Sandy Bridge GD05 mATX gaming rig/HTPC

Blahman

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 8, 2005
Messages
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So after a long and epic saga involving the worst winter weather in decades, Intel design errors, manufacturer recalls, order cancellations and finally getting all the parts and putting them together, I have my new build up and running!

Initially I wanted to go mini-ITX but the lack of good Sandy Bridge mini-ITX boards swayed me to micro-ATX instead, where after some research I decided upon the Silverstone GD05 mATX HTPC case, Core i5 2500K, ASUS P8P67-M Pro, and going SLI with a pair of GTX 285s I already had.

Since I was reusing all my drives, I was able to just keep my current Win7 install and just install the new drivers for the motherboard and reinstall the NVIDIA drivers and it's like nothing changed, except the hardware! Eventually I will do another clean install but not at this point as everything seems to be stable.

Overclocking will be next, but for now, here is my GD05 mini-review:

I read a couple of reviews about the GD05 and decided it was the one.

Working inside the case is a bit of a hassle at first, but once you learn its temperament it isn't so bad. The main thing I learned is that you really need to install the processor and HSF with the board outside of the case first. There is just no room for a normal person's hands and fingers around the CPU socket area inside this case. Also, don't bother with right-angle SATA data connectors (except for the optical drive) -- again there is just no room for them, likely because the case is only 5.5" tall, and the 2.5" and one of the 3.5" drives are actually mounted upside down.

The spot for the second 3.5" drive is a little odd. This is the one that's mounted upside down. The SATA cables actually go over the video cards and thus need to be unplugged before removing them. You also have to cut out a bit of the rubber seal they included here, to make room for the SATA cables, although this isn't as bad as it sounds. Apparently the seal is to improve airflow for the drives.

As mentioned in most of the reviews, a modular power supply is a must with this case so you aren't overwhelemed with cables you aren't using and more importantly, so the drive cage can be easily removed by unplugging the one power cable from the power supply instead of the multiple power cables from the drives. I did end up using a SATA power extension for the optical drive because the spacing of the modular cable wasn't quite right to reach both the ODD and the 2nd 3.5" drive.

Getting the lid back on the case with all those PCI-E cables is a bit tricky, you have to really mash those cables flat, and then use the lid itself to keep them flat when putting it on. I was going to use some 90 degree PCI-E power extensions but there is no need. Just takes a bit of elbow grease and care to get all those cables to lay down in the ~10mm of space you have to work with between the top of the graphics cards and where the lid wants to be.

Other than that the case is actually quite workable, with included cable ties and tie-down holes, and plenty of space to stow excess cable lengths next to the PSU and in front of the motherboard.

My one other complaint with the case is pretty minor, but they really should have included thumb screws for the top cover! I can't complain too much, because at $90 this case is really well put together and not that expensive, so I can forgive them for the lack of toolless entry, plus you can always get your own thumbscrews for a pittance.

This case is amazingly quiet. I cannot hear it at all from atop its shelf 3 feet away. Temperatures seem to be good and its got enough room for two dual slot 11" video cards (they recommend the rear-exhaust type), a full-size PSU, 2 3.5" and 1 2.5" drive as well as an optical drive. You can even replace the second 3.5" drive with a 5th expansion slot, although if using a PCI/PCI-Express card here you would need some sort of riser.

On to the pics:
Complete and sitting on my desk's top shelf
2x120mm fans keeping things cool and quiet
Rear connections, using my old Shuttle's thumbscrews :)
Lid off, top view
Lots of cables!
GPUs and ODD cage removed
Another angle
Upside down PSU, rubber seal and second 3.5" drive
2.5" and 3.5" drives in there, somewhere...
IO shield and rear vents. Room for an additional 2 80mm fans here.
 
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Thanks man! Looking forward to actually playing some games on this baby!
 
Thanks!

For grins I ran the original Crysis GPU benchmark with SLI off/on. Getting close to 100% scaling with 25ish FPS without and 50ish with. No overclocking yet.

That's at 1080p, DX10, 32-bit, all very high, no AA.
 
