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And did Maingear ever reply back to you as to why it would be on your restore disk in the first place? /edit And what is the risk of a similar virus being on a system John Q. Public buys after seeing a good recommendation from this article? Hopefully it was a one-time thing, but yikes...

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10825 Read and enjoy. Turns out there are a hell of a lot of factors beside large and small tubing. It really all depends on what the total system looks like as a whole rather than large or small. -OMP

First of all, you really want to run all the components in SERIES rather than parallel. Run one component right after the other rather than splitting the flow. This way you ensure the pressure and flow is uniform for the enire loop. The heat dissapated will be the same either way, so why not...

Water Wetter used in proper mixtures will give you a clear solution. I would mix 2oz of water wetter per gallon of distilled water. Don't be alarmed if it turns pink...it will turn clear after a while in your loop and give you some corrosion protection. You can get water wetter at autoparts...

mmmmm....sweet delicious spam

I would recommend the Dual Heatercore for a radiator, rather than the dual Black Ice Xtreme Chrome. The performance is better, and its 50$ (!) cheaper. Granted it doesn't look as pimp as a crome radiator, but the performance will be so much better. If you are set on a single radiator, get the...

Haha...not even close. Dangerden is the way to go. In terms of quality, cooling performance, support, price, and upgradeability, Dangerden simply can not be beat compaired to AllinOne out of the box models. The ONLY advantage to getting that coolermaster system (dont get it from frozenCPU...

Assuming im looking at the pic correctly, you installed the pump (either that or the RBX) backwards. The way you have it setup now is pump->GPU->2 OUTLETS on the RBX>radiator->bayres->pump The RBX is made to take the inlet in the center and use the 2 sides as outlets. Keep in mind, the...

Get something directly from Dangerden (www.dangerden.com) rather than FrozenCPU or someplace else. I would look at a TDX block for the CPU over the RBX (better, and less messing around with the extra outlet on the RBX), a Liang (D4) 12v pump (Hydor or Eheim if you want something cheaper), a...

A plumbing store would have high quality stuff that won't leak...that is provided you take the proper precautions such as hoseclamps or sealant etc.... As far as I know, there aren't any "built for computer" watercooling valves, and even if there were, I would still trust sturdy metal plumbing...

The right block by far. Great job with the mesh in the alternate pics, Cathar...that should make the shiny = flat argument, well...fall flat :p Just out of curiosity, what kind of camera did you use for those pics? -OMP

You can mount a radiator pretty much anywhere on a case. All you need is a dremel and some vision. For ease of use and installation, I suggest either the front of the the top.

Check out this wavemaster :p http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=53913 You can put the radiator on top of the case, or you can put it in the front after hacking out some drive mounting bays. Either way requires a bit of modding. I prefer the top because it looks much better, but...

1) Moving your computer around with watercooling is fine, provided you take some care in putting together and leaktesting the system, and transporting carefully. You want to make sure hoseclamps and waterblocks are tight. Also, when you actually go about putting the computer in the car, pack...

Ha! ;)

Well, I live in Rochester, NY...30C is really damn hot for us. Temperatures are relative anyway. So what if I call 85+ degrees in a room sweltering? :p

Ambient temps of 35C? That is nuts. 35C = 95F so that's not right. Are you saying the processor idle temps are 35C? A room (ambient) temperature of 30C? That is nuts as well. 30C = 86F which is sweltering and barely liveable indoors. Normal room temperature of 72F is a little more...

You used a bottle of coolant for your pump? That makes no sense. Can you list step by step what you did? You shouldn't have to refill your water very much, so when you have to, I would just empty/ flush the system and refill using new water and new coolant. You can pretty much buy...

That's the right mix of Zerex, so it's not a problem. Unless you are checking the mounting pressure and thermal paste application, the only thing left is the tubing. How many times have you pulled the block off and remounted with new thermal paste? Maybe you should try it one more time...

Ah, I see. Shiny radiator, just like mine. If putting a fan close to the socket dropped the temps, then I would imagine your baseline heatsink/fan temps were a little off, meaning that the fan kept the reported temp a couple or more degrees lower than it really was. Watercooling shows...

