The WC Thread: You got questions, we got answers!

What about mixing 3/8"ID tubing with 1/2"ID tubing? Lets say part of the loop is 3/8" and the rest is 1/2". Is that a good idea or it does not matter really? I mean, what are the potential implications of mixing 2 different IDs within the same loop?
 
I want 1/2"ID pipes but there is a problem - the pass thru to the rad outside had 3/8"OD so I am forced to go down... what do you think I should do about it? I mean I can't connect the 1/2"ID pipe to a 3/8"OD fitting, it'll be leak-prone
 
Well, you have a few options:

1. Put new fittings on your reservoir

2. Make your whole system 3/8" ID

3. Get 3/8" to 1/2" ID converter things for your res, and leave the rest of your loop 1/2" ID. Danger Den sells them, and I would imagine you could find them at McMaster Carr as well.
 
I have got a hydor l20 a blck ice pro 120. On my cpu I use a maze 4 block and I was wondering which pump would give me the best performance try and keep the price below $60 please. I'm thinking of getting a via aqua 1300 because it is a cheap pump with fairly high performance. My temps are pretty high with the hydor and I believe that low resistance blocks work better with more powerful pumps right?
 
Hi, I'm new to WC and I want to put dual heatercore in my system and just wonder if the eheim 1048 has enough power to deal with that. Also, if anyone has experience with the eheim 1250, I just want to know the noise difference between the 1250 and the 1048. thanks
 
For my setup I have...

-Blocks-
RBX CPU Block
Maze 4 Chipset Block
Maze 4 GPU Block

-Rad-
Black Ice Xtreme with 1/2" fittings

-Pump-
Hydor L35

-Tubing-
10ft 1/2" tygon

I drew out how I was going to have this layed out, but everytime I try to connect the tubes it just looks messy. I also don't quite understand the flow of the water either.

Can someone help me out?

Setupblank.jpg


:) thanks
 
My setup is external, but the layout should help you out. I suggest:

pump--->RBX--->Maze4 GPU--->Maze4 Chipset--->T line--->Rad--->back to pump

Here is a good way to run the tubing to get strait runs:

layout.jpg


The top line is the inlet from the external box and starts the loop. After the RBX the lines come together and go into the NV68 block (yours would go to the Maze4 GPU block), then to the Maze4 chipset block, and back out the bottom line.

Hope that helps.
 
Another question I didn't see answered:

Does the size of the tubing have any effect on the cooling at all? Does 1/2"ID tubing cool better than 3/8" tubing? Or is there no effect?

Thanks.
 
Hinokagutsuchi said:
Another question I didn't see answered:

Does the size of the tubing have any effect on the cooling at all? Does 1/2"ID tubing cool better than 3/8" tubing? Or is there no effect?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

There has been a big debate on this in several forums. The answer is yes it does. But I beleive the general consensus is that anything below 3/8" is not really acceptable, 3/8" is adequate, but 1/2" is better.
 
PsycoGeek said:
There has been a big debate on this in several forums. The answer is yes it does. But I beleive the general consensus is that anything below 3/8" is not really acceptable, 3/8" is adequate, but 1/2" is better.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the answer.

I also remembered the other question I had. I've had a lot of questions because I've never done WC before and want to know as much as possible before dropping the cash on a setup. Anyway. I've seen it said a lot that with watercooling, you cannot go below ambient temperature. It's also not possible to go below ambient temperature with fans, is it? I would be WC'ing mainly for the fact that it's quieter than the fans I have now, but even so, I would hope that my temps are going to be someone near the same that they are now[in the neighborhood of 30-40C]
 
The only way you can go below ambient temps is with special setups such as phase change cooling (refrigeration) or by using something like a refrigeration unit to chill the water.

You should be able to achieve the same temps with water cooling. If you do not overclock a slight increase in temps is acceptable though. With the right setup you should be able to achieve both quiet and good temps.
 
Should I worry about whether or not my rad is placed above or below my Res? Or should I just use a t-line, I currently have a swiftech bleed and fill kit but it doesn't work properly for me and I have a bit of air I can't get out of my system
 
My opinion is that if you have a resivoir, the top of it should be above the radiator to act as an air trap. the whole thing doesn't have to be above it, just part of it. All of my res ia above the rad however. The reason for having a res it to feed the system enough water as air bleeds out (and in larger systems such as in a car, to act as a place for heating and expanding fluid to collect so it is not wasted, and so that when the fluid cools and decreases in volume, there is a supply availiable to feed the system so it doesn't run dry and circulate air). Preference between "T" line and res is entirely up to you. I prefer the res, but I have an external system and plenty of room for it.

If you are having trouble with air bubles there are two things you can do to get rid of them. The first is to gently roll the system around while it is running, which will force trapped bubbles to move and end up in the res where it belongs. The second is to leave the pump run constant for a day or two to allow the flow to hopefully push out the bubbles. The best thing to do though is both. Start with rolling the system around, then leave it on overnight, and then roll it around again for good measure.
 
does n'tmercury have better thermal disappation than water? why not try using this to cool a normal setup
(yes I know this is crazy and potentially fatal and most likely illegal depending on local chemical waste laws)
 
Suicidal Insanity said:
does n'tmercury have better thermal disappation than water? why not try using this to cool a normal setup
(yes I know this is crazy and potentially fatal and most likely illegal depending on local chemical waste laws)
Click to expand...