So for some preliminary overclocking results, I have managed to get to 4.4GHz (100 BCLK x 44 multiplier) on just 1.3v. Prime95 stable for 8 hours. Load temps are around 80C in Prime95 but only around 50C in games, so not too worried about that. Temps are as reported by Real Temp which is about 10C higher than those reported by AI Suite II.

Voltage adjustment is a little tricky on this board compared to the ATX boards. Instead of a single voltage setting, you have a base voltage offset (+ or - 0.005v increments) and Additional Turbo Voltage, where you key in an offset and it rounds it to whatever increment is closest.

But I'm really impressed so far! I still think the most amazing thing is how quiet and efficient everything is even when fully loaded. I also checked my UPS which reports wattage consumed and its only around 330W in Prime95 and 520W or so in Crysis with SLI enabled.

Here are the settings I'm currently using:
Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BCLK/PEG Frequency: 100
Auto Save OC BCLK/PEG Frequency in ME: Disabled
Turbo Ratio: 44 (By All Cores)

Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: Auto
DRAM Timings: Auto

Under CPU Power Management:
CPU Ratio: Auto
SpeedStep: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: 0.044
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto

Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.005

DRAM Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: 1.055V (default: 1.05V)
Load-line Calibration: Disabled
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled


Here is a good thread I found for P8P67-M Pro overclocking: http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/916621-asus-p8p67-m-pro-ocing-guide.html
 
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Grats on the OC! I'm at a loss and stuck at 4.0 with auto tuning via the asus software, nothing i've read online or tried on my own have led to a stable OC (even your settings). This isn't new mind you, I seem to have zero luck OC any build I've ever made :\
 
Doh! That kind of sucks, but hey, 4.0 is still a lot better than 3.3. I wonder what could be wrong though?

I uninstalled the AI Suite II stuff, it was pretty useless, just OC from the BIOS instead.
 
I made it up to 4.5GHz now but had to add a bit of voltage to get it stable in the Prime95 blend test, which is what people are saying to use instead/in addition to the small FFTs test as it reveals instability issues much earlier.

So my new settings are the same except:
Turbo Ratio: 45
Additional Turbo Voltage: 0.104
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010


This results in a Vcore of 1.352-1.36 in CPUz, still very conservative from what I've seen from other users.
 
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Whoa! I just noticed on the Memory tab in CPUz that my memory is running at half the speed and tightened timings for some reason. Going to have to set those manually I guess. Unless CPUz is wrong...

edit: yep CPUz is wrong, AIDA64 shows the correct timings. Nevermind then :)
 
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So further tweaking lead me to setting my RAM timings to AUTO (9-9-9-24) rather than the 8-8-8-24 they are supposed to be based off what I ordered - I'm checking to see if I have two different sets but I know I ordered the same thing.

Anyway, I'm now at 4.5GHz without a hitch using the same timings except offset is at 0.05 - I'm hoping I can push it a bit further once I figure out my ram issues - I'm guessing having 16GB (4dimms) leads to more issues.
 
It seems my ram was the culprit - setting it to default timings of 8-8-8-24 was causing it to fail, setting it to AUTO (9-9-9-24) seems to have fixed it as I am @4.5GHz @ 25C idle.

I know I purchased 8-8-8-24 timings but I guess with 16GB there is more room for variable timings between DIMMS - sort of sucks - I'll have to check my ram voltage during the OC as running the system stock at those timings it's all good.
 
Awesome, glad you got that sorted out! Yeah from my experience in the past with 4 DIMMs overclocking is more difficult than with 2 DIMMs, but maybe it is different now. Might just be that DRAM voltage and/or VCCIO needs to be bumped up a bit. 25C idle is very nice, I'm around 38C idle on air.
 
