Anyone know how to access the screw hole in the middle of the motherboard? It's probably under the "Republic of Gamers" portion of the armor. The manual shows the board without the armor, but no way to get the screw in.
I tried posting at the Asus forums, but it just says to contact "Silent...
Thanks for that. I haven't updated since the 002 firmware because there were several problems with firmware updates when Crucial first came out with this drive. I'll look into that.
Also, how can you tell from the SMART screen if the drive is "ok" or not?
Here it is... everything looks maxed out. If the drive is bad, is this a warranty issue?
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1TusFWiMNy6upkIstabW19VeaRASZlFQPe1qMxMs2X0?feat=directlink
BTW, I have NO idea how to post a photo... is there an easier way?
I just reinstalled Windows 7 (no other OS's) on my Crucial C300 256GB SSD. Its the only SSD/HDD storage in the system. After getting intermittent pauses, I ran a chkdsk and found
116KB in bad sectors. If this was a HDD, I'd replace it, since that's usually a precursor to the drive failing. I...
Reads, writes, or both?
What confused me was this review at techspot.com... they show a 10s level load time vs a 17s level load time between the HyperX and Samsung 830
http://www.techspot.com/review/530-kingston-240gb-ssd/page5.html
I've looked at benchmarks everywhere and read tons... I still can't figure SSDs out.
I want the system to FEEL as fast as possible. I also want games to load as FAST as possible (yes, *I* care if it takes 10 seconds to load a level vs 15 seconds). Finally, it'd be nice to have programs...
You can request a new one, but you'll see it to some degree or another on any IPS screen. My second still has some tint issues, but not as noticeable as the first.
I have and use the Spyder 3. Here's what I can tell you - when you are done with the calibration, the software lets you toggle back and forth between no profile and the new calibrated profile. There is very little difference, which is a good thing. If you are editing photos or video (or some...
All of Samsung LED backlit screens I've ever brought home (and then returned) had an issue where black was colored blue. It's not hard to see either. Just look at the screen when it's full black and you'll see the bluish tint to it. Absolutely drove me nuts. Others may not be bothered at all.
I recently returned a PX2370.
positives - No clouding, fast, no visible ghosting or lag (to me), lighting appeared relatively even across the screen with no dramatically bright spots.
negatives - monitor tilts to one side and is NOT adjustable to fix this, LED causes the color black to look...
The only danger there is burn in, but the image is unparalleled for home video right now. Going back to the Dell monitors, my replacement arrived with far less tinting, acceptable in my book. However, there was annoying light leak in the upper left corner. Now that its calibrated and I'm using...
MkI definitely need a single "best of both worlds" solution. I returned an optx 23" for horrible bleeding and because the 120hz didn't justify the increased cost since I do not 3d for my gaming. How is the zr24w for gaming, and are you using the 22" 60hz optx or the 23" 120hz one?
Thanks, I did just that today. I had to talk to 6 different people and the process took about 40 minutes on the phone. I hope the new panel is better, but I'm very worried based on what else I've read about e-IPS panels and this one in particular.
I just returned one. White/grey were bluish on the left, pure in the middle, and orange-ish on the right. There was also a spot in the bottom left corner that had very non-traditional light bleed. It appeared to be an amber color. If I tilted the monitor back about 30 degrees, it seemed to...
Well, I HAVE a Dell U2311H that I got in today. Know how with a TN monitor, the top is darker and the bottom is lighter, like washed out? With this e-IPS panel, it's bluish on the left and orange-ish on the right. I suspect this is the "purple tint" people refer to. In any case, it's HORRIBLE...
Ok, that makes sense to me. Just a sharing the heat to a larger volume of air. The exhaust feels cooler, but the overall heat is the same.
Now that I understand it all, what's the point of cases with crazy fans and big air flow then? As long as you have enough airflow to keep your components...
I do get the idea - that the system components will give off a particular amount of heat, depending on how how much they are working of course (eg, more playing a game than in idle). I understand that nothing (short of under-volting) will change the amount of heat energy that they give off...
So I got to thinking about this... I went to home depot and found a portable air conditioner. The exhaust system is designed to be placed in a window, kinda like those fans that are built to go into windows. Point is, it has a hose with a window mounted exhaust. All I need to do now is find the...
Lol! I like that idea. I was hoping to just keep the exhaust cooler. I figure the A/C can manage it easier if it isn't so hot in the case. I think I ay try the top exhaust and see how that works. has anyone tried blocking their top exhaust to see how adverse the effects are?
I was a bit worried that what you stated might be the case. I have NO idea what the thermals for a new AMD system are, and I'm really not with the 8800 GT either.
I also should have more clearly stated what I'm considering or willing to consider:
- top intake fans in my current case. my...
I'm trying to find a way to keep case exhaust temps cooler so i don't heat my room up, but without making my case noisy. As an example, I gave up on a GTX 480 with stock heat sink because for me, that is way too noisy while playing games.
Skip to the bottom paragraph if you want to avoid...
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm inclined to think an 850 watt Corsair PSU will handle two little GTX 460s though.
I also tried removing everything I can, to no avail.
After doing some reading, I'm thinking the problem is indeed the lack of PCIe lanes. Ever since they threw SATA III and USB...
I'm running a P6X58D Premium with an i7 930, 6 GB Corsair Dominator, a Crucial C300 SSD, a Creative Titanium PCIe sound card, and a LG BluRay burner. The sound card is plugged into the white PCIe x16 slot. Power supply is a Corsair HX850.
I am using the Marvel SATA III controller, and have...
I had both. i now have the P6X58D Premium. The defining issue for me was the idle temperature of the X58 chipset. On the EVGA board it ran upwards of 60 degrees Celsius while idling in bios with nothing overclocked. The rather oversized heatsink was VERY hot to the touch. Also, the damn power...
Has something to do with installing the correct drivers. I have the Fatal1ty version w/the IO box. If you install the wrong drivers, it does just what you described. I think you need to uninstall and reinstall the drivers that include IO panel support.
I was looking (and crying at the cost) into an Asus Rampage III Extreme motherboard. One of my concerns is that my Venomous X CPU heat sink (with a mounted fan) will be blocked by the RAM. I'm assuming that ram with shorter heat spreaders will work ok, but most of the faster ram sticks now have...
I'm confused now for sure.
HardOCP just reviewed a new Gigabyte board. Here's a snippet from the conclusions section.
"So if you want SATA 3.0 and USB 3.0 to be operational on the P55-UD6 your video card with be running at PCIe x8 electrically. Given this is PCIe Gen 2, that is likely not a...
I'm trying to build a 1156 socket system with a SATA III 6GB controller onboard. From what I can find, only Asus seems to have pulled this off without gimping the video card.
I want to plug in 1 video card at x16 and one sound card at 1x. I absolutely want the sound card to be below the...
My Venomous is the exact same way: able to be rotated EASILY.
However, it does not wobble side to side or break contact with the CPU. And the core temps stay nice and cool, even under load (its on a i7 860).
Odd design, but seems to work fine.