The highly rated HP Pavilion Slimline PC thread

360Spider, do you have the latest Realtek drivers? I had some issues with headphones not outputting video and music sound but when I updated the drivers, the issues went away.
 
I know exactly what you are talking about. Try re-installing quicktime and also disable your antivirus just to check. Good places to start troubleshooting.
 
360Spider

This is all good advice..

However scents I have a s3220n I know exactly what your talking about..

My audio had the crackled sound to it as well time to time..

Found out it was the settings on my RealTek HD Audio Manager..
I would first check these setting and put them all to default before playing with any thing else..

I'll bet you that its an equalizer issue (Check all EQ's in Media players as well)..
Or
Even if your running 5.1 then it could be a time split issue on the speakers..

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\​

the.ronin

Thanx for the replies on the 8400..
However I was asking about the TV Tuner as I had seen that in one of your pix you had a Vista View HD Receiver in there..
Just wanted to know if the other slot is still open enough to install a TV Tuner card (sorry I guess I should liberate more on my questions)
 
civicscootin said:
the.ronin

Thanx for the replies on the 8400..
However I was asking about the TV Tuner as I had seen that in one of your pix you had a Vista View HD Receiver in there..
Just wanted to know if the other slot is still open enough to install a TV Tuner card (sorry I guess I should liberate more on my questions)
Click to expand...

Ah ... yes I did used to have a TV Tuner. I found that the Slimline ran too hot with it though and decided to get rid of it. However there is definitely room in there for the 8400 and a tuner. Just bear in mind the fan is going to be right against against you plop into the PCI slot. I've just decided to keep that slot free and also leave the plating off for more air access. More dust access too I guess but you can't have everything. :D
 
First off, thanks for the help guys! Yeah, the first thing I did was reinstall my drivers with the latest ones. It worked for a little at first, but then the issue came back. I had to take a break from fiddling with the issues though to work on some video editing for a video some buddies and I are making. (Premiere Pro CS3 editing.) There was no crackling or anything while doing that as far as the audio goes. I kept the side of my comp off with a fan pointed at it just in case (which is still that way cause I'm too lazy to put it back on). I did reinstall iTunes then afterwords and so far there isn't any crackling. I'm going to keep my music going though just so I can fully test it out. What I don't understand, I haven't touched my Realtek HD Audio control panel in months. Why now, if that is the problem, would there be crackling issues?

I'm confused. I just hope reinstalling iTunes fixed it as it seems to be good so far.
 
the.ronin:
Thanx for the replies on the 8400GS fitting matter..

Think Ill get the 8400 and see how things goes.. If all else I guess I can always move the TV Tuner with an exstender slot (seen some on the net cant remember where thou)..

360Spider:
Well it sounds like it has nothing to do with the way your RealTek HD is set up then..
Hmmm...

Plus I don't see the need to push air onto your computer as the crackling wouldn't be due to a heating issue..
(At least Ive never heard of such a thing happen before due to heat issues)

On my side it was due to the time delay with the surround sound (Room Correction Tap)..
Thats where the crackling came on for myself..
Plus it also had crackling effects when I had the "Sound Effects Tab" with in the RealTek Manger set to anything but default.. That was when I was running just a mini plug to 2 speakers..

May want to also check your Codec's settings to see if there effecting the audio..

In the end thou Im 8/10 percent sure that its a software issue that your facing there 360..
Or it could be just a wiring issue with your speakers (to or from your PC)

Plus just for referents..
75F is still very cool for our computer bud..
When it hits around 140F is when you have an issue at hand..
Dont be suprised if you see that thing hovering around 110-120F as that is pretty much the norm on the s3220n when being pushed..
 
Hey,

In my past exp with a full size desktop. I've had a creative sound card that half survived a power failure at a network party. After that on occassion the sound would crackle. It would come and go. -- might be related to a power issue of the past??? I hope not....but in my instance of that sound card it was permanently damaged.

