MSI P6N SLI-FI / Platinum (650i) Thread

Has anybody flashed the p6n sli-fi from DOS, just spent the best part of a few hrs trying to flash it, ended up using the live update tool, I never use them kind of apps.

Boot to dos

Ran afud408.exe gave a whole load of options, I pressed p for program bios image file

Tried to run A7350NMS.210, bad/invalid command

I then tried to copy A:\AFUD408.EXE C:\ no drive error, is this because c: is sata

Could somebody be kind enough to give me the exact dos flashing procedure, thanks
 
Hey guys,

I've been reading through the thread here and noticed that people have had problem mounting the ZALMAN 9700 LED CPU cooler. I was able to mount this on FI without any problems.

I was wondering what north bridge cooler people have been using? I am a bit afraid to kick up the volts on the NB until I get something on it other than that heat sync. Any suggestions? that 9700 is rather large and I was wondering if anyone else mounted a 9700 and what NB cooler they are using.

I will report back on OC, but I actually just had to RMA the board because it started freezing on the BIOS startup screen before I even started to OC the board.

BTW: Awesome thread :) I have read through page 35. Back on page 25 someone said they clocked a E6400 to 3.4GHZ!!! Wow.. anyone else with an E6400 get it up to that speed?
 
Without worrying about the CPU, how high can the chipset go on stock voltage, stock cooler (on the NON PLATINUM BOARD) without worrying about chipset burnout? I'm running 1480 FSB and I'm affraid to go higher, is this a logical fear? lol
 
Just took a look at the FTP site and saw the 2.24 BIOS for the FI and 1.34 for the Platinum, seems to allow me to overclock my memory a bit more. Your mileage may vary. If you do try it let us know how it goes. :)


ftp.msi.com.tw/bios/7350 login: jerryuser password: msiuser
 
Max Tractor said:
Has anybody flashed the p6n sli-fi from DOS, just spent the best part of a few hrs trying to flash it, ended up using the live update tool, I never use them kind of apps.

Boot to dos

Ran afud408.exe gave a whole load of options, I pressed p for program bios image file

Tried to run A7350NMS.210, bad/invalid command

I then tried to copy A:\AFUD408.EXE C:\ no drive error, is this because c: is sata

Could somebody be kind enough to give me the exact dos flashing procedure, thanks
Click to expand...

copy both the a7350nms.210 file and afud408.exe file onto a floppy. start in DOS mode using a win98 boot disk or an ms-dos boot disk that would create a virtual c: drive for u.(google this step if u dont know how to make one of these boot disks) then proceed to copy both files(afud and a7350) onto the virtual c drive. finally run the command " C:\afud408 a7350nms.210 " (make sure theres a space between the afud408 and file name) and sit and enjoy. when its done its done. reboot and u might need to reconfigure some settings depending on ur preferences in the BIOS.
 
wanna-be buddha said:
Zcubed and Bio-Hazard,
Which setting are you guys referring to?
Click to expand...

umm bio-hazard might be right im very far from my system right now so i have no way to check myself but u might be able to change the mem voltage by going to its setting pressing page up or page down. if not then go to the 'system clock mode' setting and change it to 'manual' then go down to the mem voltage setting and press page up or page down to change the mem voltage. try what bio-hazard has said first.
 
dude_500 said:
Without worrying about the CPU, how high can the chipset go on stock voltage, stock cooler (on the NON PLATINUM BOARD) without worrying about chipset burnout? I'm running 1480 FSB and I'm affraid to go higher, is this a logical fear? lol
Click to expand...

ive heard this chipset hitting 1700fsb and im running it at 1500 with 1.35v. it runs 1066 at stock voltage as far as i know. i increased the voltage at 1333 for stability reasons. didnt overclock in steps. i just went 800,1066,1333,1500 and now im stuck at 1500 stable, cant even push it 20fsb more though i think mine is more of a cpu issue. as far as temps go make sure theres some form of fan on ur NB(i was cheap and put a green LED 80mm fan on top of mine after pulling off that ridiculous blue cover on the heatsink). and dont worry about it dying as long as ur not running it at like 1.45v or 1.5v continuously. if u want to keep the heatsink stock then i wouldnt recommend anything over 1.35v. but keep pushing the fsb up till u hit a wall and then back it down a bit from there for stability. ur fear is only logical if u overvolt the chipset too much which does kill ur chipset faster over time.
 
