Project: Beast III

FedEx showed up this evening bearing goodies! When the delivery guy stepped out of the truck with this box I was thinkin "NOOO not another case". Luckily, it was just the shipping box FrozenCPU used to ship the radiators. Sorry about Flower, my cat. You know what they say about curiosity.

KOMU001.jpg

KOMU002.jpg

KOMU003.jpg


FrozenCPU does a reasonable job of protective packing
(there better be something in there)
KOMU004.jpg


No fancy lableing here, just plain-Jane white boxes
KOMU005.jpg


Bubble wrapped for protection
KOMU006.jpg


Freedom!
KOMU007.jpg


Mounting rails
KOMU008.jpg

KOMU013.jpg


Top view! Sweet looking eh?
KOMU009.jpg

KOMU010.jpg


Here are the mounting rivets (these look like the same ones used on some fans)
KOMU011.jpg


These little things are not going to work. Bring on the screws!
KOMU012.jpg


The twins! (Fuk-me and Fuk-yu)
KOMU014.jpg


These suckers are just shy of two feet tall!
KOMU015.jpg

KOMU016.jpg


And just a hair less than 15 inches wide!
KOMU017.jpg



Here are some perspective shots of the radiator next to my gutted Lian-Li PC-V2100B
KOMU018.jpg

KOMU019.jpg

KOMU020.jpg



I promised to give you the weight so I pulled out the handy scale. I got on without the rad and it said 173.5 lbs (it is only accurate to a half pound). I then grabbed the rad and stepped on. It said 192.5 lbs! Holy shiznit! 19 pounds! Give or take. Times two is roughly 38 pounds! Most people's whole systems dont weigh that much!

I think I'm gonna have to re-do the wheels that came with the case. This thing is gonna weigh a ton (not quite but close).

Stay tuned!

Steven
 
steven .. real quick question .. when u mounted the rad on the exhaust fan .. would it have fit find if u mounted the 120 inside the case .. then there would be no need for the custom acrylic mount ??

cuz im thinking of doin this so i dont have to mod my case .. running a pa160 down on the intake and the bix on the exhaust ?
 
jetjaguar said:
steven .. real quick question .. when u mounted the rad on the exhaust fan .. would it have fit find if u mounted the 120 inside the case .. then there would be no need for the custom acrylic mount ??

cuz im thinking of doin this so i dont have to mod my case .. running a pa160 down on the intake and the bix on the exhaust ?

The only way you could do it would be to relocate the mounting holds in the case. Since it's a tight fit anyway, I don't know. I think it really depends on what your mobo has in that general area.
 
Just a little update. The HDD mounting rails have really sharp edges (and some wicked burrs, see pic). I'm going to take them to work and smooth all the edges. I'm planning on having these anodized.

Here is the rail mount
HDDrail001.jpg



Here are those sharp edges and burrs (you could hang yourself from that thing)
HDDrail002.jpg



Departed and ready for TLC
HDDrail003.jpg


Stay tuned!

Steven
 
On Beast II, my piece of s*!t Hydor L30 pump wouldn't always start so I added a flow meter to the loop. The Hydors were scrapped for the 12 volt DC pump @ DD when it came out. I'm planning on using four of these pumps in Beast III. I'm still unsure of where I want to mount them.

fm001.jpg

fm002.jpg

fm003.jpg

fm004.jpg


Here are the fittings installed (sans sealant)
fm005.jpg

fm006.jpg


Super macro mode on my camera. Cool eh?
fm007.jpg




Stay tuned!

Steven
 
4 pumps ? jesus .. i gotta see how you are gonna fit all this into the 2100b .. im having a hard time finding a rad to cool my sli 512mb gtxs and my cpu .. and how i can mount it
 
19LBs minus the water! HO DAYM that things is gonna be HEAVY lmao

looking great :D

I was PRAYING it was an actual case... god i can dream.. lol that wouldda been awesome free v2000 /me dies lol
 
0mega said:
19LBs minus the water! HO DAYM that things is gonna be HEAVY lmao

looking great :D

I was PRAYING it was an actual case... god i can dream.. lol that wouldda been awesome free v2000 /me dies lol

Thanks, and it is a v2100.

Steven
 
I have mentioned this before, but if you haven't been reading the posts in this thread, you should know that I'm trying to keep this build as future proof as possible. I have yet to buy any electric components for Beast III.

I was itching to get the PCP&C 1K watt beast and making it modular, but I figured I'd wait for the 2K modular model! LOL. I suppose the very first electric components will be the four 12 volt pumps from DD. Those will be ordered soon. I need to figure out where I'm gonna stuff them.

Steven

ps I just graduated to [H]lite with this post! Yea!
 
