper
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2005
- Messages
- 754
Looks awesome, dude.
if you flipped the layout of yout amps and crossovers, you would gain about 2 inches of seat recline/legroom
or
you could ditch the plastic seatbacking and recover it with fabric, this would gain you even more room depending on how deep the seats are, it will allow the amps to tuck into the seats, and get rid of a possible rattle point, and keep you from haveing to rework your amp and crossover layout, (as well as not haveing to look at holes from the old mounting locations)
or
you could ditch the plastic seatbacking and recover it with fabric, this would gain you even more room depending on how deep the seats are, it will allow the amps to tuck into the seats, and get rid of a possible rattle point, and keep you from haveing to rework your amp and crossover layout, (as well as not haveing to look at holes from the old mounting locations)
Funny you should say that. I've got an appointment with the upholsterer tomorrow to quote on redoing the seatbacks.
My original design had the crossovers in the front but the wiring wouldn't fit right. The amps have to face forward in order to have access to the settings so there wasn't enough room for the speaker plugs to hang off the back.
Got the seat back from the upholstery shop today. I removed the plastic back and had him stitch a simple fuzzy grey carpet on the back. Now the seat slides all the way back. Much better fit and more room should I have a passenger back there:
Thanks.
Can't do blowthrough. The bed is small enough and I need the room (hauling wood, cooler, bikes, etc)
Components are Alpine SPX-17PRO mids and tweets and Alpine SPX-17MB mid-bass. I'll be starting on that this Friday. Hopefully have done by the end of the weekend.
Can't do blowthrough. The bed is small enough and I need the room (hauling wood, cooler, bikes, etc)
Components are Alpine SPX-17PRO mids and tweets and Alpine SPX-17MB mid-bass. I'll be starting on that this Friday. Hopefully have done by the end of the weekend.
FrEaKy
[H] Movie and TV Show Review Guy
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2003
- Messages
- 14,115
thats rocken dude, I like it!
Long weekend means work can get done! Time to tackle those door speakers.
Off with the "skin":
Here is the replacement tweeter next to the factory one:
Lots of little parts to make up the tweeter assembly:
Obviously this isn't going to fit without a fight. So hafta drill the hole in the sail a little larger:
Using the dremel and my knife, I smooth out and finish the mount. Got pretty much a perfect fit:
Next comes the woofer. Again, here is the factory 6x9 with its replacements:
Before trying to fit these I've got to soundproof the inside of the door. What a pain this is - glad I've only got to do it once more!
Obviously, the 6.5" isn't going to fit in the 6x9's hole so I make an MDF mount for it:
I painted it black so it won't be noticable through the grill:
I also mounted the mid bass with another MDF mount. First I cut a hole in the door skin where I want the grill to go:
Now that I can see where the grill is, I cut the mounting hole for the speaker:
A test fit shows the foam behind the door skin (I assume it is support for the arm rest) is holding the assembly too far out:
Out with a fillet knife and trim that down some. I also now used RTV to hold the foam securely to the panel:
I fished three runs of 14/2 speaker wire into the door. Man, that wasn't easy!
The rubber tube that the wires run through into the door is only about an inch in diameter and there is pretty much an inch of wires already in there!
Next is a second layer of soundproofing this time using the thinner foil backed variety. This type is sooooooo much easier to work with. The inside took about three hours, this took less than one:
I put some black duct seal around the hole where the woofer will fit:
And in it goes:
Next, the mid bass:
Any wiring that looked less than secure was wrapped with fuzzy velcro to ensure no rattles:
And here is the end result:
Now to get that skin back on.
I have to trim the mounting flange away from the grill for the mid bass:
It is clamped in place:
And glued to the panel using JB Weld:
Oops - off with this thing!
Here is the final re-assembly:
Of course, I had to rebadge the factory grill:
Next is to run those cables to the amp rack and start over again!
With luck, by this time next week I'll be doing level settings
.
Off with the "skin":
Here is the replacement tweeter next to the factory one:
Lots of little parts to make up the tweeter assembly:
Obviously this isn't going to fit without a fight. So hafta drill the hole in the sail a little larger:
Using the dremel and my knife, I smooth out and finish the mount. Got pretty much a perfect fit:
Next comes the woofer. Again, here is the factory 6x9 with its replacements:
Before trying to fit these I've got to soundproof the inside of the door. What a pain this is - glad I've only got to do it once more!