I am running `1.45V to my Northbridge in order to keep my o/c rock solid stable, but I have been worrying about how hot the stock copper heatsink is getting. I ordered a low speed 50mm Evercool fan that I am going to modify to work with the stock mounting bracket to attempt to cool it down. Do you guys think that 1.45V for 24/7 use is too much? I have no way of monitoring the Northbridge temps, does anyone know a program that will? If you replace the NB heatsink, what do you do to cool the SB and the PCMs that are currently cooled by the all in one cooler?
 
ccityinstaller said:
I am running `1.45V to my Northbridge in order to keep my o/c rock solid stable, but I have been worrying about how hot the stock copper heatsink is getting. I ordered a low speed 50mm Evercool fan that I am going to modify to work with the stock mounting bracket to attempt to cool it down. Do you guys think that 1.45V for 24/7 use is too much? I have no way of monitoring the Northbridge temps, does anyone know a program that will? If you replace the NB heatsink, what do you do to cool the SB and the PCMs that are currently cooled by the all in one cooler?
Click to expand...

I've been running my NB at 1.5v since the day I got the board some 2 months ago without issue, but I am using the fan MSI included to cool things down.

The answer to your second question is self evident; If you remove the heatpipe cooler then you will need to place a custom cooler onto the SB and mosfet heatsinks onto the PCMs.
 
It's nice to have mosfet heatsinks in place, but not really required..................:eek: The FI board doesn't come with any installed and the board OC's just fine, you should ensure that you have proper airflow throughout your case though just to be safe (you should do this in every situation anyways). If you pull the mosfet heatsinks, you'll more than likely find that they are making pretty poor contact anyhow.
 
Blue Falcon said:
I've been running my NB at 1.5v since the day I got the board some 2 months ago without issue, but I am using the fan MSI included to cool things down.

The answer to your second question is self evident; If you remove the heatpipe cooler then you will need to place a custom cooler onto the SB and mosfet heatsinks onto the PCMs.
Click to expand...

Actually if you can sever/break off the "heatpipe" connected to the SB then the block that is on it works just fine.
But removing the big heatpipe from the board kind of defeats the purpose of buying a Platinum board, since you essentially turn it into an FI.
 
I am having a hard time with OC this board. I have a 6420 with watercooling.
My temps idle around 31c with 1.45v
I have 2 Gig PC 6400 4 4 4 15 2T sticks
2 7900GTX Watercooled
Bios 2.24 SLI FI

Problem is for the life of me cannot get above 1500FSB on this board. I have cranked the Voltage to +2 in trying with no luck. Memory at 2.0-2.3 trying to see if that was holding me back.

I can get into windows at 1500FSB/375 800MEM and Orthos and or TAT no problem but it locks up on Future Mark or any game after 15 minutes with temps never getting above 52C. The Video Cards are Not overclocked.

If I try to go higher the 1500 then I get a hang before I get into windows and have to reset the CMOS.

Any idea?

I am thinking I just got a stinker but I wanted to exhaust all avenues first before I finalized on that conclusion.
 
Okay, new user here. This certainly seems like a great place for answers. I've read through the first 32 pages of posts and am still going, but I haven't found an answer to my woes. Let's start at the beginning and I apologize for the length of this post. This will be embarrasing because although I don't claim to be a genius at building my own systems, I go through it about once every couple of years without too many issues. I've never overclocked, and don't really plan to.

