Silence please!

V

Vezara

n00b
Joined
Apr 10, 2009
Messages
8
Friends,

I am a total beginner with WC and on these forums as well. I am doing a lot of animating and editing which makes my PC my workplace. Over the years I started being very frustrated with the sound of my fans, my PSU, my VGA cooler, my CPU cooler and so on, generally with the PC generated noise. I need to get as near silent as possible.

I am planning on water cooling my HD3870x2 with a Danger Den waterblock and my QX9650 with a ST Apogee GTZ waterblock. The CPU is not OCed and neither is the ATI card and I do not intend on OCing them.

I have a budget of around 500$ and I was planning on buying these WC components.

The quietest of these pumps. I need your advice on that:

- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...wer_12V_Water_Pump_501280.html?tl=g30c107s154

- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...Pump_-_237_GPH_DD-CPX_Pro.html?tl=g30c107s154

- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...38_Conversion_Kit_317_GPH.html?tl=g30c107s154

This radiator used passively. I need you advice on will this rad alone be sufficient enough. This really bugs me and will need your opinions. There are options of additional shrouds so that I can mount 4 fans but I would like to avoid that at all cost. Comments?

- http://www.primochill.com/primochill-he-core-4x120mm-dual-pass-silver.html

One thing bugs me while choosing the right reservoir. I am stuck between

- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...ator_w_Reservoir_MCR220-QP_Res.html?tl=g30c97

and

- http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1273

I have no experience with this too so I must ask - can I use this rad as my reservoir without buying the EK one, and again using it without fans. Will I be contributing to my passive cooling using a rad as a res and is it possible at all?

Cooling fluid

- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...uid_-_Ready_to_Use_500473.html?tl=g30c337s889

Tubing

- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...Kink_Tubing_-_Silver.html?tl=g30c99s171#blank

I already mentioned the

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7..._Universal_CPU_Waterblock.html?tl=g30c325s844

and the

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7..._w_RAM_Sinks_DD_-_3870_X2.html?tl=g30c309s789

which completes my full copper loop. I was aiming for that too to avoid corrosion. It was very hard finding a passive copper radiator. Also I will be buying one or two fanless PSU

http://www.antarespro.com/1619689-i...4842-+SILVERSTONE++SILVERSTONE++Nightjar.aspx

This would get me to the sound of the pump and the sound of a single case fan just for the airflow purposes.

So my 4 big questions are:

- Which one of the pumps is the quietest? I want a bit of power with silence. So at least 250GPH.
- Am I doing anything wrong?
- Can the PrimoChill quad radiator cool my components passively or do I need two?
- Can I use the ST radiator as a reservoir without the fans and by doing that contribute to my passive cooling loop?

- Any other way of approaching near silence?
- Am I risking anything?
- Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Vezara
 
First of all, don't shop at frozencpu for parts unless you absolutely have to. Their prices are very high for no real reason. I prefer sidewindercomputers.com, jab-tech.com, petrastechshop.com, and newegg.com (newegg has incredible prices on Swiftech equipment).

Here's what I'd recommend for you. For pump and reservoir, get this pump and this reservoir top. That pump is very nearly silent and that reservoir top not only improves the pump performance, but it simplifies the loop and guarantees that the pump will never run dry as long as the reservoir is filled.

I wouldn't run that radiator fanless. If you want it as quiet as possible, get 4 low speed Yate Loon fans and run them at 7v on a fan controller or something. They'll be almost entirely quiet and will perform MUCH better than a fanless radiator. You need some serious surface area to run purely passive and the tiny amount of noise that those 4 fans running at low speeds would create is worth the massive improvement in performance.

Don't buy that coolant. There's no reason to. You should use pure distilled water (available at any grocery store or supermarket) for about $1 per gallon. Compare that to $25 per liter, it's simply not worth it. Also, that coolant isn't nonconductive, if any leaks occur, dust or any contaminants inside your case will make it conductive in seconds. It's simply not worth it to buy those coolants.

