Which power supply?

F

Firecrotch

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
140
Ok, im planning on bying a new power supply for my system. I have...

MSI k8n neo2 platinum
AMD-64 3500+
2x512 DDR400 OCZ gold
BFG 6800GT

Right now i have a no-name 420 watt PSU, but id like to do some overclocking, and just make my computer more quiet with more stability. Id also like to spend under $100. Any recomendations?

Ive heard these are good...though im not sure what to get.
OCZ Modstream (450) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104154

OCZ Powerstream (420) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104150

Im kinda leaning towards the modstream just becasue its a little cheaper ( at monarhcomputers its only 75 with free shipping) and because every fan in my system uses the same blue LED. But if the powerstream is that much better i will be glad to get it instead. any ideas would be nice. thanks
 
I would get the top one. Leave a little extra overhead with wattage as you add more to your rig, or more hungry powered components.
 
ModStream = bling!

PowerStream = Quality & lot more useful +12V amperage & 1% regulation & adjustable rails & a 5yr warranty. ;)
 
Some people like bling.

The Modstream is a very capable power supply. Just keep in mind that you can not make an apples to apples comparison because with the Powerstream you are paying for a slightly higher quality unit where the Modstream you're paying for modular cables, LED, etc.

Frankly, I'm getting a little tired of these threads....

"What shoud I get? A NeoPower or a TPII 500W"

If you HAVE TO ASK than obviously modular cables and what not are NOT important to you... therefore, why ask?

It's so FREAKING obvious to me. It must be a rhetorical question.

Then again, I'm a bit thin skinned with the rhetoric since my wife is barraging me with rhetorical questions about what we're going to put where in the kitchen while I'm trying to hook up a kitchen sink and a bunch of appliances only so I can rip them back out in three weeks when the new countertops come......
 
Well thanks for the replies guys. And jonnyGURU if your a "PSU Inquisitor", then what else would you expect? I know you could help with some of the other things like PSU failures and what not. but if your a PSU Inquisitor shouldnt you expect some of these noob questions from people like me? This is why i like forums. Thanks for the reply :)
 
Firecrotch said:
Well thanks for the replies guys. And jonnyGURU if your a "PSU Inquisitor", then what else would you expect? I know you could help with some of the other things like PSU failures and what not. but if your a PSU Inquisitor shouldnt you expect some of these noob questions from people like me? This is why i like forums. Thanks for the reply :)
Click to expand...

No. ;) But then again, I am VERY thin skinned right now with my whole kitchen remodeling. :D

Seriously, modular cables or not. THAT will answer your own question. ;)
 
Yeah, just think, this place would just be an encyclopedia if noobs did not ask questions. :eek:
 
:D

I'm still sticking to my guns on my response.

If you HAVE TO ASK a modular PSU versus a non-modular PSU, then modular isn't important to you.

I think the road block in my mind is I can't get around the fact that people don't expect to pay more for things like modular cables, LED fans, windows, etc. So if you take an $80 PSU, remove modular, remove LED fan, etc. you have a $60 PSU. Now from the same manufacturer, available from the same vendor, et al, you have a $70 PSU with no bling at all but better specs. I don't think the question of "which is better" needs to be asked. IMHO I really think it's like asking someone what their favorite color should be. :D
 
davidhammock200 said:
ModStream = bling!

PowerStream = Quality & lot more useful +12V amperage & 1% regulation & adjustable rails & a 5yr warranty. ;)
Click to expand...

the 1% regulation is "claimed" but not substantiated, they are Topower P6's made for OCZ and are listed as 3% by Topower
the real crossload chart for the now defunct 470 and the 520 being

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/powerful-psu_11.html

ocz1.gif

ocz2.gif


which just kicks ass over the Modstreams which look like this
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/atx-psu_11.html

ocz3.gif


to actually determine where your rig would fall in those charts youd need to workup your numbers > http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=844691
the "worse case senerio runtime draw" take the combined wattage for the +3.3V & +5V listed in the calculator which would be the vertical scale


then with the figure youve adjusted* for the +12V draw in amps convert it to watts
(amps X volts(in this case 12) = watts) and use that as your horizontal scale
that would be your "highpoint" on the scale, and then back down to some idle draw likely near or below 50\50
(* meaning you have reduced the amp draw of everything that spins to 1\4 of the value listed)

the Powerstreams are considered near perfect supplies
the Modstreams are merely "typical" and cover the likely area for your config and no more
failing to even meet "spec" and offering little backward compatibility to older specs that you might eventually want to power (P3 or AMD without a +12V mobo connector)

PS dont go crazy with the rail adjustment on the Powerstreams the LEDs arent a good indicator of the voltage
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article173-page4.html
For the 12V and 5V lines the adjustment range is up or down 10%, while for the 3.3V line, it is even bigger, ~15% up or down. The range of adjustment provided is quite large, probably too large for safety, in my opinion. Especially when voltage is set too high, the life of components can be seriously shortened. Also, trim pots change value with temperature and age.

But the LED indicators help to avoid problems. The voltage adjustment is made with a small screwdriver. A plastic sticker over the trim post must be removed first. When the voltage falls within the +,-5% range, the LED directly below the trim pot glows green. Above that, it glows red; below that, it glows yellow.

Tested against a fairly accurate multimeter, the LEDs generally glowed green within +,-5% of the target voltage. This seems too loose a tolerance. When the 12V LED is green it could be 11.4V or 12.6V. A 2% range for green would have been more useful, especially for the performance oriented user interested in such adjustments. I'd recommend using a multimeter at the terminals of an unused output connector to tweak the voltages instead. This should be done while the computer is running. Naturally, care must be taken to avoid shorts.
Click to expand...
use a multimeter to calibrate ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top