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After taking a break for a few years...back to w/c'ing! [LOTS-O-PICS]
- Thread starter Theorie
- Start date
sprocket said:
i think you dont understand what i was trying to say. i only have a total of (4) empty 5.25" bays. while i would prefer to have only 120mm, i pretty much had to go w/ the 80mm fan units because of space restrictions.
the LL units with the 120mm fans take up (3) 5.25" bays EACH. the units i bought, with 80mm fans take up only (2) 5.25" slots each (can can still hold 3 hdd's each).
n00btard said:the TDX-in-mobo pic is really well done\\
what camera are you using?
nikon D200 body w/ vertical grip, 50mm macro sigma lens, and speedotron lighting equipment.
i have that lens that is pictured...its the 18-200mm VR lens. (love it) but i think i shot these pics with my 50mm macro.
MrWizard6600
Supreme [H]ardness
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very nice.
The fittings came today! I spent a few hours working on the project. It's actually about 90% done. Just waiting on that 2nd Koosah mounting hardware from D.D.
Here's some progress pics...
First thing I did was cut out the inside floor to make more room for running tube.
After that my friend and I drilled out a hole in the top of the case and installed the fillport. What a pain in the ass that was...I didn't have a 1" bit so we had to use a smaller bit and make about 5 holes. Then we used a grinder to get it into a nice circle shape. Fits great though.
Again, from the inside.
Here's how the case looked at this point:
I also made some brackets for mounting the radiator. I found these metal L brackets sitting around but they were too big. I cut them down, drilled new holes, painted them, and gathered up some hardware. Here's the end result. Not so pretty...but free.
Here they are bolted to the bottom of the case.
The radiator installed using those custom brackets.
From the other side; you can see the brackets here.
I found that the brackets were a little bendy because the radiator was only attached on one side. To fix this I used some motherboard risers (which happened to be the same thread as the bolts I used to attach the brackets to the bottom of the case). On top of the motherboard risers I put some rubber gaskets to provide cushion. The rad sits perfectly on them, and the rubber gromets should help to reduce vibration. Shot from the side, here is a diagram.
After that I mounted the pump.
Again, viewed from the top.
I was finally ready to hook up some tube. Pictures say it all.
Looking up into the top of the case.
Looking down into the top of the case.
Inside the bottom, behind the radiator.
I hope the Koosah mounting hardware comes tomorrow. That's all I'm waiting on at this point. After that, I can leak test.
Here's some progress pics...
First thing I did was cut out the inside floor to make more room for running tube.
After that my friend and I drilled out a hole in the top of the case and installed the fillport. What a pain in the ass that was...I didn't have a 1" bit so we had to use a smaller bit and make about 5 holes. Then we used a grinder to get it into a nice circle shape. Fits great though.
Again, from the inside.
Here's how the case looked at this point:
I also made some brackets for mounting the radiator. I found these metal L brackets sitting around but they were too big. I cut them down, drilled new holes, painted them, and gathered up some hardware. Here's the end result. Not so pretty...but free.
Here they are bolted to the bottom of the case.
The radiator installed using those custom brackets.
From the other side; you can see the brackets here.
I found that the brackets were a little bendy because the radiator was only attached on one side. To fix this I used some motherboard risers (which happened to be the same thread as the bolts I used to attach the brackets to the bottom of the case). On top of the motherboard risers I put some rubber gaskets to provide cushion. The rad sits perfectly on them, and the rubber gromets should help to reduce vibration. Shot from the side, here is a diagram.
After that I mounted the pump.
Again, viewed from the top.
I was finally ready to hook up some tube. Pictures say it all.
Looking up into the top of the case.
Looking down into the top of the case.
Inside the bottom, behind the radiator.
I hope the Koosah mounting hardware comes tomorrow. That's all I'm waiting on at this point. After that, I can leak test.
haste
Supreme [H]ardness
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thats a lot of 90 degree bends!
WarMace
Gawd
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Theorie said:
Looking at your most current "tubed" photos it looks like air will get trapped in the res' and not in the fill port. Do you plan on venting the air out the top of the res' every time you need to top it off? Or is there something I'm missing?
The additional 2 legs on the radiator look great, and so do all the photos! You would be a great asset to any marketing dept, which is what i suspect you do already, being the only person around to use a backdrop.
Very elegant rad brackets, T.
Just for future use... a 1" wood spade bit works very well on that (relatively) soft cast aluminum chassis. Just drill a small center pilot hole and the spade bit will do the rest.
That's how I mounted my Bulgin switches in the front and was surprised how well it worked.
Bit's prolly no good for wood anymore though....
@Pen3:
I wondered how long before someone tried a rad mount like yours.
I considered it but didn't follow through.
