The WC Thread: You got questions, we got answers!

|Leviathan| said:
GPU Water Block - MSI 6800gt

Aquagrafx 6800
Alphacool NexXxos NVXP-3
Dangerden NV 68


(In this case I would rather prefer something which cools my whole card rather than just the gpu and than heatsinks on ram)
If that's the case, then you're looking at those top 3 options. Another option that is actually cheaper than the NV68 is the EK-FC78, and there was some discussion of their x1900 series block recently. Out of the 3 (4 with the EK) blocks, the DangerDen and EK are the least restrictive, so if you're planning on a 1/2" or high performance 3/8" loop, those are your best bets. The other 2 are mainly for smaller (1/4"-3/8" tubing) loops, and one of their selling points is their visual appearance, but the same can be said of the DangerDen (DD) and EK blocks.

|Leviathan| said:
CPU Water Block - AMD64 3500 Venice

Dangergen Copper TDX Block
cuplex XT 2-Loch-mounting A64
Swiftech Storm
All of the blocks you listed will cool your Venice just fine, although if you pick a powerful pump (D5), the Storm and Cuplex XT will likely cool somewhat better than the TDX. The TDX is the cheapest however, and the XT's price is considering that you do indeed like its appearance (for pure performance, the Storm beats the XT). Another option (sorry) are the highly underrated MP series blocks from D-Tek Customs.

|Leviathan| said:
Pump

Dangerden 12V DD-D5 pump
Dangerden CSP MAG 12V (maybe 2 in a row?)

Hyder Seltz C35
Eheim 1250

I am most interested in the D5 pump, but I have read that it is quite annoyingly audable, and thats the reason why i considered the eheim which although is 120V, i have read it is really silent. Anyone can comment on the D5?
And i have read about ppl which have 2 MAG's in their loop, becasue they're silent, small and efficent and although powerful they need for power in more restictive ambients.

The ncie thing about the D5 is if it is too loud for you, it gives you the option of reducing the pump's sound, at the cost of reducing its power. Volume levels are highly subjective though, as some find the D5 at max to be silent, while others can definately hear it. The 120VAC pumps aren't needed anymore, as there are 12VDC pumps that fit the noise levels and performance of them. Systemcooling has a good review of the Mag (including using two) that can probably help you decide some more (remember, two Mags would be over $100, while the D5 is $75).

|Leviathan| said:
Radiator

Black Ice Xtreme X-Flow Rad
Black Ice Pro X-Fow Rad
Black Ice Xtreme Rad
Black Ice Pro Rad
ThermoChill HE120.1


I have seen that most users go for the pro version rather than the xtreme version, but i still cant find a reason + can anyone explain to me also the difference between the normal rad and the so tagged X Flow rads? i dont imagine a great lot of a differnece since price difference is only a couple of dollars, except of course the Thermochill which well i honestly dont know whats the difference from a radiator so if anyone is so gentle to explain :confused:
Black Ice Pro (BIP) radiators are meant to be used with quiter, lower CFM fans (not quite Nexus, but those will work fine with them). Black Ice Extremes (BIX) can perform better than a BIP, but they need higher cfm, louder fans to accomplish this. The X Flow rads are single pass, so they should be slightly less restrictive than regular Black Ice radiators. Thermochill radiators are more expansive, but generally regarded as very high performing and efficient.

|Leviathan| said:
Reservior

Swiftech Mices-Micro Hi Flo
DD Round cylindrical Res
Others?


Regarding the swiftech reservior apparently it has a slanting design to prevent air bubbles or something of the like : Link : owners and not owners, do yu suggest this res? or any other?
Reservoir choice doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't restrict flow and does its job by quickly getting rid of air bubbles in a loop. The two you mentioned are known to meet both of those criteria, so either should work for you. If you want to choose a reservoir over a T-line (only $1), your decision will likely be based on which design you like the best. If you plan on using dye and/or UV, there are 5 1/4" and 3 1/2" bay reservoirs that are made of clear acryllic, for example. Swiftech had some quality control issues with their blocks a while back, but they should be back to producing high quality products by now. You may want to ask around still to see if a lot of people have received cracked reservoirs or ones that started leaking after a while.