All you need is some biocide to prevent growth of algae or bacteria. You can use PT-Nuke (a couple of drops is plenty) or a silver killcoil. Silver is a natural biocide and will prevent growth in the loop. All this is much cheaper and will perform better than any coolant you can buy from Innovatek or Feser. Anything you add to water will lessen its ability to absorb heat.

I'd also recommend at least 7/16" ID or 1/2" ID tubing, it performs a little better than 3/8".

Other than that, like I said before, I wouldn't go purely passive, I'd go with some very low speed fans undervolted that for all intents and purposes are silent. Purely passive will not perform well and won't allow much overhead if you ever want to add more components to the loop.

Also, you will need barbs and clamps, you haven't included them. Like I said before, I'd recommend 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing with 1/2" barbs and either herbie clamps or worm drive clamps.
 
I don't watercool, so don't consider me an expert or anything (not that I claim to be one), so I've never used any of the typical Liang D5 or DDC, or the Eheim pumps that are very popular.

However, my girlfriend is a huge fish enthusiast, and I've done other things with pumps (ponds, above-ground pools, etc). I've found that submerged pumps are often very, very quiet, and you're likely to not hear them.

However, I'm sure if submerged pumps were superior in anyway, they'd be popular among the liquid cooling crowd. I may be wrong, but it's worth a quick look into, or at least a view of a water-cooling vet.
 
Most submerged pumps aren't 12v, so they have to plug into the wall, not the computer's power supply. Also, there's the issue of submerging them in a case, which can be problematic, fitting that whole unit into a case.
 
I was using frozenCPU as a reference only, no intention on buying there, thanks anyway.

Thanks for the pump tip, dealmaster. Cause I have no experience I just went for the numbers and the ones I was looking at were like at least 250 GpH while the one you are recommending is only around 95 GpH. Does that matter? Is it enough? Still it seems very interesting as it is very quiet. I think I will be taking your advice if you confirm it can provide good flow and pressure. Is this one too loud?

The advice about the reservoir is great but I wanted to go for a 5.25" bay reservoir because I can actually see the flow. I have an antec P180 case and it is rather closed, has no windows. I guess that if it stands above the pump in a loop my pump can not run dry anyway, right? Thoughts?

I was aiming for a non-conductive fluid, but could as easily use destiled water with biocide. Is there any quality non-conductive fluid I can use that is tested not to fail in contact with particles in my case? It would be a disaster to kill some of my expensive components.

It is always a dilemma between 3/8" and 1/2" because my case is quite crowded, 1/2" tends to kink more. Also I think the pump you are telling me to go for is native 3/8", is that a problem? I have to ask, it is my first build. Anyway 1/2" tubing is fine with me. Please recommend the best quality 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing available.

Now for the tough part. I was afraid you were gonna say that about the necessity of fans on my rad, although I already know you are absolutely right. I think the best thing for me is to buy the fans, test my temps, and if necessary use them. Any users of PrimoChill HE-Core 4x120mm rad, any thoughts? What does dual pass mean? How do you undervolt a fan?

As for the bars and the clamps I did not mention them but still I do not know which exactly do I need. So please guys, give me some precise links for the quality 1/2" barbs, clamps, and converters maybe if my pump can not fit 1/2"ID tubing. Maybe I sound confused but hell, I am.

Oh and dealmaster, thanks. Other opinions are welcome. Thank you.

For the submerged pumps, not in this life :)
 
Instead of running 4 120mm fans with that radiator I would run a single 240mm fan, they are low speed and tend to be quieter.
Most 240mm fans run at less than 1000rpm, more like 600-800rpm.
 
Vezara said:
I was using frozenCPU as a reference only, no intention on buying there, thanks anyway.

Thanks for the pump tip, dealmaster. Cause I have no experience I just went for the numbers and the ones I was looking at were like at least 250 GpH while the one you are recommending is only around 95 GpH. Does that matter? Is it enough? Still it seems very interesting as it is very quiet. I think I will be taking your advice if you confirm it can provide good flow and pressure. Is this one too loud?

