watercooled sg05

Yeah man if you dont mind, I think it would allow me to redirect some tubing, which would be great
 
cj3waker said:
thanks again jeremy I appreciate the offer, thats a pretty cool thing to do. and if you hadnt gone through so much to get the damn block working on your 460 Id say go for it.

FINALLLLYY got everything to fit, case work is done!! I might have to make a small cut to get the micro res to fit and im gonna have to cleanup and repaint the front panel but Ive got everything to fit in the case.
2drie86.jpg

ofzy4x.jpg
Click to expand...

quite amazed!
 
i finished everything and its pretty atrocious at the moment, cables going everywhere. just got the system up and running after leak testing for a while and im pleased to say idle temps rock. around 25C on the cores and gpu. my pump is making an awful whine though, and im pretty sure it is neither vibration nor air bubble related
 
no issues w/ clearance between the gpu waterblock and the side of the case?

awesome job, man!
 
yeah I had to make a cut in the case or it would interfere with the nozzle portion of the block
 
cj3waker said:
i finished everything and its pretty atrocious at the moment, cables going everywhere. just got the system up and running after leak testing for a while and im pleased to say idle temps rock. around 25C on the cores and gpu. my pump is making an awful whine though, and im pretty sure it is neither vibration nor air bubble related
Click to expand...

Yeah I got similar idle temps though I failed to get any meaningful load temps. I probably should of grabbed Jens dfi while I could, lol.

Typed on celly
 
the h55n is amazin man, dare I say better than the DFI? I wouldnt worry about swapping out if I were you
 
The reason is...

I now have the 450W (which has thinner guage cables than the 300W, IMO). I have a shuriken rev B. I have the twinfrozer installed.

Yet... when I run wPrime, the GPU utilization goes all the way down. Is it possible I'm bottlenecking Furmark!? I gotta test this out... brb

EDIT:
hmmmm.... it indeed is wPrime bottlenecking Furmark!!
 
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fuck man, me too. Im having a few weird issues, first, while running furmark my killawatt meter shows me pulling around 330w from the wall, however it constantly jumps down to around 250 and then back up. which doesnt seem right. And furmark crashes whenever I try to close it while under load. and the bottleneck. furmark runs at 99% gpu utilization, when i open prime, it drops to around 60%, and im also getting the chirping. i guess this unit really is complete crap. i guess we can RMA, hope the 1155 chips coming soon are incredibly power efficient, or maybe go for this psu http://compare.ebay.com/like/350427...fa37099&itemid=350427916270&ff4=263602_304662
 
I originally had DFI with one that I'm building now and I say H55N is better. i5 750 OC is limited to 3.4Ghz(unless you want to kill your board) where as I had to down clock mine to 3.6Ghz because I can't control temp not because of mobo.:D

cj3waker said:
the h55n is amazin man, dare I say better than the DFI? I wouldnt worry about swapping out if I were you
Click to expand...
 
Not trying to threadjack but check my build to check another SG06 with this mod.
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1469728

If it is 2", I think that person might have used Lian Li PSU extender where as I used NZXT. Everyone that I know who have done this mod mounted out side of the case and cut top cover but I mounted it inside of the case and didn't have to cut top cover. Just sharing info for people who wants to do this so you don't have to limit your parts because of PSU. :) I know I had hell of time finding mod info and come up with ideas for my SG06 when I started my build about 1year and 4 months ago.

