NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

parts:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2YJtD

pictures:


question: what are good softwares to stress-test the CPU, memory, and GPU? i'd prefer if they're free. i'm running at stock clocks now, to make sure everything is working as it should.

- Is that the same board I have? (Asrock Z87E-ITX)
- Where'd you get the custom PSU cables?

If it's the same board, you should put that mSATA port on the underside to good use! I haven't explored the BIOS, but I hear that Z87 chipset boards (even Intel's) have a feature to use an mSATA SSD as a dynamic cache drive...effectively working together with your mechanical HDD as if it was a hybrid drive.

I mounted my PSU the other way (like it shows in the renders on ncases.com), especially because I don't want it sucking dust into the system. I wonder if I can mod it to turn the AC socket around without turning the entire PSU. :hmm:
 
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I finally got around to building mine and I absolutely love it! I'm still tweaking some things and I hope to make it better. I hope my feedback leads to some additions to the OP and to ncases.com so it's easier for anyone else to go through this (if there's anyone left that hasn't built their system yet).

Here's my build:

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4770k (Haswell)
    $250 Microcenter
    - Disappointed to learn that the K series has VT-d disabled. I think that might be useful if I ever decide to do some Hackintosh tinkering. :(
  • MOTHERBOARD
    Asrock Z87E-ITX
    $110 Microcenter
    - mSATA on the underside means I have no SATA power/data cables :D
    - I can't understand why there are 2 separate wires all-the-way to the WiFi antenna. It would only cause a tangled mess. The wires feel stiff (like solid-core, not stranded) and likely to break if flexed too much. WiFi 802.11ac is nice, but I'm not using WiFi.
    - I connected the antenna anyway in case it helps with the Bluetooth 4.0 module (it's on the same mini PCI-E module). Since the case is entirely metal, it would probably impede the RF signal for an internal BT antenna. I should probably try to find out for sure if the module is smart enough to use the external WiFi antenna for Bluetooth.
  • STORAGE
    Crucial 240GB mSATA SSD
    $120 Newegg
    Hides underneath the motherboard in the mSATA slot. :)
  • POWER SUPPLY
    Silverstone ST45SF-G "Gold" modular 450W SFX (micro ATX) PSU
    $95 Amazon
    - Why is the 24-pin ATX connector modular? Only so they can call it "fully modular?" You need to have that one, so there's no good reason for it to be modular. That connector kinda made things difficult.
    - The orientation of the AC input means I have to put a sharp bend in the internal AC power cable. It looks like it would still be in the way if I installed an optical drive. I could turn the whole PSU around, but then it would suck dust into the case. I'll have to buy some of the filters you guys are talking about.

My twin brother provided these components since he purchased them new June/July and never finished building his Haswell system:

  • MEMORY
    Crucial Ballistix 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 RAM
    $???
  • COOLING
    Corsair H100 closed-loop water cooling kit
    $???
  • GPU
    EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 4GB
    $???

Having some info added to the OP or to ncases.com would have made the build a lot easier.


-REFERENCE INFO FOR INCLUDED SCREWS-
A couple times, 30+ mins of searching Google would lead me to a post in the middle of this thread with an image showing the included screws and what they were meant for. Can that be added to the OP and to ncases.com? I actually need to find it again...but I just don't have the time to do it right now.​


-FAN FILTERS INFO-
If there's ever a "v2" version or "NCASE M2," I really hope it will be easy to remove/clean the fan filters. Using the case in my apartment without fan filters would be disastrous.

1) Is there some kind of guide showing the proper way to install? They're designed to lock/release with a twist, but I don't think they would ever fit between the bracket and the side panel with the Corsair H100 mounted...so the embossed "open/close" really means nothing if I have to take out a bunch of screws to remove it for cleaning. I had to put the filters between the bracket and the H100's fans. Am I doing it right?

2) My H100 has long screws with washers that are supposed to go through the bracket, filters, and fans; all the way into the actual radiator. Even with the washers removed, most of the screws just won't reach the threaded holes in the H100 when the filters are installed. I had to use short screws to secure the fans to the radiator (using a thin-shaft screwdriver through one hole to turn the screw), then put another set of short screws through the bracket and filters into the outer hole of the fan.

