Water cooling n00b, have a few questions

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Rusky

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 4, 2005
Messages
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I'm only seen pictures and read some posts, I've never tried it at all. I have just a few questions.

Here are my specs:
Rosewill ATX Case
FOXCONN "865A01-PE-6EKRS" i865PE Chipset Motherboard
Intel Pentium 4/ 2.8E GHz 800MHz FSB, mine was new
Corsair Value Select 184 Pin 512MBx2 DDR PC-3200
SONY Black 1.44MB 3.5inch Floppy Disk Drive
NEC 16X Double Layer DVD±RW Drive
Lite-On 52X32X52 Internal EIDE CD-RW
2x Western Digital Raptor 36.7GB 10,000RPM SATA Hard Drive setup in Raid 0
ATI RADEON 9800PRO Video Card, 256MB DDR, flashed into a XT

1. If I get one, what parts need cooling?
2. How much does a great - awesome system cost?
3. How much noise does it make?
4. What makes it glow like I've seen in pics?
5. If I need to move my pc around, is that going to be a problem?

Thanks to anyone who is nice enough to take the time to aswer some or all of the questions.
The easiest way to answer them is to just use the numbers, like
1. answer
2. answer
Thanks again.
 
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=759705

there ya go mate:)

To be a tad more direct:
1. Need or can be cooled?
What can be cooled
CPU, GPU, NB, HDD, PSU, RAM etc...(CPU, GPU and NB or most common)
2. How much does a great - awesome system cost?
Its all relative. $200-$300
3. How much noise does it make?
Once again relative. Less cooling = pretty much slent Great cooling a little noise
4. What makes it glow like I've seen in pics?
Its a UV reative liquid found on most watercooling sites
5. If I need to move my pc around, is that going to be a problem?
Not if its put together right and tight:) Just don't through it across the room and pay special attention to the res if you have one.

Ciao Ciao
 
i would whole heartidly recommend watercooling. I have 2 7 volted fanse on my rad and it is so quiet and cools pretty nicely!

and in regard to moving, i have taken mine up and down from University about 6 times, and although it nearly kills me everytime as i have a big case and adding water only makes that woerse have never had a leak - just keep things nice a tight!!
 
Wow, thanks for the fast responses. And stupid me for not seeing the sticky thread of everything I needed to know.

EDIT: I am now syked and "pumped" about getting a water cooling system for my pc. When I saw those pics with the neat setup, I just fell in love with it.
 
Last question, if I get a water cooler for my pc now and in a fw months decide to transfer it to another pc, does that cause problems?
 
it shouldn't cause any problems as long as you are keepign the same CPU etc it will just be taking it apart and reassembling in the new case. I moved mine from my old Antec to my new Lian Li and it gave me a chance to redo the things i didnt like in my old case as you can get a case knowing what you need to fit in - My watercooling setup is now a lot better set up and a lot easier to work on as i dont have as many pipes etc running all over the place!

On your first build just make sure you take it slow and plan where everything is going. It is half the fun!!!

NANA

[EDIT] I see you said new PC not new case. You might have to change the waterblock for the CPU depending whether you chnage CPU or not, but i know for DangerDen you can get replacement tops to change socket compatability (just gone from Athlon xp -> Athlon 64 although i sold my RBX and got a new A64 waterblock)
 
What I mean to say is the I'm going to upgrade my pc in maybe a year or so with a new cpu, mobo, and maybe ram, video card, and possibly a new case. Does the same info still apply though?

EDIT: I'm going to stay with intel, so I guess the only thing I might need to get a new one for is the video card? or the mobo as well?
 
You should be fine as long as the class of CPU doesnt change.

There are certian blocks for certian things. If you get a CPU or GPU block for a certian type and change that a lot you are not going to be able to use the same stuff. If the chip is the same just a faster version you should be fine.

-Ed
 
CopyCat said:
You should be fine as long as the class of CPU doesnt change.

There are certian blocks for certian things. If you get a CPU or GPU block for a certian type and change that a lot you are not going to be able to use the same stuff. If the chip is the same just a faster version you should be fine.

