Second time this has come around.

annaconda said:
Can you guys please post some more pictures, i mean the actual size, and the look from front and back etc.

Thanx.
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Well, I'm pretty drunk righ tnow so I'm definitely not gonna take it out of the case for pics... but very long story short, it's aluminum case, exactly 2 5.25" bays high (cheap comUSA case has 4 bays, I used bottom two, top two still have the inserts in them to cover the empty spots), 4 main things coming out the back, 2 water lines, the big parallel-looking cable that goes to the "pci" card (doesn't actually use the pci slot, it just mounts in one... has no contacts for a PCI communication, so you could if you wanted tuck it into a corner somwhere with zip ties) and power cord. PCI "card" has two things on it, the thermal sensor (seems very inaccurate the way they tell you to mount it) and the shutdown switch so it shuts down with your computer. Thermal sensor seems worthless to me, but the thing won't function without it hooke dup, so think of the thermal sensor as a case-temp sensor an djust tie it off somewhere with a zip tie :p

80mm fan up front behind one of the punched hole-style grills, little 1.5" diameter blue LCD circle screen with resevoir temp and cpu temp listed (again, cpu temp seems inaccurate, whatever..)

I'll finish eating here and then ill take a pic of the front, since technically its the only part you see...
 
Well, its still down. Good thing this isn't my SMP box. Problem is, I am going ahead and adding the Thermaltake 120mm radiator and fan to the case. First off, it doesn't fit inside the case because of the stupid piece of metal at the top of it. I had to mount it on the exterior. Second, the holes don't match up right, so I am only using 2 of the 4 screws to have it mounted to the case. It feels real snug though so it should be fine. The big issue is the tubing. The sidewall thickness is perfect for the water block, but the connector on the Thermaltake will not fit over the tube nicely. It is too small of a hole for the tubing to fit through. I am going to Ace hardware tommrow with the tubing and hoping to get some more that will fit in the system. I sure hope this stuff isn't expensive.:(

So, I am back to the laptop. Only for tonight I hope. A side note though. I did have to clean off the CPU block with the AS5 remover kit stuff. I had adhesive from the plastic that was covering the block. I wanted to make sure all the glue was removed before mating it to the CPU.

I guess all I can test right now is the radiator fans. Getting some sleep so I can be up early for the Fry's ad and my Ace trip.
 
Connundrum1 said:
waltherone:

are you using the fully stock system or did you upgrade the tubes or anything?

I just bit, hopefully this will cool down my SFF microfly case with the D 805 folding on both cores. its running 60-65C so anything will help bring those temps down a little.
Click to expand...

Totally stock, as it coame out of the box. The tubes are indeed pretty stiff as the reviews say, btu not unmanageble by no means.
 
ICE_9 said:
Well, its still down. Good thing this isn't my SMP box. Problem is, I am going ahead and adding the Thermaltake 120mm radiator and fan to the case. First off, it doesn't fit inside the case because of the stupid piece of metal at the top of it. I had to mount it on the exterior. Second, the holes don't match up right, so I am only using 2 of the 4 screws to have it mounted to the case. It feels real snug though so it should be fine. The big issue is the tubing. The sidewall thickness is perfect for the water block, but the connector on the Thermaltake will not fit over the tube nicely. It is too small of a hole for the tubing to fit through. I am going to Ace hardware tommrow with the tubing and hoping to get some more that will fit in the system. I sure hope this stuff isn't expensive.:(

So, I am back to the laptop. Only for tonight I hope. A side note though. I did have to clean off the CPU block with the AS5 remover kit stuff. I had adhesive from the plastic that was covering the block. I wanted to make sure all the glue was removed before mating it to the CPU.

I guess all I can test right now is the radiator fans. Getting some sleep so I can be up early for the Fry's ad and my Ace trip.
Click to expand...

Yeha mine fits REALLY snug as well in the bays...
 
ICE_9 said:
I did have to clean off the CPU block with the AS5 remover kit stuff. I had adhesive from the plastic that was covering the block. I wanted to make sure all the glue was removed before mating it to the CPU.
Click to expand...

Is alcohol enough to clean this stuff off?
 