Are you sure? The pic looks like there are 2 fans (or one fan and one fancase) on the back side of the radiator. I can't see any hint of a fan on the side of the radiator with the barbs. If you have 2 functional fans, you should place them on either side in a push/pull configuration.

The tubing length may or may not be the main problem here...The fact remains that the excessive tubing is holding your system back a bit. It's not just the tubing, but the way it is setup. The pump has to pump straight up for a couple of feet before it gets to the radiator, then through long...

What a waste of nice Tygon tubing... :rolleyes: :( You probably need half as much tubing for your setup, so that may be a factor. Why not go for the internal setup? The radiator could still be mounted to the top of the case, just move the pump and reservoir to the bottom of the case...

An external setup? How long is the tubing leading in/out of the case. Long tubing = low flow = bad cooling. This may explain why your temps are so high. If your tubing is significantly longer than a similar internal setup, then you aren't likely to be getting good flowrates. Post some pics...

Is that the single Xtreme with 2 fans, or the dual Xtreme radiator with 2 fans? As far as thermal paste goes, you want a very very thin layer that evenly covers the entire core of the processor. Anything more than a thin layer lowers cooling performance, but I really don't think that's what...

No problem GuilTy, just think a bit before you post and try and explain what you actually want help with. Now, to answer your question, check out page 71 of this data sheet from AMD: http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/26633_5649.pdf The center to center...

Why not design your own blocks? There are many better designs out there for waterblocks, so don't go asking for specs and a how-to guide on a commercial product just because you don't want to plunk down the 50$ or whatever to get a real one. The TDX design took a lot of effort and testing, so...

All you have to do is jump the green wire to ground (any black wire). A paper clip works well, but I don't know how professional this has to look.

Go whichever has the cleanest and shortest tubing route. That way you keep flowrates up and temps low. -OMP P.S. Hm..... Don't care.

Yes, the bolts slide through the open fins in the heatercore and come out the other side. Then you bolt/nut/washer/whatever them down. Don't worry about putting something through the heatercore....Just be careful that you dont nic or put a hole in any of the water channels... -OMP

Well, the RBX was the first design of that type, but people complained about the dual outlet blocks and said they were more interested in using a single outlet block, hence the newer and improved TDX. Performance is about the same, but with one outlet. Popular places to mount 120mm...

Get the TDX insted of the RBX. It's a better designed block that has only one outlet, and it gives the same temps as the RBX. You also don't need a dual bayres. Bayreservoirs (and all reservoirs that fit in cases in general) do not add additional cooling power, and are bulky and...

A fan/voltage controller. Many people make their own to accomodate 18W per channel just so they can power many high speed fans and other things like pumps.

We figured that because of the small temperature gradients, it really doesn't matter if you go pump->radiator->CPU->reservoir->pump or pump->CPU->radiator->reservoir->pump Do whichever gives you the shortest tubing length.

Ah...You have to be a member of the procooling forums to see attached pics. Thats why the chart didn't show up. The graph tells you how much water flow you will have at a certain head (tubing length/pressure/restriction/etc...) At the left side we see the max head for all the pumps (max...

Socket 754 has a 2 hole mounting system. Just take a look at any 754 motherboard. The TDX will fit.

I can see how you would miss the Dangerden pump because the key lists it as "Older Liang D4". The thread and testers got this pump from dangerden directly. You must be blind (or unable to read) because the MCP650 is clearly listed in the key as well. It is brown. See? -OMP

Where the hell do you see 4 mounting holes on the TDX? Certainly not in this pic:http://www.dangerden.com/images/tdx/a64luc_800w2.jpg I hope you aren't looking at this pic:http://www.dangerden.com/images/tdx/tdx_base_400w.jpg because those 4 holes are for the waterblock top. Not for...

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=118373#post118373 Technically, it arrives at swiftech as the same pump. According to the graph at procooling, whatever swifty did to it, they made it worse than what DD has. I understand your concern over the radiator choice...I had to...

Go with a heatercore insted of that radiator. They are much cheaper and perform well. Dangerden sells one with everything you need for 25$ if I remember correctly. If you can fit it, get the dual 120mm heatercore (but this requires a bit of modding unfortunatly :( ) The mcp650 is the EXACT...