If that's the case you can buy USB based soundcards --- something like the audigy extigy..
 
Well I got the case back together and everything seems fine. I think reinstalling iTunes did the trick. Perhaps that and the combination of the driver reinstall fixed whatever the heck was going on. It's really leaving me puzzled though. But oh well, as long as it doesn't do it again I'm happy. And my speakers are brand new Logitech X-240 2.1 speakers. I have never had any problems with Logitech and I doubt the speakers are the issue. Must be some kind of Friday the 13th stuff. LOL
 
Hi, Guys, First post.
We are considering buying a s3750t of the following configuration:
# • Windows Vista Home Premium (64-bit)
# • Intel(R) Core(TM) 2 Duo processor E7500 [2.93GHz]
# • 4GB DDR2-800MHz SDRAM [2x2048]
# • 640GB 7200 rpm SATA 3Gb/s hard drive
# • 512MB NVIDIA GeForce 9500GS & TV tuner [DVI, HDMI, VGA adapter]
# • LightScribe 16X max. DVD+/-R/RW SuperMulti drive

We live in a motorhome using our solar to charge 6 6volt batteries. Therefore, we are very conscious of power consumption while still wanting a very capable computer. This computer, the above configured Slimline, seems that it might be the right one to replace our aging laptops. But, we need to know actual power consumption. Is there anyone who has a similarly configured system that could measure actual power?

Example: We use a Kill-A-Watt meter, plug it into power source, then plug our computer right into the Kill-A-Watt. Our laptop uses approximately 100 watts when using light duty applications, 122 watts when using our Real Flight r/c flight simulator.

The HP website says the s3750t is Energy Star rated. Does anyone know what this might mean to us in actual operation?

Thanks so much for any info. Boni
 
Civicscootin,

Woah, really? Yeah I guess it is! :p

BoniPie,

That computer will probably push about 130-140Watts at max load. This was actually part of my graduation project for installing my 9600GT.

At max, your processor,the E7500, will use 65 watts of power.
RAM will usually use around 5 watts at all times.
Your motherboard and chipset will use around around 30 watts.
Your HDD will also use around 20 watts max depending on the load its under.

Those specs alone, your looking at ~120 watts maximum.

Now, the 9500GS, I think uses around 20 watts since that's what the 8600GT used and it's roughly the same card. (I can't seem to find that thread with all the power consumption levels that was posted awhile back so if somebody has that and wants to confirm the 9500GS power consumption that would be great.)

Also, the TV tuner will suck up some power as well. (probably about 5-10 watts) If your not using it, it's probably best to remove it.

Without the TV tuner your looking at 140 watts as your maximum draw. One thing to consider here, the Intel Slimlines ship with 180W PSUs. The AMD Slimlines ship with 160W PSUs. If your looking to save some power, buy an AMD processor.

(Of course, that doesn't make any sense, if my AMD is a 65 watt and the E7500 is a 65W, why to the AMDs ship with 160 watt PSUs and Intels with 180? I hadn't realized that before since I have a AMD.)

But anyways, your looking a decent draw. You need to consider the max power draw only because CPU power consumption will fluctuate only as much as the HDD can keep up. Unless you underclock your CPU, preventing it from using its max draw isn't going to be possible when you load up applications and whatnot. I'm not even sure how one goes about underclocking.

That's as much as I can tell you. Good luck!
 
360 Spider,
Thanks for your input. That's similar to other input we have received. Neither of the 512 graphics cards that are available come without a TV tuner. Are they removable-the tv tuner that is? We wouldn't use it.

I don't know about 'under'clocking. Hubby and I were always in elec engineering and computers. But, now we're retired. The more we're retired, the more we just want to buy something and use it. Specs say the power supply is now 230 w. We really are not intense users, mostly surfing and our r/c flight simulator. But, we want fast surfing and power there when we need it. Sort of like a fast car. Thanks, Boni
 
oiames said:
Yesterday I powered up my Slimline s3020n and got a completely blank screen. Unit had powered down to install a VISTA (i believe) automatic update. It was working fine the day before and I hadn't moved, opened or added a thing. No boot, no post, can't get to bios, the HD doesn't spin, just the blue power on light and the DVD drive opens and spins.

