The epic search for a rust-proof case

Hamish Campbell said:
You live next to a beach in Hawaii and you spend your time on "epic WoW sessions" ?!
Click to expand...

When there's no surf or wind, yeah :)

Otherwise no matter what you do if you use air cooling you are just accelerating the air right through it making things worse.
Click to expand...

Well, I have yet to hear a better argument for watercooling. Very interesting. However, I would imagine that the radiator would still be a problem. I have never watercooled, but isn't there a big metal thing that sticks out of your case has to be exposed to the air? And isn't there usually a fan on it?

That said, replacing a radiator is probably cheaper than replacing a graphics card. And I can try spraying things on the radiator to try to rust-proof it. I wonder if the spray-on zinc layer would affect the cooling performance.

This might sound ridiculous but seeing suggestions for a dehumidifier and you replying there wouldn't be any possibility that it would work, I came up with this "doo-hickey" out of the blue.
Click to expand...

Wow! I just signed up for [H]ard|Forum after lurking for awhile, and I have to say I've gotten better responses from my first post that I have at all on any other online forum. You guys rock!

This is a very cool idea. I wish I had a garage and a set of tools to make things like this. I could probably create a model in some CAD program and send it to a plexi shop to have it fabricated. Also, I know the peltier blocks would collect a LOT of moisture, because whenever I take a can of soda out of the fridge it completely soaks whatever surface I put it on by pulling the moisture out of the air.
 
marvel said:
When there's no surf or wind, yeah :)
Well, I have yet to hear a better argument for watercooling. Very interesting. However, I would imagine that the radiator would still be a problem. I have never watercooled, but isn't there a big metal thing that sticks out of your case has to be exposed to the air? And isn't there usually a fan on it?

That said, replacing a radiator is probably cheaper than replacing a graphics card. And I can try spraying things on the radiator to try to rust-proof it. I wonder if the spray-on zinc layer would affect the cooling performance.

Wow! I just signed up for [H]ard|Forum after lurking for awhile, and I have to say I've gotten better responses from my first post that I have at all on any other online forum. You guys rock!

This is a very cool idea. I wish I had a garage and a set of tools to make things like this. I could probably create a model in some CAD program and send it to a plexi shop to have it fabricated. Also, I know the peltier blocks would collect a LOT of moisture, because whenever I take a can of soda out of the fridge it completely soaks whatever surface I put it on by pulling the moisture out of the air.
Click to expand...

Most radiators are made from brass. You could try water cooling everything in the case, and just seal it off from the atmosphere, and load up the inside of the case with a desiccant.

There's probably little you can do about the humidity though.
 
You might be able to save your heatsinks by having them nickel plated. In fact, a lot of copper heatsink come with nickle plating to prevent the copper from oxidizing.

Having every metal component either anodized or made of stainless steel would help as well.

Have you tried any spray-on protective coatings? It'll be a little toxic to apply, but coating everything with epoxy spray (including the PCBs of your components) would protect them from the elements. Moisture shouldn't be able to penetrate an epoxy shell :D
 
Do you have any pics of the backsides of your failed video cards? Do they rust where the caps come into contact with the solder? I am not sure what metal the cap legs are, but that could be a problem with advanced humidity corrosion.....

Nickel plating is a great idea, and IIRC is what they use to make marine use shotguns. Cheaper than almost any other plating and very hard to scratch compared to cheap chrome. Also, I buy stainless fasteners in bulk from Sterling Supply, but you could also use McMaster Carr. Aluminum rivets are available everywhere, so I think if you can find a plating shop that can send out parts, you could possibly solve a few of your other problems with a sandblasting and nickel plating. Plus you would have a very unique case and any other metal bits, like HSF and northbridge coolers. Just ask if they care they are dipping heatpipes. I figure if other manufacturers already do it, they will too..... ;)
 
Oil seems to be your only option.

Even with the clear case your parts would still rust.

Even if you made a box around your PC and put a dehumidifier in the box moister would get in eventually.
 
Wow, where do you live in Hawaii? I've lived in Oahu for about 8 years now and never seen that level of corrosion!

I DO know if you do not clean the fuzz out of your computer, it WILL corrode fan grills and heatsinks.

I live 150 yards from Waikiki beach and all of my machines are not even -close- to that. I do see computers that are 8 year + old that get crusty like that!
 
brasherman said:
Do you have any pics of the backsides of your failed video cards?
Click to expand...

Sure! Let me dig one out of my parts bin. Here's a nice 7800GTX. I used to run this bad boy in SLI. Hmm, the fan is looking a bit rusty:

20100422-pfp212wtq1hkm3firi52s7s72a.jpg


And those DVI connectors are pretty gnarly too:

20100422-kxkk399hjhebx8rq5u8qux3c9n.jpg


Yeah, there's quite a bit of corrosion on the back:

20100422-x8ejwgxknh7wh9bhwy4wym4nke.jpg


Let's take the heatsink off:
20100422-eh4mxaeynk6utug5x1tqh28bq.jpg


Yeah. That's pretty bad. So what was underneath the heatsi.... OH MY DEAR GOD:

20100422-r3j3ifs1aqu2acc3154e48tq48.jpg


20100422-84ti6hxheck6srum5xkysy6ei9.jpg


Wow, where do you live in Hawaii?
Click to expand...

