Sub Question... kind of complicated....

T

Tech_Pro

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Messages
324
Okay heres the deal. i just recently upgrade my subs in my car. and i have these two 10inch RE s that i'm not using so i figured why not use them for my PC? now how do i go upon doing so? i already have them in a box, i'm very new to home theater as well as home audio. if i think correctly i need a amplifier and basically run the audio cables to the amp and the speaker cables to the amp from subs, and then just power it up... yet what amp do i need? seeing as car amps are different.... yeah i'm a bit confused a lil' help please?
 
Car speakers arent much different from home speakers electrically.
Some speakers are 4 Ohm, in which case make sure that your amp can supply a load into 4 ohms.
Just plug them in if the above is ok, being careful not to exceed max watts.
 
okay i've done some more research is what i came up with...
These are my subs i got 2 of them in a box http://www.shipsound.com/product_info.php?products_id=103592
Seeing as they are 300w RMS
The only extra PSU i have that is greater then 400w is a Ultra ULT-600p
i found this video youtube sort of explaining it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdx4IS1WS-g


okay so basically i have the subs, the PSU and a somewhat guide. now i just need a car amp right? now my next question is what kind of amp would i need? i'm thinking about a basic 1000w amp but would that fry this PSU? i'm not really keen on electricity.
 
well, car subs are pretty ineffecient, and are usually just bult for spl, meaning fairly mono tone, lacking in range not to mention car subs are ment to work in a confied space,... trunk back of a suv/van ect. when you move them into a room they will not sound the same, and will probably be overly boomy (it will probably be a whiny boom, hit all the right note to make shit rattle and simply not sound any good at all) now then if you decide to run them any way, your going to have issues with finding an amp that is capable of powering them... most home amps top out at 120w... 40 to 50 w rms.... and car subs tend to range 400 to 1000w 250 to 800 rms so im going to assume these things are at least 500w rms, your looking at a monoblock amp that can do at least 800w to get somewhere close to the rms of the sub. and for that on a house line means going with a class d amp... IMHO they are sloppy and ill suited for sound reproduction for anything over 200w regardless of application. unless you have the money to spring for some custom mono blocks, useing car subs are pretty much out of the question..

:edit: wrote this while you where replying, ill will edit it when im a little more awake
 
Tech_Pro said:
okay i've done some more research is what i came up with...
These are my subs i got 2 of them in a box http://www.shipsound.com/product_info.php?products_id=103592
Seeing as they are 300w RMS
The only extra PSU i have that is greater then 400w is a Ultra ULT-600p
i found this video youtube sort of explaining it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdx4IS1WS-g


okay so basically i have the subs, the PSU and a somewhat guide. now i just need a car amp right? now my next question is what kind of amp would i need? i'm thinking about a basic 1000w amp but would that fry this PSU? i'm not really keen on electricity.
Click to expand...


yeah you will fry that psu in a heart beat.. PC psus are not made for powering these sorts of electronics, a car amp has no capactince regulation on it, meaning when a bass beat hits, it draws as much power as it can. PC power supplys are desgined to deliver a constant stream of power, to much varience will usually make them reset... even if you have a 1200w PSU, you still could not run a 1000w car amp off of it..
 
Dude, provide a proper link.
You posted this (without the spaces):
http: // http // www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdx4IS1WS-g
I did a direct copy paste to get the above and inserted the spaces so it wasnt modified.
I couldnt get to youtube at all, it stopped while trying to access www.http.com

Dont use a car amp with a PSU, thats an awful way of powering speakers.

2 of those speaker cones wired in series will give you 4 Ohms.
If you have a normal hifi amp that can supply a 4 ohm load, thats all you need.
If your amp needs 6 or 8 ohm speakers, you will need 3 or 4 speaker cones in series.
 
Double post.
Its getting really annoying now!!!
 
I'm currently running a 12" Kenwood car sub in a box with a Kenwood mono amp: KAC-8103D (discontinued; this is the new one). Of course, you'll want an amplifier that closely matches your subwoofer's specs.

The important thing here is the power supply; like the others have said, computer power supplies won't cut it. I'm running that monoblock amp as well as a 4-channel car amp off of a super-powered power supply made by Iota: the DLS55 (that's 55amps). I've had no trouble with it so far. If you don't need all that power, they also make 45amp versions, perhaps even smaller ones.
 
Recommendation? Sell the subs and the box and use the money to buy a proper setup. Not so much for sound reasons but simply for convenience. You're either going to have to go "inverter > car amp > speakers" (yuck) or "theater power amp > speakers". Neither of these are going to benefit you any savings in money or conveniece. If anything you're going to spend *more* money getting these things to work and sound decent.

Also as a correction above, these appear to be 2ohm DVC's. You're only options in wiring are .5ohm, 2ohm, and 8ohm loads unless you plan on rewiring the speakers seperately to run off of two seperate amplifiers. You would need to keep this in mind when selecting an amp to run these.
 
Dude, don't listen to these guys. Don't sell your subs. Do a google for WinISD, dowload the beta and play with it a bit. It's pretty intuitive. Next google Woofer's Etc and get the full TS parameters for your subs. design a ported box using the specs that ISD will give you as the optimal cabinet for your subs. Next get a 120V home theater sub amp. You can find them at Parts Etc. and build it into your enclosure. Wire the voice coils in series AND the subs in series for an 8 Ohm load and connect your subs to the amp. You've just built your very own HT sub.

Remember that running two subs will increase the SPL of one sub by 3db. That'll more than make up for a low(ish) efficiency. Enjoy your tinkering.
 
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