So I bought 4GB (4x1GB) 800mhz Crucial Ballistix because I saw a price I couldn't pass up. I had some trouble getting it into my old motherboard....and after finally getting the first one in and giving up on the second stick, I realized my Asus K8V-SE board wasn't made for DDR2. *Felt like an idiot*. The motherboard fried, and thus I figured it's time to upgrade anyway (after all I've got 4GB of RAM here to use)!

To the best of my ability, here's what I've put together last night:
MSI P6N SLI-FI
4GB DDR2 Crucial Ballistix (4x1GB)
Intel E6420 C2D w/ stock heatsink/fan
500GB SATA HD (don't remember brand)
nvidia 8600 GT XXX
Ultra XVS 700w PSU
Random floppy drive
LG GSH10 DVD+DL burner
Thermaltake Armor VA8003BWS case

Installation went smoothly. On default settings, POST is fine, but it won't boot into my Vista installation I had from the SATA hd (which existed from my old setup). It gets to the point where it would usually show the windows logo with the loading bars, but instead is just blank. After about 30 seconds I see the logo for a split second, then a blue error screen for even less time, and it resets. I figure maybe I need to reinstall Vista. I try booting from the CD, and it starts to load some drivers, eventually either hangs or resets.

I went into the BIOS and turned off "quick boot" and now whenever it gets to the POST part where it's checking my RAM, it freezes...at a different number each time - sometimes it almost counts all 4 GB, sometimes it gets to 1.6, etc. Also once it somehow got into a Windows memory test (not sure how I pulled it up accidentally) and it never got past checking 0.00%. That's frustrating because that program actually TELLS you that it may not look like it's doing anything, but to leave it alone and it will work. I left it for almost 10 minutes with 0 progress before giving up.

Now, I of course suspect a memory issue, but I removed 3 sticks of RAM, only installing the ONLY one of my new sticks that I had NOT opened and tried on the old dead system....same issues. I also tried putting a regular IDE hard drive with Win 2000 into the system instead of the SATA, and it hangs at various points while on the "loading Windows 2000" progress bar screen.

ANY idea would be appreicated. I plan to try moving the RAM around some more once I get back home, and maybe updating the BIOS, but I am afraid neither will work and then I'm fresh out of clues.
 
zcubed said:
ive heard this chipset hitting 1700fsb and im running it at 1500 with 1.35v. it runs 1066 at stock voltage as far as i know. i increased the voltage at 1333 for stability reasons. didnt overclock in steps. i just went 800,1066,1333,1500 and now im stuck at 1500 stable, cant even push it 20fsb more though i think mine is more of a cpu issue. as far as temps go make sure theres some form of fan on ur NB(i was cheap and put a green LED 80mm fan on top of mine after pulling off that ridiculous blue cover on the heatsink). and dont worry about it dying as long as ur not running it at like 1.45v or 1.5v continuously. if u want to keep the heatsink stock then i wouldnt recommend anything over 1.35v. but keep pushing the fsb up till u hit a wall and then back it down a bit from there for stability. ur fear is only logical if u overvolt the chipset too much which does kill ur chipset faster over time.
Click to expand...

I have an extra 80MM fan, but how do you get the blue thing off? I tried but didn't want to break anything. Is there a simple way to pop it off?

Also is it true that there is no risk without voltage? Can I just keep on going up till it stops on stock voltage and be safe?
 
:) I just finished putting my new rig together today but did not install the SB card and Audigy or the NB cooler. I used one of my program SI Sandra to run a BURN-IN Test for about six hours and at that point I still did not have any errors. I am a real newbie when it comes to OCing so I have a few questions before I start. First off I did not have any problems finding all the options to enable or disable. However, right after that section I then set the Bus Speed option to Manual. The system Clock Mode shows 1066. Since I have a E6700 should I change this setting to 1280 which would be 320 X 10 = 3.2 GHz for starters? Or should I start lower than that like maybe 300 X 10 = 3.0 and work my way up to the 3.2 or even 3.4?