Does anyone know where I can get slightly longer screws for the H100 so I can simplify this?​


-FRONT USB PORTS-
I read somewhere that the USB logo on the cable should generally be on the right side when USB ports are vertical. I know that lots of systems don't conform to this "rule," but I thought I'd mention that this one doesn't conform (even though the rendered images show the "correct" orientation). I haven't checked to see if I can flip the ports over.

[off topic]
Speaking of USB orientation conventions, Apple tiny little Lightning/micro-USB adapter violates the rule. The required USB symbol is there, but it's on the wrong side. I wouldn't doubt that Apple did it deliberately to frustrate people and emphasize that the Lightning connector is reversible :)
[/off topic]​


-PSU RECOMMENDATIONS-
Can we add this to the OP and to ncases.com? It took me a while to figure out which SFX PSU was pictured in all the rendered shots on the site.

It would also be nice to list sources for custom PSU cables. It bothers me that I have a 4-pin Molex connector (not sure of the proper name for that one that powers IDE drives and case fans) only for the Corsair H100. That modular lead defiles my system with unused power connectors, including a [*shudder*] floppy power connector. :(

It would be totally awesome if a "v2" version or "NCASE M2" includes an optional SFX PSU made specifically for it (while still retaining the option to install your own ATX/SFX PSU).​


-HEADPHONE JACK-
I haven't tried any other headphones, but my Pioneer Steez headphones don't sound right when I push the 3.5mm phono jack all-the-way in. It's not just missing a channel...it's crackly and muffled. I have to pull the cord out *slightly* for the sound to be normal.

It probably has something to do with the fact that the cord has a microphone and iDevice-compatible volume controls, but it worked fine with my previous system's HDAudio jacks (Antec Nine Hundred). The cord can detach from the headphones, so I'll try a regular AUX cable the next time I find one around here...​

If there's ever a "v2" or "NCASE M2," I hope it addresses those issues. I would definitely build another system for myself and pass this First Edition to my brother.
 
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- Is that the same board I have? (Asrock Z87E-ITX)
- Where'd you get the custom PSU cables?

yes, it is the ASRock Z87E-ITX. The cables are Silverstone PP05-E flat flexible PSU cables and are very easy to work with. I bought mine from newegg.ca (with their overpriced items and ungodly shipping charges). If you're in the US, you should check amazon.com though; the cables used to go for $25 there.

If it's the same board, you should put that mSATA port on the underside to good use! I haven't explored the BIOS, but I hear that Z87 chipset boards (even Intel's) have a feature to use an mSATA SSD as a dynamic cache drive...effectively working together with your mechanical HDD as if it was a hybrid drive.

the mSATA port is already been put to good use; i have a 128GB Plextor M5M SSD there which I plan to use as my OS drive.

I mounted my PSU the other way (like it shows in the renders on ncases.com), especially because I don't want it sucking dust into the system. I wonder if I can mod it to turn the AC socket around without turning the entire PSU. :hmm:

I need to buy DEMCiflex filters (PSU/side/bottom)...
 
[*]CPU
Intel Core i7-4770k (Haswell)
$250 Microcenter
- Disappointed to learn that the K series has VT-d disabled. I think that might be useful if I ever decide to do some Hackintosh tinkering. :(

I went with the i7-4770 cpu. And it might make you feel better to know that the OSX install guide on tonymacx86 will have you disable VT-d in your BIOS before installation, so you are probably not missing out on anything.
 
I went with the i7-4770 cpu. And it might make you feel better to know that the OSX install guide on tonymacx86 will have you disable VT-d in your BIOS before installation, so you are probably not missing out on anything.

Cool. Thanks.

I was hoping there was a no-compromises way to run Windows and OSX using VT-d so the hypervisor gives Windows direct-access to the NVIDIA GPU while OSX uses the Intel internal GPU, I guess that won't work.

Still, I thought virtualization has always been huge for Macs...even back in the OS9 days. I wonder if the CPUs in a real Mac have VT-d capability...
 
Hello, I'm new around here and have been anxiously waiting for an opportunity to get an M1.

I am assuming the website wahaha360 is referencing is www.ncases.com ?

How would I go about getting a username/password so I can attempt to purchase one of these M1's on the first?

-Thanks
 
Extra M1s will be sold on our website on March 1, 2014 at 10AM EST.