Won't run recovery disks. Pulled the battery to reset cmos and no change. Pulled the RAM stick by stick, disconnected the HD, DVD, nothing. This was a refurb from COMP USA a year and half ago, so I don't expect any support from HP.

Do I just buy a new one? Having spent only $300 for it, doesn't seem worth putting a whole lot more effort into repair unless I've missed something obvious. I really liked this little unit, but it's the first system I've ever had that just died.
Click to expand...

Called HP tech and the motherboard is dead and they have no replacements available, at least to me. I'm off warrenty. Got another AMD slimline, s3600z, off ubid. What to do with the parts from the old one? Is there another motherboard that would work with the s3020n? The only M2NC51-AR (HematiteXL) I can find are in Hong Kong (EBAY)

Anyone have ideas? Without a MB I don't see how I can use this a hobby machine.
 
If you don't want to buy one of the hong kong motherboards just part it out and sell the working components on ebay...

processor
ram
hard-drive
power supply
case
cpu heatsink & fan
CD-ROM

You've prolly got $150 in components there.
 
bonipie said:
I don't know about 'under'clocking.
Click to expand...

Its a rather easy process and its build into Vista (32/64 doesnt matter what version)..

Just have to go into "Power Options" and click on "Processor Power Management"
From there you can change the "Maximum Processor State" to a different percentage (Stock is at 100%)
I can have my 2.6GHz run at 1GHz if I wanted and have it stay there..

Hope that helps..

/\/\/\/\/\/\​

Well now my sound is working fine..
Dont know whats going on with it..
I know there was a Vista Update that came up and I installed that..
Forgot witch one it was but so far after installing it my audio has been with out any crackle..
 
civicscooting,

I'm not sure how much wattage that saves through the Windows power management setup - I've never really tested it --- haven't had a call to prevent my CPU from working as fast as it can! :D Perhaps that does save watage...but "Underclocking" is typically coupled with undervolting. It's not very popular, but basically the opposite of overclocking. Instead of applying slightly more voltage to the CPU in effort to reach higher clock speeds through manipulating the front side bus (FSB) or clock multiplier, you undervolt the CPU, but try to main stability at default clockspeed -- you might possibly even lower clock speed by lowering the FSB or multiplier, if necessary, to get your PSU to the wattage draw you deem necessary.

Unfortunately, HP slimlines are not capable of overclocking, or underclocking or any voltage manipulation in the BIOS/CMOS --- All of that is locked down in the HP BIOS :(
 
I attempted a boot with the 9600 gt with the 6 pin power cable removed completely and it provided the same effect as the 9800 gt with the 6 pin cable in place. This leads me to believe the psu is good, but doesn't provide enough current to run a 9800 gt. I am curious do you think an upgrade to the FSP Group Booster X5 450W would do the trick?
 
Archaea,

When I first got my 3315 uk from HP is was clocked at 2.9, I did a sytem restore and it went to 2.6. Will I ever get it back to 2.9 again or is that it now for me? Any Ideas?

John.
 
JTBomb said:
Archaea,

When I first got my 3315 uk from HP is was clocked at 2.9, I did a sytem restore and it went to 2.6. Will I ever get it back to 2.9 again or is that it now for me? Any Ideas?

John.
Click to expand...

Download this program called CPU-Z --- It is a CPU/Motherboard/RAM information type program that I've used for years. Great little tool.

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

Run it and see what your exact processor is, what clock speed it is running at...You should not have lost three hundred Mhz unless your chip is throttling down to save power...
 
miosis said:
I attempted a boot with the 9600 gt with the 6 pin power cable removed completely and it provided the same effect as the 9800 gt with the 6 pin cable in place. This leads me to believe the psu is good, but doesn't provide enough current to run a 9800 gt. I am curious do you think an upgrade to the FSP Group Booster X5 450W would do the trick?
Click to expand...

