Klipsch Promedia 5.1's - Amp repair

Well, here's my updated parts list for doing an AC/DC Converter repair or upgrade. I don't buy into the whole installing a fan inside the sub to cool it, I just go with high temperature parts and excessive power handling. If it fails again I replace the parts again. It lasted 4 years with the insufficient power handling Klipsch built it with so I'm not worried about the same stuff breaking again.

Replace --- Replaced with
R527 (4.7 ohm) --- CPF34R7000JKE14
R529 (5110 ohm) --- CMF605K1100FHEK
680 ohm (PCB position not labelled) --- RN70E6800FB14
MR7 (100k ohm) --- CPF2100K00BEB14
D5 and D6 (FR204) --- FR204-B
All three 22uF (50V) capacitors --- EEU-FC1J220 (63V caps because they don't have the 50V versions. Same size as 47uF caps, fits fine though.)
All three 47uF (50V) capacitors --- EEU-FC1H470
Q10 (2N5551) --- 2N5551RLRAG (also has properly spaced pins, unlike the original)

Total cost is around $15-$18 before shipping.

If you want to upgrade other parts of the amp I'm afraid I can't help you, but perhaps someone else can. This list was put together after hours and hours of searching for what parts people had used on their repairs (search failed), and then a while choosing these components on my own. I can attest that they work. In my earlier post mentioned the parts I put above and below the PCB to spread out the heat.

Since I've only worked on the AC/DC Converter that is the extent of my detailed knowledge, but that is also the highest failure area. The main points of failure from what I've read is the transistor Q10 and R527. I posted part numbers to replace both of those, but I also posted a number of nearby components that had either seen a lot of heat or could do for higher quality replacements (the original caps are terrible). I will eventually do my second amp and document it, but since it isn't broken anymore and I currently have nowhere to use it the motivation level is quite low.

I've posted some info here so people have an alternative to sending away their amp to Elliott or Klipsch for months at a time and paying a fairly large sum for the repair. In my search for information to repair my own amp I found that for the most part the people who know the most about repairing these are charging to do it and do not share their findings. That's a bit frustrating, but what can you do? However, some people will not be knowledgeable or curious enough to dig into these things on their own, and those people will pay to have the work done. Other people with some ability and interest will take the schematic and hopefully the little bit of info I have provided and make their own repairs. I started posting in this thread to give people, not just from this forums, but those searching around the net, something more complete to work from. Having a parts list makes the repairs a lot more approachable. It is extremely satisfying to take these apart, put them back together, and have them working again. I got major manly points with the girlfriend doing that too.
 
Last edited:
now thats exactly what I was looking for thanks for going through the trouble it is appreciated

im waiting on a spare sub im getting from ebay. i will make it work and let it heat up and use a temp probe to find hot spots and record my findings

well Ive done some testing and have spoken to Evan about these amps. he suggested replacing R1/R4 with 470 2w resistors and R7 with 100k 2w resistors both on back of board. as a must
and in my testing i have found R7 and R527 to be the 2 hottest spots on the board. now just to say this first I went overboard in upgrades on the ac/dc board and eventually will upgrade all boards for temp/efficiency/clarity i will also be upgrading the gauge of wires and replacing all interconnects with gold replacements. caps are all low noise audio replacements.as well as a new heat sink design but heres the list of components so far

project manager cart
daughter board
R1/R4 with 71-CPF2470R00FKE14
R7 with 71-CPF2-B-100K
Q3 with 512-MPSA92
R8 with 2f2DCT52R1001
R9 with 273-205K-RC
now for main board
DB1 with rs606M due to 200amp max surge as opposed to 150amp of original
C517/C518/C525 with 647-UKW2A470MPD
C519/C520/C532 with 647-UKW2A220MED
1000u 100v cap with 647-UKW2A102MHD
1000u 63v (couldnt go bigger due to space) with 647-UKW1J102MHD
R527 with 71-CPF3-J-4.7-E3
R529 with 273-5.11K-RC
(next to R529 unlabeled) with 71-RN70E6800F
D5/D6 with 583-FR204-B
Q510 with 863-2N5551RLRAG
Q501/Q502 with 512-IRF740B
D510 with 863-MUR1620CTG
D504 with 863-MUR1660CTG
U501 with 511-L7815CV
U502 with 511-L7915CV
R524 with 71-CCF02-J-47K

now I know most ppl wont do this much but this shall make for a virtually bulletproof setup
 
Last edited:
racerc2000 said:
now I know most ppl wont do this much but this shall make for a virtually bulletproof setup oh and while your at it....if you replace them or not remove the heatsinks and replace the thermal compound with arctic silver should give you better heat transfer than the thermal epoxy as you will be able to get a thinner layer
Click to expand...

