DFI DK P35-T2RS

57C with the stock chipset cooling after 8 hours of quad prime Small FTT's.

430mhz on the bus at mid-high 1.3v's, on the northbridge and CPU VTT
 
That's pretty odd. I'm guessing they sold the entire first batch, and are waiting for DFI to pump out some more. :confused:

Pretty quick to be "deactivated" on newegg though.
 
just had to post again to say how much im still loving this board.

i got worried my ballistix tracers wouldnt boot up in it but they did.. at 1.95v.

havent needed to flash the bios either its been solid as a rock no problems at all.
 
TheInternet1980 said:
That's pretty odd. I'm guessing they sold the entire first batch, and are waiting for DFI to pump out some more. :confused:

Pretty quick to be "deactivated" on newegg though.
Click to expand...

It doesn't even show up on the Egg anymore... But I did notice something interested over @ www.motherboardpro.com

They have this listed for the P35-T2RS motherboard;

Please Note: This Product is for Pre-Order Only.
We expect to start fulfilling orders for this product on 2/20/08.
Click to expand...

And for the X38-T2R;

Please Note: This Product is for Pre-Order Only.
We expect to start fulfilling orders for this product on 2-21-2008.
Click to expand...

Hopefully these will both be available for actual ordering soon. I am very interested in this motherboard. Maybe even Fry's will start carrying them soon.

- Joey
 
Hey, does anyone have a picture of this board installed in their case with the all parts and pieces? I want to see what it looks like put together.

- Joey
 
My board might be hosed or I don't know the settings to use for ram and timings. I set the ram voltage to 2.2 from 1.95 per a previous post but still didn't work. I can't find where to set the ram timings for this ram at 4-4-4-12. The bios is really confusing and I've buit several other machines that had more clear meanings of the settings for the ram.

The CMOS will not clear no matter what I do and is the final indication that it's the board I think. I tried the 'soft' clear several times and both of the jumpers alone and both at the same time too.

On first boot it defaulted to 6x so 1.5mhz. I changed to 9X to 2.4 as it's rated and left everything else at auto.

On a clean instal of XP Pro, after it loads all the drivers in ram, it gets to the Loading Windows message and then gets the error 0X0000007B. I googled it to MS but it's little help.

I tried installing Windoz on two SATA drives and an then an IDE, all working in my current computer ( I build mine on a bench before installing in the case ). One of the SATA drives is right out of the package but I installed it on my current rig and dropped a file on it and opened it and it worked so that drive is fine. The WD SATA drives say not to jumper them. and gives no jumper settings on the label as other WD drives do. Tried moving the ram from yellow to orange slots too and using one stick in DIMM 1.

All the gear is new parts and all appear to be working fine. I reseated the CPU, video, ram, all that stuff.

The system is running on air right now with most of the items below on the bench.

specs when finally built:

Water Cooled
DFI LanParty DK P35-T2RS
Q6600 Go Core 2 Quad 2.4
Swiftech Appogee GT CPU block
EGVA 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3
Swiftech Stealth GPU block
Crucial Ballistix 4GB(2 x 2GB) DDR2 800
PC Power and Cooling S75QB EPS12V 750W
2x 250 WD SATA 16mb cashe
 
Go to the Genie bios, top right in bios, click that, go down 2 items, ie; dram timings, open that there are all the ram timings. The first 4 I believe are auto, then a gap, then 5/5/5/15. Use those settings to start out. Leave the rest on auto For Now. Hit escape, then go 1 down to voltages and open that. Whatever your ram is Specified to run at as far as voltage, set it to that, Not 2.2v as you don't need that much yet. Set the Northbridge voltage to 1.41v and if you are running default, leave the voltage for the cpu,(vid) alone. Hit escape to get out of there.

Now then,while still in the genie bios section, if you Do Not want to use the Power savings features of the chip, open the top heading and disable everythin But Execute Disable,( leave enabled), and Multiple core, leave that enabled as well. The other things, ie; Thermal management,etc are not really needed for Overclocking. Hit escape to get out of there, and while still in the genie bios, check your multiplier, and set it there. Set the ram speed there as well, I would suggest 266/667 to start out. Check the bus speed as well to what your default is. Escape out of there, save settings and reboot. Hopefully that helps, if not, repost and I should have my second cup of coffee by then :D

Larry
 
Im getting this board in next week. Anyone have any pics in the case with a Thermalright Ultra 120
 
Really leave the timings at 5-5-5-15? I got from somewhere, maybe the Crusial site, that they are made to run at stock at 4-4-4-12 as I mentioned above but I am a noob at Intel stuff too.