The one you linked to is ok but the MCP350 is a much better pump for those who are looking for silence. If you want a little more power and are willing to pay a little more the MCP355 is a good choice too. Also the aftermarket tops (like the one linked to) for the MCP350/MCP355 improve the efficiency of the pump and increase its output.

The advice about the reservoir is great but I wanted to go for a 5.25" bay reservoir because I can actually see the flow. I have an antec P180 case and it is rather closed, has no windows. I guess that if it stands above the pump in a loop my pump can not run dry anyway, right? Thoughts?

Watercooling isn't a plug it in and forget operation. Even people that say that they haven't had to added any more fluid or touched there system for year+ still check it every once in a while. That being said you still can get a top for the MCP35X and get the reservoir you want. Me I prefer the clean look of a T-line to a reservoir though.

Also once you start getting low on fluid your computer will probably start freezing and shutting down from over heating from the all the bubbles. Motherboards today are very good at shutting down if the CPU is overheating. The only thing I would worry about if that happened is were did that fluid go but if you take your time when you build your loop and you check on it every once in a while you should never have a leak. A small amount of fluid may evaporate over time but that is not a big deal.

I was aiming for a non-conductive fluid, but could as easily use destiled water with biocide. Is there any quality non-conductive fluid I can use that is tested not to fail in contact with particles in my case? It would be a disaster to kill some of my expensive components.

There are no non-conductive fluids that you can put in a loop and they will stay non-conductive. This is because the fluid picks up small pieces of metal over time which then makes it conductive. Save your money go with the old tried and true distilled water + additives.

And you wont have a disaster if you take your time and do it right.

It is always a dilemma between 3/8" and 1/2" because my case is quite crowded, 1/2" tends to kink more. Also I think the pump you are telling me to go for is native 3/8", is that a problem? I have to ask, it is my first build. Anyway 1/2" tubing is fine with me. Please recommend the best quality 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing available.


I have used 1/2" ID for sometime and I m going back to 3/8" ID because it is just easier to work with. Sure some will say: "Oh no your CPU is going to be 1.0 C hotter." So what it is not that big of a deal.

If you want to do a little more reading on the whole 3/8" vs. 1/2" ID tubing I would recommend reading this first post here.

As for the pump being 3/8" native that is true. However the nice thing about the after market tops are they convert it into a G1/4" thread. Which is what many of the barb manufactures in the PC watercooling industry use.

As for tubing. Now I'm using Tygon tubing but there have been plenty of times where I have just gone to the hardware store and got some.


Now for the tough part. I was afraid you were gonna say that about the necessity of fans on my rad, although I already know you are absolutely right. I think the best thing for me is to buy the fans, test my temps, and if necessary use them. Any users of PrimoChill HE-Core 4x120mm rad, any thoughts? What does dual pass mean? How do you undervolt a fan?

Let me make it simple you need fans period. Trying to get enough surface area to cool that stuff passively would be ridiculous. If you have the right type of radiator (some work better with low flow some need a much higher flow fan) and with enough radiator surface you can get away with some pretty quiet fans. And I second look into getting some Yate Loons.

Go here and read up on Dual Pass vs. Single Pass.

There are a few ways to under-volt. One way is to buy a rheostat or fan controller. The other way is to attach the 12 volt line to the positive side of the fan and the negative side the 5 volt line (12-5=7). However if you do try that trick make sure you know what you are doing. The other way to control the speed of the fans which is much more efficient and allows for much more control is using PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) but I digress.


As for the bars and the clamps I did not mention them but still I do not know which exactly do I need. So please guys, give me some precise links for the quality 1/2" barbs, clamps, and converters maybe if my pump can not fit 1/2"ID tubing. Maybe I sound confused but hell, I am.

As for barbs that is really up to you. Since almost all my parts had G1/4" fittings I used the standard barbs with o-rings since it made it easy to get on. Then went to the auto parts store and got some worm gear clamps. Later I went to 3/8" compression fittings which if you have the money is in my opinion is the way to go.

Oh and dealmaster, thanks. Other opinions are welcome. Thank you.

