WC Fluids

4

402blownstroker

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - Nov. 2012
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What are the type of fluids that be run in system; distilled water, water wetter, mix, etc.

Keith
 
402blownstroker said:
What are the type of fluids that be run in system; distilled water, water wetter, mix, etc.

Keith
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Distilled H20 and an anti-corrosion fuid.
 
I'll be using this

and before the panic striken start shrieking about "BUT IT SEPERATES AND GUNKS UP TEH PUMP!!!!!!!"

they reformulated to eliminate that problem ;)
 
BUT IT SEPERATES AND GUNKS UP TEH PUMP!!!!!!!


Had to. Anyways, the PC Ice should be good, but you'd get better performance with distilled water with some water wetter or anti-freeze. The best coolant is distilled water, but since algae sucks, we gotta make compromises.
 
I'm a big fan of a 10/90 mix of Zerex Racing Super Coolant and distilled water. Of course, in a few weeks, my loop with be 100% denatured alcohol...

 
How would you get Alge growth in distilled water? It's not open to the environment and the system is "water-tight" As a result of air still entering the system?
 
{NcsO}ReichstaG said:
How would you get Alge growth in distilled water? It's not open to the environment and the system is "water-tight" As a result of air still entering the system?
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unless your blocks and tubing is sterilized before filling, and after filling it will grow nasties
just use distilled water and a shot of one of these: antifreeze, alge inhibitor, listerine, windshield washer fluid, rubbing alcohol, hell you could use vodka.
 
Better safe than sorry :)


I used to run a mix with a massive amount of glycol. Something like 80%+. It was needed for the subzero temperatures :)
 
I'm running pure distilled water, before I filled the loop I cleaned everything and flushed everything with distilled water to get rid of impurities, no algie at all and it's crystal clear
 
I'm running PC ICE myself as well, and its been worth it. about a week afte leak testing i started leaking from the barbs on my resevoir, all over my hard drives. now MONTHS later the barbs on my apogee started to leak slowly down onto my video card. Due to this I will never use anything that obviously isnt non-conductive, people leak test for 24 hours, not months. I thought it was worth it.
 
arnemetis said:
I'm running PC ICE myself as well, and its been worth it. about a week afte leak testing i started leaking from the barbs on my resevoir, all over my hard drives. now MONTHS later the barbs on my apogee started to leak slowly down onto my video card. Due to this I will never use anything that obviously isnt non-conductive, people leak test for 24 hours, not months. I thought it was worth it.
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You wouldn't need to use non-conductive fluids if you did the install right the first time. QC is obviously an issue if you're springing leaks like that.
 
I cant really help it if its a manufacturer qc issue. instructions were to tighten the barbs but not 100% of the way. only when i tigethened the plastic barbs to the point they would not spin (using wrench) would there be no leaks. user error? partially yes, but i think that either it should of been stated in the instructions to tighten everything until it wont spin anymore or its a manufacturing problem. I shouldnt have to completely compress the o-rings to make a proper seal. I was worried tightening them to the point where i really needed the wrench (and it was slipping) would of cracked the resevoir or the top of my water block, both of which are plastic. the point is, noone is perfect. it was my first run at watercooling, so i anticipated something happening. ever heard of part failure before? no amount of careful preperation can make up for defective parts, and I knew with my luck I should take precautions.
 
Water Wetter for the WIN (FTW)
x1900xtxWC4.jpg

Water_Wetter.jpg


WATER WETTER & DISTILLED WATER FOR THE WIN!!!!
 
arnemetis said:
I cant really help it if its a manufacturer qc issue. instructions were to tighten the barbs but not 100% of the way. only when i tigethened the plastic barbs to the point they would not spin (using wrench) would there be no leaks. user error? partially yes, but i think that either it should of been stated in the instructions to tighten everything until it wont spin anymore or its a manufacturing problem. I shouldnt have to completely compress the o-rings to make a proper seal. I was worried tightening them to the point where i really needed the wrench (and it was slipping) would of cracked the resevoir or the top of my water block, both of which are plastic. the point is, noone is perfect. it was my first run at watercooling, so i anticipated something happening. ever heard of part failure before? no amount of careful preperation can make up for defective parts, and I knew with my luck I should take precautions.
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So none of your components were damaged even thought a leak sprung because of PC Ice? I thought even it was somewhat conductive...
 
a leak sprung because i didnt tighten the barbs down enough, apparently you need to tighten those suckers down to heart-attack levels, pc ice SAVED my components cuz even tho it leaked on my hard drives and video card while running, everything is perfectly fine. i know it is supposed to also be partially conductive according to some testing done, but it really doesnt take much juice to dimly light an led apparently, and not enough to damage any of the components. i do have a nice blue stain on the back of my 6800gt now :p
 
been using pc ice for 3 months now...

i think i might try distilled water+zerex racing coolant the next time around just for something different.
 