Other stuff you'll need:


  • Distilled water (a gallon should be plenty)
  • Anti-corrosion (if your loop has any aluminum in it), anti-growth additive(s)
  • Hose clamps (you'll need at least 12 for your loop)
  • Thermal paste (AS5 for cpu/gpu core, some other non-conductive paste for your 6800gt's ram chips)
  • Time (do a leak test for at least 24 hours), patience, and a camera (why make a loop and not show it to us?)
You also need to decide what size barbs and tubing you will be using (this can potentially limit you block, pump, and radiator options), but otherwise, take you time, and good luck.



The things I do for people during my Spring Break...:p
 
thanks very much indeed ikellensbro.

with your help i have finaly decided what the final setup will be : )

1/2" ID tubing
DD D5 Pump
DD NV68 GPU block
DD Thermochill HE210
Cuplex XT
Swiftech Mices-Micro Hi Flo

Now the last few questions

plastic or metal hoses? < sry meant clips

AS5 on ram chips can be done?

Fluid xp, comments? + can i add uv dyes with this liquid?


And the most important, a store which provides al these items under one roof? :(
 
Show me the link to your metal hose, I'd like to some. Anyway, if you're planning on a 1/2" loop, you might want to check out 7/16"id-5/8"od tubing. It's vyer flexible, not as bulky as 3/4"od tubing, and it fits tightly over 1/2" barbs, so leaks are nearly impossible. You'll need to get some 1/2" fittings for your Cuplex XT, as Sharka doesn't give you that option from their site.

AS5 on ram chips can be done, but you have to be careful with the application, as even a little spreading could cause an electrical short. Ram chips don't need much cooling anyway, so older AS versions, like Ceramique, will cool just fine and are non-conductive.

With Fluid XP, it adds some cost and maybe increases temperatures 1*C, but it can give you peace of mind. In general, if you run at least a 24 hour leak test, chances are you won't get a leak anyway, but if there is one, Fluid XP alone will not cause any problems. It is a somewhat clear liquid, so dyes should be able to color it reasonably well. A water based (or dye sold dilluted in water) would add some conductivity, but as long as you use concentrated dye(s), there shouldn't be much conductivity added (although you should still take your time to make sure messy leaks don't happen in the first place).

Dangeden has the D5, NV68, and Thermochill rads; Jab-tech has the D5, 7/16"id tubing, Thermochill rads, and MCRES-micro, while you would have to get your Cuplex XT from Sharka and get some 1/2" barb fittings for it as well (TN would be able to help you with this). No one has everything in one place, but I can say that Jab-tech has cheap shipping ($8 from Oklahoma to California for a 4 pound package).
 
ok then i managed through dangerdenstore and jab tech, thanks indeed for your help

from jabtech i ordered
nv 68 [if they can provide it with 1/2" id fittings since apparently its only available in 3/8", and in that case this is bought from dd directly altough at a higher price]
swiftech micres micro
and i went for the swiftech storm instead of the cuplex xt
and an arctic cooling fan, the ACF 12

from dangerden:
D5 pump
Tygon tubing
fluid xp
pc ice blue
clamps
and i decided on the thermochill PA 120.1, if you have any comments on this solution please advice.

now its time for the sleepless nights when everyday i wait for my parts to arrive *sob*
a btw i dunt know what i was typing when i said metal hose lool i meant clips/clamps but nevermind went for plastic on the safe side

ps: BIG thanks for your guidance, patience and help!!!
 
Actually the one WC question that I have is this:

I am going to be putting a waterblock on my x850 Pro and was wondering if I really need to put some heatsinks on the memory?

Some pics that I have seen in the WC forum have heatsinks on the memory for the video cards, some don't. I am assuming that if you overclock the GPU that you would need to but I don't plan on overclocking the GPU at all.
 
Alright, my old pump died, so I've been on air for a while, and I'm going back to water. So here are my questions.