Otherwise it might be overlooked, I know I did. Wouldn't it be best to put this info in the First Post ?

I also agree with Ichinisan, many info is hard to find, consolidating it on the website and/or the First Post of this topic is something that should be done.
 
How would I go about getting a username/password so I can attempt to purchase one of these M1's on the first?

You get the username/password sent to you after purchase, so that you can confirm address and follow your package tracking.

I suspect on 1st March a shopping cart thing will be added to ncases.com
 
I'm close to finishing my water loop in my M1. I had off yesterday, so I put the loop together. Here are some new pics. I had to scrap the light port LED's, because of space constraints. I ran out of time today when installing everything. My OCD is bothering me with that kinked tube. I'll have to shorten it when get time.

LL


LL


LL


LL
 
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2) My H100 has long screws with washers that are supposed to go through the bracket, filters, and fans; all the way into the actual radiator. Even with the washers removed, most of the screws just won't reach the threaded holes in the H100 when the filters are installed. I had to use short screws to secure the fans to the radiator (using a thin-shaft screwdriver through one hole to turn the screw), then put another set of short screws through the bracket and filters into the outer hole of the fan.

Does anyone know where I can get slightly longer screws for the H100 so I can simplify this?[/INDENT]

For your Corsair H100, 6-32 bolts x 1.5 inches in length should work.
I believe it's supplied with 1.25 inch bolts
 
I'm close to finishing my water loop in my M1. I had off yesterday, so I put the loop together. Here are some new pics. I had to scrap the light port LED's, because of space constraints. I ran out of time today when installing everything. My OCD is bothering me with that kinked tube. I'll have to shorten it when get time.

LL

Yer looks good just fix that kinked tube i also have a similar loop any reason you went with the H220 over a custom loop? what GPU are u using?
 
Does anyone have a link to where I can get a couple extra screws for a 2.5 inch hard drive for the M1? I just realized that my case only came with a single screw for it.

It looks like I need 3 of them to attach it to the inside front, but I never bothered to check since I'm still waiting on the new SilverStone SFX. I thoroughly checked every screw I have, and all the other screws I have are for mounting a 3.5 inch hard drive which I'm not planning on using.

Not sure if anyone wants to trade just a couple of screws, otherwise, finding somewhere to buy a couple online would require the least hassle assuming I can find these since they are a peculiar shape and size. Not sure how common they are to find, or how to find them... =/

Thanks!
 
Does anyone have a link to where I can get a couple extra screws for a 2.5 inch hard drive for the M1? I just realized that my case only came with a single screw for it.

One guy here found some at his local hobby shop and ground them down to fit..

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040520079&postcount=9532

This Lian Li kit *may* have the correct M3 shoulder screws, but not 100% sure..

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_210_750_759&products_id=24640

Really hoping W360 can get some spares from Lian Li (clips, screws, etc) to sell at NCASES.com ..heck, I'd buy a whole M1 accessory kit or 2 if it was available.
 
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What are people getting for M1s on the market? I think I have to let mine go and I'm not finding a lot of data?

I'm pretty interested jojo69, I sent you a PM but it is not super obvious that it went through. I'm relatively new as a member to the Hard Forum, but I've been tracking this thread pretty closely.

I know there are more being sold this Saturday, but if I can get a case sooner, I'd rather go that route as I would like to take it on business with me with an upcoming trip.

Such an awesome case, can't wait to get my hands on one!
 
@AFD:

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. So would something like this perhaps be a perfect replacement? I'm not too handy, and don't have the tools to ground them down, so would have no choice but to find a replacement that requires no additional work needed. Thanks again!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Traxxas-Shoulder-Screw-3x10mm-Revo-6-3966-NIB-/330957629043?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0e9ca673

Those should work fine. My RC guy didn't carry that particular length when I was shopping around.

Do note that the original Lian Li screws are sized at 9.5mm as per AFD's (vast amount of) sources shows:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040518230&postcount=9512

That means it is guarenteed that the Traxxas will interfere with the SSD stacking bracket screws (if that makes any sense). Assuming the 2.5in drive bore holes can accomodate the extra 0.5mm length of the Traxxas screws.
 
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Yer looks good just fix that kinked tube i also have a similar loop any reason you went with the H220 over a custom loop? what GPU are u using?