The next big question concerns my memory. It is Patriot PC2-6400 800 MHz (4 x 1 GB) low latency (4-4-4-12) 2.2V. When I check the memory it is running at 5-5-5-16 2T 1.9 V. I am fairly sure that I read not to worry about the memory until I get the FSB stable. I just checked the BIOS setting for manual memory settings and there are lots of setting I have no idea how to set. Here are all the options:

tCL (CAS Lateney)=?
tRCD =
tRP =
tRAS =
tRRD =
tRC =
tWR =
tWTR =
tREF=
Command per Clock (CMD) This one I know should be set to 1 or 2T perferable 1T
Can anyone tell what I should put in each one of these to run my memory at 4-4-4-12 1T?

The other question is why is my Multiplier set to x 6 instead of x 10 ?

I know this is a lot but I have nothing but time on my hands. Right now I am running a memory test for the next 8 hours. Just want to make sure everything is running perfectly.
I learned a lot about putting this together on this thread and hope that I can help others with my limited knowledge.:D
 
This board is awesome

Just built a system with the following specs

E4300
MSI P6N-Sli
4GB DDR2 667
8800gts 320mb

On the third boot I changed it to an fsb of 1333 and it works like a charm, at 3ghz with stock voltage and cooling right now
 
Blue Falcon said:
I've been running my NB at 1.5v since the day I got the board some 2 months ago without issue, but I am using the fan MSI included to cool things down.

The answer to your second question is self evident; If you remove the heatpipe cooler then you will need to place a custom cooler onto the SB and mosfet heatsinks onto the PCMs.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I did realize that I would need to use some alternative cooling if I removed the northbridge heatsink. I think I might remove it and use some Artic Silver instead of the stock thermal pads. Has anyone here tried that? I am having a custom bracket made to hold a 50mm quiet Evercool fan that will be completed tomorrow. I will post some pictures as soon as I get it finished. Also, why are you running your NB voltage so high on such a low overclock? I'm just curious...
 
ccityinstaller said:
Thanks for the info. I did realize that I would need to use some alternative cooling if I removed the northbridge heatsink. I think I might remove it and use some Artic Silver instead of the stock thermal pads. Has anyone here tried that? I am having a custom bracket made to hold a 50mm quiet Evercool fan that will be completed tomorrow. I will post some pictures as soon as I get it finished. Also, why are you running your NB voltage so high on such a low overclock? I'm just curious...
Click to expand...

I havent updated my sig in months, I always forget about it... lol.

I currently run an E6600 at 3.5ghz :)
 
dude_500 said:
I have an extra 80MM fan, but how do you get the blue thing off? I tried but didn't want to break anything. Is there a simple way to pop it off?

Also is it true that there is no risk without voltage? Can I just keep on going up till it stops on stock voltage and be safe?
Click to expand...

no simple way to 'pop' it off. the blue cover is held on by the fins of the heatsink clamping on the sides. i had to slowly pry it off by loosning one side and then the other. while not completely true that there is no risk without increasing voltage, it is far less dangerous. increasing the fsb to above stock speeds does decrease the lifespan of a product but by so little that u will buy a new computer by the time it wants to die anyways. by increasing voltage there is always the small chance that u will damage ur components with more electricity than they were specified to run at. imagine a light bulb which gets just a tiny bit too much voltage. it will run brighter but its lifespan will decrease significantly. shitty example i know but u get the idea. if u wanna stay stock voltage and push it as high as it goes theres no problem with that. but there really is no harm in pushing the chipset to 1.35.
 