But whatever gets this thing to run. I've have it boxed up and sealed but if you think all this will make a difference in not getting the error I'll unpack it. Rather do that of course than send it back.

It's 12:30 PM here and I have to have the package to the UPS store by say 3:30 for it go out today. I rather it go out on Friday and travel the weekend than ship it Monday. It's going ground to CA and I live in NC so it'll take a damn week to get there. They'll return the new one they said on three day air. Go figure. Meantime the meter is running on the other parts if this one isn't the culprit. It might be the CPU but I doubt it. I guess Clubit where I got the CPU has a 30 day window too.

Thanks
 
This is an excellent board, i got my q6600 up to 4.0 stable on it, then i switched to the 790i....and it has been an uphill battle, but i think it is a great choice.
 
One thing that may have hosed this board is that the EGVA (sig) video card contacts one of the caps on this mobo, actually pushing right against it some. I didn't notice it until I had installed the card but the sharp corner of it had dented the top of the cap.

There is a circuit running around the edge of the card within 1/8th" or less near the sharp point. I think I can put a radius on that corner but I'll have to use a jewlers file to do it. That still won't eliminate the close contact problem though, just that it won't dent the cap next time if I'm careful.

I had to unseat the card and be really careful to try to keep it away from it but it contacts the cap no matter what I do. I did all of this out of the case but if it's in the case and I need to remove it, it may get damaged trying to get it back in. However, It's pretty sturdy and didn't move on the pins when I checked if it was loose by gently pushing on it with my finger.
 
skytripa said:
Im getting this board in next week. Anyone have any pics in the case with a Thermalright Ultra 120
Click to expand...

I'll post some pics tonight of it. I don't have an Ultra on it, got a Tuniq Tower and that is a close fit. I actually had to turn the tower 180 Degrees to get it to fit as it hit the passive cooler just above the CPU, I could have ground the clip nipple down which is what hit the cooler, but turning it so it vents upward towards the top fan I thought was a good idea.

Loving the board so far. Its running my E6750 at 3.2 right now and not even breaking a sweat. I was finally able to sit down and game on it, played STALKER for about 3 hours last night, chipset was hovering at the mid 50 range CPU was in the mid to high 30's. Idle is in the low 20's.
 
the northbridge gets really hot if you dont have a fan blowing on it and you're watercooling the cpu..... before when i had the intel stock cooling it was ok but now it hits in the 60's unless i have the 40mm fan blowin on it, now it sits about 50 when im ragging the machine. the mosfets dont really get hot much though.. maybe because the PSU fan is blowing onto them.

this board really is good as people make it out to be but it is somewhat cramped for things like massive video cards and big cpu coolers... shit even my apogee drive waterblock only fits one direction and even thats a tight fit.
 
Anyone know the difference between this board and the P35-T2RL besides the obvious paint job and some minor placement/spacing differences? Does the S overclock much better than the L? Anything else? I plan on buying one of these two, as I have been pleased with my LanParty Ultra-D and A64 3000+ for a little too long.
 
Guys,

I've been running my system for several weeks and suddenly yesterday when I booted up after I got home from work it ran Vista for about two minutes then it shutdown and restarted by it's self but didn't boot.

Then it wouldn't boot for a half hour or so. It would run and the HDD light would blink as if being accessed but the monitor LED stayed yellow so no video came up. I looked at the mobo and noticed that the yellow LED light on the bottom left next to the IDE slot was on while it wouldn't boot and is now constanty on. I kept turning the PSU off and unpluging the chord and pushing the start button to clear the capacitors about a dozen times and it finally booted up.

Iv'e never seen the yellow LED stay on while it was running until now. Does your LED stay on too?

Today the light is still on but the computer is running fine.

Thanks much!
 
Just got this board for my friend. I sped'd him out a new gamebox and decided on this one after hearing good things about it. I'm currently running a DFI mobo on my opteron gamebox so DFI has been good for me in the past. Hoping this will prove true once again.
 
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