Project: Ignis -=- Watercooled MicroATX

rogue_jedi said:
that finish looks pretty sweet, but i don't really understand what is going on with the flames there.

in the last pic, its just a pic of the paint that started to kinda peel... so i have to redo the whole paint job again :(
 
ClayDo said:
flames need more red in them.. :D

no no they dont clay.... heh, i just wanted a slight hint of red in them, not a full out fade... their is plenty of red on the inside anyways :D

on a side note, why is my dsl not working... i have it here on the desk with 4 50ft cords running downstairs to my garage.... :p ;)
 
one question I don't remember seeing in the thread is don't you think there is going to be restricted airflow for the rad? from what it looks like you will have 1/3 to 1/2 blocked with the four port design...it looks killer but do you know how it will perform?
 
gigglebyte said:
one question I don't remember seeing in the thread is don't you think there is going to be restricted airflow for the rad? from what it looks like you will have 1/3 to 1/2 blocked with the four port design...it looks killer but do you know how it will perform?

i plan on putting the fan inbetween the frame and the front bezel thus the majority of air will be sucked through the holes, but this will allow air to be sucked from the bottom and what not so that there will be less of a chance for dead spots...
 
When I first saw your project case I though "damn, why would you use such an ass nasty old case to try and make it look good" but now, now I see where you are going, and you are doing an awsome job.

Huge (y)
 
OMG thats realy all i look for now is old ass cases. They are like a blank canvase just waiting to be turned into a beutiful work of art :D

JEEVES
 
sorry for the lack of updates i am having a SEVERE lack of financial backing for this case (ie i dont have a job, and have a $188 ticket to pay)

i will continue working on the paint, but its giving me more trouble than ever. should have it done by (most likely) next wednesday

edit: the paint that is
 
Expect to have some more noise because of the air coming from different directions on the front there.

I modded a case for a friend of mine, which had a plate with an 80mm hole in it, suspended (with standoffs) 1/4"-1/2" away from a 120mm fan. It is significantly louder because it is trying to pull air through the 80mm hole and the gap between the case and plate. I guess it doesn't help that the 120 was one of the ys-tech 132cfm fans either.
 
Alrighty guys, ive gotten A TON OF WORK DONE... well actually all of it... And im now at Quakecon, and the case is finished...

after making a quick trip to fry's i descovered a fan shroud that converts a 120 to an 80. comparing the 60+ cfm of my old 120, and the 30+/- cfm of a standard 80, i opted for the 70+/- Thermal Take smart fan II.
1.JPG

after the first coat of paint on the shroud... it was a nasty uv blue...

2.JPG

a pic of how close the ATX connector and the shroud are... or should i say how much they touch.

3.JPG

Here is the fan, shroud, and radiator all combined and put together to gt the complete radiator assembly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Next came the paint.
4.JPG

After the same steps as before, draw, cut, and place the mask, i painted the flames onto the last panel. they came out relitively good.
----------------------------------------------------------
The little things now...
5.JPG

Hard drives, yes DRIVES, shoved into one bay...

6.JPG

instead of trying to glue screws for the 3 fans, i opted to buy a 3 fan bay cooler, and use it.

7.JPG

being the wire whore i am, i cut a large yet small rectangle in the case to run all the wires with out being seen. this includes the wire for the pump, the ide cables and all necessary cords for fans, lights etc.

11.JPG

because of the res, and its new location (it wasnt getting water to the pump, so I constructed an adapter to have it standalone) i could not place a fan in the fan hole i originally cut. SOOOO instead i made it look like there was a fan there by using wire mesh, and a fan grill. results were very satisfiying...

8.JPG


9.JPG

As a nice final little touch, i decided to make a logo for the 3.5 inch bay.

10.JPG

and a night shot.

and here is a wallpaper i made here at quakecon waiting for the network to come back online.

wall.jpg


and 1600x1200
http://home.comcast.net/~james.kelley2/wall2.jpg
 
very nice:eek: though thats the first time i've seen someone use a 80->120 adaptor to use a smaller fan... w/e:p

good job hiding wires, too.
 
hehe, im a wire whore... and the 80->120 was needed because of the ATX power plug...

i added a cold cathode in the front to livin it up a bit here at qcon...

front-done1.JPG

front-done2.JPG


i think it looks great, and makes the logo really stand out...