For the submerged pumps, not in this life :)
Click to expand...

-MK
 
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You absolutely cannot run a radiator fanless. But you over-estimate the volume of a 12v yate loon 1200rpm fan. At 5v, it's impossible to hear over 10" away from it. Even right up against the fan, it's quiet as a whisper. At 5v, it will also allow your radiator to be around 400% more efficient at dumping heat. At 7v, it's audible at around a foot from the fan, and increases heat dump another 20% or so. Get the yates.

The quietest pump, IMO, is the MCP655 with variable speed controller. If you set it to "3" it's inaudible over a breeze coming in an open window, in the dead of night (as that's the only other noise in my room right now, and it's successfully overpowering the 655 I've got leaktesting right now!) Don't bother with submerged pumps. Don't bother with un-standard pumps. This is the pump you want. It's also the most reliable, too.

For tubing, I suggest 7/16" masterkleer. It goes over 1/2" barbs if you stick the end in boiling water to soften it. When it cools, it locks on. You'd need to cut it loose to get it off. Used with worm clamps, you can not - and will not - ever get a leak at a tube junction.

And, to quell any final fears. 4 yate loons at around 6v, and the mcp655 set to 3, will be quieter than most PSU's... And on par with most 7200rpm hard drives.
 
With your help I have made most of my decisions and ma almost there. This is my WC plan to get as silent as I can.

- Swifttech MCP655 with speed control
- Swiftech Apogee GTZ CPU waterblock
- Danger Den HD3870 GPU waterblock
- A single 5.25" bay reservoir
- 3 Yate Loon fans with a cool fan controller
- PA 120.3 rad mounted externally - I gave up on the heater core design
- Would like to buy some black neoprene tubing 1/2" ID but I guess I cant find a proper link, so I would appreciate some help.
- Fanless PSU (maybe two if necessary)

Final questions (some of them funny):

- Barb and a fitting are a same thing?

- Some barbs being chrome or aluminum, does that present a corrosion risk in a copper loop?

- Are there copper barbs/fittings?

- My rad being the only external component, is there a way of using some QuickConnect (don't really know what these are) or other methods of connecting to a loop but still allowing me to easily disconnect the rad in case of a possible transport? If I use conventional fittings it could be tough, a two man job, or worse, draining the loop.

- Does the position/orientation of the rad matter?

- I intend on using one, maybe two fanless PSUs. That means higher case temps. My CPU and GPU being on a loop, what other components inside my case are at risk if I undervolt my case airflow. I was thinking of two undervolted fans, one for chilling the PSUs (which should be fine running by themselves) and one exhaust fan. So if there are some additional components at risk, which ones are they, and could I put them on my loop to cool them. I am sure that with these WC components I can afford one or two more blocks without temp risk.

- 1/2" ID neoprene tubing link, please?

- I do not yet understand serial or parallel loops so I should basically go:
res-pump-rad-blocks- right?

I doubt any more questions are possible. Thank you very much for all this so far. I have been researching for hours and days now and am pretty much dead. My best to all. Great Community!
 
One question why do you have an expensive QX9650 which is pretty much made for over clocking and you don't over clock? Sorry I couldn't help with your water cooling question(s) but I have never water cooled and never plan too.
 
You will save much more money going with the Swiftech MCR-320 as they are best suited with 1250-1350 rpm fans review here

You won't need copper barbs or neoprene tubing
All barbs are fittings but not all fittings are barbs like a T or Y line
You can carry the rad with you even on trips, just buy the Swiftech Rad Box v2
I prefer 7/16" ID tubing over 1/2" OD barbs

If you want better performance for the same price (waterblock) get the EK Supreme LT
If you want the best cpu waterblock get the Koolance 350
 
If I may, I suggest going with the XSPC RX360 Rad. It was designed with lowspeed fans in mind and performs on par with the PA120.3 at lowspeed settings (at high speed they're still pretty close), plus it's about $45 cheaper.

