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That looks really sweet.
It didn't look like anyone else asked this yet, but wouldn't it be better to have those fans on the radiators flipped around the other way so they are blowing through the radiators and out instead of pulling through them and then blowing against each other?
It was a little painful for me to see how much effort went into making your feet. Judging from your method of construction, I could surmise you haven't spent a lot of time in a machine shop. But hey, you did the the best you could with the knowledge and equipment you had. The feet turned out great!
I'll be keeping an eye on your progress. I wanna see if you can achieve leak proof.
Keep up the great work.
Wow...good job! This will turn out awesome. Can't wait to see finished product.
Wow, this is going to be awesome when it's done!
Great skills indeed! Looking better every time
Regarding the LED in the switches, if you use them at the rated voltage (~110/220V), the LED will go on when the switch is in an 'on' position. No additional wiring required.
Nice work sir !
You can bet I'll be watching this.
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I realize you already have your oil , but you might check out this thread if you havnt already.There's a lot of good info on submersion cooling fluids.
great job here man, can't wait to see it finished...
good lord this is an impressive case.. i wish i had these kind of fabrication skills
can't wait to see how this turns out!!
hell yeah, watchmen is epic!
Thanks. Re: the LED: That's what I thought. However, it doesn't light up when I switch it on. I plugged a lamp into my outlets to test; the lamp powers on but the LED in the switch stays dark. There's a third lead on the switches that I was unsure what to do with, maybe I need to do something with it?
That's different from the illuminated switches I have seen/used... do you have a data sheet of your switch, or at least a model number? It may be that your switch uses a different anode/cathode source or so. No idea really Do you happen to know whether the switch is SPST or SPDT?
It is this switch: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtNT9UGfLL4eOd3cDQgL8vM5%2bq1URNopM4=
SPST. The "data sheet" just links to the manufacturer's site. It doesn't mention an LED. You think it would advertise it if it had one.
ILLUMINATED ACTUATOR: Polycarbonate, matte finish.
Momentary and maintained functions
Under 'Materials':
So yes, it is illuminated, there is however no data sheet AFAICT which spells out the internal wiring, although the spec page lists:
Which I have no idea what they mean exactly, other than that one side is perhaps a switch and the other side a button (NO/NC), which'd be a very, very unusual configuration...
Nah, you don't have a LED version, but apparently a neon bulb one (125VAC). Apparently all you need to do is to hook terminal 3 up to ground.
That is correct. You need to establish another ground for the light to work.
Mind if I hop over for a bite of that cake?
You didn't credit me for solving the illumination issue
It's okay looking good! Very industrial too.
I tip my hat to you sir.
Excellent work!
Can't wait to see it finished....
This Looks amazing!
this thing is looking better and better every day.. and the ball bearings are definitely a good idea, i love them on my ATCS 840
Sorry! I copied and pasted the update from Bit-tech without making any changes. I normally go back through each post when I submit it to [H] to make sure it makes sense, answer any questions, and respond to comments. I posted this update late last night, so I didn't get a chance to do so. Thanks for helping to figure it out!
I'll have some of that cheesecake as an apology
Wow that is crazy!!! Looking foward to the completion!!!