XSPC Raystorm RX240 Extreme Kit Mini-Review

K1tty

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
1,961
Greetings guys and gals,

Over the weekend I changed over one of my desktops to the XSPC Raystorm RX240 Extreme kit (offered by FrozenCPU). Previously it was using a Corsair H100. With the H100 anything over 1.4v CPU-Core voltage resulted in temps exceeding 80c during stability testing. Unfortunately, my 2600k chip isn't that great of a performer and could "only" get to 4.6Ghz on a voltage of 1.4. Anything higher would require higher voltage and therefore better cooling.

Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to do a full step by step work log. However, I'll attempt to go backwards and show everything that needed to be done. Overall this didn't take much work and with the right case this is a very easy installation.


The system:

i7 2600K
Asus P8Z68-V Gen3
16GB (4x4) DDR3 1600 1.5v
M4 SSD
Kingwin LZP 1000
Corsair Carbide 500R


The case I'm using isn't exactly a large case. The H100 fit perfectly in the top bay and I'm sure Corsair designed it that way. Perhaps a slim, or maybe even a regular radiator would still fit up top, however the very large RX240 doesn't without some modification.

Fitting it inside the case isn't an option either as it's too thick and the motherboard interferes. The only options that came to mind (and on a Google search) were the following:

1. Radiator on top but exposed about 1" - fans inside and out (push/pull) - Minimal mods to the top of case needed

diagram1x.png


2. Radiator in front – Fans inside only (push) - Must cut out portion of bay drive enclosure

diagram2s.png


3. Radiator on bottom - Fans inside only (push) - Must cut out portion of case floor

diagram3.png


Since option 1 is the only that would allow a push/pull configuration and required less modification to the case I went with it.

The new watercooling kit:
XSPC Raystorm RX240 Extreme


photoipi.jpg


This kit differs from the cheaper Rasa kit in a couple ways:

-Pump Upgrade to the D5 (Alphacool was OOS, I went with Swiftech)
-CPU Block upgraded to the newer, better performing Raystorm
-Choice of tubing color (I chose white)
-Compression fittings instead of barbs (black)


This was the first time I used a Reservoir-Pump combination. Taking an extra piece essentially out of the loop makes for a much cleaner and easier install in a smaller case.

The top of the Corsair 500R has a removable piece that is thin plastic wrapped with a metal grille and a filter screen in between. I had removed the filter screen already since the H100 was exhausting air out of the top. In order to get the new radiator to fit I had to cut the center piece out of the plastic cover like so:

diagram4.png


There is only a small <1" space left on the front side of the top piece. I plan on covering this as well as the entire top piece in thin clear plexi that's been painted white on the inside. Additionally radiator fan upgrades will be made in the future and the two pull fans will be moved back to the front of the case.


dsc2218c.jpg


dsc2213o.jpg



Fans mounted on the inside

photowfy.jpg


Bay Res installed and Silver Kill Coil

photo1lhb.jpg




I expect to add a GTX 680 to the loop within the next month and another a couple months after that. I'm waiting in the Step Up queue for both :(

I intend to route the tubing from the radiator down to the video cards, then into another radiator and finally back into the res/pump.
As far as what type of radiator and where I'll locate it, that has yet to be decided. I have contemplated a matching 240, but I would have to cut the bottom of the bay drive enclosure out and possible lose what little I have left of my bay storage. This isn't a big deal, I wouldn't have any issues giving up my internal dvd drive.

diagram5.png


This wouldn't take much as far as routing based on the current configuration.
The drive bay on the bottom would have to be moved back. This would only require drilling a couple new holes for the screws to secure it.
It's actually been done by a few others here.

dsc2217q.jpg


dsc2216n.jpg


dsc2211f.jpg


dsc2209b.jpg


A side panel window mod is in the works as well :)



More to come soon!

...chose to play SWTOR last night instead of working on this :) Will put up some more after work.
 
Last edited:
This is the max I've been able to achieve 4.9Ghz.. I'm really tempted to get a 2700k or at least a different chip. Seems like I've been getting a lot of ornery chips lately. Even at 1.55 vcore I can't boot into windows at 5Ghz. If I back off vcore to 1.45 the temps drop a ton.

results1l.png
 
Last edited:
A better picture of the gap left in the top. Anyone know the best place to buy thin plexi? I could probably replicate this piece with plexi if it was thin enough.

photo1oyv.jpg


Bay res/pump combo

photo2ckr.jpg


photo3ted.jpg


CPU block

photo4xx.jpg
 
nice, is this an actual kit? or did you piece it together? Final cost ?
 
How's the temps vs the h100? Have you thought about going to a larger case to allow more cooling ability? 2 of those rads can probly handle cpu plus 2 cards, but more rad is always better :) Just a thought.
 
I was extremely tempted to pick up a NZXT Switch 810 on my way home Friday before putting this all together. But since I bought this case only a few months ago, and cases are a pain to sell, I resisted. With a little bit of modding I can fit another matching 240 rad, and if I absolutely had to I could fit a 120 where the back intake fan is. I am stuck now at #1 in the step up queue for my first 680.... so hopefully that will be soon. The 2nd may be many more months though.
 
The temps are significantly better than the H100. From what I've read the H100 is really about as good as high-end air cooling. I couldn't push much more than 1.42 vcore on the CPU and even at that the temps under load would reach 80c+. Now I can go all the way to 1.52 if need be and the load temps are in the low to mid 70c range. I've been able to get stable at 4.9Ghz, but wonder if running this cpu at 1.52v/4.9Ghz 24/7 is really needed or sustainable. For now I've backed down to 1.45v and 4.8Ghz and tightened up my ram timings to 1600 8/8/8/22/1T. I wish I had a better overclocking cpu. Seems like all I've used recently have been OC unfriendly. Oh well, maybe I'll be able to justify throwing in an IB chip once they're released.
 
