Project: Beast III

Technoob said:
forgive my noobitude, but what do those coils do?
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Dissipate heat transferred from the water (of the water cooling system) running through them. It's a DIY radiator...very [H]ard :)
 
Yea, I forgot to mention the finned tubes will have coolant flowing through them. Sorry. Thanks for the kudos.

Steven
 
If there was anything on the internet I liked looking at as much as porn, it would have to be THIS THREAD!!
 
I have to say I love the wall decoration in the background of this pic... your own bunny. Nice!

:D :D :D

psshrdassy017.jpg
 
I dont know whether to praise you....or have you institutionalized. Beautiful work with the plexi.
 
jmroberts70 said:
If there was anything on the internet I liked looking at as much as porn, it would have to be THIS THREAD!!
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Agree times infinity. What an overbuilt man's paradise you have there! I am constantly wondering when your next update will be!

Many many kudos to you. That is freaking awesome!
Edit: Spelling! D'oh
 
The only thing to wonder is hpw robust your health insurance is when you get hernias trying to lift it!!!!
It is a thing of beauty though :D :cool: :eek:
 
0mega said:
hoe. lee. shit.
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That is exactly what I said to myself. I am amazed at how you can do all of that on your own. :)

[noob]
As for the coils, you already have a radiator on the other side of the fan, correct? What is this going to add? Also with the width of those coils your tubes are going to arc out pretty wide around the case right?
[/noob]

I really like how you take the standard equiptment, look at it and say "wow, inferior", toss it to the side and totally pro-up your own stuff. "eh, i'll just make my own barbs and wheels, done." :eek:
 
Greetings all!

I'm still cranking on the 'Beast". I have done a little more work on the power supply shroud. Here is a shot of the connections for the finned tubes. These are the barbs I was going to use in the reserviors.
psshroud007.jpg


Here are some shots of the holes in the plexi. I was a dumbass when I made the barbs for the reservior. I made the connecting thread a 1/2"-18 . This is NOT the normal pitch for 1/2". The normal pitch is 13 or 20. I had to purchase a special tap (from Mcmaster for only about $25.00)

Here is a shot of the bottom exit hole and the feed hole
psshroud023.jpg


Here is a shot of the top exit hole. I wanted a nice finish on the hole so I had to bore them. The feed holes are 3.1" deep (from the bottom of the shroud)
psshroud024.jpg


A few more shots
psshroud025.jpg

psshroud026.jpg

psshroud027.jpg

psshroud028.jpg

psshroud029.jpg


Here is a close up of the hose barbs
psshroud008.jpg


Hopefully this shot will give you an idea of how the tubing will flow
psshroud009.jpg


With tubing (Don't worry, I will have hose clamps on all barbs. The length of the tubing may be shortened. I will get it as short as I can without any kinks)
psshroud010.jpg


Some close-ups
psshroud011.jpg

psshroud012.jpg

psshroud013.jpg

psshroud014.jpg


Here is the assembly mounted on the case. I added the feed barb
psshroud015.jpg


Some other views and close-ups
psshroud017.jpg

psshroud018.jpg

psshroud019.jpg

psshroud020.jpg

psshroud021.jpg

psshroud022.jpg


The inlet hole size on the feed barb is about 3/8" of an inch. When you split this down to three hoses, you get a significant flow drop. To counteract this drop, I needed to block (resist) the flow somehow. Also, the finned radiator tubes have an internal diameter of .383" of an inch. I wanted more of the fluid to be closer to the walls for more heat exchange (the water flowing down the middle is less likely to give up it's heat energy). The solution I came up with solves both issues. I wanted the total I.D. of the three finned tubes to equal the I.D. of the feed hose barb. If you do the math (minus the blocked flow of the copper rod mounts), the flow is about equal. To counteract the restriction of the mounts, I'm going to taper the ends of the copper rods. On with the pics.