I don't follow.

You tried to boot a 9600GT with no supplimental power and it worked? When the 9800GT's supplimental six pin power is removed the fan just runs at full speed and you get no video. If your fan is speeding up and you get no video then it's likely that your cd-rom based auxillary PSU is NOT working correctly -- rather than is. If it was working correctly the supplimental power should be MORE than enough to supply a 9600GT. Can you verify using a multimeter that the supplimental power supply is on? If you don't have a multimeter - perhaps just hook up a fan, or a LED, or something so you can verify you have power coming from the auxilary power supply.
 
Archaea said:
http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SkuSearch_v2.asp?SCriteria=BA25670
one of the best 45 watt AMD processors available for the slimline
$60.
Click to expand...

I will agree with you on this..
I had this posted as well but with the deletion of some of the pages last week the info is now gone..

It can also be found here as well:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103255

Specs incase anyone is interested:

CPU Socket Type: Socket AM2
Multi-Core: Dual-Core
Name: Athlon X2 4850e
Operating Frequency: 2.5GHz
L2 Cache: 2 x 512KB
64 bit Support:Yes
Hyper-Transport Support: Yes
Voltage: 1.15/1.20/1.25V
Thermal Power: 45W
Cooling Device: Heatsink and Fan included

Sents many SlimLines run at 2.6GHz stock anyways with the stock 65w CPU I think this is a must have upgrade for any one that has a SlimLine..
Not only does it use less power it even runs cooler as well..

Plus for under $60 you cant beat it..

However for the price being the same you can also get this one that is .1GHz more and is also running 45w (Plus this one is getting better reviews through out the net then the other):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103298
Here they are both being compared side by side:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2000340343%201445932492&bop=And&CompareItemList=N82E16819103298%2CN82E16819103255
 
Where are people getting their replacement PSU's?

I have the 3220n operating as my HTPC with a 512MB Radeon 3450 that runs 24x7 since I bought it last March (refurb).

Now the station is powering off at random typically 1 - 3 times a day. I'm thinking it's the PSU. Anyone else having similar issues?

It looks like I'll have to go to the 180w. I'd rather it be the CPU so I can replace it with a lower wattage chip.
 
Archaea said:
I don't follow.

You tried to boot a 9600GT with no supplimental power and it worked? When the 9800GT's supplimental six pin power is removed the fan just runs at full speed and you get no video. If your fan is speeding up and you get no video then it's likely that your cd-rom based auxillary PSU is NOT working correctly -- rather than is. If it was working correctly the supplimental power should be MORE than enough to supply a 9600GT. Can you verify using a multimeter that the supplimental power supply is on? If you don't have a multimeter - perhaps just hook up a fan, or a LED, or something so you can verify you have power coming from the auxilary power supply.
Click to expand...

I am sorry I wasn't clear. Let me clarify. It would not boot the 9600 with no supplemental power cable attached (as expected). Which is the same effect I got when I tried to power the 9800 with supplemental power hooked up. The supplemental psu works fine for the 9600, but is underpowered for the 9800 as far as I can tell. So I was considering trying the next step up in the supplemental psu so I can power the 9800.
 
Got my Adapter yesterday and the Sparkle PSU arrived today(my wife was nice enough to text me:)). I will get pics and post tomorrow how it went. I will try to baseline the cooling too. Question did anybody have to remove the CPU to get the guy out?
 
MoggSquad said:
Now the station is powering off at random typically 1 - 3 times a day. I'm thinking it's the PSU. Anyone else having similar issues?
Click to expand...

Im running the same model computer Mogg..
I even had the same problem on random shutdowns (however only about once a day with me)..
My computer is also on 24/7 for the most part..

