Watercooled P180B

Loop order doesn't really matter all that much as long as the res/T-line comes before the pump. The most your temperature will differentiate from any two points within the same loop is like 1-1.5C. This was proven by one of the math/physics wizards over on the XS forums and can be looked up on Wikipedia.

The best way to route your tubing is to just use the least amount of tubing possible.
 
Yeah, never mind maths/physics wizards, anyone with high school physics and the ability to multiply and divide can figure out that loop order matters extremely little. Just make sure you got your res/t-line before the pump and it's gravy.
 
So I have finally gotten all of my parts for cooling this box, a quick check on my flow path in this P180. I am going to turn the rear fan to blow into the case so that I will hopefully have cooler air flowing into the intakes for ths big PA120.3 on top.

flowpath.jpg


Also a few photos of my rig as it sits now waiting on the tubing to be installed and mount the last radiator / GFX cards.

topmobo.jpg


fullmobo.jpg


- Gyr
 
So I am in the process of leak testing, runing 95% Distilled and 5% Pentosin G12.

No leaks after 12 hours and great flow even with the long tubing and shap turns :D

leak_test.jpg


Wiring could use a little more work but I am at the point of good enough.

PA120.3 and PA120.1 in a P180B :D will post temps when it is up and runing.

- Gyr
 
Gyrfalcon said:
So I am in the process of leak testing, runing 95% Distilled and 5% Pentosin G12.

No leaks after 12 hours and great flow even with the long tubing and shap turns :D

leak_test.jpg


Wiring could use a little more work but I am at the point of good enough.

PA120.3 and PA120.1 in a P180B :D will post temps when it is up and runing.

- Gyr
Click to expand...

You sir amaze me. Nice work on getting PA's to fit and work in P180. You're temps are gonna rock.
 
Vlad_13 said:
Uhhh 1/2" tubing is a major pain in the ass to work in P180 :( I dumped my old crap and switched it for 7/16" lol you will too in few months ;)

My P180, but everything is internal tho.
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1195538
Click to expand...

Yea even 7/16" was a little bit of a pain. I can't image 1/2". But I'm glad it worked out for you OP.


Gyrfalcon said:
So I am in the process of leak testing, runing 95% Distilled and 5% Pentosin G12.

No leaks after 12 hours and great flow even with the long tubing and shap turns :D

leak_test.jpg


Wiring could use a little more work but I am at the point of good enough.

PA120.3 and PA120.1 in a P180B :D will post temps when it is up and runing.

- Gyr
Click to expand...

I thought I was the only person to mount my pump like that! Its the only reason I stuck with my older P180 instead or getting one of those "new" P180s with the tubing holes instead.

I was also considering the top of my case so that I can mount my triple rad up there. I'm not too good with a dremel (actually I've barely used one) . Do you have any suggestions for cutting? How about handling the triple layered design of the case panels?
 
If you still planing to buy a rotary tool, get Craftsman instead of Dremel, they are a lot better.

here a pic of my i got from sears


There are two things, guides sorta speak, which help you to cut in plastic a straight line, with some adjustments you can cut straight lines with blades too.

my old thread on cutting rad hole and window in P180:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1070794
 
Hmm...I already have a dremel so I don't think I'd buy the Craftsman just for this. Should the dremel be okay? Also I want a bolt-on window (like the one sold in performance-pc) instead of one with molding. It looks like I'd need a tool that'd give me a cleaner cut. Looking closely at the picture from the performance-pcs site it, the cut doesn't look that clean especially do to the layers. Maybe I could use some thin molding and then bolt it on. Thanks. When I actually get started modding I'll create my own thread instead of hijacking someone else's.

My p180 thread is coming July... I don't know why I bought the case and the water cooling parts soo early!

Cheers
 
That's a lot of rads! PA120.1 fits there with not having to rip out the 3.5 bay? Cool. Enjoy your system!
 
javisaman said:
Hmm...I already have a dremel so I don't think I'd buy the Craftsman just for this. Should the dremel be okay? Also I want a bolt-on window (like the one sold in performance-pc) instead of one with molding. It looks like I'd need a tool that'd give me a cleaner cut. Looking closely at the picture from the performance-pcs site it, the cut doesn't look that clean especially do to the layers. Maybe I could use some thin molding and then bolt it on. Thanks. When I actually get started modding I'll create my own thread instead of hijacking someone else's.

My p180 thread is coming July... I don't know why I bought the case and the water cooling parts soo early!

Cheers
Click to expand...


Dremel should be fine. It's what I use for case mods for radiator cut outs and window mods. Use the right cutting disk and just make sure you go nice and slow. I usually use the sander attachment afterwards to deburr anything that needs to be cleaned up. Please be sure to use safety goggles and gloves as I've heard of many accidents in various forums where alu chunks have struck people in the eye.
 
Yeah a dremel works fine just take it slow, I cut away the plastic first going just deep enough to score the metal. Then I switch blades and cut the metal out.

The system is up right now, but I am having a terrible time getting the OS to load and stay loaded on two 74G Raptors in RAID 0. I keep getting a corrupted hal.dll file, even when not raided... any ideas?
 
AndyM said:
That's a lot of rads! PA120.1 fits there with not having to rip out the 3.5 bay? Cool. Enjoy your system!
Click to expand...

It fits but you have to modify the catch at the front of the left side panel to make it work right.
 
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