As a suggestion for those routing the hose and having troubles because of the stiffness:

Turn your oven on to the lowest setting and put the tubing in the oven. As long as you don't go all out, this will warm up the tubing and make it much more flexible. Just use common sense, and if you don't know what that is, just google it :p

Mine will be here in approx 8 hours so I am not sure how thick the tubing is. But warming up the tubing will make it much more flexible. If it's really stiff, I wouldn't worry about heating it up just to make it easier to bend into place.

And if you don't want to do that, plastic tubing at hardware stores (ie. home depot) is not expensive at all.

Also, I have read of many people using isopropyl alcohol with cotton balls (or whatever) to clean off heatsinks and such. I imagine with the CPU chip you have to be more careful. Maybe a Q tip would work with the alcohol?
 
In the past I've used 99% isopropyl with newspapers (they're lint free).
 
very tempting as its cheaper then any kind of super heat sink and fan...but i'm to scared to use water cooling...
 
can any of you guys who are talking about adding the thermaltake radiator and fan explain what you are talking about? do you mean just adding an additional radiator in the loop after the waterblock?
 
cefoskey said:
can any of you guys who are talking about adding the thermaltake radiator and fan explain what you are talking about? do you mean just adding an additional radiator in the loop after the waterblock?
Click to expand...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835106063

The radiator fan combo in this setup. Hoping that it will help keep the system cool at low fan speeds.

NOTE: Without modification to the case, this WILL NOT fit in a Centurion 5 tool less case!

IPA and a coffee filter is what I used for cleaning it off.
 
hanks for the headsup ICE9, i seriously hate the idea of tool-less cases. The little plastic shits just don't work as well as a good 4 screws holding a harddrive in. I was considering buying two of these to put one in my centurion 5 but i'm glad i didn't.
 
ICE_9 said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835106063

The radiator fan combo in this setup. Hoping that it will help keep the system cool at low fan speeds.

NOTE: Without modification to the case, this WILL NOT fit in a Centurion 5 tool less case!

IPA and a coffee filter is what I used for cleaning it off.
Click to expand...


I see. So, using the aquagate pump and resivoir will be sufficient with the addition of that radiator/fan.

does anyone sell the radiator as a stand alone part?
 
Scorpionjwp said:
It takes 1/4in size of tubing, there are 3 settings on the fan. Working with the tubing on the unit, it isn't stiff.

The lcd on the unit is finicky, if you don't have it just right the cooling system will shut off on you each and every time. And to cefoskey, thermaltake sells a radiator separate that can attach to the aquagate.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200&products_id=20917
Click to expand...

link doesn't work - relink us please!
 
Worked fine for me. Newegg had it on their site but it looks like they removed it. I have it all hooked up and have run leak checks. Everything looks ok. I had just set it on top of the case. I figure it will cause less trouble there. With the Thermaltake radiator and tubing I got from Ace hardware, it tool pretty much all the blue water they sent. The LCD isn't hard to work with. I would probably set the tank temp higher than the CPU temp. Their is no reason to stop pumping because its hotter than the CPU. Do fill the lines though before putting the white ends on the tubes. Those ends grip well in the line. Also, the plastic clamps they give you for those ends suck big time. I broke both of them. Using zip ties now until I feel the need for metal clamps.

The leak test works well if you use a power supply tester to power it on. Don't forget the CPU thermal monitor. Don't do this work on carpet. I did it on my plastic mat for the chair. Spills will happen. Any recomendation on how long the leak check should take?
 
Run your system overnite 24 hrs and recheck. This will show you expansion of tubing to connections.
 
Seems to work. Just got done sending in the rebate. I don't hear it 4 feet from me. From the side though I can hear the pump. It's actually quite calming.:rolleyes:
 
back in stock, ordered mine last night

**nevermind. it said it was in stock when I looked last night, but it's back out of stock now**
 
this seems like a great deal and all but........... I don't think I'd be willing to trust a $30 water cooling kit in my $2000+ computer system. :p

I can already see something going wrong then kicking myself in the ass for even pondering on the idea. :D
 
I wouldn't put this in my c2d rig fo sho. but a cheap Pentium D rig thats expendable will be fun to play around with
 
Why not? It's in my new c2d rig. Keeps the c2d running 21-24 idle, 28-33 on load. (Cel)

That's under stock voltages, but its ran flawless. My biggest gripe was getting it in the case. I purchased one of those cheap cooler master mystique's.. you would think cooler master and cooler master, it would fit inside, right? Not without some modification. :p I had to bend in the "bottom aluminum supports" for one of the drive bays in order to get this to slide in two drive bays. Wasn't really a biggy, took a max of 10 mins, and it's in there now and thus far has performed great.