Because of the reasons you stated, and more. Mercury is also an excelent conductor of electricity, and even a very tiny leak would fry your rig, and the cleanup could potentially poision you. :eek:
 
PsycoGeek said:
Because of the reasons you stated, and more. Mercury is also an excelent conductor of electricity, and even a very tiny leak would fry your rig, and the cleanup could potentially poision you. :eek:
Click to expand...
if it had a leak the last thing I would be worried about is my rig :) I just want to verify that it would indeed be a better heat conductor.
Also you get the bonus of being able to measure temperature easily, just make a thermometer like resorvoir, as mercury expands with temperature :)
 
Mercury is exceptionally poisonous. If you spilled much of it on your carpet, you'd have to replace it, and probably never let children or pets in the room again.

It also will vaporise at room temperature. Mercury vapor is really bad.

Here's a quick search. Read this if you want to be more afraid of mercury. These procedures are not particularly "overdoing it".
http://www.workcover.nsw.gov.au/Publications/OHS/SafetyGuides/mercspill.htm
 
I'm planning on going with water soon, and I was thinking of using a T-line because it seems most practical.

Now, what exactly goes at the end of the T-line? How do you cap it off to avoid leaks/evaporation? I've messed with PVC before and used end caps for those, but what kind of caps are available for tubing?
 
Is Redline Water Wetter still a product? I used to see it all over the place, now none of the local shops (Pep Boys, Checkers, Autozone, ect) carry it any longer.

It's a long shot, but anyone know where to buy this stuff in Vegas? Or maybe an alternative (in person).
 
I have a question on the Maze 4 waterblock. I have it installed on my Asus A7N8X-E motherboard, and I wasn't sure if I should get the big mounting plate and clamps, so I didn't[the motherboard has holes near the proc and it looked as if the bolts would fit fine. As it turns out, they do fit, but I want to make sure that it will cool properly without the other hardware. Should I purchase the other stuff, or will it work fine like it is now?

Pics:

http://www.studiopmg.net/images/imagedump/Mobo1.jpg
http://www.studiopmg.net/images/imagedump/Mobo2.jpg

I do feel kind of stupid for asking, but I guess I'd feel more stupid if it exploded. =/


Edit: Also, how much water wetter should I add? My system right now has four cups of water in it and I put in 1/4 cup of water wetter. I also can't tell if the water is flowing through the cpu block either. I can't really see it go through the block, but in the res the water is moving and the pump sounds fine[I can barely hear the thing :eek:] so it must be flowing fine.
 
Going to order something this week not sure what LOL

couple of questions for the experienced.
I have a 2.8G p4 northwood..abit ic7 3 HD's cd and dvd rom drive.
2 120 and 2 80 fans.
an antec 430w ps. Is this ok for running a 12v pump that draws 12 to 14 watts a 12 volts?

do the new reservoirs that go in the drive bays introduce whooshing and gurgling noises into the system?

some water additatives that kits contain, some better than others?

maintance--just top of the reservoir every month?

thanks big time for any comments or flames for stupid questions

sparks
 
Mind adding me to your list of parts?

I sell cooling rads.

Freshcooling.com
 
Hey guys my first post in this section, thanks for all the wonderful info I have turn if searching the bowels of these threads.

I have recently succumb to the building a watercooling rig and now in the design phase. I have a Lian Li PC71 case. I have looked through all the pic and I am still wondering where is the optimal place to mount my radiator. Also when mounting my radiator which direction should my air flow. Should I be blowing in air or blowing it out. This rig will be set up internally so there will be no exposed components.
I have seen may mount there radiators up top and some below just which is best.

SS
 
Where you mount the radiator doesn't really make any temperature differences. That I've seen anyway. Usually it's the ammount of room you have inside of your case, making it look clean, and what you like! :D

The fan should be intake, and use a fan shroud for lowering those temps even more.
 
Hinokagutsuchi said:
Another question I didn't see answered:

Does the size of the tubing have any effect on the cooling at all? Does 1/2"ID tubing cool better than 3/8" tubing? Or is there no effect?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
It's just one of the many variables in any watercooling system. If the waterblocks were meant to be used with 3/8" tubing, it'll yield little to no improvement, and may even reduce performance.

Likewise, using 1/2" tubing with a relatively weak pump doesn't make sense either.

Only if both the pump, waterblocks and radiator are capable of generating/handling a specific type of flow can one decide on which type of tubing to use.
 
JessAlba452 said:
Where you mount the radiator doesn't really make any temperature differences. That I've seen anyway. Usually it's the ammount of room you have inside of your case, making it look clean, and what you like! :D
Click to expand...
If exhaust air is pushed or pulled through the radiator, and this air has been heated by one or more (SLI) videocards, and a number of HDDs, temperatures will usually be a couple of degrees higher, depending on the amount of air passing through the radiator (high-flow vs low-flow).
The fan should be intake, and use a fan shroud for lowering those temps even more.
Click to expand...
You mean a push-configuration?


BTW, did you forget about those close-up pictures of Vash or something? Want me to start harassing you until you give in? :)
 
Hey guys,

I am still struggling with the design of mymod. I have a Lian Li 7x and it has plenty of room. At this point I want to try installing a rad with little or no cutting at all. I want to install in where the white arrow is just above the PSU....but my question is should I put a 120mm fan/rad combo up there which will give me better performance and cooling than 2 80's but will require some modding or cutting
or should I just get a rad like the black ice micro II which has 2 80mm fans and that will bolt right on.

Opinions pls
pc75question.jpg
 
I have both the radiators in question and the case as well to boot. I think I would be inclined to cut the back of the case a bit and put the 120 in as it would move more air and be less noisy. If you don't want to cut the case then use the Micro II radiator. Dependening on what you are doing it might not make any differfence at all. :)
 
could someone explain to me how to remove the water from my watercooling system when Im changing the water with a resovoir?
 
undefinedundefinedundefinedput your computer into water and then your computer will cool down :D if your computer doesn't work then, it means that it was broken. it's all
 
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