Lapping Q6600.

annaconda

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Apr 13, 2005
Messages
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*NOTE* : Please regret the date on the pictures. I took them yesterday, but forget to adjust the date in the camera.

Ok after been frusterated of not having a good contact between CPU and CPU water block and Offly high CPU temperatures even on the stock speed i decided to lap the Q6600.

There are some good info on the web how to lapp the CPU or Heatsink, and in all those procedures, people have been using water with soap or dishwasher detergent. There is a high risk involved in it, if the water goes into your CPU you are done. So i decided to go against it, and i would recomend any one to do the same.

Long story short, here is the setup of material you need for Lapping Q6600.

1. 320 Girt SandPaper (Home Depot or Lowes) $ 2.17
2. 600 Girt SandPaper.(Home Depot or Lowes) $ 2.17
3. 1500 Girt SandPaper. (Advance Auto Part or PepBoys) $ 5.17
4. 2 hours of free Time. :D (Priceless)
5. Paper towel or Cloth for cleaning.
6. Rubbing Alcohol 95%.

Total Cost = $10


GOAL : MIRROR LIKE FINISH :cool:


CPU Temperature before Lap with Monster water cooling:

Stock Idle= 40C Load= 50C

Overclock@ 3.5 Idle = 50C Load = 60C


When i started my shopping for SandPaper, i realized HomeDepot or Lowes don;t carry higher Grit SanPapers. So if you decided to lapp keep in mind you need to go to Auto Shop to get the Sandpaper higher than 600 girt, (just saved you some time).

Ok back to Lapping. First you want to mark the CPU with the marker on all four corners like you see in the picture.
101_5052355.jpg


Then you need some flat surface, e.g Glass, Kitchen Counter Top, or any thing which is pure flat and easy accessable.

I used Kitchen Counter top, as you can see in the picture i used the whole 9 x 11" 320 Girt Sandpaper sheet, and tapped it in all four conners for better control.
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Don;t forget you should cover the pin side of the CPU, so you don;t damage the pins or save it from all the material which will come off from HS.

So i started my process upside down CPU on the 320 Girt. You have to be carefull, don;t put pressure on the CPU let the weight of the CPU to do the trick. You can HOLD the CPU from the sides as in the following picture.

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You can either start moving CPU (Left to Right or Top to Bottom), but don;t do in circles, that will rub the edges more than the whole cpu, and i repeat don;t put the pressure on the CPU. Also keep in mind that rotate the CPU 90 degrees after each 30 lapps (Left to Right or Top to Bottom) that way CPU HS will be equally rub from all conners, clean the cpu after each rotation also clean the Sandpaper to reduce the residue, follow the procedure until you are done,

The following picture is the result of 15 minutes of lapping on 320girt Paper.

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Those damn conners as i suspected the cpu was concaved shape. There was a lot of work to be done, so keep doing it. The following picture is after 25 minutes of lapping on 320girt paper. Things are looking good, and the center is making contact now, but still damn those corners.

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After 1 hour of lapping on 320 girt Paper. Picture is not that clear but the whole copper is out, looks good. During the process i used the 2 x (9 x 11") 320 girt sheets, because that was the main process and you wanna change the sheets more often to get the good results.

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Now switched to 600 Girt of Paper sheet for better shine and smoothness. Same process, keep in mind no pressure on the chip and consistant rotating, other wise you will be end up with the worse CHIP then you had. So keep it up SOLDIER victory is near. ;)

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The following picture is after 30 minutes on 600 girt Sandpaper. Thats what i was talking about nice shine, but we are not done yet.

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Now the final step. Switched to 1500 girt Sandpaper, and after spending 30 more minutes results are amazing look at those pictures. What do you guys say, now i will post the results later.

My D-tek fuzion is also concave i belive from the center, so i am planning on lapping it to, but i will post the results with out lapp fuzion then see if it is worth lapping it. Make sure after all the lapping you check the surface with the blade or knife and do the light test (Light test: Hold the CPU and the Blade where the light source is, contact the blade with the CPU's surface and if you see light coming through and surface looks really uneven then you need more lapping). Clean up the CPU carefully with the Alcohol after done with lapping.

Stay tunned for results after work. Enjoy.