First the copper rod mounts. I have no idea what steel this is (it was some left-over in my box). It was heat treated though. Material is 1/2' in diameter
coprodmount000.jpg


Here are the slugs I turned up on the engine (manual) lathe. The hole in the middle is just big enough to clear a 2-56 screw (about .089")
coprodmount001.jpg


I then cut one side down
coprodmount002.jpg


Close-up
coprodmount003.jpg


The lot
coprodmount004.jpg


I then cut the other side down. (the width came to .135")
coprodmount005.jpg


Close-up (I sanded the sides to almost a mirror finish, you can see the reflection of the fabric)
coprodmount006.jpg


The lot
coprodmount007.jpg


This is to give you a sense of the scale (note penny) and to show some of the near mirror finish
coprodmount008.jpg

coprodmount009.jpg

coprodmount010.jpg


Here is the copper rod (1/4" diameter). If you have ever had to tap copper, you know what a bitch it can be. Copper is very gummy (and a 2-56 tap is VERY small)
coprod001.jpg


Here is the support mounted to the copper rod
coprodmount011.jpg


Here is the rod and mount installed in the finned tube
coprodmount012.jpg


Close-up's
coprodmount013.jpg

coprodmount014.jpg


That is all I have done. I have yet to determine what color the barbs and finned tubes (and mounts) will be anodized. It's either going to be rad or black or some combo of the two.

Stay tuned.

Steven
 
Holy crap dude. You are comin up with ideas I wouldn't begin to imagine. Insane work. Keep it up.
 
Best project so far at [H]-forums. I wish I could begin to do what you have accomplished so far.

Props.
 
anodized in a mix of the two would be nice =D helluva job you've done so far keep it up!

question about the whole setup can you kinda guide us through the bottom loop? are those circular fins going to be on a seperate loop or is it all going to be going through the same pump? multiple pumps maybe? with all that water flowing through are you even going to need a res?
 
Wow, such great machining and attention to detail.

I just thought of this thread because I ordered a red passive radiator as well. They don't make them anymore, and I think I got the last one. Hopefully; we'll see tomorrow. I don't want to have to get one powdercoated myself.

Anyway, you have alot of different metals in this loop. You're definitely going to be relying on the anti corrosive additives. Also, I'm having trouble seeing where those downward barbs are going to go, as they seem a little close to the ground to run hoses without kinking. I'm sure I will be surprised as always by this thread.

Again, great work, awesome job, and entertaining thread.
 
Machine shop is my favourite class, and going into grade 12 this year, we get to build what we want to, best believe I'm finally going to make a case for (cf)Eclipse's Newark he killed :)

I just wish I was as good as you are, you do some amazing work only an experienced machinist could ever dream of.

Also, I have tapped copper before, and it is annoying, aluminum however cuts like butter.
 
By the time you're done you can put a few directx 10 cards in quad sli and some quad core processors :D

Coolest case mod I've ever seen.
 
You know, I thought that the rear finned tubes looked familiar, and I think I know why. They look exactly like the water to air intercooler tubes in the new Eaton supercharged Cadillac motors. You know, the CTS-V, STS-V? 460 HP out of them is not shabby at all. Biggest eye opener was learning there's more there with refinement. :eek:

Am I close? If so, do I win a custom machined prize? :D
 
unbelievebly awesome, I can never say enough "this is fucking awesome stuff, I'm so geeking out" comments, it truley rocks man!
 
Nice mod, I love stopping by and seeing how it changes.

But uh, just one question. What about galvanic corrosion due to the two different types of metal you are using in your loop, the copper and aluminum. In the boating world to help stop galvanic corrosion we add a small "sacraficial metal' to the outboard part of the engine. This is normally zinc or aluminum. And iirc your fin radiator is aluminum and the pipe going through it is copper. :eek: This might be bad.
 
Anavel0 said:
Nice mod, I love stopping by and seeing how it changes.

But uh, just one question. What about galvanic corrosion due to the two different types of metal you are using in your loop, the copper and aluminum. In the boating world to help stop galvanic corrosion we add a small "sacraficial metal' to the outboard part of the engine. This is normally zinc or aluminum. And iirc your fin radiator is aluminum and the pipe going through it is copper. :eek: This might be bad.
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Galvinic corrosion isn't as much of a problem with distilled water and additives to prevent it. In boating it's hard to put additives in the water to prevent it from corroding parts, but computer cooling is more similar to engine cooling where you have all sorts of metals interacting, but antifreeze protects it all.
 
Yeah I figured, but I don't water cool so I wasn't really sure. Just kind of scray from my perspective. If you saw some of the sacraficial metal disk you would be afraid too lol.
 
Stevennoland said:
That is all I have done. I have yet to determine what color the barbs and finned tubes (and mounts) will be anodized. It's either going to be rad or black or some combo of the two.
Click to expand...

