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i don't have much to say regarding the rest of your post, however that last item is a fan bus plain and simple. it's a way to run a variety of fans if you don't want to run them off of MOBO headers or separate PSU lines. if it fits your build well: great. for myself, i'm working on making...

yeah, i got it to work this time around. the MSI card that i originally purchased was a nightmare. i ended up exchanging it. this sapphire 4890 installed nice and easy. not a lot of OC headroom, unfortunately, but at least it works right. hopefully it'll clock better after i put some more...

i'm pretty sure that you can, pending the advice of someone who actually owns one. so far as i recall, swiftech bundles their WC kits with delta 38mm thick fans, and so the radbox should be packaged with the hardware to reflect that. not to put too fine a point on it, though, screws are pretty...

yeah, that's a decent rad at a good price. and specifically the '77 pontiac bonneville heatercore is a good fit for 2 120mm fans. i forget if it's the one with or without A/C that you want, though. :P .......back in the day......jeez......make a guy feel old.......

don't worry yourself too much about it, since i was running a peltier rig and had a failure that could only occur in a peltier rig, but i was running 1/2" barbs in 1/2" ID tubing. power flickered, the computer and fans shut off, but the peltiers and pump didn't.........the water boiled from the...

well, if you're going with a triple rad and yateloon fans, you have a really high potential for very low noise operation, with good temps. there are plenty of factors in the mix, but you might want to consider the option of getting one MCP355 now, with the potential for getting a second at some...

three 120mm fans/rads is lots of cooling power, and the MCP-350 has gobs of head pressure: it's not going to bog down. be great if you could add a second MCP-350 in-line down the road, but it'll work as you've described you system.

i'm wondering if anybody has mounted a MCW 60 block on a radeon 4890 card? hole to hole spacing is good, back plate fits, but the core doesn't seem to mate onto the face of the block terribly well. it's not leaving an even application of thermal compound when i test-mount the block and take...

i have had a black ice rad repaired at a rad shop before. it cost a bit, but they fixed it quick and easy.

my sig needs a massive update, but........ last weekend i LANed with a friend of mine at his place using my watercooled system without any issues transporting it. i disconnected things as per usual with a PC, carried it to the car under my arm, buckled it into a passenger seat to keep it...

so far as explaining it goes: i'm seeing a zalman sandwich. think of it as one zalman 7000 cooler directly cooling the proc, and a second cooling some heatpipes attached to the proc. the fan most likely blows towards the motherboard, to get the most out of the heatpipes up top. no reason that...

dealing with the heat of even an 80W with air is tricky and/or loud. unless you can keep the hot side at a reasonable temp, the best that the pelt will do is keep your drink from warming up as fast. most likely candidate is an 80W 12V pelt. considerations: powering the thing is not...

@Borgschulze: are you selling that MCP 600 i seem to remember you using?

bigfoot is pretty good to deal with for watercooling gear. if nothing else, they usually ship fast. tygon is pricey, but the clearflex 60 that i have tried is nowhere near as nice to work with. i avoid importing from the US whenever possible. even if there are no serios duties (they have...

this stuff has some anti-microbials in it, as does hydrx. honestly, about the only reason to use hydryx in preference to any of the others available is that swiftech warrenty requires it for their gear.......not that it should make any real difference.

the regular old green stuff works just as well as pentosin.....it's just not the blue colour that many users like. so long as the rad coolant is dexcool certified (and almost all of them are, these days) they will have pretty good anti-corosive properties. from there on it's a question of...

i beg to differ....... *tighten* *tighten* *tighten* *slip* *gouge* FUCK! the thin walls on those flat tubes are good for performance, but not so sturdy when you make a stupid mistake like i did. i blame the blonde gene, BTW. though a rad shop here in town had it fixed quick and...

it's 3 and 4 that remain locked, when this is an issue at all. it's really hit and miss if you get slapped with this or not. me, i just put my drives on ports 3 and 4 from the get-go and i don't even know if my board has problems or not. i'll note that on my previous gen system, i used a...

using the fan to draw air through the rad, rather than push air through is just ever so slightly better, due to reduced turbulence in the rad fins. if it's not feasible, no biggie. it really is a small difference.

and load temps are?

so long as the rad is attached to the case, the computer remains pretty portable. so long as the rad is attached at the back of the case, it is not much of an eye sore. in normal opperation, it's simply not visable from the front of the machine. my DIY solution for mounting an additional...