I would be careful with AS. Its conductive. Not a big deal on a CPU since the lid isn't energized. However FETs quite often have backplates with a potential. If say some stray AS shorts them to ground you will melt some parts.
 
the fets in these 5.1s have the erm rubber sheet between the heatsink and fet but thanks for the info. before i install my heatsinks il pickup a diffrent thermal compound...any thoughts on the silicon and non silicon types?

lol i knew i shoulda went with the IRFS740B instead of the IRF740B IFRS has the metal plate encased but too bad the IFRS series is now obsolete :( it was the only that came in the TO-220F case i wonder if it had heat issues?
 
Last edited:
Panasonic FC caps like I listed are much better than the Nichicon KW caps you used, although a bit more expensive. The KW has higher ESR, lower heat tolerance, and lower endurance. Keep in mind that the AC/DC Converter is a power supply, so reliability is a major factor to consider. If you do some searching you will find that even though the Panasonic FC is not labeled as "audio" that many extreme audiophiles use them in their equipment for inputs/outputs. Even better are the Panasonic FM caps, though there is no 47uF size for 50V so I used the FC series instead. But like I said, it's a power supply. There is no direct audio output from it. The ones you used will work fine and are much better than the ones you replaced, but I don't mind spending a little extra for high quality capacitors and would recommend others do the same.

I can't comment much on the rest of your upgrade, but you went pretty nuts there replacing things that probably didn't need it. Hope you had fun though!
 
I've sent my amp in to Elliott twice, the first was in May of '08 which came back working, the second time was May of '09 with a similar failure mode but this time it smoked something on the board. I successfully contacted him once two months into the second repair with this reply:

"Hi, is almost done, I'll send it back this week and provide you with the tracking info after is shipped.
Cheers,
Elliott"

Subsequent inquiries have been without reply, no amp in sight. Elliott, please advise with status and possible date of return.
 
I received nearly the same reply from Elliott two weeks ago:

"Hi, OK I will send it... very soon.
Elliott"

Asked him for an update, no reply yet.

What's going on with my amp Elliott?

-John from Ohio/NYC
 
Ugh. The amp or subwoofer on my promedia ultras is starting to break. This is the 2nd year I have had the system in use. Considering the massive number of these things that have failed, I am wondering why there hasn't been a class action lawsuit against klipsch.

Elliot: If you don't mind me asking, how many have you repaired?
 
the reason there isnt a lawsuit is. if they break they get fixed by warranty. if they break after its your dime.

these amps were supposed to be cooled by the airflow of the subs. so if you tend to leave the system on idle or well i guess constant very high volume will kill it to but

leaving it to overheat at idle is where most of our problems come from as its the amp components high volume tends to kill the speakers

im sure we would all love a piece of klipsch but on speakers that were last produced in what 2003? i dont see a lawsuit happening.

i was happy btw my 5.1 ultras had a good run. alil service and they are back . got them from my brother when they were 2 years old after his kids broke the controller. bought a new one and havent had an issue till now and its been like 5-6 years atleast
 
Auraka said:
I've sent my amp in to Elliott twice, the first was in May of '08 which came back working, the second time was May of '09 with a similar failure mode but this time it smoked something on the board. I successfully contacted him once two months into the second repair with this reply:

"Hi, is almost done, I'll send it back this week and provide you with the tracking info after is shipped.
Cheers,
Elliott"

Subsequent inquiries have been without reply, no amp in sight. Elliott, please advise with status and possible date of return.
Click to expand...

ruderner said:
I received nearly the same reply from Elliott two weeks ago:

"Hi, OK I will send it... very soon.
Elliott"

Asked him for an update, no reply yet.

What's going on with my amp Elliott?

-John from Ohio/NYC
Click to expand...



Hi, both of your amps are ready and I have sent updates to your e-mails.
Cheers,
Elliott
 
I've sent my PM5.1U's in twice now for amp problems and now they are buzzing very loudly when turned on. Ironically enough, the buzzing level goes down when the volume is turned up.

I contacted Klipsch support and since my speakers are out of warranty I get to pay the $125.
They said that the AMP was likely failing and causing the buzzing.

