Why You Should Clean Used Heater Cores

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ikellensbro

[H]ard|Gawd
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Feb 14, 2004
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After leaving my loop sitting doing nothing for 3 weeks, I diecid to clean it out as part of my ammo box project that I'm currently working on. I'm still going to use the heater core, even if a couple specks of rust dripped out...

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Yes, that lovely brown coloring is rust particles that dripped down from the old heater core.

gunkpump.jpg

The pump got some nice dried chlorine powder residue from being submerged for so long. The rubber bands were cracked and quickly tossed in the trash can.

rusty.jpg

To show just how bad the rust residue was, here's a comparison with slightly faded tubing (the right side is foggy because I blew in it).

Yes, I did thoroughly flush out the heater core with a pressure hose before I even epoxied barbs onto it, but I will definately not use chlorine in my loop ever again (I think I saw a couple pieces of algae when I was dumping the water, so I dunno if chlorine works very well as a biocide). I didn't see any corrosion yet on my block or in the heater core, so at least I know that the heater core has no aluminum in it :p
 
A few drops of aquarium algae remover will do wonders as it is specifically targeted to that organism. I don't know what your financial resources are but you might consider taking it down to a radiator shop and ask them to clean if for you. :)
 
for a small heatercore, there are probably some thigns you could buy form a parts store to clean it yourself... I would check there before a radiator shop.
 
That's why I wouldn't even use a used heatercore to begin with :D Sometimes cleaning them with harsh chemicals can actually cause leaks...
 
I cleaned my heatercore with a mixture of distilled water and Simple Green. I put it in a bucket, submerged my pump in it and had it pump through the heatercore for a day. Worked VERY well.
 
I am really close to buying a core from a 1980 - 1982 Ford Courier with a 1/2" inlet and outlet (for some 3/8" tubing action with minimal fuss). Would attaching it to a garden hose and running it through for a 'while' work allright, or should I soak it instead, or do both?
 
I dont use used ones either, but it occurs to me that any radiator repair shop should have a "tank" of cleaning solution that would do the best job of cleaning that stuff out as its their main business. I would hope they would only charge you a couple of bucks to soak it overnight. Another idea would be to use radiator flush stuff you get at an auto parts store but thinned down a lot in a couple gallon plastic bucket, mix it with hot water and watch your eyes etc.

Kinda talking out my butt here :eek: , never tried it, but working off the idea that these methods/materials are specifically designed to do what you want.
 
I guess having water sitting in the heter core got the bits of rust out that flushing it out with a garden hose didn't get. I flushed it out again yesterday and messed around my using a pressure nozzle and making water shoot up 6 feet in the air out the other end :) San Diego finally had a year with more than 20" of rain, so I guess it was time for me play.

Back on topic, I really suggest you just buy a new heater core at your local auto parts store, and remeber that it doesn't have to be a Chevette or Bonneville core. There are so many different sizes that can fit however much space you have/want to use, and as we've seen from the PA160, a heater core/radiator can be effective bigger than a 120mm fan, but not in a 2x120mm size. Hope this helps anyone looking to save themselves some money/wants to diy.
 
Don't radiator flush. That stuff is meant to be pumped through the core, not used as a "dunk". And any pumps that we use will not be able to pump that stuff. Simple Green is the best solution.
 
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