1. Will a Black Ice Pro 80mm or two cool down an AMD Opteron 146? Overclocked?
2. How will my (now dead) Hydor L35 work with my soon-to-come Eheim 1250?
3. Will tygon really make that much of a difference in cooling? It's going into a mid tower, all 1/2".
4. What fans are recommended if I go with the Black Ice Pro 120 1/2/3 ?
5. Should I go with the Black Ice Pro 120x2 or 120x3?
6. Will a Y-splitter work in place of a T-line, if I run tubing out of it and use it like one?
7. If there's some little bits of crap like a few shavings of plastic/delrin inside the waterblock (Dtek whitewater) how will that affect the loop?
8. I heard something about if you put a 5/8 for the IN on the eheim, it'll be better. Anyone confirm?
9. Is there anywhere else (pref. in canada) to get masterkleer 7/16?
10. How great are those worm-gear clamps compared to the plastic ones?
11. Thanks for answering these questions.
 
Bbq said:
Alright, my old pump died, so I've been on air for a while, and I'm going back to water. So here are my questions.

1. Will a Black Ice Pro 80mm or two cool down an AMD Opteron 146? Overclocked?
2. How will my (now dead) Hydor L35 work with my soon-to-come Eheim 1250?
3. Will tygon really make that much of a difference in cooling? It's going into a mid tower, all 1/2".
4. What fans are recommended if I go with the Black Ice Pro 120 1/2/3 ?
5. Should I go with the Black Ice Pro 120x2 or 120x3?
6. Will a Y-splitter work in place of a T-line, if I run tubing out of it and use it like one?
7. If there's some little bits of crap like a few shavings of plastic/delrin inside the waterblock (Dtek whitewater) how will that affect the loop?
8. I heard something about if you put a 5/8 for the IN on the eheim, it'll be better. Anyone confirm?
9. Is there anywhere else (pref. in canada) to get masterkleer 7/16?
10. How great are those worm-gear clamps compared to the plastic ones?
11. Thanks for answering these questions.


1. I suggest you get BIP2.
2. Eheim 1250 will performs better and less noisy.
3. Tygon will not increase temperature differences, but they are known for good flexibilities.
4. Yate Loons - Very quiet, move lots of air and is Cheap.
5. BIP 2 is fine
6. Y-Splitter is not needed
7. Affect the temperature a lot, therefor clean your water components with vinegar and distlled water first. (50/50 mix vinegar and distlled water)
8. I doubt that.
9. Dont know
10. No differences, personal references
11. No problem
 
bail_w said:
2. Eheim 1250 will performs better and less noisy.

Not true - the pumps have pretty much identical flow rates and head pressure. As for noise, my Hydor L30 is pretty much silent ;)
 
How does this sound for a 1/2" setup?

Swiftech MCP655 Pump
Swiftech MCW60 GPU block
Swiftech STORM rev 2
Thermochill PA 120.3

Another question, is the performance difference between single pass and double pass radiators noticeable?
 
Quick radiator question:

I see a lot of people that have two 120mm fans on their single 120mm radiator(one on each side). Would there be a disadvantage to doing this with a dual 120mm radiator?
 
mrbay: That sounds like a very nice loop you have planned there.
There isn't oo much difference between single and double pass radiators, at least nothing very noticeable. Single pass can potentially be less restrictive, but not a great amount. Single pass might make tubing easier to route, however.

Hinokagutsuchi: There wouldn't be much of a disadvantage, as long as you mount the fans correctly (one side pushing, the other pulling). There would be more noise, but adding two more fans usually gives that result. You might potentially see a larger performance gain from using a shroud and two fans compared to just running two fans on each side.
 
I got a BIP3 instead of the Thermochill PA120.3, how much will this affect me? Also, for fans I purchased 3 Nexus 120mm ball bearing fans which state that they have noise levels of 20.79db and airflow of 45.9cfm, is this decent for a quiet setup, or is there better?

One more thing, about the BIP3, should i mount 6 fans push+pull, or would it not make a difference if I just use 3 pulling

Last thing, I promise. What loops would your recommend for my setup (swiftech storm rev 2, mcw60, mcp655, bip3)?
 
hello i am new to watercooling but i have read some threads in some other forums and inda understand it.
I habe some questions
1. Is wcing only worth it on high end components?
2. When ou upgrade like you cpu, video card,hd,etc. do you have to take apart the watercooling and then put in the pc component that you want to put in then reconnect all of the wc gear?
3. Is their like a guide that can help me like step by step like "Then you put the tube there," or something like that.
 