Obviously, the 6.5" isn't going to fit in the 6x9's hole so I make an MDF mount for it:
I painted it black so it won't be noticable through the grill:
I also mounted the mid bass with another MDF mount. First I cut a hole in the door skin where I want the grill to go:
Now that I can see where the grill is, I cut the mounting hole for the speaker:
A test fit shows the foam behind the door skin (I assume it is support for the arm rest) is holding the assembly too far out:
Out with a fillet knife and trim that down some. I also now used RTV to hold the foam securely to the panel:
I fished three runs of 14/2 speaker wire into the door. Man, that wasn't easy!
Next is a second layer of soundproofing this time using the thinner foil backed variety. This type is sooooooo much easier to work with. The inside took about three hours, this took less than one:
I put some black duct seal around the hole where the woofer will fit:
And in it goes:
Next, the mid bass:
Any wiring that looked less than secure was wrapped with fuzzy velcro to ensure no rattles:
And here is the end result:
Now to get that skin back on.
I have to trim the mounting flange away from the grill for the mid bass:
It is clamped in place:
And glued to the panel using JB Weld:
Oops - off with this thing!
Here is the final re-assembly:
Of course, I had to rebadge the factory grill:
Next is to run those cables to the amp rack and start over again!
With luck, by this time next week I'll be doing level settings
.
PS-Rage I was hoping to see you do kick panels. I'm not to fond of the midbass mount, maybe just the grill. The type-x are great, i ran a pair of the 2 way components in the past and htey were nice. I really wish you did kick panels, kicks for the midrange and even tweeters maybe down there, midbass in the stock 6x9 location would have looked so much cleaner, probably tuned out better.
I am waiting to see this done. Nice job on the door deadening, any reason for using Tsunami sound deadedning? (i assume your a reseller/dealer). I used Second Skin (i think, cant remember) or some similar butyl based, always wanted to dry the liquid deadener, heard it was cake for doing floors and larger surfaces.
Btw, caps do nothing =p
I am waiting to see this done. Nice job on the door deadening, any reason for using Tsunami sound deadedning? (i assume your a reseller/dealer). I used Second Skin (i think, cant remember) or some similar butyl based, always wanted to dry the liquid deadener, heard it was cake for doing floors and larger surfaces.
Btw, caps do nothing =p
acctually.. they do.. while they dont help sound quality, in a high draw system like that it takes the stress off the chargeing system and keeps the system from frying the battery, chargeing system, ignition system, and possibily the ECU. ( ever seen a battey pop in a high end system??? caps help prevent that)
swatbat
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2001
- Messages
- 13,056
Yea what he said. It is funny though to see someone setup a higher powered system without them and watch the lights dim along with the bass hits.
I would have liked to put them down there but the truck's kick panels are too small to modify and I would have had to fabricate the entire panel (ugh). Also, there is an assload of wiring in the kicks so the much larger panels would have taken up a good deal of foot room. Besides, with all the snow and slush in that area it just didn't seem like a good idea.
My original plan was to mount the midbass in the door panels and replace the dash speakers with the woofer. But, it turned out the dash speakers were tiny little 3" jobbers so that concept was thrown out 'cause I sure as hell wasn't going to start rebuilding sections of the dash. I was really afraid I was going to end up having to put the midbass in the rear doors - no amount of time correction could have fixed that stage, I think.
Thanks! You should feel how heavy that door is now. Feels like an armoured car!
I used the Tsunami 'cause it was the brand my supplier could get the most of the quickestAs I mentioned earlier, the truck has a 150A alternator (i.e. a big one) and this system at full tilt is capable of drawing 116A at 13.8v (1600W) continuously. However, peak current draw could be upwards of 165A (2200W) and thus the cap to smooth out the bumps.
.
[H]utch;1032270921 said:
I have had good experience with Alpine and, again, it is the brand my supplier sells. I get all my toys from the same guy whether it is computer parts, stereo equipment, camera gear, whatever.
The backup camera is indeed Toyota's
Oops - sorry! Work has installed a 'Net Nanny and I've lost access to [H] (and pretty much everywhere else) during the day.
Anyhow, the driver's side sail turned out perfect - even better than the passenger's side and I was really happy with that one
Got the sound deadening done and the speakers in driver's door.