YAY its finally finished completely
 
awesome job, appearance-wise.

a little too crammed together inside for my comforts...

one question though: how do you open the cd-rom with no button?
 
luckily windows has a "Eject" feature for cdroms hehe... i plan on eventually adding an eject button
 
It does? I had a hard time trying to find out how to make an assignable shortcut key that does eject. Finally someone over at the Bit-tech forum wrote a little command line app. So now I have it assigned to a button on my remote. :D
 
That looks great. Makes me look at my mATX and get ideas. Good job.


CrimandEvil said:
It does? I had a hard time trying to find out how to make an assignable shortcut key that does eject. Finally someone over at the Bit-tech forum wrote a little command line app. So now I have it assigned to a button on my remote. :D

Think you could share the love and give us a name/link to the program?
 
CrimandEvil said:
It does? I had a hard time trying to find out how to make an assignable shortcut key that does eject. Finally someone over at the Bit-tech forum wrote a little command line app. So now I have it assigned to a button on my remote. :D

if you right click on the cd-rom icon there is "Eject" option...

Where over at bit-tech did you find this command line thing?

that could be very usefull...
 
3N1GM4 said:
if you right click on the cd-rom icon there is "Eject" option...
Oh that, that was too much a hassle IMO. Damn, I'll have to go through and find the link for you guys.
 
and how do you get it on your remote... i got a remote i built (the reciever) and am using IRAssistant
 
nice mod dude , i like it . but ,

3N1GM4 said:
Update

i dont like to wetsand with anything less than 2000 grit... thats right 2000 this way i have maximum control of how deep i go... yes it may take 2 more minutes to get to where i want to be, but there is hardly any risk of running into bare metal...

just wondering how long u think that the paint is going to stay keyd to your case with finishing your primer in 2000 ? and then painting .
the max you really want to key the surface with is at the highest grade 800 , even then you run the risk of fall off .
fair enough that you were wanting to obtain a nice finish in your paint , but you only need to finish in 400 , rub throughs are easly fixed with a very light dust coat to effected areas.

but as i said b4 , great mod dude =]
 
3N1GM4 said:
and how do you get it on your remote... i got a remote i built (the reciever) and am using IRAssistant
Never used the that app (IRAssistant) so I wouldn't know how. I have a Streamzap remote that has some programmable buttons so I just make a shortcut and assign it to that button. Another way would be to to use Girder.
 
huren said:
nice mod dude , i like it . but ,



just wondering how long u think that the paint is going to stay keyd to your case with finishing your primer in 2000 ? and then painting .
the max you really want to key the surface with is at the highest grade 800 , even then you run the risk of fall off .
fair enough that you were wanting to obtain a nice finish in your paint , but you only need to finish in 400 , rub throughs are easly fixed with a very light dust coat to effected areas.

but as i said b4 , great mod dude =]

400 are you nuts, Have you ever painted anything? And to let you know that paint is not going anywhere, you should have seen how many times he painted, sanded, painted, sanded. And he didnt sand the primer with 2000, just the paint. Oh and while he wasnt looking, i tried to scratch it and it didnt even scratch. So I think this paint job is ok, thanks

JEEVES
 
JEEVES/whohasmyname? said:
400 are you nuts, Have you ever painted anything? And to let you know that paint is not going anywhere, you should have seen how many times he painted, sanded, painted, sanded. And he didnt sand the primer with 2000, just the paint. Oh and while he wasnt looking, i tried to scratch it and it didnt even scratch. So I think this paint job is ok, thanks

JEEVES


you douche lol
 
JEEVES/whohasmyname? said:
400 are you nuts, Have you ever painted anything?

JEEVES


lol , thats really all i ahve to say too that . i ment no offence in what i said , but ive been painting cars for neally 10 years now . so i think i would sort of have an idea on what is required in painting ( i 940hs , base coat + 2k clear all my cases ).
in my professional opinion , 400 is what your should be applying your colour too .

well as i said b4 i still like the case , paint etc. _b
 
wow very nice work

also very inspiring too

i cant wait til i get my RTX from black and decker... did you use your dremel on cutting the case on your lap??
 
yeah, it was kinda nerve racking putting it that close to my goodies, but it was the best/easiest way for me to have the amount of contol i wanted...

thanks for the kind words...
 
wow.
that's amazing. this really makes me want to mod one of my old shitti cases. :)

supreme victory to you sir.
 
Back
Top