The rad exhaust should do a good job cooling off the mobo.
Just for future use... a 1" wood spade bit works very well on that (relatively) soft cast aluminum chassis. Just drill a small center pilot hole and the spade bit will do the rest.
That's how I mounted my Bulgin switches in the front and was surprised how well it worked.
Bit's prolly no good for wood anymore though....
@Pen3:
I wondered how long before someone tried a rad mount like yours.
I considered it but didn't follow through.
The rad exhaust should do a good job cooling off the mobo.
Pen3 said:Theorie, i am working on my new wc setup also and i am using a V2000B case and it looks very similar to your case. I am still cutting holes and such and ill post my pics on how i set the BIX480 later.
Edit: Well here it is
great card. i dont know if i can justify spending $800 on one video card though. i think im going to wait several months before i pick up some 8 series cards.
also, i noticed your rad is going to be blowing hot air right into the top half of your case...are you sure you want that? its really going to raise the ambient temp around your mobo & other components... why mount the fans to blow down?
WarMace
Gawd
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Theorie said:
You acheve cooler water temps when blowing in cool air from outside of the case, rather than taking warm air from inside the case and blowing it out across the radiator.
Ideally you would want to have an external radiator taking in cooler room air and blowing it into the room, but internal radiators are cleaner design.
aaaaaaaaaaandy
Limp Gawd
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i really like the way your setup is going. i think you just inspired me to get that case/liquid cooling. good job
WarMace
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aaaaaaaaaaandy said:i really like the way your setup is going. i think you just inspired me to get that case/liquid cooling. good job
Ditto, the beautiful photos really glorify water cooling.
Update time!
Well, the Koosah mounting hardware finally came. I guess the first one they shipped was lost in the mail, so they overnighted me a new one. I love DangerDen - there are such nice people over there.
I mounted the 2nd block earlier. It was a little harder than the first one. I'm not sure if it was because of the block or my card, but the holes weren't lining up exactly right. I was able to get it bolted up nice and tight, and fit the card into the setup.
To run the pump without powering the whole system, I used the jumper trick - where you connect pins 6 & 8 on the 24pin connector.
After connecting the last two fittings, I filled the system for a leak test. It was really easy to fill, no problems at all. I just unscrewed the fill port and also the res top when I was filling. For leak testing, I bought a gallon of distilled water and added some iodine.
Two mins into testing I noticed a leak on the 90degree elbow fitting that I swapped onto the top Koosah block. It seemed leak was coming though the threads.
I mixed up a batch of 5-minute epoxy and applied it to the threads. After screwing the fitting back into the block, I put a little bit of epoxy around the fitting where it meets the clear Koosah top. It said it was 100% dry within 1 hour, so it's sitting right now. 15 minutes to go before I can fill and continue the leak test.
And finally, here's a cool shot of the res...I just kind of liked the look of the bubbles.
I'm going to continue the leak test after I post this thread. I think everything else should be fine. I still need a few more hose clamps, but the tubes are actually really tight and probably don't need them. I'm just going to get a few more (for the fittings that don't have clamps yet) just to be safe.
Oh, by the way, the flow rate is AMAZING. when I had the lid off the res, water was almost shooting out the top! I'm excited to finish the leak test and get this machine o/c'ed and running.
I'm going to be out of town for the next few days - we're doing a photo shoot out on long island, but when I get back I'll post another update.
Well, the Koosah mounting hardware finally came. I guess the first one they shipped was lost in the mail, so they overnighted me a new one. I love DangerDen - there are such nice people over there.
I mounted the 2nd block earlier. It was a little harder than the first one. I'm not sure if it was because of the block or my card, but the holes weren't lining up exactly right. I was able to get it bolted up nice and tight, and fit the card into the setup.
To run the pump without powering the whole system, I used the jumper trick - where you connect pins 6 & 8 on the 24pin connector.
After connecting the last two fittings, I filled the system for a leak test. It was really easy to fill, no problems at all. I just unscrewed the fill port and also the res top when I was filling. For leak testing, I bought a gallon of distilled water and added some iodine.
Two mins into testing I noticed a leak on the 90degree elbow fitting that I swapped onto the top Koosah block. It seemed leak was coming though the threads.
I mixed up a batch of 5-minute epoxy and applied it to the threads. After screwing the fitting back into the block, I put a little bit of epoxy around the fitting where it meets the clear Koosah top. It said it was 100% dry within 1 hour, so it's sitting right now. 15 minutes to go before I can fill and continue the leak test.
And finally, here's a cool shot of the res...I just kind of liked the look of the bubbles.
I'm going to continue the leak test after I post this thread. I think everything else should be fine. I still need a few more hose clamps, but the tubes are actually really tight and probably don't need them. I'm just going to get a few more (for the fittings that don't have clamps yet) just to be safe.