Both Zerex and Pentosin are excellent products.

Just make sure that when you do add the water to the loop that you had pre-mixed the water and the coolant. Also make sure that you have the right proportions.

Depending on the temperatures your planning to hit, Pentosin requires 50/50 for -30C. Not sure about Zerex, but you know what i'm getting at.
 
somehow i dont think he's gonna be hitting -30C with a watercooling loop... unless he plans on running a chiller, and thats a completely different story.

90/10 distilled and antifreeze (pentosin included) is what I run, and it works just dandy
 
Pentosin blue users

Have yuo noticed when your loop is all blue, look at your resevior with a flashlight. Dont it look greenish. Its weird i only see the green thing when i have a flashlight on it, That normail for pentosin ? It's not affecting any performance on anything. Im getting 28.5 C on full load and playing COD2 for an hour or so it bumps to 29.1 / 29.3.
 
Punx_Clever said:
somehow i dont think he's gonna be hitting -30C with a watercooling loop... unless he plans on running a chiller, and thats a completely different story.

90/10 distilled and antifreeze (pentosin included) is what I run, and it works just dandy
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you don't need a chiller to hit -30C .. you can have winter :D
 
i jsut set mine up guys. ive added distilled and anti-freeze . ive added quite a bit of antifreeze and yet my water color isnt quite to the antifreeze color yet.

would it do anything if i added more antifreeze? i just want a cool color but if it will hinder my cooling i can live.
 
I'm using MCT-5 right now but I plan on switching to distilled water and Pentosin whenever I work up the motivation to drain the system. That MCT-5 just didn't feel right....really thick and sticky. That can't be good for your components IMO.
 
i used MCT5 for a few months only to find that it left all kinds of white gunk in my blocks and tubing. Now im using Pentosin and distilled water and will never use anything else. Temps dropped 1-2C with the Pentosin mix over the MCT5 too. For the nooblets, non conductive fluid is a good thing to start out with as it gives them a segway into watercooling but leaves room for making beginner mistakes. When you get more comfortable with watercooling you may or may not realize that non conductive fluid is more of a hassle than anything and not necessary if you know what you are doing and take your time and do it right the first time.
 
where do you buy pentosin blue? i don't want to go to the volkswagen dealership and buy it.... long story involving the cashier cheating on her boyfriend with me.... it would be pretty awkward.
 
Supposedly the texture of MCT-5 is actually good for the pump since it acts as a lubricant. I've been using MCT-5 for some time now and have no complaints at all about it. There were reviews awhile back which showed MCT-5 outperforming distilled water + antifreeze solutions.
 
CoW]8(0) said:
Supposedly the texture of MCT-5 is actually good for the pump since it acts as a lubricant. I've been using MCT-5 for some time now and have no complaints at all about it. There were reviews awhile back which showed MCT-5 outperforming distilled water + antifreeze solutions.
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I have to wonder what the ratio of water to antifreeze they used was... Probably something like 50/50 :rolleyes:
 
eits said:
where do you buy pentosin blue? i don't want to go to the volkswagen dealership and buy it.... long story involving the cashier cheating on her boyfriend with me.... it would be pretty awkward.
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i couldnt help but laugh when i read this...
just go into the dealership and take her to the restroom and pork her again...awkwardness gone...
 
Talonz said:
MCT-5 is non-conductive.
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...
I know that, I just have a hugely hard time believing that MCT-5 outperformed a water / antifreeze mix unless there was a huge amount of antifreeze in it.
 
penguin said:
...
I know that, I just have a hugely hard time believing that MCT-5 outperformed a water / antifreeze mix unless there was a huge amount of antifreeze in it.
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Oops, sorry, I can't read :(
 
I recommend using a nonconductive coolant like PC Ice, MCT5/40 or Fluorinert. I've personally always used PC Ice and have had no problems. Further testament to it's value was when my DangerDen Bayres sprung a leak and hosed my system with coolant without damaging any components!
Had it been regular coolant $3000 would've gotten zapped. :eek:
 
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