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Alright, I did some tinkering today... The highest voltage that they'll start at (without fiddling with things) seems to be 13.19V (see what I get for opening my mouth before experimenting fully? ).kemist1117 said:Petra,
I have 2 of these hooked up to a dedicated comp psu (external rad box) and adjusted the pot to output ~13v which was verified with a crappy old analog multimeter, though the multimeter did say that 12v was 12v so it cant be that far off and the pumps start every time. Did you test in between 12 and 13.8 or do they just not start at 13.8? There is a slight lag from when i turn on the rad box and when the pumps turn on so maybe this becomes more of a problem at higher voltage?
Yes, that would be parallel.Mark305TBI said:When you say parallel, do you mean like a line in -> Y -> each into a pump -> Y -> rest of the loop? If you can understand what I'm saying...
I'll check my Solidworks file... gimme a little whilepenguin said:That's dead sexy Petra... is there enough clearence in the wall for us to drill and tap our own mounting holes? Maybe only 1/8" deep?
Yup... but I'm not going to be adding that to the site until after we receive barbs. Once the barbs arrive and the pre-orders are taken care of, I'll post the pump + top combo.Mark305TBI said:You gonna sell any pre-assembled, pump + top?
Well, I can ask the guys next door if they would be willing to modify some of the tops, as I don't have the necessary taps...or a drill press.SiGfever said:Alex,
Can we special order ones that have the mounting holes pre-drilled? I have an AlphaCool top now and I require the mounting holes for my choice of mount. I REALLY want one of yours but the mounting holes will be a deal breaker.
You are "Da Man"!Petra said:Well, I can ask the guys next door if they would be willing to modify some of the tops, as I don't have the necessary taps...or a drill press.
I was thinking of doing another version that's larger (like the Alphacool tops) to include this feature... but, if they're okay with it, I may not have to... heh
Danger Den introduced a G1/4 version of their high-flow fittings a few months ago because the P-Seal fittings are crap.penguin said:I have to wonder... the DangerDen High Flow fittings were 9/16"-18, and the EK barbs are G1/4". When I looked at my High Flow fittings next to the new Perfect Seal fittings (Also G1/4"), it was clear the High Flow was much bigger and wouldn't fit in a G1/4" hole. Is there some sort of G1/4" High Flow fitting I don't know about?
Petra said:Danger Den introduced a G1/4 version of their high-flow fittings a few months ago because the P-Seal fittings are crap.
Oh, ok. That's pretty much awesome I should probably get a couple for my chipset block then. A pump with one of these tops is definitely gonna be on my Christmas list this year; being 16 and not having a job sucks.Petra said:Danger Den introduced a G1/4 version of their high-flow fittings a few months ago because the P-Seal fittings are crap.
penguin said:Oh, ok. That's pretty much awesome I should probably get a couple for my chipset block then. A pump with one of these tops is definitely gonna be on my Christmas list this year; being 16 and not having a job sucks.
Let me know when you do.Petra said:Yup... but I'm not going to be adding that to the site until after we receive barbs. Once the barbs arrive and the pre-orders are taken care of, I'll post the pump + top combo.
BillParrish: It's not a limitation of the software, you can do pretty much anything with Solidworks. You have to keep in mind that this is a machined part and, as such, the more intricate and complex it is, the more it costs (per unit) to make. Additionally, there may be some tooling issues with that sort of outlet, depending on how gradual the diameter increase was. If one were to manufacturer these via multi-part injection-molding, then those sorts of design details wouldn't really pose a problem. My goal was to design something that performed well and wouldn't be overly expensive to machine.
Please read the post above you....Adidas4275 said:anyone know what the 10w impeller looks like? Mine is redish orange, i have the alphacool top so i dont even need to pot the top
el rolio said:18W version has a red-orange impeller. pop the top n see
He wanted to know what color impeller the 10w version had in case it was maybe just straight red or something close to the 18w version. Sheesh, don't bite his head off.thunderstruck! said:Please read the post above you....
The impeller on the 10W DDC-1 is black.Adidas4275 said:anyone know what the 10w impeller looks like? Mine is redish orange, i have the alphacool top so i dont even need to pot the top
In terms of subjective, comparative loudness, I'd say the following:RickyJ said:All of the pictures I've seen of the 18W models have the wattage printed on them, next to the model information. I'm not sure if the 10W versions have their wattage printed as well.
Great top, Petra! My MCP600 has made some nasty sounds a couple times in the last few weeks (lasting about an hour), despite everything looking fine inside when I cleaned it a few months ago. I've been thinking of moving to something quieter recently, though moving my case under my desk has helped that somewhat (can only hear airflow from rad fans at top of case now). The 18W DDC is supposedly louder than the 10W version, but I haven't read any conclusive comparisons with the 50Z/MCP600, what's your take on it?
Well, getting tubing over them is a real pain (especially 7/16" ID tubing) and they have a nice, big, flat face for water to go crashing into, which results in more turbulence at the barbs and a slightly higher pressure drop. (granted, that was the quick, oversimplified version... heh)What's the problem with the P-Seal fittings? Is getting the tubing over them the only issue? A search on here only brought up the tubing fit issue, as far as I could see.
RickyJ said:Holy crap, I didn't think that the D5 was that much quieter than the D4 at full.