However
Ever sents I installed my 3 fans to the case (for cooling) I have yet to have a shutdown on me..
Take note that I do not have an after market Graphics card (as of yet)..
So it could be do to power consumption as you have stated..
Or it could be just be due to just a cooling issue..
Need more info on your part thou bud on your system components as well as what Temp your running most of the time..
At least that would help me help you..

I woulent get the 180w though//
I would get at least 250w PSU plus you may want to look at some of the CPU's that I have posted in this thread that are posted on the top of this page that your looking at..

Keep us informed bud..
 
So I got home and started on the conversion. Man the sparkle is definitely shorter and has more cables, wherein the HP PSU only has 3.

What You Need
-The Sparkle 270LE PSU - Census PC (49.99 Plus Shipping
-ATX to Micro Adapter - ATX Power Supplies ($23.82)
-Molex to SATA Adapter - Census PC (Will explain why needed - 3.25 + 3.99 S&H)
-Thermal Grease - Census PC (I used the Spire 420)

Steps to Remove - Reverse to Re-Assemble
You will need to remove all of these things and this is the order i used to be able to remove the PSU:
Cover, Front Face Plate, CDROM, Hard drive, The Cage used to hold the CDROM & HD, CPU Heatsink.
I also removed the Media Card Reader and Lights but may not have needed to. If you want a nitty gritty version I can write down how many screws and cables per part, but I thought if you are doing this then just a list of parts and the order of their removal should cover most of you.

Replacement Notes
Since you have to remove the CPU I recommend replacing the thermal grease which I purchased with the PSU. I removed the grease using a paper towel. After getting it all off and replacing the PSU I put the new stuff back on and spread it with my finger wiping the excess on my finger off onto the heatsink, the spring loaded screws on the heatsink rock in making sure the right amount of pressure is applied to keep the Heatsink and CPU in contact

The PSU mounts in nice there is a lip in the case that the HP PSU sat on and the Sparkle sits on it great and using one screw that lined up on the back, it doesn't move around at all. So A+ on fit. Plus it is way shorter which gives your poor cramped case a tad more room even though some of it is taken up by all the extra cords. The ATX to HP Adapter worked fine.

One problem is that unlike the HP PSU that has two completely separate SATA Power Cord runs, the Sparkle has both Sata cords on one run(stretch of cable.) So right now I can only plug in the power for my HD for 2 reasons. 1st I can't use the SATA power in the middle because the connector has the power coming out on both sides and since the HD connector is right against the top of the other cage you can't get the Adapter on all the way so you must use the one on the end. 2nd even if you could use the middle one, by maybe not locking the HD cage all the way into the CDROM cage, the end one still wouldn't reach the CDROM. Quickest solution to me is use one of the free molex and get a Molex to Sata Adapter while you are getting the PSU ie here

Summary
Definitly Great, I would have been totally happy if I had already known about having to grab a molex to Sata Adapter. It is quieter(the fan is smaller on this guy). I didn't notice if the fan is pulling air in or not, I think it's pulling from my testing on the back. It is also cooler, which keeps the case from being able to fry eggs. Also on my tests the CPU is cooler, probably due more to the Thermal Grease Replacement, But being that the PSU is not radiating so much heat it must help. Not worrying about Power Reqs is great. Since I have a wireless Mouse & Keyboard, USB WLAN, and XFX 9500 GT 512MB. Going to keep the HP PSU around till my warranty runs out. But otherwise it ain't ever going back in.

I'll post some pics in the Next Post to make it easier for me, don't want to lose this post. Feel free to ask any questions(I have more pics but will only post necessary ones unless asked otherwise. I will be doing the USB Fan adaption when I get the Molex to Sata adapter and then be done. YAY.
 