mrbay: You might lose 1-2 degrees, although your fan choice is perfect for the BIP3 (3 Nexus 120mms still won't be very loud - ~27dBa). 6 fans pushing and pulling would make some difference, but nothing monumental. Plus, the price of those extra fans is getting close to the price difference of the BIP3 and PA120.3 ;). Your planned loop will work just fine, don't worry.

boomheadshot45:
1. Water cooling does cost a nice chunk of change (at least $150 for a decent loop), and that price could be used to upgrade a cpu/gpu to give more performance than you would get from overclocking given by the water cooling. It all depends on how much you value extra cooling, potential extra OCing, quieter cooling, and the positive of just having a loop in the first place.

2. It all depends on how you have your loop set up. Upgrading a previously water cooled cpu/gpu usually just means undoing the mounting on the previous chip/card, pulling back the black so you have room to install the upgraded item, then remounting the water block. Hard drives may be more difficult to get to, but you likely won't have enough of an issue to require taking apart your entire loop.

3. The process to set up a loop all depend on how you arrange your loop, your components, case, hardware, etc. Try and look at other peoples' loops to get some ideas, then plan out what components/kit you want to get, and if there aren't adequate instructions given, come here and ask for some help.
 
That is why there is a 24 hour leak test, to find any leaks within the loop. The loop test is performed without any of the actual components attatched to any water blocks. Also, if there does happen to be a leak in your system, if you use non-conductive water like pc ice, nothing will get damaged.
 
aaaa ok, another indecision :rolleyes: lol, now tte issue is the fan lol

i just got a catalogue of ebm/papst fans from a coworker of mine (ours is a special heat exchangers/ ac's units company) which states that there is nothing better than this brand

well after i took a peep at their section of 120mm fans, a big question arose in my mind

what is the noise level (in dB) lmiit, which once exceed, noise level gets generally freaky for the user

reason is that there are fans which go down to 30dB(A) but have a perpetual airflow of 95 m^3/h

and well then there are fans which go up to a whopping 60dB(A) but with an airflow of 275m^3/h

the lowest is 27db and the maximum is 61 db, with a range of almost 3 fans per each single unit in dB range between these.

and believe me this is frustrating... so, taking in consideration that i'm going to buy the thermochill PA 120.1, what would you suggest?
and in your user's opinion what is the maximum bearable noise level?

please take in consideration that i want a quiet pc, not the quietest but something which i can rlx with since its 24/7 on and close to my bed too (bought 1-2m away)

later i wil post a datasheet of random units with noise level / air flow info so that you can help me even more

sorry for the long and complicated post but i need to have more opinions

thanks!~
 
Everyone perceives noise differently, so it could help us if you find the dBA of some components you have right now, and tell us if they're too loud or quiet enough for you. If you want some more fan noise and performance reviews, check out Silentpcreview and Madshrimps' roundups. They both have mp3s of the fan noises, so you can compare as long as you calibrate your listening properly (try and use closed-ear headphones, get rid of any extra noise, adjust the volume as guided, etc.).
 
I've done a lot of reading on here so hopefully I won't have too many questions.

I will soon be the proud owner of the original Swiftech Extreme Duty kit with the Storm block care of Ebay. $200 Buy it Now price. I'll be a happy camper if/when it arrives.

Pretty sweet deal I think!
 
DC plugs into your power supply. AC goes straight into the power socket in your wall.
 
I've skimmed through alot of posts and several how-to's . And from the looks of it I get the feeling that most seem to have hundreds of little gotchas and I see that most seem to have people running and buying 5-20 different little things. Do the kits that exist not do a complete and thorough job?

Regarding cpu mounting brackets, how does one tell whether one will be able to mount a water cooling device on the cpu?
Are there any specific kits that cover cpu, gpu and memory?
 
Fort_Major said:
I've skimmed through alot of posts and several how-to's . And from the looks of it I get the feeling that most seem to have hundreds of little gotchas and I see that most seem to have people running and buying 5-20 different little things. Do the kits that exist not do a complete and thorough job?

Regarding cpu mounting brackets, how does one tell whether one will be able to mount a water cooling device on the cpu?
Are there any specific kits that cover cpu, gpu and memory?

The kits are ususally overpriced, underperforming, and not upgradable.