Also scratch the idea about the fanless PSU. A good PSU with a 140mm fan should be quiet enough, not silent, but you still have to worry about the noise from your harddrives and wind noise generated by the air through your rad fins. Fanless PSU means more heat inside the case which will lead to needing the fans to run faster (louder) to keep the temps down.

Also what case are you housing all this in?
 
Vezara said:
It is always a dilemma between 3/8" and 1/2" because my case is quite crowded, 1/2" tends to kink more. Also I think the pump you are telling me to go for is native 3/8", is that a problem? I have to ask, it is my first build. Anyway 1/2" tubing is fine with me. Please recommend the best quality 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing available.
Click to expand...

Personally, I'd recommend 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing. The Masterkleer stuff is cheap and great.
 
Vezara said:
With your help I have made most of my decisions and ma almost there. This is my WC plan to get as silent as I can.
- 3 Yate Loon fans with a cool fan controller
Click to expand...

Just something to mention, thought you might want to read this on your fan controller... It seems to have issues with providing the same voltage to all the fans, which could be a problem for you....just thought I would mention it. Otherwise it looks like a winner (I started considering it myself just a couple mins ago until I read that.)
 
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Get your Yate Loons from Petra's. http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/481030-jab-tech-s-fake-yates-truth.html I didn't do extensive testing, but I can verify that my Jab-Tech D12SL-12's had the smaller motors, while my Petra's D12SL-12's had the full-size version.

I'm not sure on the link's pricing details, but PTS has them for $4 if you buy at least 4. That's 8 for $32 (without shipping) compared to their quote of $53.48 shipped, and much closer to the JT quote of $34.99 shipped.
 
Great tips, despite some I am sticking with a PA 120.3, because it might happen that I will need it if some crossfireX setup happnes.

Have decided to change my fan controller choice to a Xilence FCP (kicks a$$), great tip EndersShadow, thanks. But still I will run three Yate Loons on one channel of this controller and I will need these. Are there splitters 1 female to 3 male, or do I need just a bunch of these, in which case my question is - Will the power be evenly spread to the fans despite the 2 or 3 y splitters?

I am still sticking with one or two fanless PSU, I just do not believe in a silent fanned PSU, nightjar 450W or two seem great and are dead silent. The big question is how hot can they get and can the undervolted yate loon dissipate the excess heat through the case airflow?? thoughts?

I was planning on using neoprene tubing just because cost does not matter when it comes to tubing. I heard it is the best and most expensive tubing. Is that right? If so can I see some links to it, or if not can I get a link to the best 1/2"ID or 7/16"ID tubing provided it fits 1/2" barbs. Tygon maybe?

Ohh and tonyluu, thanks, but do you really want to start a CPU waterblock debate, heeheheh, come on? How about a 2012 prediction debate? ;) Can anybody really say this one is the best for that buck - like Koolance 350?? If there is a analysis confirming that I am going for koolance in a blink of an eye.
 
Regarding the fan splitters, you can use them, but the cleanest way is to splice the fan cables together. That's what I did. Here's a little guide image I found on xtremesystems:

3FanWiring.jpg


You just trim the yellow RPM wires off the other fans, and I simply lined up the wires, cut the wires off 2 of the fans where they met with the other fan, stripped them, and spliced them together. I didn't solder them, but I probably should have. I wrapped them tightly in electrical tape then sleeved them and they've been absolutely perfect ever since. All the fans spin up when the computer turns on and they all seem to get the same amount of voltage. I can take pictures of the way mine look now if you want.

Regarding silent power supplies, you definitely should take a look at Corsair units. My HX620 is absolutely dead silent, provides a TON of power, and is tested at 50c so its reliability is off the charts. It is expensive, but with my ear directly next to it, I can barely hear the fan. It's absolutely silent more than 3" away from it.

For CPU blocks, the 350 is a very good performer, but incredibly restrictive. For excellent performance and low restriction, get the Heatkiller blocks. They are incredibly good and beat out the Swiftech GTZ and the Koolance 350 with less restriction. And they're pretty cheap.
 