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RESULTS:
Fr&^kin Amazing Results:

10C DROP in temperature Idle and Load, 10C People and this is just lapping the CPU. Wow can some one please wake me up 10 C. Wohooooooooooooooooooooooooo. Every one should do it seriously this is the cheapest and easiest 10C drop you can get.

Before lapping as i stated @ 3.51

Idle: Core1: 52C, Core2: 50C, Core3: 46C, Core4: 49C,
Load: Core1: 62C, Core2: 60C, Core3: 56 or 57 C, Core 4: 60C

After lapping @ 3.51

Idle: Core1: 40C-42C, Core2: 42C, Core3: 36-37C, Core4: 38C
Load: Core1: 50C, Core2: 50C, Core3: 46C, Core4: 48-49C


Amazing that's all i can say, F*&*K Intel. They should charge me $5 extra next time and lapp properly for me.
 
how are your temps? I also lapped mine however my temps jumped 5degrees... hopefully its just the hotter weather. I tried to re-seat it though that didnt help. do you have any suggestions? I think i might try to relap it more evenly, perhaps it isnt flat.
 
how are your temps? I also lapped mine however my temps jumped 5degrees... hopefully its just the hotter weather. I tried to re-seat it though that didnt help. do you have any suggestions? I think i might try to relap it more evenly, perhaps it isnt flat.

I did not checked it. Like i said stay tunned for the results, i will post them after work.

Have you done the light test? make sure your's are evenly lapped. Like i said you need to be consistant in rotating the cpu 90 degress after 30 or so laps, so the procedure stays even. Some times you need to lap the HS too, if your HS is too much concave then it might be not making the whole contact after lapping.
 
Thanx guys, any suggestion on lapping the D-tek Fuzion ? I mean should i do it or not ?
 
Thanx guys, any suggestion on lapping the D-tek Fuzion ? I mean should i do it or not ?

If it was me yes, it makes sense. You lapped your heatspreader before your heatsink though! :D Crazy.

I refined my technique on my heatsink before I even considered doing the heatspreader. :)
 
D-tek Fuzion is already factory lapped and shinny, so i was not sure i might do it or not. I will make sure that even Fuzion is concave or not.
 
Your method is a great way to get a convex surface. Mirror-like, sure, but flatness is what really matters.

A flat surface is obtained by NEVER rotating the part being lapped and lapping in one direction only. Run the part one way across the sandpaper, pick it up, return it to the starting point, and run it over the sandpaper again in the same direction.
 
heatsync is lapped, thermalright 120. ill do the light test probably later this week and see how uneven it really is :p
 
Your method is a great way to get a convex surface. Mirror-like, sure, but flatness is what really matters.

A flat surface is obtained by NEVER rotating the part being lapped and lapping in one direction only. Run the part one way across the sandpaper, pick it up, return it to the starting point, and run it over the sandpaper again in the same direction.

Convex umm interesting. I did not get the convex surface, but i will do the light test again to make sure.
 
Yes, making it shiny looks nice but I would take flatness over shininess any day.
 
Looks great and fantastic results. :D

I don't know if everyone will get results like you got though. In your case, I think it's pretty obvious after you started removing some metal that the center of your IHS, where the majority of heat transfer should be taking place, wasn't making adequate contact with your water block.

Thanks for the pics and other details.
 
Wow, 10c dropped? I better relapped mine since I did a rush job on both my cpu and heatsink. Is your Rev B3 or G0?
 
Those are some good results. I'm thinking of lapping but I feel that it's risky to do on the CPU. Would I see any results just from lapping my heatsink (Tuniq Tower 120)?
 
Mine is B3 version, and guys it is the easiest and cheapest temperature drop you can get on your Q6600, just to make sure you have at least 2 hours of free time. :D

I would recommend to any one, trust me.
 
I think the temperatures should be better, what do you guys think ? are these temperatures are good, can you please guy post your temperatures to cross reference.

Q6600 @ 3.51

Idle = 40C
Load = 50C

do you guys think these temperatures are good, as i am using Dual MCR320 radiators with MCP655 + D-tek Fuzion just for CPU ?
 
Wow, 10c dropped? I better relapped mine since I did a rush job on both my cpu and heatsink. Is your Rev B3 or G0?

yeah, same, how much can you lap it before you start hitting the cores underneath the copper?
 
Wauw, what a nice post!

Very good idea and 10 C "ain't catpiss" (that's how we say thinks here in Hoboken).