Before (And yes that is my 1 year old helpers hand)
6920494_54e4444e8c.jpg


The Circled Cable is from the Sparkle(The reason I need a Molex to SATA Adapter)
6920495_bec268462e.jpg


The Back of the New Unit Installed
6920498_ca593a8ed1.jpg


The Lip that Holds the Sparkle in place.
6920497_26d35be8bd.jpg


The Final Beauty
6920505_e28ce373d0.jpg


I thought I would put the HP PSU on top of the case so you could see the length difference, pretty nice for the fact the I get more wattage, Less sound, and less Heat.
6920501_0a29d0c432.jpg


If you want more pics of the install go here http://www.zooomr.com/photos/tsmorty/
 
I have read this thread for a while now, and gather so much information it is great... Thanks!

I have recently decided to remove my current 8600 GT from my Slimline after 6 months of use. I previously needed it to power my 28 inch Hanns-G monitor, but I scaled down to the syncmaster 22, so I no longer need all that extra power.

I am just gauging interest and seeing if anyone would be interested in purchasing the card from me. It is the Chaintec 512mb 8600 GT. It is a good solid card that brought my windows experience up from roughly 3.6 to a 4.8.

I would be willing to let it go for 40 shipped anywhere in the US. I still have all original packaging and even the box from Newegg. I know I don't have any vouches on this site, but I do have a verified paypal with plenty of positive transactions, Great Ebay rep, numerous vouches on Hondaswap and Hondatech.

I will check this thread as much as possible, but It would be best to email me with questions. I can be reached at [email protected]. Thanks!

(Oh and I didn't use a forsale forum since this is slimline specific, but please move if I didn't follow the rules.)
 
tsmorty, thank you so much for sharing!!

Clarificaiton questions – so you were still able to power both the HD and CD-ROM right? Also what is the ATX to Micro Adapter for and where did you get it?
 
civicscootin said:
Im running the same model computer Mogg..
I even had the same problem on random shutdowns (however only about once a day with me)..
My computer is also on 24/7 for the most part..

However
Ever sents I installed my 3 fans to the case (for cooling) I have yet to have a shutdown on me..
Take note that I do not have an after market Graphics card (as of yet)..
So it could be do to power consumption as you have stated..
Or it could be just be due to just a cooling issue..
Need more info on your part thou bud on your system components as well as what Temp your running most of the time..
At least that would help me help you..

I woulent get the 180w though//
I would get at least 250w PSU plus you may want to look at some of the CPU's that I have posted in this thread that are posted on the top of this page that your looking at..

Keep us informed bud..
Click to expand...

I haven't dug into troubleshooting yet, but will this weekend. One thing I have noticed is unusual slow down on the system as a whole at random where I don't think it's being caused by software if that makes sense, this usually leads to a shut down.

I'm going to rip open the case and check in the inside to make sure all fans are spinning etc. What 250w do you recommend?
 
I could not power the CDROM, because the even though the new PSU did have 2 - 15pin SATA connectors, they were on the same cable(you can see it in the 2nd picture of my post the Red circled one is the new PSU), and if I plugged in the Hard drive the 2nd connector won't reach the CDROM. Since the PSU has spare Molex connectors you can get a Molex-to-SATA adapter, which I am going to do to power the CDROM. Luckily all my games I have images of My CD's using Alcohol 52% so It won't bug me till I get the Adapter.

The ATX to Micro adapter - I am not sure if that is the right name for it. HP Uses a special PSU connector on the their Slimline Motherboard's. In the Picture it is the part on the left. Most of the replacement PSUs we are showing have the connector type on the right. So you have to get that adapter. It can only be found at one place. Here http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/20-pin-to-24-pin-hp-slimline-atx-converter.htm
6923216_6f2e122fa2.jpg
 
that's mighty expensive for a tiny connector..haha..here in our little 'ol third world country a 20 pin to 24 pin converter only costs a dollar, heck they practically give these away at some of the pc stores here..wish there was a way i could sell these connectors tp you guys..:D

on another note..is anybody here going to try out the shuttle pc50 psu? right now im thinking if im gonna get the in win, the sparkle psu or the shuttle pc50..hope to hear opinions from folks here who have actually used these three..oh and btw, im currently using an hd3450 with a spare 9500gt on the side..if you may or may not have read my previous posts, my rig almost gave out on me while using the 9500gt so i switched back to the hd3450
 