Wow that was a pain but I figured some of it out. Turns out my RAM was never damaged when I tried to put it into a DDR1 motherboard. But I was running into two seperate problems at the same time, which is what made it so confusing.
1) For some reason my Vista partition became completely unstable when I switched machines. I'm not sure why, but it wasn't going to boot no matter what I did, until I reinstalled it. Problem is I couldn't reinstall because the machine would restart or lock up.
2) Which brings me to number 2. I ran a memory diagnostic on each of the 4 1GB sticks and they each work fine. For some reason, having all 4 in the board screwed things up and I haven't been able to figure out why. Once I put 3 sticks in, I was able to reformat and reinstall Windows on my SATA drive.

Any ideas on why four sticks of RAM isn't working when any combination of 3 does? I'm not overclocking. It's 4-4-4-12 rated Crucial Ballistix 4 GB (4x1).
 
When trying to put in E6400 into its socket, in the manual it said to lower the load plate and then lightly to push load level to secure the CPU, but i had to press a bit hard to secure it under hook...did I just mess up my CPU/MOBO?!?!
 
Okay, read through the maze of links on the topic and disovered there's a good chance upgrading to the newest beta bios might clear things up for me.
 
Teufelhunden said:
When trying to put in E6400 into its socket, in the manual it said to lower the load plate and then lightly to push load level to secure the CPU, but i had to press a bit hard to secure it under hook...did I just mess up my CPU/MOBO?!?!
Click to expand...

Power it up and see.
 
Teufelhunden said:
Just wanted to see if anyone else had a problem like that...but, thanks anyways.:D
Click to expand...

Nope, you didn't break it. It usually required a pretty decent amount of force to push the lever back down once you've installed the CPU, and you'll hear a rather loud 'SNAP!' too.

So long as you've got the CPU sitting flush in the socket (the CPU is keyed to only go in one way) you're good to go.
 
Blue Falcon said:
Nope, you didn't break it. It usually required a pretty decent amount of force to push the lever back down once you've installed the CPU, and you'll hear a rather loud 'SNAP!' too.

So long as you've got the CPU sitting flush in the socket (the CPU is keyed to only go in one way) you're good to go.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much.
 
Teufelhunden said:
When trying to put in E6400 into its socket, in the manual it said to lower the load plate and then lightly to push load level to secure the CPU, but i had to press a bit hard to secure it under hook...did I just mess up my CPU/MOBO?!?!
Click to expand...

Sometimes the lever goes down fairly easy and other times it's much harder, depends on how well the PCD of the CPU fits in the socket and the socket retention system it's self, None of them are made exactly the same, so the fit will be a little different..............:D

My MSI board was a little stiff while installing the CPU and on my XFX 680i board it was much easier when using the same CPU.
 
Well I just tried the beta bios 2.24 on my SLI-FI and can tell you it seems alot more oc friendly . I just grabbed another 200mhz (and stable) on my (somewhat not so great oc'ing) 6420 "L644" :D :cool:

I can go another 50-75mhz on top of that but not yet tested for stability . .
 
Sgt Rock said:
Just took a look at the FTP site and saw the 2.24 BIOS for the FI and 1.34 for the Platinum, seems to allow me to overclock my memory a bit more. Your mileage may vary. If you do try it let us know how it goes. :)


ftp.msi.com.tw/bios/7350 login: jerryuser password: msiuser
Click to expand...

Cool I will try this this weekend. Plus it gives me an excuse to make a USB boot drive. :)

Oh and I was curious as to why the bios files cannot be found at the MSI website. Or at least I could not find em.
 
stereo55 said:
Well I just tried the beta bios 2.24 on my SLI-FI and can tell you it seems alot more oc friendly . I just grabbed another 200mhz (and stable) on my (somewhat not so great oc'ing) 6420 "L644" :D :cool:

I can go another 50-75mhz on top of that but not yet tested for stability . .
Click to expand...

2.24 is what I've been using for a little while now, it does seem to be a bit better for me as well, but my gains are a little less than your's............:D
 
So I have been trying for 5 hours today to build a system using the P6N Plat board with absolutely no luck.