The CPU block should say "AMD K8, P4 775, P4 478, etc". AMD K8 = athlon64/opteron, 775 = prescott, 478 = northwood and prescott that have the pins on the cpu.

There are specific blocks that cover gpu, cpu, and memory. Memory cooling isn't really needed though.
 
Any recommend for budget custom watercooling kit for AMD S939? Before that, anybody using Nirox Pump P2800 here?

AF-295_L.gif
 
I'd never use that pump, ever again. Mine didn't hold more than a few weeks. So I can't recommend anyone else using it...
 
I'm looking at an Iwaki MD-20RZG-2 pump right now. It says on the label in red, "DO NOT RUN PUMP DRY". Does that mean that it can only be submerged in water for it to be used, meaning a no-go for watercooling? I've heard of one person using this pump before, but I'd like to hear some opinions. Do most Iwaki's have this label?
 
ikan_semilang said:
Any recommend for budget custom watercooling kit for AMD S939? Before that, anybody using Nirox Pump P2800 here?

AF-295_L.gif

am I the only one who sees that thing as a Hydor?
 
young-blood said:
I'm looking at an Iwaki MD-20RZG-2 pump right now. It says on the label in red, "DO NOT RUN PUMP DRY". Does that mean that it can only be submerged in water for it to be used, meaning a no-go for watercooling? I've heard of one person using this pump before, but I'd like to hear some opinions. Do most Iwaki's have this label?

By 'DO NOT RUN DRY' it means, it must have water circulating, be it from tubing, or submerged. The Impeller must not be run dry. as long as you have a supply of water, and properly bled, you should be fine. Just like every other pump.
 
Bbq said:
By 'DO NOT RUN DRY' it means, it must have water circulating, be it from tubing, or submerged. The Impeller must not be run dry. as long as you have a supply of water, and properly bled, you should be fine. Just like every other pump.

Ok, makes sense.. I thought of that being a possibility but I really wanted to feel sure about it. Now it's a must-buy. Thanks for the quick response. :D
 
I would like to know, is the silentstar water block and hdd enclosure a good solution if I want to silence my hdd for my next build or should I go for a non-water cooled enclosure (nexus drive-a-way)?

I know it doesnt worth the pressure drop... but i want silence.

My build will include:
tygon r3603 3/8" ID 5/8" OD
swiftech apogee
DD DDC plus pump
DD Acetal brass GPU
A8n Chipet WB
 
goodgod said:
I think you're good, as this chipset block is specific for a8n boards so it doesnt block any pci-e slot.
thought so too, but just to be sure since the a8n32 design somehow differs from the normal a8n, although i dont feel like removing that nice looking heat pipe there, but for performance sake heh
 
Bbq said:
am I the only one who sees that thing as a Hydor?

I thought it was. That's why I commented it like I did before. :) I think it might be Hydor with another name? Like OEM:ed or something. :p Never use it anyways... Hydor, ewww. :C
 
WaterCooling newb alert:

here's a question for you guys. Would it be possible to have 2 separate loops share water?

schematic:

resevoir -> pump1 -> cpu -> rad1 -> pump2 -> vid card -> rad2 -> back to resevoir

overkill? is it better to just have one rad, one pump and cool in serial or in chain?
 
Ok I have this question, How many waterblocks can be added to the Koolance Exos-2 Lt?

I have the 4x motherboard case mod going, three of the motherboards will be water cooled with video, chipset, memory and cpu to each of them.
 
When you guys are leak testing your setups, do you actually put all the parts in and mount everything or do you just leave the parts in the case and then mount everything in the case after it's been proven to be leak free?

I only ask as I got the rest of my setup today. Swiftech Storm, DD Maze4 Low profile SLI kit, Swiftech Micro-res, tygon anti-kink tubing, MCP655...
 
Volkum said:
When you guys are leak testing your setups, do you actually put all the parts in and mount everything or do you just leave the parts in the case and then mount everything in the case after it's been proven to be leak free?

I only ask as I got the rest of my setup today. Swiftech Storm, DD Maze4 Low profile SLI kit, Swiftech Micro-res, tygon anti-kink tubing, MCP655...
search

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1037675&highlight=test+fit
 
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