I appreciate the PSU advice but my current setup can easily be run with one 450W fanless nightjar silverstone, I have a p180 Antec case so it is at the bottom, I just need to assist heat dissipation with one undervolted yate loon. If I ever need more power I will buy the same PSU and mount it outside the case easily. I don't care about the aesthetics, or money, silence is the key. Although this seems to be whisper quiet.

Somebody asked me before why don't I OC my qx9650, well... after this build I will most certainly try.

Question. This tubing for a 1/2" barb or this one?

Heatkiller block looks great but I like the Apogee GTZ versatility. It fits almost any socket.

The fan tip is a killer. Thanks dealmaster.. keep the pictures comming.

After this nice thread I might even go for SSDrives :) Soon friends, soon, this house will not be a freakin steel mill.
 
I like the look of 3/4" OD tubing, but the smaller one will fit if you stick the ends in boiling water and jam them over the barbs. They won't come off, so you'll have to cut them off.

The GTZ is indeed a great block, but is outclassed by the Heatkiller, I wish I had bought one of the Heatkiller blocks instead of my GTZ.

Lastly if you go with SSD drives, don't buy cheap ones. There was an article on Anandtech a while back about cheap SSD drives having very bad cache controllers and would bring the entire system to 30 second long standstills every couple of minutes. That and the cheap MLC drives have very limited read/write cycles and consume more power. Get SLC-based drives if you can, they're much faster and last a lot longer.
 
I have learned so much in last couple of days and got very close to making my purchase. These are my final questions that are important for my purchase so please bear with me, I have posted them earlier but somehow you missed them. If it is a better idea to start new threads instead of keepin this one runnin please advise me. Here are my final questions:

- My rad being the only external component, is there a way of using some QuickConnect (don't really know what these are) or other methods of connecting to a loop but still allowing me to easily disconnect the rad in case of a possible transport? If I use conventional fittings it could be tough, a two man job, or worse, draining the loop. If these connestions exist are they reliable, no leaks? Links please.

- Does the position/orientation of the rad matter? Which one is the best for PA 120.3?

- I intend on using one, maybe two fanless PSUs. That means higher case temps. My CPU and GPU being on a loop, what other components inside my case are at risk if I undervolt my case airflow. I was thinking of two undervolted fans, one for chilling the PSUs (which should be fine running by themselves) and one exhaust fan. So if there are some additional components at risk, which ones are they, and could I put them on my loop to cool them? I am sure that with these WC components I can afford one or two more blocks without temp risk.

- I do not yet understand serial or parallel loops so I should basically go:
res-pump-rad-blocks- right?

Thanks, al!
 
How do you plan to fit 2 power supplies in a P180? Forget the fanless PSUs and just get a good PSU with a quiet fan. Really, I can't hear my PSU at all.

Position/orientation doesn't matter much for the radiator, I assume it'll be hanging off the back of the case or mounted on the top, correct?

Maybe the north bridge as far as heating up in the case goes, what motherboard are you using? I wouldn't worry much about it though, unless you're seriously overclocking the NB (increasing voltage, FSB), it won't heat up much. RAM heat is a nonissue, don't even consider watercooling your RAM, it's a massive waste of money and restricts flow like crazy.

Don't run a parallel loop, run in series. The order you've suggested is fine, but keep in mind order doesn't matter beyond the res being directly before the pump. Within 5 minutes or so your loop will reach equilibrium so order won't matter much.
 
Vezara said:
I have learned so much in last couple of days and got very close to making my purchase. These are my final questions that are important for my purchase so please bear with me, I have posted them earlier but somehow you missed them. If it is a better idea to start new threads instead of keepin this one runnin please advise me. Here are my final questions:

- My rad being the only external component, is there a way of using some QuickConnect (don't really know what these are) or other methods of connecting to a loop but still allowing me to easily disconnect the rad in case of a possible transport? If I use conventional fittings it could be tough, a two man job, or worse, draining the loop. If these connestions exist are they reliable, no leaks? Links please.

Thanks, al!
Click to expand...

I would recomend Quick Disconnect Fittings. They are designed for folks that are constantly changing components (CPU, GPU blocks, or in your case disconnecting the radiator). I cant link to any as I am at work right now :D, but if no one else does will throw some links up when I get home.
 