Corsair 620W PSU
Pentium 805 D
Crucial Ballistix 800 DDR2

The system will not POST unless I clear the CMOS. This happens every single time. Once in the Windows will load but if I go to reset the computer I have to reset the CMOS to get it to POST.

I've tried everything: Changed CMOS battery, tried a PC P&C PSU, switched RAM around, manually entered the voltage for the RAM, went down to barebones to get it to boot and nothing seems to work. Once the computer is rebooted the CMOS has to be reset. About the only thing I haven't tried is trying the system outside of the case. I've made sure everything is plugged in nice and tight: 24 pin power connector, graphics card, the extra power for the mobo. I've reseated the RAM and video card. Unplugged everything extemporaneous from the mobo such as extra USB and Firewire headers. And yes I did clear the CMOS the right way; unplug the PSU, press the power and reset buttons several times, pressed the CMOS reset button several times. Nothing works.

Did I get a bad board?

Thanks!
 
overclock said:
So I have been trying for 5 hours today to build a system using the P6N Plat board with absolutely no luck.

Corsair 620W PSU
Pentium 805 D
Crucial Ballistix 800 DDR2

The system will not POST unless I clear the CMOS. This happens every single time. Once in the Windows will load but if I go to reset the computer I have to reset the CMOS to get it to POST.

I've tried everything: Changed CMOS battery, tried a PC P&C PSU, switched RAM around, manually entered the voltage for the RAM, went down to barebones to get it to boot and nothing seems to work. Once the computer is rebooted the CMOS has to be reset. About the only thing I haven't tried is trying the system outside of the case. I've made sure everything is plugged in nice and tight: 24 pin power connector, graphics card, the extra power for the mobo. I've reseated the RAM and video card. Unplugged everything extemporaneous from the mobo such as extra USB and Firewire headers. And yes I did clear the CMOS the right way; unplug the PSU, press the power and reset buttons several times, pressed the CMOS reset button several times. Nothing works.

Did I get a bad board?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

you need to update the bios.
 
TheFang1940 said:
:) I just finished putting my new rig together today but did not install the SB card and Audigy or the NB cooler. I used one of my program SI Sandra to run a BURN-IN Test for about six hours and at that point I still did not have any errors. I am a real newbie when it comes to OCing so I have a few questions before I start. First off I did not have any problems finding all the options to enable or disable. However, right after that section I then set the Bus Speed option to Manual. The system Clock Mode shows 1066. Since I have a E6700 should I change this setting to 1280 which would be 320 X 10 = 3.2 GHz for starters? Or should I start lower than that like maybe 300 X 10 = 3.0 and work my way up to the 3.2 or even 3.4?

The next big question concerns my memory. It is Patriot PC2-6400 800 MHz (4 x 1 GB) low latency (4-4-4-12) 2.2V. When I check the memory it is running at 5-5-5-16 2T 1.9 V. I am fairly sure that I read not to worry about the memory until I get the FSB stable. I just checked the BIOS setting for manual memory settings and there are lots of setting I have no idea how to set. Here are all the options:

tCL (CAS Lateney)=?
tRCD =
tRP =
tRAS =
tRRD =
tRC =
tWR =
tWTR =
tREF=
Command per Clock (CMD) This one I know should be set to 1 or 2T perferable 1T
Can anyone tell what I should put in each one of these to run my memory at 4-4-4-12 1T?

The other question is why is my Multiplier set to x 6 instead of x 10 ?

I know this is a lot but I have nothing but time on my hands. Right now I am running a memory test for the next 8 hours. Just want to make sure everything is running perfectly.
I learned a lot about putting this together on this thread and hope that I can help others with my limited knowledge.:D
Click to expand...

No one answered so I went out on my own and enabled and disabled everything for OCing. I set my FSB to 1280 which I assume is 320 X 4 which is 3.2 GHz. My tem are in the low 31 to 32 range for core 1 and 2. However, when I run Othos it fails almost immediately. I did not make any other changes. Does this mean I need to up my voltage? If yes, where and how much...? This is all very new to me. However, I am would like to learn.:D
 
overclock said:
So I have been trying for 5 hours today to build a system using the P6N Plat board with absolutely no luck.