Oh, by the way, the flow rate is AMAZING. when I had the lid off the res, water was almost shooting out the top! I'm excited to finish the leak test and get this machine o/c'ed and running.
I'm going to be out of town for the next few days - we're doing a photo shoot out on long island, but when I get back I'll post another update.
sowingseason
Limp Gawd
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Looks nice man. You should get a sata combo drive, less wires . Post the finishing pics when you come back! Those are some enticing pictures. Makes me want to do water cooling. I'm too poor!
. Post the finishing pics when you come back! Those are some enticing pictures. Makes me want to do water cooling. I'm too poor!MrWizard6600
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looks very nice. good clean water cooling setup. now overclock its ass and post some benchies
matsuya said:
they don't fit. theyre way too wide. i took them apart and im only using the inside bracket which actually holds the drives & the 80mm fan....
when the Lian-Li front panel is on, it will only go in this far:
they could be made to fit. it would be a pain in the ass though. you would need to be very clean about it, and cut away about 1/16 of an inch from each side of the front panel part.
for now, i'm just going to use the case's OEM 5.25" bay covers...i'll see if i can mod the lian-li ones to fit, when i have time
by the way, the fans on these little devils are SO LOUD! i dont know what RPM theyre running at, but it's really annoying how loud they are. im hooking them both up to the same channel on the controller i have...that should quiet them down.
haste
Supreme [H]ardness
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did u mod the LEDs on the rheobus? those things are briiiight. even with the resistor mod, they still put out some good light.
Sweet!Peterson said:
Haste266 said:
no not yet...i need to do that still actually...whats the best resistor to use? link maybe?
Peterson said:
hmm, might have to pick up one of these instead!
haste
Supreme [H]ardness
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double post, sorry. hardforum was acting screwy for me last night.
haste
Supreme [H]ardness
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http://www.overclockers.com/articles1141/Theorie said:
i used a 15k ohm resistor and still find the blue to be annoying
at least u can switch the colors around to the way u like it.
Sideroxylon
Gawd
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Very NICE!!! That turned out sweet. I'm not sure about the epoxy to fix your leaky elbow. I think a less permanent solution would've been better. I love your setup and that case. I have the TJ06 with my WC setup and am very happy with it...for the most part. The air circulation in the top of the case, where my psu and hdd's are, is lacking but across the mobo and gpu area is fine.
I might have to save up for the TJ07. Looks like my wc setup will fit in there nicely.
Thanks for all the great pics and great job!!!
I might have to save up for the TJ07. Looks like my wc setup will fit in there nicely.
Thanks for all the great pics and great job!!!
Theorie, heres my update, but still more work to do with wires and maybe reroute the tubes for cleaner look. thees are 11/16 od 7/16 id tubes maybe ill go to the thinner 5/8 changed all the ones.One last thing i did was change all the fittings to EK High Flow barbs and the tubes slide in easily, but has flanges on the tip to hold the tube in good i actually ran my old wc setup without and clamp for a year fine, but i use zip ties on this just cause its more expensive setup. And they look sexy
swatbat
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To the OP. Very clean. Good job.
WarMace
Gawd
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Wow, this came out looking better and better than i perdicted.
*Gasp* a sexy case without the excessive use of lights. I am amazed.
*Gasp* a sexy case without the excessive use of lights. I am amazed.
Pen3 said:Theorie, heres my update, but still more work to do with wires and maybe reroute the tubes for cleaner look. thees are 11/16 od 7/16 id tubes maybe ill go to the thinner 5/8 changed all the ones.One last thing i did was change all the fittings to EK High Flow barbs and the tubes slide in easily, but has flanges on the tip to hold the tube in good i actually ran my old wc setup without and clamp for a year fine, but i use zip ties on this just cause its more expensive setup. And they look sexy
wow dude...that's looking GREAT. thanks for sharing. i really like how its looking so far.
update on the project:
so its all back together 100%. ah its running GREAT. just started playing around with overclocking it:
2.0ghz cpu ---oc'ed--> 2.5ghz
470mhz gpu ---oc'ed--> 500mhz
1.10ghz vid ram ---oc'ed--> 1.2ghz
currently running at 30c...ambient temp in here is pretty warm - theyve got the heaters running today.(i've been working on this project at my studio...) i keep it pretty cold in my apt, so im sure ill see even better temps.
the thing is effing silent. the loudest thing is the chipset fan...guess i might replace that in the near future... other than that, i love it. also, i hooked up a timer that keeps the 120mm fans & the pump running for 5 mins after the computer shuts down. cool
i'll push it more later. dont have time to play with it right now....