Please review my new build

[PhlegmMaster]

Hello! I don't build new PCs very often so I'm asking for help from the experts here to make sure this build is a good one and I'm not making any mistakes.

This PC will be used mostly for gaming; the idea is to buy good parts but nothing really top of the line so it's not too expensive. I'll buy everything at ncix.com and have them assemble it; I did my own assembly last time and while things went well it took me a whole day.




Intel Core i5 3570K Unlocked Quad Core Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Ivy Bridge 6MB Retail
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=70541&promoid=1275

ASUS P8Z77-V Lk ATX LGA1155 Z77 DDR3 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 3PCI SATA3 SLI DVI HDMI DP USB3.0 Motherboard
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=71114&promoid=1360

Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN Core i5 i7 AMD Memory Kit
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=55445&promoid=1275

ASUS GeForce GTX 760 DirectCU II OC 1075MHZ 2GB 6.0GHZ GDDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Video Card
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=85679&promoid=1275

Antec Basiq BP550 Plus 550W 24PIN ATX 12V V2.2 80PLUS Modular Active PFC Power Supply
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=41979&promoid=1305

Bitfenix Ghost ATX NanoChrome Coating Mid Tower Case Black 3X5.25EXT 4X3.5INT No PS Top USB3.0 Audio
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=73006&promoid=1389

Samsung 840 Series 250GB 2.5in SATA3 MDX Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=77211

Western Digital 1TB SATA 6GB/S AV-GP Intellipower 64MB 3.5in Hard Drive OEM
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=86211

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Direct Touch 4 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 AM3 1366/1150/1155/1156/2011 120mm
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=64385&promoid=1275

ASUS DRW-24F1ST 24X SATA DVD Writer Black
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=82953&promoid=1382

And Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit


With 50$ for assembly this all adds up to 1320 CAD.



So, does this look OK? Is there part I should switch for something else? Have I forgotten anything?



Thank you!

 

[tiraides]

Please answer the sticky questions so we can better tailor our recommendations to your needs. I know you already have a build in mind, but if we make any changes, it helps us to know what you want out of this build.

The Antec Basiq PSU series is a bad choice. If you need a cheap yet capable power supply, go for the Corsair CX series (e.g. CX500). But you may want to consider spending some more money on a more powerful, better quality power supply (e.g. TX750).

Why are you going with Ivy Bridge (i5-3570K/P8Z77-V LK) when Haswell (i5-4670K/Z87-A) is now available?

Which games are you (planning on) playing? At what resolution (and level of eye candy)?

 

[PhlegmMaster]

1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc

Gaming.

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?

About 1500 CAD with tax and shipping. I mean, if I can spend less that's great, but if I can get something that will make a huge difference for not much more money than that, I'll probably do it.

3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.

Canada.

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.

Everything listed in the OP: MB, CPU, GPU, RAM, SSD, HDD, DVDRW, power supply, case, fan.

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.

Nothing.

6) Will you be overclocking?

Maybe a bit eventually, if I want a game that needs a better CPU speed to run well. So I want to keep to keep the option open if it's not too expensive.

7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?

1920x1080, 23".

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?

Next Monday (the 29th) at the latest.

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video (as a backup or main GPU)? UEFI? etc.

Whatever's needed to accomodate the rest of the parts. No RAID or Firewire or Crossfire or SLI, no

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?

No, I'll have to buy Windows 7 64bits. I don't like Windows 8.

 

[PhlegmMaster]

The Antec Basiq PSU series is a bad choice. If you need a cheap yet capable power supply, go for the Corsair CX series (e.g. CX500).

All right, thanks.

But you may want to consider spending some more money on a more powerful, better quality power supply (e.g. TX750).

Well, it's just 30 more dollars so if you think it's worth it I'll go for it, but... do I really need 750W?

Why are you going with Ivy Bridge (i5-3570K/P8Z77-V LK) when Haswell (i5-4670K/Z87-A) is now available?

I figured it'd be a way to save money without losing much performance, but looking at those prices I guess I was wrong. Thanks!

Which games are you (planning on) playing? At what resolution (and level of eye candy)?

I want to be able to play any game that comes out in the next 2-3 years at 1920x1080 with a decent level of eye candy (like, "High" graphic settings, as opposed to 'Ultra' or 'Extreme'). I figure this should mean I can play any game currently released at maxed settings or close enough.

 

[perplexical]

I agree with the suggestions tiraides has made. The 750w gives you enough head room in case you want to add more things to your rig in the future, such as going SLI, adding fans, etc. With the changes, I think you will have a very solid build for the years to come.