MoggSquad said:
I haven't dug into troubleshooting yet, but will this weekend. One thing I have noticed is unusual slow down on the system as a whole at random where I don't think it's being caused by software if that makes sense, this usually leads to a shut down.
I'm going to rip open the case and check in the inside to make sure all fans are spinning etc. What 250w do you recommend?
Click to expand...
Our model only has a CPU cooling fan..
It very well may not be working~a good cleaning of the fan (and case) would help out a great deal on this issue..
Still~see if you can get some Temp. readings with CPU-Z (free download~google to try to find it bud) and post your results if you could..
As for the PSU:
This is still up in the air as there are many good PSU's on the market however you will have to get some other cables to run the SATA connections as well as a 20+4 cable as well..
The Sparkle (SPI270LE) is a good PSU..
Its 270w but you will need the requred cables to make it work for our computer (as well as most of the other PSU's listed)..
Link here:http://www.censuspc.com/Sparkle-Power-SPI270LE-270-Watts-FLEX-ATX-20-24-Pin-RoHS-Power-Supply-Bulk-pack-SKU-SPI270LE-pr-5902.html
The SeaSonic (SS-400H1U) is good as well but cost more (400w)..
Link here:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151064
Then theres the Shuttle (PC50) ~300w~..
Link here:http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php?name=PC50&show=r
Then the last one I suggest would be the IN-Win (IP-P300F1-0) 300w
However there is some heating issues with this as the fan blows all the heat strait into the case (many users have reversed the fan thou in order to sux air into the PSU to try to cool the case even more..
Link here:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817374002

Archaea said:
Unfortunately, HP slimlines are not capable of overclocking, or underclocking or any voltage manipulation in the BIOS/CMOS --- All of that is locked down in the HP BIOS :(
Click to expand...
Just noticed about this replie that you gave out..
Even thou you cant under clock the the CPU and lock it~you can emulate the CPU clock down to 1GHz with in the "Power Management" manger..
This is by no means under clocking the CPU however it will hold the CPU at a givin percentage when set with in Vista..
Thats all that I ment by what I had said in the post before this past replie that you had givin..

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\​

Great job on the upgrade tsmorty
 
After some more game playing it does seam that the whole system is cooler, plus the case is not toasty to the touch. I have been monitoring the temps before and after the upgrade with Hardware ID, I believe that's the name. I think the other PSU I never went over it's limites but I think that I was running it about 95% which they really aren't expected to run like that full time, so I believe that's why the case was so hot.
Or were you guys also noticing the default PSU & Case around it are pretty hot.

Sound wise it did ramp up while we were playing. I didn't notice it during the game so it wasn't load enough to bug. I am not even sure if it's loader then the old one. Not much of an audiophile so I don't notice small differences of sound.
 
I got the sparkle 270 watt PSU today and plugged it into the S3600T...

It fired up the first time.

Unfortunately my otherwise silent PC is no longer silent. The 9800GT makes the 40mm fan on the Sparkle 270watt PSU ramp up before the PC is even warm to the touch. It isn't as loud as my current gaming rigg with 1 x 120mm and 4 x 80mm -- but I was hoping for silent. I may either sell the whole thing or try the PC50 PSU with this load and see if it is silent. From what I can determine the PC50 is silent -- even under a Q6600 and 4870graphics card in a shttle PC. (http://www.sudhian.com/index.php?/forums/viewthread/103700/) BUT --- I also heard this little Sparkle was quiet....Gonna sleep on the decision. Nothing else in the case makes noise...It's just the PSU --- and I think it's because of the heavy 9800GT's load because I found other threads here at [H]ardforum where people indicated the spakle 270 watt PSU is inaudibly silent. Also the dang quad core is hot when the case is all buckled up. My 40mm fans haven't arrived yet ---but darn if my CPU temp accourding to Core Temp doesn't register as 74*C on the hottest core and my computer is only updating to SP1 right now -- me on this website and otherwise idle. BUT --- with the old PSU the top of the case got hot -- with the sparkle and it's little fan -- the top of the case is only warm.


