Solid capacitor. FAIL

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magnetik

magnetik

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at least it did with my old Evga NF44 939. Noticed it today. Since there are no electrolytes to leak, think I could just leave it? It's in a spare box and it's only used for the occasional lan. Right now I don't notice anything strange but the minute I do, I prob will take the time to swap it out. Anyone else ever had a solid cap fail?

P1010407.jpg
 
Saw some comments about Asus boards solid caps failure while looking into new boards, not at the link below but, fwiw in case you haven't seen this site (they have a forum) http://www.badcaps.net/ now I see you're a mod, I'm sure you know the site, but I hope more bad caps aren't going to be showing up, oh well...
 
that's for the info! I actually hadn't been to that site. I think I am gonna let it ride and when my friends tell me it's rebooting on them when we lan, I'l probably replace the caps myself. The cap in the pic was the worst one. There is another solid cap where I think I see seperation starting at the slices. So it shouldn't be all that difficult esp since I have a good adjustable iron.
 
Those aren't solid caps. They're just (sub) standard electrolytics in a can. I had a board that popped like 6 or 7 of them. I replaced them and the board is good as new.


EDIT: Those are SACON caps, I'd replace every one of those on the board if you have the option to do so, even if they're not popped / bulging yet. If you don't, you will have this problem again, and likely very soon after you fix it.
 
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ryan_975 said:
Those aren't solid caps. They're just (sub) standard electrolytics in a can. I had a board that popped like 6 or 7 of them. I replaced them and the board is good as new.


EDIT: Those are SACON caps, I'd replace every one of those on the board if you have the option to do so, even if they're not popped / bulging yet. If you don't, you will have this problem again, and likely very soon after you fix it.
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thought that since it wasn't leaking they were solid caps. my mistake if they aren't.

I don't mind swapping them out. Looks like an easy job. funny thing is I had to replace the caps on my netgear gige switches recently to them back to life.

If the mb did die, I would have a hardtime finding another one and I would have a useless fx55. but at the moment I am just being a lazy ass since it's a rarely used pc. :D

have any recomendations or sources on some better caps?
 
magnetik said:
thought that since it wasn't leaking they were solid caps. I don't mind swapping them out. Looks like an easy job. funny thing is I just had to replace the caps on my netgear gige switches recently to them back to life. If the mb did die, I would have a hardtime finding another one and I would have a useless fx55. but at the moment I am just being a lazy ass since it's a rarely used pc. :D

have any recomendations or sources on some better caps?
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digikey is where I got mine. I paid around 8 bucks shipped for 11 caps (10 of one spec was cheaper than the 6 I actually needed for the repair + 1 of another spec).

Also, they did leak, it's just all evaporated and left behind the crusty shit you see.
 
ryan_975 said:
digikey is where I got mine. I paid around 8 bucks shipped for 11 caps (10 of one spec was cheaper than the 6 I actually needed for the repair).

Also, they did leak, it's just all evaporated and left behind the crusty shit you see.
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thanks. I'll check them out. the stuff that popped out actually looks like some sort of weave. kinda weird looking. I tried to get it in the shot but my board was actually in my sugo1 and it was a tight fit.

So whats actually a solid cap?
 
magnetik said:
thanks. I'll check them out. the stuff that popped out actually looks like some sort of weave. kinda weird looking. I tried to get it in the shot but my board was actually in my sugo1 and it was a tight fit.

So whats actually a solid cap?
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a solid cap is one that uses a "solid" electrolyte rather than a liquid one. They're more tolerant to heat and are less likely to popped.
 
I made a cottage industry out of replacing 6.3v caps on motherboards. Believe it or not, the technique I used was extremely easy. All you need is a descent quality soldering iron. Basic soldering skills, and nerves of steel.
Grab the offending cap and put some pressure on it like you are pulling it out of the board. Don't go ape. Just pull on it so when you put the iron to one of the feed through it is soldering in the solder will melt and the lead will pop out. Now do the same with the other lead. The leads are maybe 1/8" long so it doesn't take much to remove the bad cap from the board. NOW, replace the cap with one of the same size, value, and BETTER rating if you want. Many cheap caps are rated to 85*c. A quality high frequency cap is rated to 105*c. I recommend www.digikey.com and looking at the Panasonic caps.
Match the ones you need and order the quantity you need.
To install the replacement, don't sweat the fact the feed throughs are fill of solder. Take the new cap and cut both leads to about 1/2" . Trim one about a 1/8" shorter. You will heat one feed through until the solder melts and the leg pops thought,and did switch to the other feed through and do the same. (MIND POLARITY!) Seat the cap and trim the extra length off the leads.
I have fixed at least a couple hundred motherboards with this technique. And there has only been a FEW that didn't work. I was able to fix on in about 20-30 minutes, and that was replacing 10 to 12 caps.
I have been using this technique for 10 years when the idea of actually repairing the motherboard was unheard of. (even though that was the ONLY way to fix a computer in the old days)
If you consider it would have been 50 or 60 bux a wack to replace the board (for a cheap board too) I saved the company a ton of $$$.
 
I should have called it.. Fake Solid Caps FAIL. heh. closing thread.
 
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