have you considered using a swiftech radbox to mount a BIP2 rad with two quiet fans, as an alternate to your current fan and rad? have you considered adding a BIP rad with a swiftech radbox, in addition to your current rad? as i said, your choice of rad does not match the fan that you are...

it's almost certainly the fan/rad. the black ice xtreme series is a very lousy match for a super low noise fan like yours. a black ice pro rad would fare better. there could be additional problems from kinks, entrained air and whatnot but the rad/ is probably the first thing to deal with...

i can honestly say that aside from the lack of the very specific feature that i bought a sound card for (DDL), the revolution 7.1 sounds very good for stereo playback. MP3s sound good. it seems to makes the cymbol hits more crisp than that onboard i was using. for 128 kb/s mp3s cymbol hits...

QFT. one adition related to your final point is that in a general sense rads are trying to find a sweet spot between the performance vs restriction curve and the pressure vs flow curves of the fans that people want to use when watercooling a PC. a good rad should represent the best cooling...

you remember correctly, however whetting (how thinly it spreads) is often more important than thermal conductivity. personally, i mix AS epoxy and AS thermal compound to get a removeable adhesive.....works pretty well both in terms of thermal conductivity and removeability. if you are not...

thanks for the reply..........though i'm a bit confused how you are claiming that the codec didn't exist. i'm not talking about the dolby digital live codec, im just talking about passing the digital signal around within the card's existing codecs, even it the live standard had not yet been...

thank you for at least understanding the central thrust of my annoyance. to be clear, i DID get out my google stick before i bpught this card: http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q=m-audio+revolution+7.1+review&btnG=Google+Search&meta= all the top hits were largely positive, none of them...

as i previously mentioned, my previous generation onboard sound DID simulate surround sound and output it through the SPDIF optical or co-axial connections available. apparently this is not the rule. fine. it was what i have previously experienced for an onboard solution, so it's the least...

well, i'm able to find them in canada, but in quite a bit more than a minute, and they are a bit more dear than the M-audio i purchased. i had not previously head of auzentech, and have only ever seen/heard $20 CDN turtlebeach sound cards. i have head of creative and M-audio. i purchased...

i'm not interested in the spice channel, and i'm not talking about the spice channel. then again, neither are you, really. the web page never said that i COULD do what i purchased this card hoping that it could do, but then again it also never said that i COULDN'T do what i intended to do...

i have been using onboard audio for a good while now, and it's been okay for the most part. the sound isn't perfect, but it's good enough for my games and the music souds just fine while i'm writing or doing research using the computer. however, going from my old NF2 with soundstorm and...

that's very nice, but you still have not answered how hot they're getting! cool the drives well enough to keep them in within rated opperating limits, however you choose to go about it! how important is it to keep you drives withing their rated limits? VERY! how much cooling does that...

to fit out either the apogee or MCW6002 for use with a pelt, you would need to drill and tap holes for cold plate retention screws. swiftech sells a peltier equipped version of the MCW 500x block. having released a pelt-enabled version of the MCW60 GPU block, i would not be supprised if...

i went a totally differemt route, but i largely agree. all the same, it seems that the OP is not longer interested in this enterprise. watercooling offers pretty lousy value for your money.......so, i say, if you're going to do it, do it right. push the envelope as far as you can push it...

well.....i'm more worried about melting myself than melting the computer when it gets really hot. it was around 33C (91 F) during the day several days last week........plus the humidity........every fan in the machine on max, a box fan in the window venting heat out, and a stand fan blowing...

hard drives generally should be kept below 50C. how you cool them and to what degree is much less important than keeping them in their rated opperational range. WD rates 55 C as their upper opperating limit. you can keep drives adequately cool, without the use of fans, by simply spacing them...

honestly, if i had a good answer for that one, i would have put it up. could be the chip, could be the the motherboard, could be the software. there is so much fudge put into a thermal reading from the chip before you get to see it that you never really know just how accurate and consistant...

jeez....i should really verify my links before i paste them..... :rolleyes: as for a pair of them with a 680 watt PSU, that's 18.6 amps sucking off of your 12 V rail. i think that your PSU would most likely be hard pressed to dish that out in addition to running the rest of the system, but...

well, it's above your desired price level, but this one cools the works: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1029492097&postcount=14 this one in in your price range and takes care of only the CPU: http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX.asp i don't like the blocks that they are...