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Yes, it's a very high pitched whine. Remember how CRT monitors sometimes had a whine? It's just an EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE sound like a mosquito makes.

Strapping a second fan into the front drive bays really helps with two things. First, it greatly increases the airflow that your memory gets, especially if you use a tower-style heatpipe cooler that blows to the rear of the case. If you're overclocking your memory, doing this can negate the...

All fans on a 4-pin molex cable is fine. Don't daisychain a bunch of fans of of a motherboard fan header and you'll be ok.

That sounds relatively high for an [email protected] with a Tuniq. What are your ambient temperature (room temperature)? You are still well within safe temperatures, however.

In addition to the fact that you can upgrade to 16Gb of ram with the P45 vs 8Gb with P35.

The second fan is behind the front face, so I assume that it's either ziptied to the drive cage or the OP made some sort of bracket for it. I love this case too!

Wow, you need to reseat that cooler stat.

My old rounded cables worked for both. The nice looking end sheath doesn't actually attach to anything, so it's really a 90 degree angle. The cable/connector junction can be bent, however. They're just like regular flat cables.

Core is actually the GPU core temperature. Check with Rivatuner or something. It's not the Tjunction.

Use soapy water. It helps them slide out easier.

Thank you Galaxy! I'm in.

My IP35 Pro 1.1 chewed through a set of Crucial Ballistix as well. I switched to GSkill and have had no problems for 7 months. I wonder if it's the fault of the motherboard not liking Ballistix or if it's the classic and relatively common case of Ballistix failure.

Try them all. Sometimes you can pass one program but another one fails.

Load that thing up with fans and cut out the stamped metal grills on the top and rear fan slots. Then get a dremel and remove the plastic grilling on the top and front. That'll reduce restriction and improve airflow.

I don't think that it's a reality unless you plan on making a shelf somewhere near an air intake and just setting a large chunk on there letting it cool the air as it comes in. It's way too much trouble to use dry ice directly on a daily basis. I suppose if you had a watercooling setup, you...

Yea, look for the led power leads running from the center of the fan, down the struts, and to the perimeter of the fan case. They should be colored differently than the cables that actually power the fan motor. When you cut them, make sure that the loose ends are secured so that they won't...

When cutting CF, you have to be careful while cutting so that the edge won't splinter or delaminate. I'd suggest using a straightedge with something like a couple small vices to put some pressure on the back side of the cut (determined by the direction that the cutting blade rotates) to prevent...

Here are my results with a Q6600 G0 with a VID of 1.25v, a XigmaTek S-1283, and an Abit IP35 Pro. Reported voltages are with a Prime95 small FFT load. 3.2Ghz - 1.32v Bios / 1.26v reported 3.4Ghz - 1.42v Bios / 1.34v reported 3.5Ghz - 1.48v Bios / 1.40v reported 3.6Ghz - 1.53v Bios /...

With the CPU Cooler oriented that way, it may be best to order 2 more fans for the top two fan positions on that Cooler Master 690 case. I feel that the best solution would be to orient the cooler so that it blows towards the rear exhaust fan, but your cooler blowing up orientation can work...

Yate Loons from Petra's Tech Shop are quiet, good quality, and affordable at about 6 dollars each.

It will fit the 690, but you will not be able to mount the upper side panel intake fan. There's only about 1 cm of clearance from the heatsink to the side panel.

I will also suggest the S1283 for the price/performance ratio. If you have an extra ~30 dollars and the desire for the best, the TRUE is the one. The shroud may work, but if you have an exhaust fan in line with the heatsink, I don't feel that it's necessary. A push/pull configuration can...

With a Q6600, this program pegs all 4 cores at 100% running one instance. Perhaps the hyperthreading is throwing it off? My Q6600 at 3.4 Ghz with a Xig S1283 hits about 66, while P95 hits 60 @ 23C ambient. So, it's not quite the 10+C that others boast. I believe that the temps greatly...

Seconding a better cooler. With a Xigmatek S1283, I'm at 3.2 Ghz / 1.32v BIOS doing distributed computing 24/7 and core temps are acceptable at <60C during summer with ambient room temps of 30 degrees C. During the cooler months, with ambient temps around 24C and below, it's at 3.4 Ghz at...

The removeable mesh drive bay slots should have foam clamped to it for filtration. The front 120mm fan is mounted to a plastic frame thing that also has a fine plastic mesh filter on it. The sides aren't filtered.

The cause of the noise is the fan blades' proximity to the grill. It's so close that it causes turbulence and extra noise. Create some separation from the grill with a shim or cut the grill out and replace it with a wire grill. If you do that, it will greatly reduce the noise with the side...

It's normal. Your OS has threads running in the background which are not distributed to all cores evenly.

It sounds like the fan is bad. Return or replace it.

Are those idle temperatures or full load temperatures(Prime95 on all cores, Orthos, or OCCT)? My personal safe limit is 70 on a Q6600 G0. I make sure that it never goes above this while running Prime95. Running other non-stress test programs means that it's about 65 max.

What's room temperature? That's a crucial number to know when you are comparing temperatures to others.

He's right about not worrying about it if you're an overclocker. It's relatively common to bump the FSB frequencies up to 1600 and above on a Q6600.

HS: Xigmatek S1283 Mobo: Abit IP35-Pro Chipset: P35 Chip: Q6600 @ 3.4 This is my 24/7 speed, with ambients up to 34 degrees C.

Some manufacturers will be quieter, but pretty much all 100 cfm fans are pretty darn loud. Some are just less loud. You won't get a 100 cfm fan that sounds like a 60 cfm fan, no matter the manufacturer.

Core 0 and Core 1 are your CPU temps. Core is the GPU on my computer.