Not a bad idea to do this with some stock aircooling radiator blocks.

Allumium the cheaper ones, copper kern - the better ones. Total copper - the best.

My experience: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1157007

TnhX for this nice post.
 
I would never lap my CPU. But in this case it looks friggin' amazing. 10 degree drop is a big one.
 
yeah, same, how much can you lap it before you start hitting the cores underneath the copper?

No clue but I believed it's at least 1mm thick. Still I would be very carefull. I would go with 1500 from there if you that worry.
 
The Fuzion comes a little bowed so it can offset for the concave shape of the chip, so it may not be necessary to lap either one. In some instances, lapping the chip might yield much higher temps because of this.
 
I lapped my Q6600 and thses are my idle temps at 3.6 Ghz

Capture.jpg


And load temps at 4Ghz

Prime2Hrs.jpg


Just did the Droop/Drop mod on my eVGA 680i so I am hoping to get 4Ghz with lower Vcore. Patienly waiting for the X38 to get my real overclocking done. I also dont see why people are worried about lapping their Procs, OCing them viods your warranty anyway....
 
I also dont see why people are worried about lapping their Procs, OCing them viods your warranty anyway....

But unless you tell someone, nobody knows you've overclocked. Lapping, however, is pretty obvious.
 
Hmm wonder if its worth lapping this qx6700....maybe try e6600 27b i got first. Thanks for the walk thru, might try it.;)
 
Tutletrax Awsome temperatures man. Can you please guide us how you get it. I mean your cooling method and harware you are using plus coolant any help would be really appreciated. I would love to have those temperatures man.
 
But unless you tell someone, nobody knows you've overclocked. Lapping, however, is pretty obvious.

Not really, there are methods the manufacturer can use to tell if you have OC'ed. There are talks of a clock speedometer on the C2D but who knows. Also, some kind of conscience must be used. If I clock my quad to 5Ghz and she pops, I wouldn't try to RMA it. Also It is crazy hard to kill a Intel chip.

Tutletrax Awsome temperatures man. Can you please guide us how you get it. I mean your cooling method and harware you are using plus coolant any help would be really appreciated. I would love to have those temperatures man.

My CPU loop consists of a Petra-topped DDC-2, HE 120.3 (YL fans 12v w/shroud), D-tek Fuzion, MC-Res Micro, Masterkleer 7/16 tubing.

GPU/Chipset loop consists of another Petra-topped DDC-2, PA 120.2 (YL Fans external mount on case with a Radbox), EK8800GTX, 2xMCW-30 (NB?SB on eVGA 680i) and a "T" line.

I am using a 5% Pentosin G11/Petra PT nuke/RO water mix that seems to do very nicely , and I have had no issue with my DDC-2's starting. There is a theory that having your DDC-2 mounted vertically helps, so that what I did. I worry about having to replace my DDC-2's with the 3.2 since it has lower performance. But all I can do is hope.

My Q6600 has a much better IHS than the E6400 that it replaced, as that one was awefull, but I thought any decrease in temps was worth the cost. I have been messing with this Quad in all different Kinds of OC's. 3Ghz is capable at 1.15Vcore and 4.05Ghz at 1.58Vcore. I really need a P35 Based board but I will wait for the X38 and see what this chip really has.

I cant wait for Winter here in Canada as I can do some low temp testing and I will have a high FSB board for Quads and I am sure I can get allot more out of this chip. I am almost positive that the 680i is holding me back.

A few pics that suck quite bad. I hate my Case and dont have the cheddar for a MM Duality modded the way I want it, so I have to put up with the Tt Armour I have. I also ran out of new Masterkleer and none in Wester Canada, so I reused some old stuff I had laying around. I also forgot to drill the neccisary holes in my case to mange cables properly. It is plain ugly ATM, but it hauls ass ;)

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Testing before it went in the case and before I got the second RAD.

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Turtletrax you and i have much more common. The things we have common.

1. 680i Sli Motherboard.
2. Q6600
3. D-tek Fuzion
3. MCW30 blocks.
4. Swiftech's Reservoir.
5. Thermaltake's Armor.
6. Yaat Loons.
 
I relapped my CPU and Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme and NO IMPROVEMENT! I realize now that it's useless if you are air cooling this. Totally useless and a waste of time.
 
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