I usually leave them turned on and the volume up because I've been using them as my home theater speakers with the creative DTS-1000 for the past 5 years. I didn't think that they would be generating a ton of heat by simply being turned on and not being used. Guess I'll have to figure out a new setup if that is the case.

My question for you guys is, Is this buzzing something that I could possibly fix myself with some of the parts listed above or is it better to send it in to Klipsch and pay the $125?

Any idea on what the problem might be? I've checked for electrical interference and there isn't much. It's been plugged in the same outlet with the same peripherals in a surge protector for the past 2 years.
 
I spoke with Elliott tonight. He said my amp was shipped at the end of August... so looks like problem is with Fedex.

Thanks Elliott.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I'll check with fedex and figure out what happened and I'll call you back soon.

Elliott
 
Last edited:
Gibbsman said:
My question for you guys is, Is this buzzing something that I could possibly fix myself with some of the parts listed above or is it better to send it in to Klipsch and pay the $125?
Click to expand...

Certainly there is a possibility that the parts listed in this thread will fix your amp. However it could also be that one of the larger capacitors has failed, or that something not related to the AC/DC converter has gone out. Does the buzzing occur when there is no audio source plugged in? Does it come from all channels? If both are the case it could just be the AC/DC converter which is a pretty simple fix with some common desoldering/soldering tools. If I were you I would pull the amp out of the sub and take a look at the the components on it, especially the AC/DC board, and carefully inspect the capacitors for any leakage or bulging. You will probably also notice some burned looking resistors that you will want to replace too.
 
I have a ProMedia Ultra Sub/amp and control pod for sale............see FS/FT section.

Working perfectly.:D
 
FedEx delivered my amp today, works great. Elliott replaced the power supply which cost a little extra plus shipping. No word on why the delay, I'm just happy to have the thing back working.

Thanks Elliott!
 
Sysjack said:
Certainly there is a possibility that the parts listed in this thread will fix your amp. However it could also be that one of the larger capacitors has failed, or that something not related to the AC/DC converter has gone out. Does the buzzing occur when there is no audio source plugged in? Does it come from all channels? If both are the case it could just be the AC/DC converter which is a pretty simple fix with some common desoldering/soldering tools. If I were you I would pull the amp out of the sub and take a look at the the components on it, especially the AC/DC board, and carefully inspect the capacitors for any leakage or bulging. You will probably also notice some burned looking resistors that you will want to replace too.
Click to expand...

Hey Sysjack, thanks for the reply.
You are correct, the buzzing occurs when no audio sources are plugged in. It also comes out of all channels.

Sorry for my ignorance....Is the AC/DC converter capacitors, etc included in the list of things you replaced above? I'm not terribly great with the soldering iron, but I have friends who are good and can do it for me as long as I can get them the right things.

I'll pull my amp out tonight and take a look at it...
 
I replaced the smaller ones, which you'll see when you look at it. The larger ones are glued down and I didn't think mine were bad so I didn't bother trying to take them off. Swapping out the components I listed may not fix your problem but it is a good starting point.

I will warn you that even after replacing these parts there is a chance you will need to send it away for repair anyway unless you or a friend have experience and ability in diagnosing electronics issues. There are a LOT of things that can break, but hopefully it's just the usual suspects here.
 
I bought an Ultra 5.1 set back around the time they first came out, late 2003 I believe. They worked great until some point in 2008. The speakers STILL work, the problem is not that they do not turn on. The problem is that, at turn on, there is a high chance all 5 speakers will emit a high pitched squealing/buzzing sound. If I play music, it will usually go away within 2-5 minutes. Music sounds fine with the occasional pop or crackle. It will make the noise with or without the soundcard plugged in, so I know it is the speakers.

As for fault testing, I took it to a friends, and tested the main fault areas you guys have talked about. R527 tested fine, R7 tested fine, and am pretty sure many others tested fine as well. I can't find anything on any board that looks like it has burst or failed, and I do not see any burn marks anywhere. The fuse tested to be fine. MOV1 I tried testing, and it read around 150-200 I believe? I am pretty sure the unit hasn't suffered any surges, but I could be wrong.

I was playing some games today, and the sound cut out and the speakers started buzzing heavily from all channels. Eventually it went away. Later, I put my head near the amp itself, and it sounded like there was a whine coming from inside there, even with no audio being fed to it.