Corsair 620W PSU
Pentium 805 D
Crucial Ballistix 800 DDR2

The system will not POST unless I clear the CMOS. This happens every single time. Once in the Windows will load but if I go to reset the computer I have to reset the CMOS to get it to POST.

I've tried everything: Changed CMOS battery, tried a PC P&C PSU, switched RAM around, manually entered the voltage for the RAM, went down to barebones to get it to boot and nothing seems to work. Once the computer is rebooted the CMOS has to be reset. About the only thing I haven't tried is trying the system outside of the case. I've made sure everything is plugged in nice and tight: 24 pin power connector, graphics card, the extra power for the mobo. I've reseated the RAM and video card. Unplugged everything extemporaneous from the mobo such as extra USB and Firewire headers. And yes I did clear the CMOS the right way; unplug the PSU, press the power and reset buttons several times, pressed the CMOS reset button several times. Nothing works.

Did I get a bad board?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Reboot into the system bios and manuallly set the memory voltage to the makers specs, most likely 1.9 - 2.1 or something of that nature. Try that and see what happens.
 
TheFang1940 said:
No one answered so I went out on my own and enabled and disabled everything for OCing. I set my FSB to 1280 which I assume is 320 X 4 which is 3.2 GHz. My tem are in the low 31 to 32 range for core 1 and 2. However, when I run Othos it fails almost immediately. I did not make any other changes. Does this mean I need to up my voltage? If yes, where and how much...? This is all very new to me. However, I am would like to learn.:D
Click to expand...
To answer the easy part of this question first, you need to up the vcore a notch or 2 and then run Orthos to see if it stable, if not, up the vcore a bit more. At this low of a FSB you shouldn't need to change any of the other voltages.

As for your memory settings, I've never used that ram but what I would do is just set the top 4 settings to SPD specs and leave the others on Auto for now, don't forget to set the memory voltage to spec as well or the system more than likely won't boot. I don't think that you'll get the system to run with a command rate of 1T running 4 gig, but like I already said, I've never used that ram before.
 
Bio-Hazard said:
To answer the easy part of this question first, you need to up the vcore a notch or 2 and then run Orthos to see if it stable, if not, up the vcore a bit more. At this low of a FSB you shouldn't need to change any of the other voltages.

As for your memory settings, I've never used that ram but what I would do is just set the top 4 settings to SPD specs and leave the others on Auto for now, don't forget to set the memory voltage to spec as well or the system more than likely won't boot. I don't think that you'll get the system to run with a command rate of 1T running 4 gig, but like I already said, I've never used that ram before.
Click to expand...
:) Thank Bio-Hazard for the good information. I set tje FSB tp 1200 and made the changes you suggested to the memory. At this point I did not up the vCore but booted and everything went very well. I have been running Othros for an hour without failure. I will continue to up my FSB and keep checking the results. When I go to FSB 1280 I will up the vCore and run Othros again I can see that this is a real trial and error project. You just have to keep working and trying different setting until you get to where you are stable and happy with the results.:p
 
Need a quick answer to this dilemma:
I paired this board with an Antec P180 and plugged the case's front USB header into the boards USB1 pinout, then added the included USB backplane card which has the diagnostics LEDs on along with two additional USB ports. Reading the manual, it says to plug the LED pinout into USB2, but that leaves me nowhere to plug in the USB backplane which would normally also reside in the USB2 pinouts.
I have a separate USB card I can use instead, but the external LED diagnostics is worth having, so I am trying to figure out how this would work together. TIA for an answer.
 
This is what you should be connecting your USB connectors to.

Front panel to the MoBo pins circled in Red.

D Bracket USB/LED to the MoBo pins circled in BLUE.

This is per the instruction manual.

usbfv6.jpg
 
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