The importance of extended leak testing

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DanNeely

Supreme [H]ardness
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Aug 26, 2005
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When I put the loop together for my new i7-920 I noticed that the plastic barbs in my swiftech rad would pop back on the threads if I tried tightening them too far. I tightened them to just short of that point and after 24hrs of leak testing all seemed to be good so I moved the setup from my kitchen table to my case and screwed everything in place. I also wrapped all the barbs with a klenex folded to be 8 layers thick. This morning (about 2 weeks later) I pulled them all off. One of the two barbs was fine, the second leaked a trace amount of coolant and stained the first 6 layers of tissue.

Since the barbs are directly over my PSU if the leak rate were to gradually increase unnoticed this could have been very bad. As it is, I've just rewrapped them and will be ordering metal replacements online. I'd been looking for an excuse to redo the loop anyway, because I flubbed the asembly and had one of the hoses both a foot longer than it needed to wrapped around a second.
 
*nod*

If i was buying seperate parts I'd've gone metal initially but they came bundled with it and did 2 yars of good service.
 
I am. The leak is coming from where the barb screws into the rad, not where the hose goes onto the barb.
 
I have swapped all my plastic barbs out from my H2O Ultra+ kit to metal ones, in the process I also dropped down to 8/10mm hose to make it easier to work with. Total difference is 1C high load temps (so basically nothing).

On my other cheap kit I have used 1 right angle plastic connector, what a real pain it is. I have had 2 leaks from it recently but luckily both times I had seen it before I put it into use. I have now used some sealant on the bend to reduce the chances of leaks while the unit is in use. I tried an experiment with it by using the connector that fitted the best and ignoring the "never use right angled connectors" posts I keep seeing here. This unit has CPU, NB, GPU, Pump, Res and dual RAD with only 4 straight connectors, the rest are right angle to make the pipework easy. I have no problems with temp at all, even when overclocked. Its a B3 Q6600 at stock (HTPC system) and runs at about 30C idle and 40C max load, this is from core temp, I have even undervolted the pump to make it ultra quiet and the flow rate is very low for a water loop.
 
Swiftech plastic barbs are ok under the right conditions.

I use them on my Apogee waterblock and my MCRES. I use a single strip of teflon tape around each barb. No more than that as it will make the barb hard to screw in. Make sure the O ring compressed... but not flattens. There's no need to do more than just slightly compress it. Also, make sure you try your hardest not to pull the barbs up/down/side to side. Since the threads are plastic they might easily get moved and essentially cross thread.
 
I see lots of watercooling posts with pictures showing people doing things I consider lazy like using zip ties instead of clamps.

I personally only use compression fittings and matching hose. They cost a bit more, but they don't leak, they don't loosen up over time, and they don't come off.
 
I used to use the plastic clamps but then I needed to make a change which required getting it off and that was the end of them. They are bitch. I have used zip ties on the last 4 setups I have built and never had a leak. They are cheap and easy to remove/replace when needed.
 
Metal worm drives all the way here. Been WCing for over 4 years and I've used plastic Herbie clips and the metal worm drives. Completely satisfied with the worm drives. Easy on and easy off. Just can't over tighten then or they will cut/rip your hose.
 
Heres a little trick I learned years ago 7/16th tubing and no clamps on 1/2 inch barbs. Believe it or not in 8 years never a leak. Only exception is clamps on the laing pump, clamps are a must there.

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