Replaced the XFX 850W Black Edition PSU (had an unbearable squealing noise) with a Corsair AX850, and added a couple SilenX iXtrema Pro Quiet 80mm case fans behind the CPU, they've dropped idle CPU temps down to around 34C, GPUs idling about 10C cooler as well. Also ended up using the 4x right angle PCI-E 6-pin extensions I got, they do make the connections to the GTX 285s quite a bit easier. Don't have to bend the crap out of the nicely sleeved Corsair cables this way, but I'll gladly bend the crap out of some $5 extensions :D
 
Oh yeah, I noticed my RAM was running in single channel mode so I moved one DIMM up a slot. However the Big Shuriken is very much in the way so I had to go in diagonally and force it in. A bit scary but no harm done. So just a word of caution to other prospective buyers, make sure to install the RAM before the HSF, and make sure you put it in the color coded slots! I think bare RAM (no heatsinks) would be easy to install and remove with the HSF on no problem, but forget oversized RAM with tall heatsinks with the Big Shuriken.
 
Looking gorgeous. Are the fans as quiet as they look like? Would be a cool setup for a living-room computer...
 
Yes the built-in case fans are VERY quiet. You have to be within inches to hear them.
 
Some HSF/TIM experiences: I installed my revised (B3 stepping) board and of course had to reapply AS5 to my HSF and reinstall that. Apparently my Big Shuriken only likes being oriented a certain way. I'm talking 90+C vs 55C Prime95 load temps at stock clocks and voltages. The side with the fan cable coming out should be towards the IO shield, according to my experiences anyway. It could have been a fluke that the two times I installed it the opposite way, with the fan cable coming out towards the front, closer to where the CPU fan header was, that I got massively higher load temps. I was experimenting with my AS5 application, so that might have also been the problem. The best results I've found with AS5 is right out of their instructions, a single line across the cores. Rice-grain sized dot in the middle worked okay as well. The manual spread method was poor, but the worst results were when I tried the line across the cores but my line was slightly offset so when the HSF was put in place the TIM contact patch wasn't centered over the cores. My latest result using the line across the cores method so far seems to be very good, with ~32C idle and 55C load @ stock. Going to try overclocking again a bit later once the AS5 starts to cure. I'm thinking I should start from scratch since the board was replaced.

This latest time I was actually able to reinstall the HSF with the board in the case by removing the 2x 120mm fans on the right, and wearing exam gloves for poking around the HSF without really seeing what I was doing. It's still pretty difficult to reach and manipulate the HSF push-pins but it's possible to do. Definitely recommend the gloves to avoid getting cut up though.
 
Got a new toy in the mail on Friday...

What's in the box?
Tell me they didn't just send a bunch of wadded up paper!
OH goodie, another box
Get on with it!
Wait for it..
Shazam! This is a CoolIT Eco C240 all-in-one liquid cooler. Nice!
Everything was zip-tied down, nice and secure
Removed the included fans for now
The stock screws, as I later discovered were an 1/8th of an inch too short for my purposes.
Cleared out the case to make way
Installed on my P8P67-M Pro; just used the preapplied TIM
Talk about a tight fit
The backplate installed
Mobo installed, test fitting the radiator; due to the reservoirs on each side my second 80mm fan couldn't fit as well.
The hoses are pretty stiff; not worried about them snapping or kinking though.
Unfortunately the factory sealed fillport blocks my 5.25" drive bay; if I flipped the radiator upside down it also interfered with the PS/2 ports. Damn you PS/2!!
Going to attach the fans to the exterior, but the extruded mesh necessitates a gasket
An old mousepad will do nicely
Used tape and a plastic bag to make a rough template
A couple hours of tedious exacto-knifing later...
Almost done
Screwholes added
Fits perfectly
Fans installed; used 1/2" long #6-32 screws instead of 3/8". This configuration also allows me to install dust filters/fan guards with separate screws so they are easily removable.
Can just make out the radiator through the mesh; Carmageddon Splat Pack ftw
Routing the fan wires through the removed IO shield
Plugging everything in; pump and 80mm fan are plugged into 3-pin chassis fan headers; the two 120mm fans are plugged into the 4-pin CPU fan header (via the included Y-adapter).
Fans are in the push config (intakes)
GPU fits just fine! Forgot to plug in power switch though - doh!

Haven't had a chance to play around with it too much yet, but so far very impressed. Idle temps went from ~36C to ~30C, while load temps @ 1.28V in Prime95 blend went from mid 70s/low 80s with the Scythe Big Shuriken to mid 50s! They also drop back to idle temps almost instantly instead of gradually like with the Shuriken. Hoping for some nice overclocks with this thing.