Stevennoland said:
I have mentioned this before, but if you haven't been reading the posts in this thread, you should know that I'm trying to keep this build as future proof as possible. I have yet to buy any electric components for Beast III.

I was itching to get the PCP&C 1K watt beast and making it modular, but I figured I'd wait for the 2K modular model! LOL. I suppose the very first electric components will be the four 12 volt pumps from DD. Those will be ordered soon. I need to figure out where I'm gonna stuff them.

Steven

ps I just graduated to [H]lite with this post! Yea!

i thought PCP&C hated modular?

Also, have you seen this kit at frozencpu?
http://www.frozencpu.com/psu-111.html
 
l0cke said:
i thought PCP&C hated modular?
I remember reading something to that extent but: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=116&products_id=1735
The warranty for this power supply is 5 years from PC Power and Cooling. Performance PC's workmanship has been certified as Grade A by PC Power and Cooling and therefore we can now offer you their fully warranty on our modified power supply. We are very pleased to receive this certification and to offer you this very fine product customized to your wishes.
 
jetjaguar said:
any updates ?

Unfortunately, no. I work full time M-F, so I don't have a lot of free time during the week. I am however going in early and using my lunch time to work on projects for Beast III. Right now I'm working on replacing the fittings for the reserviors. Earlier in this thread I posted a picture of the aluminum hex stock and a crude drawing of the fittings. I will post some pics of this process soon. Thanks for your interest.

Steven
 
Jazz said:
Wow, this is gonna be a beast indeed when its done.

*subscribed*

Thanks! Sorry I haven't posted anything. I am still busy working on parts for Beast III. I'll have a tutorial 'how-to' when I'm done. Thanks for hanging in there.

Steven
 
Sorry to keep you all waiting. I have been going in to work early and using my lunch time to work on stuff. This is a type of 'how-to" to make your own fittings. This assumes you have access to a lathe and the know how. Sorry I don't have pics of 'in-process' but you'll get the idea.

Early in this thread I posted a crude drawing of the fitting I had planned. The end result is a little different.
bpfitting001.jpg


Here is the stock I'm going to use. This is aluminum 6061-T651 3/4" hex stock.
alum004.jpg


Here are the crummy plastic fittings that came with my reserviors
fitting001.jpg


Here is the stock rough cut to length
fitting002.jpg


This is the end that will get the threads and the o-ring groove
fitting003.jpg

fitting004.jpg


This is the hose barb end
fitting005.jpg


Here are the threads. 1/2-18 threads.
fitting006.jpg


Close-up of the face groove
fitting007.jpg


Here is the hole rough drilled thru. You can kinda make out the rough finish on the internal diameter
fitting008.jpg


Close-up
fitting009.jpg


Here is the ID after I bored them open to size. 3/8" ID.
fitting010.jpg


After de-burring
fitting011.jpg

fitting012.jpg


Here is the lot of them
fitting013.jpg


Here are the silicone o-rings
oring001.jpg


Close-up
oring002.jpg


Here is the o-ring placed in the fitting
fitting014.jpg


Here are the fittings in the reservior.
Xres003.jpg


Close-up's
Xres004.jpg

Xres005.jpg

Xres006.jpg

Xres007.jpg


That's all there is to it! Easy eh. Just a note for anyone who is a machinist: I single pointed all the threads on the fittings using a manual lathe. Not an easy task mind you.

The next update is going to be good. Get a real good look at the wheels on the V series of the Lian-Li cases. I'm doing my own.

Stay tuned!

Steven
 
Wow!!! dude! i think i just wet myself :D


Your project is lookin damn fine!
 
neat project.

For some reason I thought this thread was called "Project: Breast III" when I first saw it. I'm sure if it had actually been called that, it would have been a much better mod. ;)

keep up the good work.
 
ChingChang said:
neat project.

keep up the good work.

Thanks! I'll try. I'm not one to half-ass anything. Hence, my time line for finish is by X-mas of this year. This is subject to change though.

Steven
 
Here is the update on the replacement wheels I am making. Since I am adding a LOT of weight to this system, beefing up the wheels seemed like a good idea.