Set my amp gains to prevent clipping:
And using one of my wife's studio mics, some test tones I downloaded and a Real Time Analyzer I ran some level tests.
I don't know if the mic didn't have a full enough range or a flat response but I didn't believe the results and have just set it "by ear" for now. It sounds really good but I'm sure there is more in there and am currently looking for a professional with the proper tools to squeak the last bit out of it.
So, once the snow has finally finished melting and the streets are dry, I'm going to have it detailed and I can get some pictures of the completed project
.
Anyhow, the driver's side sail turned out perfect - even better than the passenger's side and I was really happy with that one
Got the sound deadening done and the speakers in driver's door.
Set my amp gains to prevent clipping:
And using one of my wife's studio mics, some test tones I downloaded and a Real Time Analyzer I ran some level tests.
I don't know if the mic didn't have a full enough range or a flat response but I didn't believe the results and have just set it "by ear" for now. It sounds really good but I'm sure there is more in there and am currently looking for a professional with the proper tools to squeak the last bit out of it.
So, once the snow has finally finished melting and the streets are dry, I'm going to have it detailed and I can get some pictures of the completed project
.
Welsper
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2005
- Messages
- 754
Slick, man...sliiiick.
Living Weapon
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2007
- Messages
- 448
Wow, that sail did come out nice
If you scrounge around for a desktop PC with an overpriced sound card (even an SB audigy) and compensate for published frequency response of your mic, and use a good mic amp if it needs one, you can probably get 30-17000Hz dialed in +/- half a db of flat. Also, check your numbers with the doors closed and windows up vs. a window open - makes a huge diff in the highs, since glass is so reflective. At high SPL it can totally change the loading of bass enclosures too, driving an enclosed cabin vs. an open one - due to the lack of parallel surfaces in a cabin, this tends to frequency-shift the harmonics of a ported enclosure, rather than contribute to standing waves.
A vocal mic should be pretty flat across 300-3000Hz, but outside of that who knows. The nicer ones sometimes have specs available if you want to make corrections from the graph. also, the mic amplifier you use could make a big difference, especially for a mic that needs phantom power (check the details on your mic). Lastly, I think the analog to digital conversion in a laptop is likely the biggest limitation.
If you scrounge around for a desktop PC with an overpriced sound card (even an SB audigy) and compensate for published frequency response of your mic, and use a good mic amp if it needs one, you can probably get 30-17000Hz dialed in +/- half a db of flat. Also, check your numbers with the doors closed and windows up vs. a window open - makes a huge diff in the highs, since glass is so reflective. At high SPL it can totally change the loading of bass enclosures too, driving an enclosed cabin vs. an open one - due to the lack of parallel surfaces in a cabin, this tends to frequency-shift the harmonics of a ported enclosure, rather than contribute to standing waves.
Living Weapon
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2007
- Messages
- 448
oh, a bit more on the above - if the windows open vs. closed does make a diff for your application, compromise based on how you drive/listen. Same goes for SPL vs. bass harmonic frequencies - see if you can measure anything at your typical highway driving SPL (I assume you turn it up to compensate for wind noise).
Wow, that sail did come out nice
A vocal mic should be pretty flat across 300-3000Hz, but outside of that who knows. The nicer ones sometimes have specs available if you want to make corrections from the graph. also, the mic amplifier you use could make a big difference, especially for a mic that needs phantom power (check the details on your mic). Lastly, I think the analog to digital conversion in a laptop is likely the biggest limitation.
If you scrounge around for a desktop PC with an overpriced sound card (even an SB audigy) and compensate for published frequency response of your mic, and use a good mic amp if it needs one, you can probably get 30-17000Hz dialed in +/- half a db of flat. Also, check your numbers with the doors closed and windows up vs. a window open - makes a huge diff in the highs, since glass is so reflective. At high SPL it can totally change the loading of bass enclosures too, driving an enclosed cabin vs. an open one - due to the lack of parallel surfaces in a cabin, this tends to frequency-shift the harmonics of a ported enclosure, rather than contribute to standing waves.
Thanks, I suspected it was something like that. I have an M-Audio "Audiophile 2496" in my workstation but I'm not going to drag that out to the bay. Next time I'm in a big city I'm going to find a pro shop and have them dial it in for me.
thebeephaha
2[H]4U
- Joined
- May 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,054
Seriously! Rage you left us hanging.