More to come soon...
 
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It's actually pretty small by volume, height and depth, width is the only dimension that's a bit high but that suits my purposes fine. Thanks for your input though :p
 
Nice build.

I actually had my eye on the GD05/GD06 cases for a while. I'm currently using an Antec NSK2480 which is a similar layout for motherboard/PSU/fans, but much deeper without the benefit of fitting larger graphics cards. So, obtaining a GD05/GD06 was on the back burner pending boredom or a hot deal. Then a couple days ago Newegg gave a 15% off coupon on all Lian Li HTPC cases. I took a peek at what was available and discovered the Lian Li PC-C50 series. It is like a GD05 but a hair taller so the optical drive is in front of the PSU like with the Antec NSK2480. The short depth and being taller allows the optical drive to overlap the PSU. It also holds more HDDs.

Being that I'm a sucker for a hot deal, I snagged a PC-C50B.

that's a huge case

Not really. It is actually the SMALLEST in volume of any HTPC case that takes normal sized graphics cards and PSUs.
 
Nice build.

I actually had my eye on the GD05/GD06 cases for a while. I'm currently using an Antec NSK2480 which is a similar layout for motherboard/PSU/fans, but much deeper without the benefit of fitting larger graphics cards. So, obtaining a GD05/GD06 was on the back burner pending boredom or a hot deal. Then a couple days ago Newegg gave a 15% off coupon on all Lian Li HTPC cases. I took a peek at what was available and discovered the Lian Li PC-C50 series. It is like a GD05 but a hair taller so the optical drive is in front of the PSU like with the Antec NSK2480. The short depth and being taller allows the optical drive to overlap the PSU. It also holds more HDDs.

Being that I'm a sucker for a hot deal, I snagged a PC-C50B.



Not really. It is actually the SMALLEST in volume of any HTPC case that takes normal sized graphics cards and PSUs.

Thanks! Yeah I'm pretty sure I looked at Lian Li's offerings as well but they were much more expensive. How much did you end up getting yours for? I'd like to get my 5.25" bay back but I use it so infrequently it's not that high of a priority.

I can really appreciate the short depth of the GD05 because it fits nicely on my shelf with plenty of room for air to escape out the back and I can actually see the back of the case which helps plugging/unplugging cables immensely. My old Shuttle was actually about 2" longer and I had to angle it in order to see behind it for plugging stuff in.

For a steel case it's also quite light and the steel construction makes it very quiet.

One thing I would improve on all of these HTPC cases is to include a Windows Media Center IR receiver on the front panel. I have not seen many cases that feature this but it would make my setup so much cleaner to not have to use a USB one!
 
The Lian Li PC-C50B was $149.99 -15% coupon code + $9.99 shipping.
 
The Lian Li PC-C50B was $149.99 -15% coupon code + $9.99 shipping.

Not too shabby, that's still a bit more than the $90 FS I paid for the GD05 though. Does look nice though!

I have settled on 4.8GHz with my C240. It allows me to run much higher voltages than I could with my Scythe Big Shuriken, which is good because either my CPU or my motherboard is a poor overclocker and requires higher than average voltage for stability.

Prime95 load temps are 70-75C at 1.48V. That's with 2x GTX 285s installed, top cover on, dust filters installed on the 2x120mm fans, etc. Very impressed with this thing and definitely looking forward to seeing what it can do when I upgrade next (possibly as soon as Z68). I could probably be running well north of 5GHz at that voltage if the mobo/CPU were up to it but unfortunately one of them (leaning towards the mobo since my old B2 was a much better overclocker) is a dud. Still, we're talking 4.8GHz! That's pretty badass. Nice step up from my Q9550 @ 2.83GHz anyways :p

Here's what it looks like all buttoned up.



 
Hey nice build man, I tried sending a PM to ya but it's not working, maybe my account hasn't been authorized yet. Basically I'm looking for an extra stock gd05 fan, case I bought used only came with 2, wondering if you had the third lying around since in your last post you only mentioned the 2 filtered 120 mm fans. If you do or are interested let me know. Thanks!
 
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