Yep that is basically it. I have all the info I need to assemble one quiet PC. Thanks all.

I can fit both the PSU down in my Antec P180 if I take out the HDD compartment and place my HDDs in upper compartment, now that will be a tight fit due to the lentgh of my HD3870x2. After the installation of the fanless PSU I will place one intake Yate Loon to suck the air in through the psu and will probably make a cardboard air tunnel to send the hot air up where it fill be picked with a higher CFM exhaust fan completing my S curve. Both of the fans will be undervolted and basically silent. That is if I place one PSU if I place two I will have two intake Yate Loons, adding one more, so then I would have one intake Yate Loon per PSU. With the exceptional thermal build of the Silverstone NightJars these undervolted fans will do the job right and still be silent I hope. Then I would make an air tunnel for both of these fans and send the air up to one or two exhaust fans. I am tending towards a slightly negative case pressure. My belief is that two undervolted Yate Loons are more silent than any case fans while being effective enough due to NightJars quality build. To add to my point if I ever use two PSU neither one will ever peak in power consumption so neither one will ever overheat in which case even one fan could be enough. The downside is that this setup IS quite expensive. I believe you have guys have the superior experience when it comes to fanless PSU debates but I feel in the mood the defend my point. Except for the cost is my plan wrong and why? Thoughts?

Dealmaster after all the experience with PSUs I can not believe in a silent one, sorry. Call me crazy. I even went and listened to "silent PC reviews" recorded PSU fans and still am not satisfied even with the 22dB ones and they are silent. The one PSU I linked to was this one and reviewers said it was so inaudible that they were not able to record it. If I could find this PSU recorded and compare it to to an undervolted 5V fan recorded in the same conditions I will consider buying it.

My motherboard is GA-EX38-DS4 and due to the excess heat from the PSUs even without OCing the NB I might consider watercooling it. Or not? What is the best not so restrictive water block for me to use?

I have found the perfect Quick Disconnect fittings (here and here) for my situation. Thanks EndersShadow!
 
You may have used bad quality PSUs in the past, but consider that high efficiency PSUs are a relatively new thing. In the past they consumed so much power that they needed to have stronger fans to exhaust all that heat that was being generated. Nowadays, 80-plus is very common so there's not much heat that needs to be exhausted. Trust me, I'm very sensitive to noise any my Corsair HX620 is absolutely silent. I had it running on my desk not 2 feet from my head and I couldn't hear it. It's dead silent, I'm not even exaggerating.

As far as NB blocks go, get the MCW30, it's extremely low restriction and is compatible with just about every NB there is. I'm using it on my Maximus Formula.
 
Ah....Ha..! I knew if I lurked around this thread long enough I'd find something to chime in on :D

First off I gotta' say I love water cooling, not only for it's quietness. Quietness is only speculative to a individuals own hearing sensitivity. I love WC'ing for many reasons. First and formost is there ain't no way I'd ever strap another, IMO, a ugly as shite, 2 lb HS with a helicoptor fan to my mobo and CPU again. :(

This is only a recommendation for using quick disconnects. I have 2x stock Q6600 G0's 24/7 DCing with F@H GPU2 and WinSMP being cooled by 2x external WC'ing containers (cat litter buckets), MCP220 rads (2x YL HS's shrouded, pulling, under a fan controller), MCP350 w/XSPC top, MCP650 (I got from PTS on sale), a MCRE rez in each and 1/2" tubes all around (external, who cares about kinks :eek:) One boxen has a XSPC Delta V3 WB and a low TDP 8800GS with a MCW60-R WB. The other boxen has a "bowed" Apogee GT and a low TDP 9600GSO with a AcelS1 R2 AC'er (LS YL attached) After reading QD's were highly restrictive I use low restriction componets to alliviate some of the QD's restriction. I tried a suggestion from another forum to use compression fittings,but it resulted in too much fluid loss which required too much bleeding :(