It would be really great if I could get these speakers working without all the annoying sounds. Anyone here have any ideas what it could be? I would rather not send these off.
 
If MOV1 was bad then the fuse would be blown. The ohm reading is due to the other components in the circuit which complete the loop and I hadn't considered the last time I posted about it. A MOV by itself will read open loop to an ohm meter if it's good (skin contact on both leads will give some reading other than OL). The symptom of a bad MOV is blown fuse and no power.

Of the resistors you checked, R527 would prevent any speaker output if it were fried. I don't know what the symptom of a failed MR7 is since I did not have that issue, but it's probably similar. I don't know what the failure mode of the other resistors is either.

Now, if we were to assume the problem is on the AC/DC board I would be replacing capacitors and at least Q10. Usually when Q10 goes completely you end up with no power but the fact that you get working sound after the amp has time to warm up pushes my instincts towards temperature sensitive components like capacitors and transistors. Could also be the FETs. I would look really closely at the large capacitors for bulging or leakage too. I personally can't point you in any direction with confidence because I have not repaired this type of failure. The problem could be on one of the signal processing boards rather than the power supply, and that would complicate matters significantly.

If I were troubleshooting this problem on my own amp I would be looking for any heat damage I could find, test everything I could get a probe on, and replace things until I got sick of screwing with it or fixed it. I would start with the stuff I listed but that is by no means guaranteed (or really expected) to fix your particular issue.
 
OK so I was finally able to remove the amp from the subwoofer box in a way where I could test it while the unit was powered on. As expected, REEEEEEEEE sound coming from all channels. However, I also heard it coming from... one of the BASH HC1011 chips. I wiggled the 1 chip around a bit, and the noise from both all 5 speakers and the unit itself stopped, and sound quality was back to full.

So now I know exactly what to either resolder, or probably replace one or both of the BASH chips. Hopefully this is helpful to someone here. If you are getting really high pitched buzzing/squealing from some/all channels... and/or the amp itself... try removing the amp from the sub in a way you can test it while out, and wiggle the BASH chips around. (Please be careful, don't touch ANYTHING but the very top of the BASH chip.)

Thanks Sysjack and others in this thread, for helping me diagnose the problems with these.
 
Sorry I couldn't be much help. As I said my experience is strictly limited to the AC/DC Converter and Line Filter boards. While you're in there fixing it I would definitely recommend replacing any discolored resistors and save yourself some trouble later on. My PMU amp isn't as old as yours and R527 died, although I do leave my speakers on nearly all the time.

I'm eager to hear about whether you are able to resolder the chips or if you end up having to buy new ones. I was afraid it might be something like the BASH module because they are somewhat prone to failure but also have a reputation for being expensive and sometimes difficult to find. Thanks for expanding the knowledge base here and good luck with your repair!
 
Hey SysJack

I pulled out the amp yesterday and took a look at it. I couldn't really see any burned marks on any of the resistors, etc. There were a couple with some white residue on them, but when I wiped that off, it didn't look like any bursting or burning was there. I don't own a meter to check them individually so I'm not sure what result I would have gotten with that.

Rather than chance doing it myself, I'm just going to send it to Elliot to repair and get the buzzing fixed and get the other upgrades he performs done.

Hopefully it will be more resistant to failure than with the Klipsch repairs.

Thanks for your help and input!
 
Gibbsman, sounds like you suffer the same problem I do. Betting it is the BASH HC1011 chip(s). Any chance you could take the amp out, and wiggle one/both of them? It was easy to figure out on mine, the chip ITSELF was making a loud high pitched whine.

For others that have the buzzing/squealing problems... if you are able to narrow it down to your BASH chips also, here is some helpful information for you below.

Infinity
Phone: 516-255-4525
Have heard the chips are roughly $27 shipped each? Haven't called yet personally.

Harman Audio
Phone: 516-682-3672

http://www.encompassparts.com/products/?HC1011

Those are the only 3 I know for now, will add more if/when I find them.
 
Last edited:
Sysjack said:
Check MOV1 with an ohmmeter. It is very close to the fuse, it looks like a blue disc capacitor (but it isn't!). If it reads under 1k or so you need to replace it, which is something I talked about a few posts up. If it reads very high then something else is at fault and I can't really help you.

The MOV I used to replace mine was this one.
Click to expand...

