Thermaltake Big water questions, can u help?

fenderltd

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - July 2007
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Don't hate... I picked the kit up at a nice price so I thought what the hell I would try it out for my first water cooled system. I have it installed, just curious what I can do help the temps? I have the rad mounted on the outside and the hoses are as short as they can be with no kinks. I know I need to trim the back of the case (lian li) has a 80mm so I am going to trim it with a dremel so the opening is bigger. Just curious if anyone else has this what tweaks they found to help there temps out. idle is about the same as my si-97 was... havent done a load test yet. Thanks in advance.
 
idle around 40 +/- 1-2 load 46 +/- 1-2

another thing once a load is on it, it will go to say 47-49 and a few seconds later down to 42 I am very new to water cooling is this normal? I am checking temps with abit's monitor, that is 1 +/- with MBM5
 
fenderltd said:
it will go to say 47-49 and a few seconds later down to 42 I am very new to water cooling is this normal? I am checking temps with abit's monitor, that is 1 +/- with MBM5
Depends on what the load is.

First thing to do to help temps is dremel that case. Having a 12cm pulling through an 8cm hole is going to have a huge effect on the rads ability to cool. Another thing you can always do is add a reservoir to the loop and add AS5.
 
yeah, plus the 8cm hole has their fan guard (cut in to the case) I might mount the rad on the inside and have the fan blowing out or should I have it on the back and the fan flipped sucking air out? It came with a fill bottle/res. they said you can use. Whats the proper cycling to add a res (diagram)

rad------pump-----cpu----rad
 
fenderltd said:
yeah, plus the 8cm hole has their fan guard (cut in to the case) I might mount the rad on the inside and have the fan blowing out or should I have it on the back and the fan flipped sucking air out? It came with a fill bottle/res. they said you can use. Whats the proper cycling to add a res (diagram)

rad------pump-----cpu----rad

My experience is it doesn't really matter either way (rad inside or out.) If you have the room, it's nice to have everything protected on the inside of the case. If it doesn't, it's nice that it can mount to the outside. If you have it on the oustide though, i would recomend finding some elbows so that you don't have to worry about the tubing kinking. Elbows kind of hurt the flow, but getting the tubing pushed into the wall and having it kink is worse. Performance wise, i doubt you'll see much of a difference on temps either way. Also, i like the little res that comes with the kit, though that's not what i use. you can keep the level about 3/4 full, have the top port be the inlet, and also use it as a flow indicator.

I have it, pump > cpu > rad > res.
 
i know sharka sells new barbs for the bigwater parts, if you were to use these you could upgrade your tubing to either 3/8" or 1/2". then you could get a stronger pump.

with the 1/4" tubing and weak pump that the bigwater kit comes with, its going to be difficult to get temps that are better than aircooling.
 
pigpen said:
Depends on what the load is.

First thing to do to help temps is dremel that case. Having a 12cm pulling through an 8cm hole is going to have a huge effect on the rads ability to cool. Another thing you can always do is add a reservoir to the loop and add AS5.

Resevoirs don't really add any cooling capacity, but they can make it more convenient for the user, in that they can go longer without adding fluid...

Cutting that 120mm hole is indeed a must, but if you really want an improvment in performance for cheap, try adding a second 120mm fan. This way you'll have one pushing air in, and another pulling the air out the back. This is called a push-pull setup, and can yield around a 10 to 15 percent improvment in heat dissipation (from what I've read).
 
I have a good 120 fan I can add. Explain though

| fan 120 blowing out< | RAD |120 fan blowing out< ?

I checked out sharka but I guess I know what I need to convert, but not really seeing it I dont think. If you got time could you put together links to the barbs, hose, locking nuts(compression nuts) and a pump? Thanks in advance as always!
 
fenderltd said:
I have a good 120 fan I can add. Explain though

| fan 120 blowing out< | RAD |120 fan blowing out< ?

I checked out sharka but I guess I know what I need to convert, but not really seeing it I dont think. If you got time could you put together links to the barbs, hose, locking nuts(compression nuts) and a pump? Thanks in advance as always!

Yeah, your illustration is about right, just like a radiator sandwich with 2 slices of fan. You just wanna make sure the fans are both moving air in the same direction (out of your case).
 
dewhite said:
Yeah, your illustration is about right, just like a radiator sandwich with 2 slices of fan. You just wanna make sure the fans are both moving air in the same direction (out of your case).


can you explain the logic behind this because i'm curious. How would two fans improve airflow? Or does this help in some way other than increasing air flow?
 
pigpen said:
can you explain the logic behind this because i'm curious. How would two fans improve airflow? Or does this help in some way other than increasing air flow?

It doesn't, but people think it does because it sounds good and it does have a nice look to it. ;) If you have two fans spinning under power with one on each side of a radiator the more powerful fan is not going to push through more air because it will be held back by the lesser fan. And if they are equal fans then it is a total waste of electricity. Just my opinion...YMMV.
 
that's what i would figure, but he said he see's a 10-15% decrease in temps, so i thought there was something i was missing.
 
so its offical it doesnt do a bit of good? the two fans?
 
You will get better performance having 2 of the same fans in a push-pull configuration. Overclockers.com has an excellent article detailing performance improvements.


LOL, just checked link above.
 