4670K. It was my first "custom loop". I got the h220 for $99. The apogee alone was around $140, so cost made the decision for me. I'm thinking of rotating the rad the other way, because the tubing seems to be very congested in it's current position.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BS903-106-S...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460f27fbc3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redcat-Raci...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d99b52c7

How about these screws. They are much closer in dimensions with what appears to be a more appropriate length of threaded section, have the appropriate diameter at the unthreaded section, and have a thin broad head, which is important in mounting the SSD/HDDs without binding on the components/frames on the other side.


The only significant difference here is the lack of a defined shoulder upon which the screw can be firmly locked against on the HDD mounting screw hole. This will mean the screw will go in further. This is only a concern if overtightened and the rubber grommet excessively compressed (difficult to insert into case), or if the screw never hits its stops(puts the screw at risk of self loosening over time). I personally have been using a standard M3 screw without a shoulder, and the screw has not come loose over the last few weeks of relocating on a daily basis, but its still not a guarantee it wont.

So far these are the closest I've seen..
 
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Extra M1s will be sold on our website on March 1, 2014 at 10AM EST.

Probably see the website crash at 10:01 AM due to heavy demand for so few cases. Don't stand in the doorway when you open it up, Wahaha. You'll get knocked down. :D
 
just got an email back from silverstone, no eta on the 600sfx but i did get a answer about it using the ppo5-e!

it will use that, means its just a case of switching out the actual psu and using the same cables :D
 
@AFD:

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. So would something like this perhaps be a perfect replacement? I'm not too handy, and don't have the tools to ground them down, so would have no choice but to find a replacement that requires no additional work needed. Thanks again!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Traxxas-Shoulder-Screw-3x10mm-Revo-6-3966-NIB-/330957629043?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0e9ca673

I used these for my M1 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Dell-CDROM-CD-ROM-DVD-DVDROM-Optical-Drive-Case-Screw-/200720630051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebbe1c123 and there same just not black no cutting needed.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xdell+Optical+Drive+Case+Screw&_nkw=dell+Optical+Drive+Case+Screw&_sacat=0&_from=R40

4670K. It was my first "custom loop". I got the h220 for $99. The apogee alone was around $140, so cost made the decision for me. I'm thinking of rotating the rad the other way, because the tubing seems to be very congested in it's current position.

Yer i have my rad port holes at the front of the case i also tried putting them at the base and go the same problem, But i was using a apogee i soon after pick up the full asus impact block from EK and a DDC pump made life a lot easier.


just got an email back from silverstone, no eta on the 600sfx but i did get a answer about it using the ppo5-e!

it will use that, means its just a case of switching out the actual psu and using the same cables :D

I heard it will be a 550w not a 600w.
 
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just got an email back from silverstone, no eta on the 600sfx but i did get a answer about it using the ppo5-e!

it will use that, means its just a case of switching out the actual psu and using the same cables :D

Last I saw, ETA for the 600W SFX was "end of April" for Europe via their EU rep..

http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/71-butiker-och-tillverkare/1267629-silverstone-pa-engelska/index3.html#post14335836

And "Q2" or maybe "after June" via their US rep..

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040552143&postcount=535

I heard it will be a 550w not a 600w.

See the above 2 posts. Their new SFX was officially confirmed to be 600W, and plans for the 550W were supposedly dropped.

Nothing has been certified yet, so I predict it hits market availability anywhere from May to November 2014. And I wouldn't even put money on that time frame :D
 
Last I saw, ETA for the 600W SFX was "end of April" for Europe via their EU rep..

http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/71-butiker-och-tillverkare/1267629-silverstone-pa-engelska/index3.html#post14335836

And "Q2" or maybe "after June" via their US rep..

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040552143&postcount=535



See the above 2 posts. Their new SFX was officially confirmed to be 600W, and plans for the 550W were supposedly dropped.

Nothing has been certified yet, so I predict it hits market availability anywhere from May to November 2014. And I wouldn't even put money on that time frame :D

this is where i got the information about it being a 600, i then emailed the us reps and got a response saying no time line or eta is released, but that the pp05-e still will work
 
Yer i have my rad port holes at the front of the case i also tried putting them at the base and go the same problem, But i was using a apogee i soon after pick up the full asus impact block from EK and a DDC pump made life a lot easier.