Yep, right on. The MOV1 definitely read low resistance, though really, I didn't even need to bother checking, as there is only half of it there.. the other half is a charred mess that almost burned completely through the green cable from the power... I ordered and received the part you listed (actually got 4 of them, just in case). I keep trying to figure out how to get to the back of that board without taking other boards off of it, but they are all soldered together? Well, not all, but the individual channel boards to the main one are.

What is the easiest way to put the new MOV1 in? Also, does polarity matter?
Thanks!
RMSe17
 
one of the weirdest things i have found out is.....well supposedly the amp is stable to 4 ohm going by the rear panel stating 4ohm min by the speaker connections.....

the factory satellites are setup to be 8 ohm which is really no big deal there just alil under powered I have a feeling this is due to the heat issue but the sub is what is really odd.....

as all 6 channels are identical (circuit wise) the only difference is sats are fed 56v and sub fed 85v which would be normal the wattage is supposed to be 70X5 150X1 or so ive read somewhere another place listed 470w rms....70X5 120X1 so unless it was tested who knows 70X5 could be at 4ohms for all we know and actually be 35w for our 8ohm speakers but....

the part I found odd was....the voltage for the sub channel was bumped up for more wattage we would assume. now you have 2 8" subs some would assume wire the Speakers in Parallel as you take 2 8ohm speakers wire in parallel to make a 4 ohm circuit but.....

these were wired in series why on earth would you wire subs for 16ohm load....you could have just run all amps at 56v and tossed in 2 4ohm subs in series for the same wattage.


oh and about the mov1. what I did was remove the entire channel cluster. you can reach the mov1 from the bottom when removed. just make sure your careful and label where all leads go.
 
Last edited:
Apparently the parts lists above got popular, the replacement for R527 (CPF34R7000JKE14) is out of stock at mouser until the end of Nov.
 
Wow long thread! I have a love story regarding Klipsch PC speakers too - I got 2 Promedia 2.1, and love them to death. They are about a couple years old, and they still work. One had the amp died once, Klipsch replaced under warranty. They both have a strange problem of the left speaker being lower in volume than the right when you lower the overall volume near silent.

Anyways, I won a 7.1 reciever this one time, and while it was an awesome freebie, I didn't have much for decent speakers. So I trolled through Klipsch's site and found they sold replacement parts. They were selling the satalite speakers for the ProMedia 5.1, as well as the center channel, for about $20 each! It was way under budget for speakers, that I bought a Klipsch Sub-10 at one of those Circuit City closeouts, and was very impressed with the sound quality.

I find that the ProMedia 5.1 satallite speakers are almost like their Quintet IIIs, but obviously made cheaper.
 
RMSe17 said:
What is the easiest way to put the new MOV1 in? Also, does polarity matter?
Click to expand...

I cheated and just clipped off my burned out MOV1 and wrapped and soldered the leads of the new one to the leads of the old one. I definitely did not feel like going to all that trouble. I wasn't sure if the MOV was going to fix it so I just stuck it in there. As for polarity, I don't believe it matters. I put the new one in the same direction as the old one (part number facing ACin) just so I could read the part number later on if I needed to.

I would like to reiterate something I said a few days ago that what I said about reading resistance on it before was wrong. It will read around 150-200 according to Big[H] and that is because of the other components in the circuit. If you measure one by itself you'll see that they are completely open loop to the low voltage of an ohm meter. The one I had burn out read around 40 ohms after removing it from the board so if there were no outward signs of damage (which seems like it would be impossible the way these things pop after an overcurrent) you might be able to tell a bad one with an ohm reading under 100.
 
e_lectro said:
Apparently the parts lists above got popular, the replacement for R527 (CPF34R7000JKE14) is out of stock at mouser until the end of Nov.
Click to expand...

If you don't feel like waiting, I used MOX2C4R7J in my first repair and it has been fine. Not as durable as mil-spec but still pretty good. I expect it to last a good long while. It is much larger than the one I replaced for sure.
 
Last edited:
Big[H];1034707811 said:
I also heard it coming from... one of the BASH HC1011 chips. I wiggled the 1 chip around a bit, and the noise from both all 5 speakers and the unit itself stopped, and sound quality was back to full.
Click to expand...

Just touch each lead with a soldering iron until it begins to melt then let it cool back off. Should do the trick.

If you dont have an iron or dont trust your skill you could try the old oven trick. The instructions of video card baking should do the trick. Just remove the preamp board from the rest of the unit.