I just did push and pull. I honestly dont see a difference. I sure dont see 2-5 degreee difference. Maybe its just me :p
 
like the article says, you'll see a much bigger difference with densly packed radiator fins. But for the 4 bucks a fan is gonna cost, it can't hurt right. ;)

EDIT: I probably shouldn't say _can't_ hurt, but more likely that it won't hurt...
 
fenderltd said:
basically 41 idle 43- 45 load thats not too bad

Nope. Really to get a major upgrade past that you'll need to improve flow, I would think...
 
I think the first one the 1/4 to 3/8.

to improve flow is 3/8 enough, or should you go 1/2?
 
I think 3/8 would be fine but if you can you might as well go 1/2. Just my 2 cents.

BTW I just got this kit about a month ago and been having issues with it running about 145 degrees (Ferenheit of course) Idle with an ambiet of about 74. Havn't had much time to work on it the last couple of weeks, and I checked my temps today and I was running at 100 degrees. I didn't do anything to it. Weird. Maybe just needed some time for the artic silver to break in I don't know. Now I need to try and put it under load and see how it performs.
 
I didnt use as5 as I didnt feel like going and getting some, so for temp I used the ""white thermal paste"" Check for any kind of kinks if the hoses. these tubes bend very easy, esp. those coming out of the pump with the clip those tubes in their bend like crazy. Is the rad mounted inside or out side? if outside did you reverse the fan? and last could you post temps in C? its just more common for other to help ya! let me know, my kit is doing 39 idle 43-44 load. I need to get some as5 on it though and reduce it a few notches.
 
Well the temps are back up again. I will double check the tubing again. I have the radiator on the outside with the fan pulling through. I will probably reverse it and see how that goes.

So as of right now I am running at 64 idle. Yesterday withought doing anything to it it was running at 37-40 degrees idle. I am running BOINC though, but that shouldn't raise the temps that much. I havn't had much time to work on it do to work and my wife being out of town.
 
therapist said:
Well the temps are back up again. I will double check the tubing again. I have the radiator on the outside with the fan pulling through. I will probably reverse it and see how that goes.

So as of right now I am running at 64 idle. Yesterday withought doing anything to it it was running at 37-40 degrees idle. I am running BOINC though, but that shouldn't raise the temps that much. I havn't had much time to work on it do to work and my wife being out of town.

BOINC is putting your system at full load. You _will_ see a major difference in temp between idle and full load. Still though, 60ish degrees C is too high...
 
Why do you guys keep reporting that the Big Water is "worse than air cooling" whne every review I've seen of it shows it performing considerably better than high-end air cooling? It's not as powerful as a home built kit with 2 120mm radiators and a 300gph pump, but it does its job well, is more powerful than a big, loud air cooler, and is about silent. I don't see the problem...
 
therapist said:
Well the temps are back up again. I will double check the tubing again. I have the radiator on the outside with the fan pulling through. I will probably reverse it and see how that goes.

So as of right now I am running at 64 idle. Yesterday withought doing anything to it it was running at 37-40 degrees idle. I am running BOINC though, but that shouldn't raise the temps that much. I havn't had much time to work on it do to work and my wife being out of town.
if you are using the clip for socket A make sure it hasnt slid down any, insure its still where it needs to be!
 
Epicenter said:
Why do you guys keep reporting that the Big Water is "worse than air cooling" whne every review I've seen of it shows it performing considerably better than high-end air cooling? It's not as powerful as a home built kit with 2 120mm radiators and a 300gph pump, but it does its job well, is more powerful than a big, loud air cooler, and is about silent. I don't see the problem...

Unless I missed it, I don't think anyone in this thread, has said that...
 
What is need to change the Thermaltake Big Water kit from 1/4 to 3/8 tubing?
Parts list?
n00bie wc here.. :)
 
dewhite said:
Unless I missed it, I don't think anyone in this thread, has said that...

stuff like this.

with the 1/4" tubing and weak pump that the bigwater kit comes with, its going to be difficult to get temps that are better than aircooling.
 
Well went to work on my cooler today and noticed my pc was off. Rebooted it and it instantly alarmed and shut down. Pulled off the cover and looked at the pump and noticed it was not pumping.

Anybody recomend a small pump with 1/4 fittings as a replacement?
 
dont the xps run hotter anyways.here is a pic of my bigwater temp on full load is 20C.


this is what i did for a shroud,when starting up pump i lifted the pump above the other components,if that doesent work make sure the pump coolant level is above low level mark, the extra pressure the water makes should force water into pump.
 
therapist said:
Well went to work on my cooler today and noticed my pc was off. Rebooted it and it instantly alarmed and shut down. Pulled off the cover and looked at the pump and noticed it was not pumping.

Anybody recomend a small pump with 1/4 fittings as a replacement?

The Aqua Computer Timmer pump is quite small, silent and has decent enough flow for what you have in mind. You can get it by special order from Sharka Corp.
 
therapist said:
Does anyone know if these fittings will screw onto the bigwaters resevoir and or water block

The Big water uses 5/16" thread on both the rad and waterblock (i assume you meant rad and not res.) That's 5/16" measured with a ruler, i'm not sure how that equates with NTP, BPT, UNF. It's all kind of confusing to me.

If you're gonna make the switch just keep in mind that you'll need to upgrade the pump.
 
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