 

[tiraides]

I made a few changes:

$390 - Intel i5-4670K and Asus Z87-A bundle
$35 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
$84 - Corsair Vengeance LP 2x4GB DDR3 1600
$320 - PowerColor HD 7970
$190 - Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD
$72 - WD Blue 1TB SATA 6Gb/s HDD
$15 - Asus DRW-24F1ST/BLK/B/AS
$90 - Corsair TX750
$70 - Bitfenix Ghost
$98 - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM
=====
$1364 - Subtotal (not including shipping, taxes, other fees/charges, or rebates)

I went with the Haswell combo, the Corsair TX750, and a few other ideas. The Haswell combo I found was a special; it's originally priced considerably more than the Ivy Bridge combo. Haswell is faster clock-for-clock than Ivy Bridge, but it doesn't overclock as well. (Haswell runs considerably hotter than Ivy Bridge, especially when overclocked, which may limit how far you can push your overclock.)

I recommend sticking with the Corsair TX750 if you can afford to. The PSU is of better quality than either the Antec BP550 Plus or the Corsair CX500 and it can support a dual-card setup (or a dual-GPU card) should you decide to go that route later on.

I had to switch out the RAM as the set you chose ran at 1.65V (which could damage your system). Sadly, the cheapest 1.5V 8GB dual-channel kits start upwards of $80, so I went with a reliable choice in the Corsair Vengeance LP. While there is another set of Corsair Vengeance RAM currently on sale, the large heatspreaders on that RAM will interfere with the placement of the Cooler Master CPU cooler.

I kept the Samsung 840 SSD, but I replaced your WD Green HDD with a WD Blue drive. The WD Blue series is recommended for everyday use, and it didn't cost much more than the slower WD Greens.

If you're looking to game for two or three years on the same video card -- and you're only going for one card (versus, say, a dual-GPU card or a dual-card SLI/CFX setup) -- you should seriously consider either the HD 7970 or the GTX 770. The GTX 760 is a good card, especially for its value, but it's not designed for "Ultra" or max settings on graphically demanding games.

(So why the PowerColor HD 7970? It was on sale. Caveat emptor, however, PowerColor seems to be low on many people's collective quality/customer service scale. The two cards I referenced earlier are of better quality, but you will pay considerably more for either of them.)

 

[Quartz-1]

I went with the Haswell combo, the Corsair TX750, and a few other ideas. The Haswell combo I found was a special; it's originally priced considerably more than the Ivy Bridge combo. Haswell is faster clock-for-clock than Ivy Bridge, but it doesn't overclock as well. (Haswell runs considerably hotter than Ivy Bridge, especially when overclocked, which may limit how far you can push your overclock.)

Does the motherboard you suggest have the USB 3 bug? I'd suggest sticking with IB for the moment: Haswell is very new and may still have a few nasty surprises whereas IB is a mature platform.

 

[tiraides]

Does the motherboard you suggest have the USB 3 bug? I'd suggest sticking with IB for the moment: Haswell is very new and may still have a few nasty surprises whereas IB is a mature platform.

I've read just as many reports about the USB 3.0 bug being fixed as there are about the bug existing in the first place.

And the bug is pretty minor when all things are considered: some plugged-in USB (flash) drives aren't recognized after the computer exits S3 sleep mode. The fix is equally minor in that you either restart your system or remove the flash drive and reconnect it. Haswell's USB 3.0 bug isn't on the same level as the Sandy Bridge/Z67 flaw.

So far, I haven't read any reports of Haswell users suffering from the bug, let alone anything worse.

 

[PhlegmMaster]

I made a few changes:

$390 - Intel i5-4670K and Asus Z87-A bundle
$35 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
$84 - Corsair Vengeance LP 2x4GB DDR3 1600
$320 - PowerColor HD 7970
$190 - Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD
$72 - WD Blue 1TB SATA 6Gb/s HDD
$15 - Asus DRW-24F1ST/BLK/B/AS
$90 - Corsair TX750
$70 - Bitfenix Ghost
$98 - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit OEM
=====
$1364 - Subtotal (not including shipping, taxes, other fees/charges, or rebates)

I went with the Haswell combo, the Corsair TX750, and a few other ideas. The Haswell combo I found was a special; it's originally priced considerably more than the Ivy Bridge combo. Haswell is faster clock-for-clock than Ivy Bridge, but it doesn't overclock as well. (Haswell runs considerably hotter than Ivy Bridge, especially when overclocked, which may limit how far you can push your overclock.)

I recommend sticking with the Corsair TX750 if you can afford to. The PSU is of better quality than either the Antec BP550 Plus or the Corsair CX500 and it can support a dual-card setup (or a dual-GPU card) should you decide to go that route later on.

I had to switch out the RAM as the set you chose ran at 1.65V (which could damage your system). Sadly, the cheapest 1.5V 8GB dual-channel kits start upwards of $80, so I went with a reliable choice in the Corsair Vengeance LP. While there is another set of Corsair Vengeance RAM currently on sale, the large heatspreaders on that RAM will interfere with the placement of the Cooler Master CPU cooler.