Below is a link to the Koolance QD's I use :p The pic (kinda' small) is the 24/7 folding boxen with the XSPC Delta V3 WB and a low TDP 8800GS with a MCW60-R WB. I also need to update it, who needs stinkin' updates anyway (only kiddin' ;))

I realize these temps may not be accurate to the "nity grity" (because the temp sensors have problems reading a temp so far from TJ Max), but I feel the temps are pretty close. Probably 5c or 6c too cool. :confused:

EDIT: For those of use that have problems with small print the temps are 32c, 35c, 29c, 30c (GPU2'ing core #3 and WinSMP'ing, cores #0, #1, #2)

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=62_60

DCing for the CURE


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Now that's what I call a post jws2346. My brain is still burning after trying to decipher all those numbers and letters. But I think....... I got you. Wait..... Yeah I got U... But not so much.. Yeah.. You are speaking in tongue, WC tongue that is.. Yeah WC tongue, nice... You are like the Hybrid from BSG...

Anyway..

Are you saying that you had bleeding after using compression fittings? How? Is your tubing 1/8" thick? That is very important when using compression fittings, you can not go 7/16"ID 5/8"OD, or 1/2" if the OD is less than 3/4" it will bleed. Clarify that. I was also planning on using compression fittings. Are they worth it? Also confirm that Koolance's QuickDisconnects are a go, that they do not bleed. And yes you can be cryptic as hell if you want to :)

Dealmaster, nightjars have 82% efficiency, but I will consider your advice and look more into silent fanned PSUs. If anybody else has a problem with using fanless PSUs, please, be my guest and comment....
 
Vezara said:
Now that's what I call a post jws2346. My brain is still burning after trying to decipher all those numbers and letters. But I think....... I got you. Wait..... Yeah I got U... But not so much.. Yeah.. You are speaking in tongue, WC tongue that is.. Yeah WC tongue, nice... You are like the Hybrid from BSG...

Anyway..

Are you saying that you had bleeding after using compression fittings? How? Is your tubing 1/8" thick? That is very important when using compression fittings, you can not go 7/16"ID 5/8"OD, or 1/2" if the OD is less than 3/4" it will bleed. Clarify that. I was also planning on using compression fittings. Are they worth it? Also confirm that Koolance's QuickDisconnects are a go, that they do not bleed. And yes you can be cryptic as hell if you want to :)

Dealmaster, nightjars have 82% efficiency, but I will consider your advice and look more into silent fanned PSUs. If anybody else has a problem with using fanless PSUs, please, be my guest and comment....
Click to expand...


Oops sorry Vezara I do have a tendency to get carried away with abbreviations :( The only thing I know about bleeding is using a rez vs a "T" line :)

I hope you got the jist of my post. All I was trying to get across was quick disconnects are restrictive and I use them in a low restrictive water cooling loop with a high head pressure pump (like a Apogee GT water block, a MCP350 w/XSPC top, a MCW60-R vga water block and 1/2" inch tubes + barbs all around ;)

On the compression fittings thing, I think they're fantastic and have a lot of security and bling (they're also very expensive). They just weren't so good for an easy and quick way to disconnect an external rig. I used a bulkhead compression fitting (female) and a regular compression fitting (male) , but when I disconnected them there was no fluid shutoff like a quick disconnect. (although I think they are great for having in water cooling loops to isolate certain componets (like if you wanted to change pumps or water blocks) I'm very aware that you have to have the correct hose outside diameter (OD) with the correct inside diameter of the collar (ID). (in other words if yourr fittings are for ID 7/16" and OD 5/8" you want a 7/16 " OD nipple and a 5/8" ID collar) ;)
OD = outside diameter, ID = inside diameter YL = Yate Loon HS = high speed and ASPC has someting to do with animals :rolleyes:

As far as PSU's go, I don't really know "jack" about them :confused:. I use an old raggety Antec 400w that I had laying around in my closet to separately power my pumps, fans and bling lights (I have a switch on the lights :D)

I hope some of this jive helps you, if it don't I tried my best :)

DCing for the CURE


 
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