-Ed
Click to expand...

Oh, ok I understand. So if I get an ati radeon x800 for example it still should be the same since it's the same brand just better card.

If thats true, it anyone interested in buying an almost new ati sliencer 3 :D ?
 
Boy water cooling is a lot more interesting/complicated than building a computer.

Is there anything I need to know as far as what parts can or cannot fit, and how would I go about doing that.
 
Rusky said:
What I mean to say is the I'm going to upgrade my pc in maybe a year or so with a new cpu, mobo, and maybe ram, video card, and possibly a new case. Does the same info still apply though?
Click to expand...
I know many people might disagree, but a decent kit is a good idea only because it is easier for a first-timer. Once you've done it, then you can upgrade parts, and won't even have to look at the manual on your second install. My advice? Get an Asetek Waterchill. Great performance, great quality. I now have Asetek's Vapochill, and am using the Waterchill on my GPU.

The great thing is when you replace/upgrade the processor, you just unscrew the 4 mounting knobs, put in the new one, add some TIM, clean the waterblock, and screw the 4 knobs back in. No fuss, no muss. Socket 775 might be different, I dunno. But for Intel-to-AMD, you just use different holes on the block.

Oh, and most overrated part? The tubing. Some "experts" drop a fortune on high-end tubing. I've happily run a watercooling unit with cheap vinyl tubing ($2/10') from Home Depot for over a year at a time. Unless you are doing some phase-change waterchilling, no need for Tygon. Flexibility of the tubing is what matters.

Most underrated part? Tubing cutter. My gawd, it will save you time, frustration, and bodily harm having the right cutter.

cutter.jpg

Greatest $10 I ever spent. Trust me.
 
Well after looking through the danger den site, I'm as confused as ever.

1st off is there a difference between the Custom Intel PIV Water Cooling Kit and the Ultimate Gaming Rig Water Cooling Kit

Also I don't know what each category means. If it's been posted just let me know or link me if you feel like it. If not though can someone explain the differences between those links and the categories. Or if you really feel like helping someone out, even post a build thats about $200 or less. It can be a bit more I guess, but I don't really want to spend that much.

I picked DD since it seems to be the most popular brand, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
cheap tubbing kinks and can suck itself inward. personally heatercores over bix rads. minimum a single 120. you will need a good fan. sanyo denkis are great(diminished availability)pumps and blocks are dependant on a number of factors. post budget and expectaions and we can get you going with a good system
 
purefun65 said:
cheap tubbing kinks
Click to expand...
Actually, the ClearFlex that came with the Waterchill kinked worse. The key to not kinking is to not make sharp turns. :D

purefun65 said:
and can suck itself inward.
Click to expand...
And lightning can ruin a PC, and you have the same odds of both happening. :rolleyes: Show me a post when this has happened, i'll show you a bonehead installer.
lol.gif


Again, I've run my system happily for a long time with Home Depot tubing (I've had some expensive Tygon sitting in a coil for like 2 years).

Dangerden kits are nice too, but there is a lot of phanboyism with that company for some reason. Same difference. Again, a kit is good for first-timers, IMO.

Looking at the DD, keep in mind that is a DC pump in the kit. They are cool because of less wires and power on without a relay, but they do take watts from your PSU. DDs are fine, and no, I don't see a difference between the 2 kits.
 
uclajd said:
Actually, the ClearFlex that came with the Waterchill kinked worse. The key to not kinking is to not make sharp turns. :D
Click to expand...

With proper routing neither ClearFlex, Tygon, or cheap tubing from Home Depot will kink. However the advantages to Tygon are that it can make tighter turns without kinking than cheaper tubing, and has a thicker wall so it is less prone to leaks. Some cheap tubing will sometimes split along the seam, very rare mind you and still could happen with Tygon, but Tygon is generally more reliable.

Do you really need Tygon tubing? Simple answer no, but it really is only like 10$ more than the the cheap stuff.
 
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