Lanikai, in Kailua town, on the Windward side. The place is exposed to strong trade winds coming right off the ocean 24/7.
 
I'll reiterate what some others said. Its Cathodic exposure that you have to eliminate.

Zinc is a sacrificial metal that would help this scenario too. Zinc gives itself up very rapidly in relation to other metals. Anything that is chrome plated is going to be steel underneath. Zinc will sacrifice itself before the objects its interconnected to do (ie steel) but thats again a temporary solution if none other exists.

Anything that is copper and not nickel plated will result in the same thing. Even nickel itself will give in to these harsh conditions over time, but nowhere near as fast as copper itself will.

Anodized aluminum will last for a reasonable amount of time (probably in those conditions I'd say around 36-48 months). But it will also start to develop pinhole voids that will allow for corrosion of the surface to take place. Micro-corrossion for the most part. It won't be wide spread, but it will start a chain effect in the surface of the material. By the time this comes overly noticed, you'll probably be buying new components based on age, not the results of these problems.

Basically what someone said about a Lian-Li, drilling out the rivets, and seperating out the steel parts (painting them would help on the cheap, there are I believe a few small steel parts in most of them). Anything you can do to treat the steel would be helpful. Oil, while inexpensive also has some downsides too, so just keep that in mind.

Plastics, nylons will survive forever in those conditions for the most part. But you have the difficult task of stopping the corrission on your components then also. I would suggest a silicone based non conductive spray coating such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/Sili-Lube-Silicone-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B003AOHI1W

Its not going to be the end all be all solution. But you're going to have to coat your cards and motherboard in it, so it has to be nonconductive in itself. Your best bet is to cover PCI and DIMM sockets, ATA, etc etc and just spray the board on the face and the back. It might elevate temperatures on the surface of the board slightly, but the corrossion effect of interconnects will have more long term damage and short term destruction potential than doing this will.

If you want to spray those slots there is a conductive spray coating out there also that would allow you to semi-protect the interconnections without sacrificing electrical conductivity.

I was in the metals finishing field for some 15+ years if ya wanna take my experiences to heart, I've seen it all. I've seen guys whose JOB it is to understand these relationships have absolutely no idea that these types of things exist, so don't feel like you should have known this stuff ahead of time.

Sea water is harsh as hell, and military standards only tend to cover so many hours in a salt spray chamber, and even then its very minute levels (5-10%). You want to search for products that have a high CASS test result (copper accelerated salt spray) which is a very harsh form of what most products endure, and is more in relation to what you'll experience in your environment
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Watercooling with only the rads outside a tupperware case will work just fine. Create ports for the power, video, USB connections. Get some waterproof switches for power buttons. Problem will be the DVD drive, but with a little ingenuity you can create a access door that seals when closed.

Use the silicone spray from the above post for the radiator. If you have such a strong breeze you could just stick the rad in the window and let mother nature be your fan.
 
If ever there was a practical reason for submersion cooling this is it. Doooo eeeeet. :D
 
Last edited:
pissboy said:
Most radiators are made from brass. You could try water cooling everything in the case, and just seal it off from the atmosphere, and load up the inside of the case with a desiccant.

There's probably little you can do about the humidity though.
Click to expand...

Not computer radiators. Most are made from copper, a few old Koolance-brand radiators are made from aluminum, but if you use those, you have to instead deal with your waterblocks corroding internally over time, which is an even worse problem than the OP already has since it can lead to the system leaking and destroying your parts.

I still think a Lian-Li with replacement anodized aluminum rivets/screws/etc. would be the best option. To my knowledge, plexi cases don't conduct heat nearly as well as aluminum or even steel ones do, so may need to increase airflow to compensate for the extra heat - which would increase corrosion. Aren't Lian-Li cases anodized - and doesn't that further protect them from corrosion?

Worst-case scenario, build a custom aluminum case from 5086 alloy aluminum. 5086 is an alloy used by the boat industry that basically doesn't corrode.
 
Last edited:
you could always go fanless everything.

zalman makes a zero fan case (no cpu vid psu fan) everything is case cooled. cost like $1k but also quiet
 
coconutboy said:
lol at this thread. I grew up in Hawaii as a boy during the 70s before we moved to the mainland, and it's almost impossible to get people living stateside to understand what living on an island in the middle of the Pacific does to EVERYTHING you own. Even your clothes deteriorate faster due to the conditions.
Click to expand...

Hawaii is a state.