Again, sorry OP. Not trying to threadjack but just trying to share info since mod info regarding SG06 is very limited.:)

jeremyshaw said:
I remember a guy on OCN in the beast mITX thread who had a full ATX PSU with a 2" protrusion out the back. I'll find it. It's what helped inspire my build. and I hope it can help yours, too :)






EDIT:
Ah, found it. (that was fast :p)

http://www.overclock.net/small-form...ose-beastly-matx-itx-rigs-56.html#post8951145
Click to expand...
 
pertinent info and other itx build are definitely not threadjacking! thanks for the info man. With the full loop im pressing for space hard and a full atx psu would make routing tubing almost impossible. So I think im just gonna roll with it for now, in the hopes that a better psu is released, or I can lower my power draw with sandy bridge
 
well I definitely have a bad pump, but even so im pleased with how the build has come along so far, cleaned it up again today, but the pump is still running externally, since I should be replacing it soon.

how it looks at the moment
2rrb513.jpg

14cgsjb.jpg


airflow to the board is somewhat unobstructed
2ywibmq.jpg


top views
ebbot2.jpg


Im thinking about swapping the inlet/outlet on the gpu block which should help tube routing, right now the gpu - cpu tube is resting against the psu
ort4yq.jpg

ht5ker.jpg


fc580 is wicked sick
97o9y9.jpg


and the girlfriends fat cat
23w9pib.jpg
 
Nice! I like the cat! :) :p


Also your awesoem cable management (for those who don't know, cable management in this case isn't easy in any stretch of the word).
 
Mmmmm, dirty fat pussy. So anyways... Very nice with the cable management this case is a PITA. I have a basic plan I just have been waiting for this weekend to sit down and finish mine.
 
I was going to to do a bunch of custom sleeving, but with this psu ill probably just hold off. but a few more clips and zipties might go a long way
I cant stress the system as Id like to but gaming temps barely break into the high 40s, which im pretty stoked with. add some anti kink coil and a new pump and ill consider it a success
 
wth... I should of chose a better rad, lol 40C is about... 20C lower than my load temps!!
 
yeah that sr1 is pretty RAD. oh hooooo anways, im using the 800rpm Scythe GTs as well, so there is definitely room for improvement, if I really wanted it
 
right... you and somebody else were the ones looking for the low RPM GTs when I was trying to offload my GTAP15 stash :p
 
Lol, I run them at 1300RPM (7V), less noisey than the PSU fan, or the stock 120mm golf fan, at those speeds, yet it pushs a lot more air :)
 
hmm, kinna makes we want to swap them out. but Id have to get a new front bezel
 
The build is awesome....but, my i5 750 idles at the same on the same case with only a corsair H50 and zero modding....

Maybe yours is even quieter?
 
got my replacement pump, and its just as loud. can anyone with mcp350s tell me if it is very audible? its by far the loudest part of my system, and quickly becomes unbearable without sound or headphones

Im gonna play around with some different ways of mounting it in hope of quieting it down, but it makes noise even when held in my hand outside the case. I currently have my whole case sitting on a foam pad, and that barely helps
 
iirc, you can undervolt these units safely? I'd check up on that, since I have little clue what I am talking about...
 
as far as I know the mcp350s have to run at a constant 12v. the 355 and 35x both are variable speed which is probably just voltage controlled. But I think the 350 can only be increased
 
drat... well, that's what I did to quiet the RASA450 (or was it 150?) pump I have. I ran it at 9V to get it within appectably low vibrations... (think 5usd pond pump :mad:), though AFAIK, the 355 is PWM? Or was that the 655? I dunno.
 
cj3waker said:
as far as I know the mcp350s have to run at a constant 12v. the 355 and 35x both are variable speed which is probably just voltage controlled. But I think the 350 can only be increased
Click to expand...

Swiftech's website says it can be undervolted.
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp350.asp
Operating voltage range 8 to 13.2 VDC
Minimum startup Voltage 9 VDC
Click to expand...

Is there a reason you have your loop going the way it is? If you reverse it, the CPU would get water before the GPU and the highest pressure water would hit the two blocks first. All you'd need to do is switch the CPU-out port with the Res-in port. So it'd be Pump>CPU>GPU>Rad>Res. Unless I'm looking at it wrong.

I had planned on making my own 180mm radiator for my build then decided it was too much work and just got a H70. This thread makes me want to make one again. I wish someone made a 180mm Rad... lol
 
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