Here are the wheels that come with the case. The pictures show the locking wheels mounted in the front. The case comes with them located in the back (dumb).
wheel021.jpg


In back
wheel022.jpg


Bottom views
wheel019.jpg

wheel020.jpg


Here is a quick 'how-to' to make your own wheels. First, the material. Aluminum 6061-T6511. The material has been squared up to 6" x 1.5" x 1.25"
wheel001.jpg


Then I drilled the holes for the screws.
wheel003.jpg


Close-up
wheel004.jpg


Here is a comparison.
wheel005.jpg


Close-up
wheel006.jpg


Next, I drilled counter-bores for the screw heads. I think I left about .070" of an inch land
wheel007.jpg

wheel008.jpg


Next I drilled and reamed 1/2" holes for the corners of the pockets
wheel009.jpg


Pockets
wheel010.jpg

wheel011.jpg


I then drilled a hole for a 1/4" pin. This pin will be used to prevent the wheels from turning (kind of like a parking break)
wheel012.jpg


I then drilled 3/4" holes into the ends, and then counter-bored the pockets for the bearings
wheel013.jpg

wheel014.jpg


Here are the bearings I'm using. They are double sealed and can hold about 650 pounds each. The max RPM is 6500 I think. The case would have to be doing about 80 MPH to hit that. The size of the bearings is 7/8" OD, 3/8" ID, and about .35" thick
bearing001.jpg

bearing002.jpg

bearing003.jpg


Here are the axles I will be using. They are hardened and ground to a 12 micron finish. They are 3/8" diameter by eight inches in length. They should be perfectly straight. I think the variance in tolerance is like .0001 inch per twelve inches (or something like that).
axle001.jpg


Here is a test fit of the bearings and axles.
wheel015.jpg

wheel016.jpg

wheel017.jpg

wheel018.jpg


I was originally going to make the wheels out of aluminum, but a quick search in my toolbox turned up some scrap titanium. Cool! The wheels are not finished yet. I will post some pics when I get them done. Wheel diameter is 1.5" and one inch thick.
titum001.jpg

titum002.jpg


holes for axles
titum003.jpg

titum004.jpg


I was orginally going to use a 1/4 pin to lock the front axle. Into the project, I realized I had put the hole in the wrong place. So I made a bushing to relocate the hole. Here is the oversized hole where the bushing will go.
wheel027.jpg


Here is the bushing. The large half-hole in the center is to clear the axle, and the other half-moon cutouts are to clear the screw holes. This bushing is made out of a steel called A-2. It is hardened by heating it up and then letting it cool. Ater the hardening, I will hone the ID to a 1/4" and then grind the the OD to fit the block after anodize.
bushing001.jpg

bushing002.jpg


Here are some shots comparing the stock wheels with mine.
wheel031.jpg


In this pic the original wheel uses a plastic bushing and the material is about a 1/16" thick
wheel032.jpg


Original wheels
wheel034.jpg


My wheels
wheel033.jpg


Time for a quick install. The wheels have to still be drilled and tapped for a set screw to secure them to the axles. The axles also have to be ground for the lock pin and flats for the wheel secures.

This is a shot of the bottom of the case where the wheels will go
bottom001.jpg


Front bracket
wheel023.jpg


Back
wheel024.jpg


Installed!
wheel025.jpg

wheel026.jpg

wheel028.jpg

wheel029.jpg

wheel030.jpg


I'm still unsure of what color I'm going to have the housings anodized. Some opinions?

Stay tuned!

Steven
 
With all the water that fits inside those 2 radiators, are you sure you still need a reservoir?

Cool wheels (Titanium! :D )
 
that is one of the best work i have ever seen.

cant wait to see the rest of this project

how about red ? for the housings ? to match the rads ?
 
Ozone77 said:
With all the water that fits inside those 2 radiators, are you sure you still need a reservoir?

Cool wheels (Titanium! :D )

Thanks! The res isn't just something to hold more fluid. The way I have my flow planned makes them a nessesity(sp?). Keep tuned for the wheels. I have a few more things to do to them.

Steve
 
jetjaguar said:
that is one of the best work i have ever seen.

cant wait to see the rest of this project

how about red ? for the housings ? to match the rads ?

Thanks for the kudos. I thought of red, but the company that does my anodizing might not be able to do a good color match. I'll keep you all posted.

Steven
 
Here is a photo 'from-start-to-finish' for the wheels.

This is 6AL-4V titanium 1.5" diameter cut to almost one inch long
titum001.jpg

titum002.jpg


Here is the .375 hole for the axle
titum003.jpg


The lot
titum004.jpg


Here is a shot of the six 7/16" holes
titum005.jpg


Close-up
titum006.jpg


The lot
titum007.jpg


Here is a close-up shot of the tapped hole to hold the set-screw to affix the wheel to the axle
titum010.jpg


Here is the design for the front. It reminds me of a fancy car rim
titum011.jpg


Here is the side of the wheel that will butt up against the bearing.
titum012.jpg

titum013.jpg


Here is the rubber tread that originally came with the Lian-Li wheels. The fit is like glove
titum014.jpg

titum015.jpg


The lot
titum016.jpg


Comments? Gripes?

Stay tuned.

Steven
 
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