Perhaps tomorrow I'll take out the 9800GT and run the slimline off the onboard video card and see if sparkle 270 watt PSU is truly silent.
 
tsmorty said:
What You Need
-The Sparkle 270LE PSU - Census PC (49.99 Plus Shipping
-ATX to Micro Adapter - ATX Power Supplies ($23.82)
-Molex to SATA Adapter - Census PC (Will explain why needed - 3.25 + 3.99 S&H)
-Thermal Grease - Census PC (I used the Spire 420)

Steps to Remove - Reverse to Re-Assemble
You will need to remove all of these things and this is the order i used to be able to remove the PSU:
Cover, Front Face Plate, CDROM, Hard drive, The Cage used to hold the CDROM & HD, CPU Heatsink.
I also removed the Media Card Reader and Lights but may not have needed to. If you want a nitty gritty version I can write down how many screws and cables per part, but I thought if you are doing this then just a list of parts and the order of their removal should cover most of you.

Replacement Notes
Since you have to remove the CPU I recommend replacing the thermal grease which I purchased with the PSU. I removed the grease using a paper towel. After getting it all off and replacing the PSU I put the new stuff back on and spread it with my finger wiping the excess on my finger off onto the heatsink, the spring loaded screws on the heatsink rock in making sure the right amount of pressure is applied to keep the Heatsink and CPU in contact

The PSU mounts in nice there is a lip in the case that the HP PSU sat on and the Sparkle sits on it great and using one screw that lined up on the back, it doesn't move around at all. So A+ on fit. Plus it is way shorter which gives your poor cramped case a tad more room even though some of it is taken up by all the extra cords. The ATX to HP Adapter worked fine.
Click to expand...

Hey bud -- good job on the write-up...I have a couple of suggestions ---

1. Clean off the old thermal goo with rubbing alchohol -- you never want two types of thermal goos to mix because you can cause chemical reactions or loss of proper cooling.
2. Never use your finger to spread the thermal goo - the oils on your hand lessen the thermal compounds ability to transfer heat. I recommend using a credit card to smooth out the thermal paste as well. It should be spread extremely thin and evenly so as to avoid air bubbles.
3. You can fit three of the four screw holes on the back of the Sparkle PSU if you smoosh down the two stock PSU mounting brackets a wee bit. With the ledge and three mounting screws in the hold that PSU isn't going anywhere!
4. The Sparkle 270 watt PSU does NOT have a 6 pin PCI-E connector - so if your card requires that connector for supplimental power you'll need to pick up a molex to PCI-E adapter.
5. As best I can tell the ATX adapater that is needed for our slimline PCs is called Micro-Fit.



How loud would you describe your Sparkle 270 watt PSU at idle?
 
MoggSquad said:
What 250w do you recommend?
Click to expand...

There are no recommended 250 watt PSUs.

Read page 116 and 117 and in that area...


There are three recommended PSU's for the slimline from what I've read online in this forum and others. There is a 400 watt seasonic that would be awesome - but all signs point to it being too loud for most peoples desire.


The Sparkle SPI270LE 270 watt
The Shuttle PC50 300 watt
the In-Win IP-P300F1-0 300 watt

Perks -
The Sparkle ($50) is 80% efficient and has an active PFC (that's a good thing)
the Shuttle ($80) is expensive but supposedly silent and also has an active PFC
The In-Win ($30) is very cheap, but been used by several people on this board with success - stat wise it is a less distinguished PSU than the Sparkle or Shuttle.
 
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