Last edited:
Well this is what I'm going to stick with for now. 4900Ghz 100 bclk x 49 at 1.49v. I was able to get my successfully to 1600 8.8.8.22.1T at just 1.52v. Timings seem to help much more than speed, so I may drop down to 1333 and try tighter timings.

I ran the Very High IBT twice in a row (this was the 2nd run) and then the Maximum run once. Temperatures actually came down a bit (as did ambient temp as the evening progressed).
Temps are quite a bit lower during actual use (after 2+ hours of swtor temps never exceeded 70c). Also, everything is very dependent on ambient temps. This probably wouldn't be too noticeable but the weather here has been swinging pretty drastically. Last week it was in the 80's and then this morning it was in the low 40's Fahrenheit (CPU was a cool 25c at idle).

I can put up my bios settings if anyone wants to see as well.

Ambient temp was around 23c

results1l.png


I imagine another rad and AP-15 fans will help out temperatures quite a bit. Since it's apparently months before my 680's come in on Step-Up, my next step is to add the 2nd rad, gentle typhoon fans to both rads and place the current (outside mounted) pull fans back in the front of the case bringing air in.
 
Last edited:
FYI, if you're already removing the cpu heat as quickly as possible with your current setup, adding another rad will not really help temps much. It would allow you to run your fans slower and still get the same amount of cooling power. What it will help with most is when you add something else to the loop, like your future 680's. The ap-15 fans are fantastic, i love mine, they are much quieter than i expected for the air they can move.

BTW, i'll have a similar setup to you soon in terms of cpu hardware, i'm building a 2600k setup this week. I hope my cpu can get close to the 5ghz range as well. I went with the apogee HD though since i've got existing components and liked the metal hold down plate and option to do parallel runs off the cpu block.
 
Thanks for the info. I figured there had to be a point where the heat couldn't be moved any quicker. The fans that were supplied seem to be alright, but they're quite loud at full speed (which I'm stuck at currently because of no fan controller and they're not pwm apparently so I can't control them from the motherboard. I may do what another forum member did and modify the 500R's build in fan controller to accomodate the extra fans... but I'll likely get a fan controller when I order my ap-15s.

Good luck with your build! Hopefully you'll get a better chip than I have. Many 2600k chips can reach 5Ghz with under 1.5vcore.
 
This is roughly the lowest vcore this chip will stabilize at running 4.8Ghz. Just 100Mhz less but a lot less vcore! I wasn't previously able to get this running at 4.8Ghz and 1.42 vcore, but I have been messing around with the CPU PLL (at 1.9). Asus had recommended Auto.... but I don't that just isn't working for this chip above 4.6Ghz.

results2f.png
 
Finally now cleared to ship out one of my cards for the gtx 680 step-up! So hopefully in the next week or two I'll be able to add the card into the loop.

It looks like I'll be going with the EK Acetal + Electroless Nickel Plated block (unless I decide to spring for the EVGA wb instead) with matching XSPC 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD Low Profile Compression Fittings. Now, if I decide to stick with only one 680 would my current radiator be sufficient?

I removed the pull fans that were on top of the radiator and put them back in the front of the case bringing air in. Temps actually dropped slightly (within margin or error though). This weekend I'm starting on the window mod and some type of solution to cover the radiator on top so that it isn't just sticking out :)
 
I started the window mod. Haha, at first I thought crap I've messed up my case side panel. Initially I was going to only replace the black mesh piece with an acrylic sheet. However I decided to cut out nearly the entire side. This took forever with the dremel. The panel got scuffed up pretty good so I will have to repaint it. Hopefully I can match the white pretty easily, or it won't be that noticeable.

I was looking for the best place to get some neoprene trim and a cast acrylic sheet for the full panel window mod and came across McMaster-Carr. This is where most of the PC-mod stores get their stuff from... and holy crap they are near to me so I can pick this stuff up in person!

Neoprene Rubber Edge Trim 1/32" Opening, 1/4" Inside Depth

Scratch-Resistant Clear Cast Acrylic Sheet 1/16" Thick, 24" X 24"

I'll post up picks once everything is done. Hopefully it will turn out!
 
Last edited:
Finished the initial window mod. To make it look more professional I'll need to pick up some molding to put around the edges.

photogar.jpg


That being said ... I'm likely going to get a new case in the next couple months. I've been contemplating the following cases:

From the cheapest to the most expensive

Fractal Midi (smaller but RX240 supposedly fits up top)
NZXT Switch 810
Xigmatek Elysium
Corsair 800D
SilverStone TJ07
CM Cosmos II
CaseLabs M8

Not really sure what to get.... as for now I'm just chilling because I'm waiting for my 680's anyway XD

What do you all think?!
 
Last edited:
OK! By the end of the month I'll be moving my system over to a Switch 810 case, adding a EX420 radiator up top and sticking a GTX 680 into the loop.

Does anyone have suggestions for a 680 water block? I'm leaning toward the EVGA block and backplate at the moment.
 
Last edited:
OK! By the end of the month I'll be moving my system over to a Switch 810 case, adding a EX420 radiator up top and sticking a GTX 680 into the loop.

Does anyone have suggestions for a 680 water block? I'm leaning toward the EVGA block and backplate at the moment.

Shop for one that is compatible. Full-coverage blocks are only made for specific PCBs of cards, usually only reference PCBs. I don't see what specific PCB of 680 ya got off hand.
 
Oh, I guess that would help. It's the basic EVGA 680 02G-P4-2680-KR
 
Back
Top