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I could probably paint over it, but frankly I just don't want to bother. If I did that, I'd feel obliged to paint the silver DVD drive cover black, too.MATTRESS said:is there a way you could "buff off" that logo that's painted on there? looks kinda goofy
I handed it to my machinist and said, "Cut out those openings, would you?"also, how'd you make such clean cuts with a dremel?
Oh, that was the easy part. Just use a sheet of paper lined up with the corner of the frame and trace the ports; then cut out the port openings in the paper, double-check it to make sure the openings are right, and tape it to the outside cover. Mark the openings there and start cutting. There are also three "ears" on the inside that have to be trimmed off, that's the hard part.how'd you measure everything out?
Thanks!it looks like it was made for that case! great job
SJetski71 said:Lowest price socket 478 P4 1.5ghz i've seen, $64 shipped free with coupon code coolingfan (exp 12/29)
http://www.hardwarecooling.com/product_info.php/products_id/402
Drilled clearance holes for 3mm screws and put them down from the top of the mobo, through 1/4-inch nylon spacers and the bottom of the case, and nuts with a little Loc-Tite on the outside. In the event a nut comes loose, it won't be rattling around on the mobo (and the screws are less likely to slide around as long as the case is more-or-less right-side up).MATTRESS said:Morely -- how do you plan on putting the standoffs on?
The permanent means will be a piece of 0.0625 plexiglas, cut out to clear the ports and the exhaust fan I added where the original power supply was. I'm glad I didn't finish that yet, because the squirrel-cage fan from the iDEQ's bones has failed (bearings are shot). I'm using an 80mm fan now. The gap between the edge of the fan housing and the edge of the PSU opening has been filled with one of those thin foam sheets used to seal behind electical outlets when you're weather-proofing a house. That, and the feet on the bottom of the case, are held in place with silicon sealer. Great stuff - absorbs vibration, waterproof, can be removed with an Xacto knife if necessary, and sticks to almost anything.How do you plan on covering the back of this thing too?
Thermite Paste said:aw man, i really could have used one of those, i have the second computer in my sig i want to make into a htpc if anyone has one and doesnt want to charg me 4x the original price id like one. i have some stuff to trade too.
MATTRESS said:i read the irda adapters are for data transfer only, and it cannot be used to receive remote control commands. correct me if i'm wrong!
Good find Morely, got one.Morely said:Want to use an IR wireless remote controller with this board as a HTPC, but don't feel like major hacks to add an IR receiver? Geeks.com comes to the rescue again: USB IRda receiver
Hook this up to the internal USB port header and stick it behind a window on the front bezel, and voila!
Morely said:Want to use an IR wireless remote controller with this board as a HTPC, but don't feel like major hacks to add an IR receiver? Geeks.com comes to the rescue again: USB IRda receiver
Hook this up to the internal USB port header and stick it behind a window on the front bezel, and voila!
darkunderlord said:Anyone get an LCD from a laptop connected to this? I'm gonna try it tomorrow at work. Skeptical but it's worth trying.
Also, the miniPCI slot might serve a purpose for the person wanting PCMCIA functionality.
Anyone know exactly which laptop/PC this is from?
Some sager's, clevo and i think an alienware or two.darkunderlord said:Anyone know exactly which laptop/PC this is from?
I think you're right, the answer may have been right in front of us.valve1138 said:good luck on the LCD, I have a helluva a time trying to find the right parts and cables. They seem to be specific to the laptop motherboard
Again, look through the thread, there is a lot of info from where these came from.
MATTRESS said:everytime I've tried to contact chaintech about this board they refused to help me lol