I kept the Samsung 840 SSD, but I replaced your WD Green HDD with a WD Blue drive. The WD Blue series is recommended for everyday use, and it didn't cost much more than the slower WD Greens.

If you're looking to game for two or three years on the same video card -- and you're only going for one card (versus, say, a dual-GPU card or a dual-card SLI/CFX setup) -- you should seriously consider either the HD 7970 or the GTX 770. The GTX 760 is a good card, especially for its value, but it's not designed for "Ultra" or max settings on graphically demanding games.

(So why the PowerColor HD 7970? It was on sale. Caveat emptor, however, PowerColor seems to be low on many people's collective quality/customer service scale. The two cards I referenced earlier are of better quality, but you will pay considerably more for either of them.)

Thank you so much for the excellent advice!

I'll order exactly the parts you've listed, except maybe for the video card : Due to some bad experiences I've promised myself I'd never buy an AMD card again.

The GTX 770 is about 130$ more than the 760, which makes me exceed my budget by exactly that amount (with taxes and assembly and shipping). Hmm. Do you think it would be better in the long run if I buy a GTX 760 and upgrade to something better in a couple years if there's a game I want that needs it?

Either way, am I better off with Gigabyte or MSI?

 

[tiraides]

The GTX 770 is about 130$ more than the 760, which makes me exceed my budget by exactly that amount (with taxes and assembly and shipping). Hmm. Do you think it would be better in the long run if I buy a GTX 760 and upgrade to something better in a couple years if there's a game I want that needs it?

Either way, am I better off with Gigabyte or MSI?

If your budget's a major concern, go with the GTX 760. You can always upgrade the card (or buy a second one for SLI) later.

I personally believe that Gigabyte and MSI are on the same tier in terms of quality and customer service. Go with whichever brand you feel more comfortable with.

 

[PhlegmMaster]

If your budget's a major concern, go with the GTX 760. You can always upgrade the card (or buy a second one for SLI) later.

I personally believe that Gigabyte and MSI are on the same tier in terms of quality and customer service. Go with whichever brand you feel more comfortable with.

After 10 minutes of intense meditation, I've concluded that You Only Live Once, so I'll go with the 770 (Gigabyte since it's a tiny bit faster).

Also I'll switch the Bitfenix case for a Fractal Define R4 ATX, since I've read the Bitfenix is a bit flimsy.

I'll see if I can save a few dollars with NCIX's pricematch, and place my order right after I'm done.

Thank you again for the help, tiraides!

 

[Quartz-1]

And the bug is pretty minor when all things are considered:

That's true, but perhaps I should have been more explicit: the point is that the bug is there. And given it's there, what other issues are there too? Give people - other people - time to find the problems. The OP doesn't have funds for replacement.

The other thing I would suggest is an external USB DVD-RW at $35 rather than an internal one. They're used so seldom and impede air flow in the case and the lens gets dirty that it's better IMO to just have an external one which you can put away, or use with other PCs.

 

[PhlegmMaster]

That's true, but perhaps I should have been more explicit: the point is that the bug is there. And given it's there, what other issues are there too? Give people - other people - time to find the problems. The OP doesn't have funds for replacement.

Well, I haven't ordered yet so I can still make a change. I'll wait for tiraides' counter-argument!

The other thing I would suggest is an external USB DVD-RW at $35 rather than an internal one. They're used so seldom and impede air flow in the case and the lens gets dirty that it's better IMO to just have an external one which you can put away, or use with other PCs.

Hmm, I have too much stuff on my desk already.

 

[tiraides]

Well, I haven't ordered yet so I can still make a change. I'll wait for tiraides' counter-argument!

There really isn't much of a counter-argument to make. If you're more comfortable with Ivy Bridge than Haswell, I can't really stop you from making that decision.

The "fix" to the Haswell issue is to find Socket 1150 motherboards that have a "C2" version/revision. The C2 boards don't suffer from the USB issue. However, sites like NCIX (and even NewEgg) don't give you any indication as to which version of a particular item they have.

Again, I can't tell you which way to go. You have to determine whether or not the Haswell USB bug is a show-stopper for you.

 

[PhlegmMaster]

There really isn't much of a counter-argument to make. If you're more comfortable with Ivy Bridge than Haswell, I can't really stop you from making that decision.

The "fix" to the Haswell issue is to find Socket 1150 motherboards that have a "C2" version/revision. The C2 boards don't suffer from the USB issue. However, sites like NCIX (and even NewEgg) don't give you any indication as to which version of a particular item they have.

Again, I can't tell you which way to go. You have to determine whether or not the Haswell USB bug is a show-stopper for you.

If I did go for the IvyBridge bundle http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=72062 should I change anything else in the build? Different RAM, for example?

 

[tiraides]

No.