I just moved away from Hawaii after living there a few years. I lived a few blocks from the ocean, and I agree, yes, it will deteriorate things in a strange manner. cardboard boxes, etc. But so my surprise, no damage to my two PC's, laptop, or my Lecroy Waverunner O-Scope (thank god).

I would seriously check out your drywall, etc, or something else. the pic you posted is really odd and extreme. does your computer sit near a window and get splatter from rain?

also, that lovely red dirt/dust sticks to everything as well, and that is essentially rusty-dust.

I even have a copper zalman heatsink that is still shiny.
 
Do you leave your computer on 24/7 or do you turn it off? You might find leaving it on will allow it to last longer since it won't cool down and have water condense on it. You might even want to make sure the fans are all speed controlled to low speeds to try and make sure there are no cold spots. Not really sure how much this will help, salt air is just plain evil to electronics.
 
Hamish Campbell said:
You live next to a beach in Hawaii and you spend your time on "epic WoW sessions" ?!
Click to expand...

Yeah I mean wtf. How dare he have other hobbies instead of being on the beach all the time.

To be honest you're gonna have a pretty hard time stopping any rust unless you fix your house or pick one room to dehumidify and keep semi sealed from all the salty air.
 
Chinese dry wall ;)

"The problematic drywall—also known as plasterboard or gypsum board—was imported from China from about 2004 until 2007, to fill a shortage during the housing boom. But a growing number of homeowners—there have been more than 3,000 reports in 37 states and other areas—complain that it generates sulfurous odors and corrosion that tarnishes metals and causes appliances such as air-conditioners to fail. Some owners complain about ailments ranging from headaches to itchy skin. "

It shouldn't even be that moist in your house. Poor insulation.
 
Conker said:
Chinese dry wall ;)

"The problematic drywall—also known as plasterboard or gypsum board—was imported from China from about 2004 until 2007, to fill a shortage during the housing boom. But a growing number of homeowners—there have been more than 3,000 reports in 37 states and other areas—complain that it generates sulfurous odors and corrosion that tarnishes metals and causes appliances such as air-conditioners to fail. Some owners complain about ailments ranging from headaches to itchy skin. "

It shouldn't even be that moist in your house. Poor insulation.
Click to expand...

I dont know about that, if he lives by the beach and leaves his windows open 24/7 365 its going to be moist in his home.

He has also said his home is considerably older than that and other people in his community have the same issues.

I think its still worth looking into but to say his house shouldnt be that moist isnt right regardless of drywall. If you leave your windows open 24/7 in a very humid area it happens.
 
We have a place in Waialua, HI and we are within 75 - 100 yards from the ocean. I remember lots of metal items (picture frames, computer cases, window fittings, etc) rusting while I was younger. No A/C and windows facing the ocean will do that.

As for the case have you thought of shooting a layer of paint of some kind on the inside, even a clear coat?
 
Just to provide an update: the final solution may end up being moving to a new place. Not because of the rust but due to my work situation. I'll still be on Oahu but probably not as close to the ocean.
 
Buy keg cooler refrigerator, place case inside, plug in and turn on refrigerator.

Run cables out through area that tap is supposed to go through.

Refrigeration will keep your moisture level down to practically zero, which should stop your rusting (except, of course, for the refrigerator rusting!!). :eek:
 
Nivram said:
Buy keg cooler refrigerator, place case inside, plug in and turn on refrigerator.

Run cables out through area that tap is supposed to go through.

Refrigeration will keep your moisture level down to practically zero, which should stop your rusting (except, of course, for the refrigerator rusting!!). :eek:
Click to expand...

people always suggest the fridge idea, but a fridge cannot keep up with the heat generated by a modern enthusiast computer.
 
ok I have been kinda thinking about this & the easiest solution just came to me.. a Simple Thin layer of clear gloss spray paint. Should be non conductive & applied think should prohibit the rust & have minimal impact on cooling. I Would jsut spray the back of the motherboard & then install it. & then install everything else. Leave CPU coolers out of it, but just simply assume there going to turn green & stick to copper since its got a known reaction & after the greening it should have minimal impact on cooler performance (GPU & CPU). This wont allow anything super high end, but it should get the job done & keep you in business for much much longer.

Edit: Check this out for size http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=94275
 
heres my question regarding all the painting/rustoleum suggestions. If his components have been exposed wouldnt it already be too late for these options? I cant see paint or rustoleum doing much when the rust and corrosion has already begun.
 
Yeah, after seeing those horrific pictures I think the only way to prevent it is to completely climate control your home. You said your home was on the windward side of the island? Where you are now all of the humidity (gaseous water) picked up by those winds is coming right through your windows. Not only that, but water in an (aqueous) aerosol form is likely coming in and depositing salt all over everything.

Can you move to the opposite side of the island and put some highlands between you and the wind? Highlands push warm humid air higher, cooling it, causing precipitation. On leeward sides of mountains the air warms back up and has much lower relative humidity. Orographic effect. <3 geology.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top