The Ultimate Low-Tech Case Painting, Baking and Support Thread

mattym said:
My real only place to get spray paint atm is the local Home Depot. And as far as "Self-Etching" goes their info is a little vague. Here is what they offer as far as primers.

Primers

Would you recomend either of them if my plans are a Light Green Color coat.
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I can't see them, since I'm in Canada, and that's the US webstore ;). But, any metal primer will work, but, you HAVE to bake this primer to get the same adhesion as you would get with an etching primer.

I'd go with a metal primer from whatever brand you're paint is made by, probably rustoleum.

dystopic said:
Arcy, i really must commend the hard work and dedication you show this community. this is truly a great reference.
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Hehe, thanks :)
 
Yea, my local HD (like most in NYC) is run by tards. They were no help in helping me find what i needed, and didn't have most. They didn't stock #4010 tape and as i know now they didnt have U-Channel or anything close.

While i was there i looked into their spray paint cage, as was disappointed with what i saw.
Not to mention they stopped stocking Krylon. So next time im at the Walmart ill check out their selection. They have a nice fluorescent green that i may use.
 
*Are there any Self-Etching Primers you know of. Ive scoured Rust-Oleum and Krylons sites. Have yet to find one that even says it is. Their site searches turn up nothing at all. Would a automotive primer coat work?*

Like i had mentioned i dont have the ability to bake it.

EDIT: Scratch that all, i found a Dupli-Color automotive self etching primer. Tho it only comes in a horrible drab green color. Should work out ok tho.
 
I use SEM self etching primer. It works well on alum, steel, etc. Its about 11 a can sort of pricey, but I think its worth it.
 
^^^ no, but it might lift because the adhesive is warm and fuzzy, or it might be hard to take off.
 
Thank you VERY much for this thread. You've inspired me to tear apart my Antec 900 again, I think a metallic stormy gray with red led lighting is in order :D Truly a great guide.

Also, for those of you who are planning to replace riveting with machine screws, I recommend stainless steel screws and some BLUE Loctite. SS for thread strength and good looks, blue Loctite to keep the screws in even with vibration and moving the case around.
 
so i'm almost done painting all of the main interior parts of my case. actually, i am done, i just need to put the top back on. anyway, I mentioned earlier that I was going to rivet my case back together, which I did and I think in the end it will all turn out well. however, I must say that if I had to do it over again, I would take the advice of Arc and tap the holes and use screws. The reason for this is there were multiple instances where I'd be riveting it together and the rivet would pop and the jerking motion would cause my riveter to scratch the paint. luckily the bad parts i'll never see and I was able to touch up the others, but just something for all of you to think about. I'll post some pics of my case once it's all together. should be sometime next week when I get a chance to finish it.

I also have a pic of some 5.25" bay covers that I painted. Some were sanded, primed, and painted. Others were dyed with SEM vinyl dye. Gives a good comparison of what you can expect from each. I'll try to get that posted next week too.

Also, if I had been brave enough (and patient enough), I would have baked my paint. However, I was hasty, and it showed in some of the pieces. they scratch quite easily, which may have been part of my problem with the riveting.
 
The original case:




The paint (for this part, I only used "Banner Red", Flat Black, Primer, and Clear Coat):


The Vinyl Dye:


The parts:



The plastic bay cover test (from left - red dye, banner red, black dye, gloss black, white dye; no, i didn't have another cover to test gloss white on)


An issue I ran into with 2 of the pieces (had to strip it all off and start over):


Partially together:


Finished Product (Yes, I assure you it's red, not orange):



 
Awesome guide, I think I may give case painting a shot. (Sort of afraid to mess up, but that's why I have a guinea pig case or two to try with. ;))

Question though -

Arcygenical said:
Note: Self etching primers contain metal etchants which help the paint adhere to metal. These etchants are manufactured to eat the surfaces of steel and aluminum. They will do the same to your lungs. Please, do your priming outdoors, and wear a painter's mask if you have one available. Sanding an etching primer releases toxic chemicals as well, often lead and dried acids, wear a mask during primer sanding, especially if it's done indoors. Painting/sanding with regular paint is nowhere near as toxic though, so later steps can be done in doors, without a mask. I never recommend painting a colour coat outdoors, as every insect on the planet will be attracted to your work, suicidally bent on destroying your creation.
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So (just clarifying) - apply the primer outdoors for sure, and do the actual color painting indoors if possible? Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

Thanks for all your hard work, Arcygenical. :)
 
Thanks again for the guide Arcy - here's my heavily modded and painted CM 340. :)

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Self-etching primers are easily found in auto parts stores by the paint. Also in Wal-Mart's auto section (again, by the touch-up paint). Only comes in one color: green.
 
This is an excellent guide! Very detailed and thorough like all guides should be. I've gotten a few scratches on my new Antec 1200 already so I may end up doing something like this to it and re-painting it. Right now I'm just trying to find some black automotive touch-up paint that matches it well to fix a few scratches around where the window side panel slides off.
 
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