I'm thinking of going that route now. Can't decide on the full impact block or just one for the CPU. The H220 pump is pushing on the sound board and the daughter board. I don't feel comfortable with that. Also, I'll have to get the external res. I would like to do a pump/res combos mounted on the back externally. Would make maintenance a bit easier.
 
Handy that the PP05-E cable set will work, for people already using them (albeit redundant later). I myself am cutting the cables to minimum sizes, so it saves me from resleeving everything if I choose to upgrade the PSU.
 
I'm thinking of going that route now. Can't decide on the full impact block or just one for the CPU. The H220 pump is pushing on the sound board and the daughter board. I don't feel comfortable with that. Also, I'll have to get the external res. I would like to do a pump/res combos mounted on the back externally. Would make maintenance a bit easier.

I found using the full cover block for the impact it increased my cpu temps a bit because its getting heat from 2 more areas now but i also like knowing the vrms and sb are being cooled better, I know the vrms got really hot, what cpu are you using what are your temps like now?
 
I found using the full cover block for the impact it increased my cpu temps a bit because its getting heat from 2 more areas now but i also like knowing the vrms and sb are being cooled better, I know the vrms got really hot, what cpu are you using what are your temps like now?

4670K. Haven't tested temps yet. I put everything together on my one off day from work. I'm working 6 out of 7 days and when I finish, I go on family vacation. Might not have time to fool with it until next week. I'll try to redo the tubing when I get home this morning. I'm probably going to use the current setup for now. I really like the look of the full EK block!!:D Post a pick of your tubing layout if you can. I'm thinking of using a cylinder type res when I upgrade later.
 
I know the vrms got really hot, what cpu are you using what are your temps like now?

Im having a serious problem with this on my z77-i deluxe. If AI Suites readings are accurate, my vrm is almost always 1 degree hotter than the cpu itself. Im getting a Noctua NF-A9x14 fan that I will install in the rear and hope this will help at least a little.
 
Just finished re-routing the tubing. Will try to finish the assembly tomorrow morning. Off to sleep for now.


LL

This is pretty much the same setup I am aiming for. H220 with GPU block. BTW how much did you have to bend the daughter board up to get the h220 to fit? Also do you think there is room to fit a fan on the bottom?
 
Would one of these m-atx bords work?

9745_m.jpg


Basically they are itx with 2 slots extra which makes the 3rd slot in the M1 useful.
But from how I look at it we lack just about 1 cm,
Early in the thread some boards like this were mentioned, did anyone do a follow up on it?
Would just love to use a dedicated sound card in mine, even if it means going with a lowend board.
 
Would one of these m-atx bords work?

9745_m.jpg


Basically they are itx with 2 slots extra which makes the 3rd slot in the M1 useful.
But from how I look at it we lack just about 1 cm,
Early in the thread some boards like this were mentioned, did anyone do a follow up on it?
Would just love to use a dedicated sound card in mine, even if it means going with a lowend board.

I dont know wether this board will fit - probably wont, but if the only reason for you to even try it is to have a dedicated pce sound card then I would advice to forget it. You dont want your soundcard inside your case, it wouldnt be much different than the integrated. You want your sound card to be outside away from interference and preferable with its own power supply. If this is not possible for some reason, then get Asus Impact which has a small separate pce like sound card 'SupremeFX', probably the best audio on itx.
 
It's not like I want an audiophile setup, but surely you can get better sound out of it.
For me it would be worth it, even if not using a sound card but something else completely, there's plenty of expansion cards that could be helpful.
Like a scsi card for example for some equipment I have while there are no thunderbolt equipped itx boards yet.
Some scsi stuff is irreplaceable even still in this day, just because they never made anything newer or better.

Since there was interest for several reasons in this thread before I think it's worth checking up on, I know I will once they become available even if it means throwing 50/60 euro away,
 
I remember reading it a while back, but just wanted to confirm; the current ASUS DCII card will not fit into the M1?

I know it looks like a very tight fit. I want to know if this is Absolutely confirmed, or if it was a "best guess" that it would not fit.

i.e. Has someone physically tried this card in this case?

5KjZfoTnFNuIjmat_500.jpg


I am still searching in this thread for information.
 
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