If i understand this correctly you're planning to anodize the aluminium parts? If the anodizing is also done on the inside of the finned tubes it will pretty much eliminate any galvanic corrosion (The same reason why Zalman anodize their water cooling blocks)?
 
dasilva333 said:
anodized in a mix of the two would be nice =D helluva job you've done so far keep it up!

question about the whole setup can you kinda guide us through the bottom loop? are those circular fins going to be on a seperate loop or is it all going to be going through the same pump? multiple pumps maybe? with all that water flowing through are you even going to need a res?
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Thanks! The reservior I'm planning is also going to have a built in radiator, so yes, I'm planning on a reservior. The number of loops (including pumps) is currently at five. The Black Ice micro 2 and the fins on the PSU shroud are going to be one loop. Thanks for asking.

Steven
 
brasherman said:
You know, I thought that the rear finned tubes looked familiar, and I think I know why. They look exactly like the water to air intercooler tubes in the new Eaton supercharged Cadillac motors. You know, the CTS-V, STS-V? 460 HP out of them is not shabby at all. Biggest eye opener was learning there's more there with refinement. :eek:

Am I close? If so, do I win a custom machined prize? :D
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You could be close, but I don't know what these finned tubes go into. Sorry.

Steven
 
Legion© said:
If i understand this correctly you're planning to anodize the aluminium parts? If the anodizing is also done on the inside of the finned tubes it will pretty much eliminate any galvanic corrosion (The same reason why Zalman anodize their water cooling blocks)?
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You are correct. The anodize will also be on the inside. I'm not worried about galvanizing. I'm planning on using some non-conductive stuff that Danger Den sells. Thanks for asking.

Steven

ps Again, thanks to you all for the kudos. See ya soon with more!
 
You are using a cnc mill right. And if so its the one at work, if you own one you are rich!!! But anyway nice work, there is no way in hell i could do that work without a mill and some $$$. If i had those items i would build the same type of setup you have. And what has this build cost you so far?
 
Fuckin christ man, that case is off the HOOK. Keep doin well! ;)
 
Holy crap dude! this is one awsome work :eek: i realy like youre ideas and design. keep up the good work, this is going to turn out good ^^
 
Borgschulze said:
Machine shop is my favourite class, and going into grade 12 this year, we get to build what we want to, best believe I'm finally going to make a case for (cf)Eclipse's Newark he killed :)

I just wish I was as good as you are, you do some amazing work only an experienced machinist could ever dream of.

Also, I have tapped copper before, and it is annoying, aluminum however cuts like butter.
Click to expand...
I would've continued Metalwork after Gr.9 if I wasn't afraid of the welding tools and the dumb fucks in my class who wielded them :eek:
 
tylerdustin2008 said:
You are using a cnc mill right. And if so its the one at work, if you own one you are rich!!! But anyway nice work, there is no way in hell i could do that work without a mill and some $$$. If i had those items i would build the same type of setup you have. And what has this build cost you so far?
Click to expand...

Thanks! No, I'm not using a CNC mill. All this work so far has been done on a manual mill (and manual lathe). Yes, it is a mill (and lathe) at work. I wish I was rich, and if so, I would pay someone else to make this stuff for me. The cost so far is unknown. I would venture more than a G, but less than 2G.

Steven
 
n00btard said:
I would've continued Metalwork after Gr.9 if I wasn't afraid of the welding tools and the dumb fucks in my class who wielded them :eek:
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It's funny how fear can do that. It either makes you weaker or stronger (no middle ground).

Steven
 
Stevennoland said:
It's funny how fear can do that. It either makes you weaker or stronger (no middle ground).

Steven
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okay, this is what turned me off:

teacher: "A before O or up you go." in Oxy-Acetylene torch class. Light acetylene first, or 20% of the school goes up in flames if you feed pressurized oxygen to a friction lighter.

stupid kid hated by all 2500 students in school: HAD THE OXYGEN VALVE OPEN, ACETYLENE CLOSED. TRIED TO LIGHT THE FUCKER.

I took cover behind a workbench with my hands covering my head while the teacher was swearing up and down, going "WHAT THE %$@^ ARE YOU DOING!?" to the dumbass kid.

To everyone's relief, he was transferred to a newer high school the following year.

In another instance, my teacher set up a spot welder for me, fiddled around with the settings so it was appropriate for my application. Burnt a hole in my project, in less than a second, made a blinding flash. Teacher was laughing at his own mistakes, while I damn near crapped my pants. Any subsequent attempts by me to try to get the spot welder to work failed miserably.
___________

Maybe I'll buy one of those hand-held torch things and practice brazing barbs onto heatercores, before moving back into Gr.12 Metalwork with the bigger TIG Welders and stuff.

I'm really accurate with a drill press and I'm descent with a lathe though.
 
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