Either way your BASH module is probably fine and does not need to be replaced, just reworked.
 
Hello all. I've got a dead Klipsch Promedia 5.1 as well. This is actually the second one that failed. The first was replaced by Klipsch under warranty. Now no warranty. Anyway, I opened it up and found that the fuse was blown along with one of the MOSFETs on the PSU. I ordered the project list that racerc2000 had posted from Mouser. I replaced the two MOSFETS (Q501 and Q502) along with a few resistors that looked fried on the adjacent daughter card next to them...think it was R1, R4, R7, and DB1. Everything looked good...plugged it back in with a new fuse and sure enough the lights flickered and the daughter card burned up somewhere again along with the disk cap next to it. There's obviously still something wrong. Guess I should have replaced the entire list but I didn't have the time and everything else actually looked good.

Anyway, I contacted Elliot for having it repaired. From what I've read, he's a great guy. However, I'm not sure if I want to put another $100 back into this thing and I really don't have the time to troubleshoot and replace everything. I was wondering if anyone might possibly have a burned up unit with a good working power supply board available? Or can anyone rebuild the PSU for me at a reasonable cost?

I was hoping to add this to the living room TV set up and replace the ancient KLH 10" and dog JBLs that's there now. I've actually got the Promedia satellites wired now and they sound really good. Much better than the higher priced JBLs. However, I may need to upgrade to the Quintets at some point for a little fuller sound in case anyone wants to get rid of theirs as well. Anyway, any information would be great.

Thanks guys.
Robert
 
racerc2000 said:
one of the weirdest things i have found out is.....well supposedly the amp is stable to 4 ohm going by the rear panel stating 4ohm min by the speaker connections.....

the factory satellites are setup to be 8 ohm which is really no big deal there just alil under powered I have a feeling this is due to the heat issue but the sub is what is really odd.....

as all 6 channels are identical (circuit wise) the only difference is sats are fed 56v and sub fed 85v which would be normal the wattage is supposed to be 70X5 150X1 or so ive read somewhere another place listed 470w rms....70X5 120X1 so unless it was tested who knows 70X5 could be at 4ohms for all we know and actually be 35w for our 8ohm speakers but....

the part I found odd was....the voltage for the sub channel was bumped up for more wattage we would assume. now you have 2 8" subs some would assume wire the Speakers in Parallel as you take 2 8ohm speakers wire in parallel to make a 4 ohm circuit but.....

these were wired in series why on earth would you wire subs for 16ohm load....you could have just run all amps at 56v and tossed in 2 4ohm subs in series for the same wattage.
Click to expand...
Center and surrounds are supposed to be 6ohm as told to me by a Klipsch service rep (aka I could find no documentation of this), no clue on the subs but I found it odd they were in series also. I researched the ohm rating in regards to selecting an appropriate 5.1 receiver to take the amps place.
 
Elliott, You gave had my amp since the end of July. You have not responded to any of my emails. What is the status of my repair?

Thanks,
Dave in Colorado
 
ecmaster76, I plan to do that pretty soon, most likely this weekend. I am thinking it could be a soldering issue, but why would the actual chip itself squeal? Leads me to think the chip itself has some damage. Only 1 of the 2 chips does it. Do you guys know what each does? Probably one for the satellites, one for the sub. I will get back to you guys when I have more information. Good luck to all of you.

Edit: Is there any way to test the BASH chips themselves, maybe through the legs or something? I know the potted stuff prevents normal testing. Maybe I could see if the squealing one actually differs from the other in voltage/resistance/whatever. If they both test the same, probably just bad soldering. Let me know if any of you have a way of testing them, or know what values they should be or anything else you can think up. Thanks!

Edit2: Pulled the board once more. It is the H2 chip, right beside the SAT- and SAT+ cables, so I am guessing that is why only the satellites get the noise and not the subs. H1 chip is, as far as I can tell, fine. Don't know of a way to test otherwise.
 
Last edited:
If the noise stops when you wiggle the board its definitely an issue with the solder. The extra resistance of the bad joint can throw off the tuning of the circuit and make caps whine.

Dont worry about testing it. Without a proper spec sheet for the BASH daughter board, removing it and then hooking it up to a fair amount of expensive equipment you wont be able to tell too much. You already know it more or less works. Testing it might damage it.
 
Got it resoldered yesterday. It didn't fix the issue. Today it is back to squealing and cutting out. Guess I will order a new BASH chip whenever I get the chance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top