I suppose I do have one more gripe about it, and that's the mass of wires associated. Since my case doesn't have a window, it's nothing I worry about greatly.. but it would've been nicer to have a little cleaner cabling solution.

..then again, $21 folks. twenty one freaking dollars. you can't even buy a decent air cooler for that, let alone all the parts you need for a wc loop.
 
core temp shows 27C on one core, 30C on the other. Quite the diff from bios and my MSI utility, but still relatively low.
 
has anyone tried mounting it on its side? will it work like that or does the pump inside need to be sitting right side up to work?
 
38C and 37C respectively. What's weird, is the instant I hit "stop", the cores dropped to 27C/30C. No steady progression downward, instantly.. is Core Temp accurate? I couldn't imagine the cores actually dropping 8-10C in <1s. lol.

My MSI DC Software reported the CPU temp at a max of 27C during the testing.
 
Denki said:
has anyone tried mounting it on its side? will it work like that or does the pump inside need to be sitting right side up to work?
Click to expand...

Needs to be upright. I checked that while turning it side to side to get air bubbles out while filling... can maintain a pretty good angle but once you get about 70 degrees or so to the horizon (nearing being totally on its side) you can hear the pump gurgling, then it beeps and shuts off.
 
There is a way to run this with out that temperature sensor, and AC power supply.
 
annaconda said:
There is a way to run this with out that temperature sensor, and AC power supply.
Click to expand...


Yes there is a crude way of not running it w/o the temp sensor. You can remove the temp sensor and lcd panel, then shall have no problems.

And I have this question for you annaconda, how do you propose running the aquagate w/o a powersupply? It must be connected via your computer powersupply to run.
 
I might get it wrong, i see you have to run a wire from this unit to the back of your powersupply right?

Can some one please post a picture of their unit. I want to understand how you power the pump?

Can you take out the pump from the unit?

And also question for the guy in this thread who mentioned $21 for this unit how? is he refereing to the $5 pricegraber rebate?
 
The AC line to the pump is a T-splice off the AC line into your power supply. I agree it is pretty ghetto....why not just run a line with its own male AC plug? Im thinking of modding mine to do so.

i can post a pic after work
 
annaconda said:
I might get it wrong, i see you have to run a wire from this unit to the back of your powersupply right?

Can some one please post a picture of their unit. I want to understand how you power the pump?

Can you take out the pump from the unit?
Click to expand...

Here is your questions answered, how is it powered:
aquagate.jpg


You cannot take the pump out:
aquagate2.jpg
 
The AC probably powers a standard switching 12V/6A or so power supply in there. If you like soldering, you could probably remove that (and its heat generation, though switching PSUs of that size are usually pretty cool) and feed it directly off a Molex 12V line. (Yellow Wire +12V/ Either Black Wire GND).

Think mine showed up at home today, will bring it back to school this weekend and install it.
 
I heard mixing copper with metal with creat corrision? This system has metal or steel what ever with copper block?

How are the temperatures you guys are getting, and please post some more nice pictures guys :D

Thanx dude for the picture how it gets its power.
 
just ordered one.. only problem is the silver face plate :( wont match my black lian li case, but if it runs as cool, or cooler, and quiter then my zalman, ill be happy
 
Renswic said:
just ordered one.. only problem is the silver face plate :( wont match my black lian li case, but if it runs as cool, or cooler, and quiter then my zalman, ill be happy
Click to expand...

Anyone could take the faceplate off, mask appropriately (if needed), and then use several coats of metallic black Testors model spraypaint. Done right, you could get a good match, it'd just take patience and time.
 
just installed mine and in an Ultra Microfly ATX case i was getting 65C avg temps on load with a crappy ASUS HSF. Now i'm running same load with 50C temps. it was easy to install except those damn tubes are sooooo stiff. i couldn't get the tension off them inside the small case so they're putting a lot of strain on the waterblock holder. i'll see if after 24 hours i need to tighten stuff up and see if i can rotate the tubes to lessen the strain on them as well. preliminary reports are i'm loving this thing.
 
I got new tubes, 10 feet worth for $.29 a foot. I feel it was well worth the upgrade cost.:)
 
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