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nicks0r
Newbie Cheeze
"how much do you think this laptop will cost at the end of the summer?"
$1299 plus tax, but you won't be able to find them anymore. Everybody will want one by then. (Hint: The M6805/7 is emachines' 'loss leader', to upgrade the company and get them on track.)
...But there will be newer models that are almost as good value(!)
Dave
Newbie Cheeze
"how much do you think this laptop will cost at the end of the summer?"
$1299 plus tax, but you won't be able to find them anymore. Everybody will want one by then. (Hint: The M6805/7 is emachines' 'loss leader', to upgrade the company and get them on track.)
...But there will be newer models that are almost as good value(!)
Dave
When I check the devive manager it reports that I have 1.1.0.0.....yet I downloaded the newest drivers!! Also, how can you set performance differences in battery vs plugged in mode? I dont have any options in the power management panel.
Also, what has your experiences been with CounterStrike? Lag? Resonsive?
Thanks Dale
Also, what has your experiences been with CounterStrike? Lag? Resonsive?
Thanks Dale
Can I get a port replicator for my eMachine?
Would this work?
http://www.topmicrousa.com/3030003.html
I know many manufacurs use the Asus one...
Dale
Would this work?
http://www.topmicrousa.com/3030003.html
I know many manufacurs use the Asus one...
Dale
I know belkin just came out with a USB 2.0 port replicator - something worth the money? Do you need to install new drivers for all of that?? Will be a "seperate" network adapter?
Also......IS THERE ANYWAY to switch the FN and CTRL keys?
Thanks
Dale
Also......IS THERE ANYWAY to switch the FN and CTRL keys?
Thanks
Dale
Use TweakUI from microsoft. It's able to change the search, mail, and info button's functionality.
They're under the "Explorer - Command Keys" section. To find each of the keys in the list, just press the button when in this section in TweakUI. It will highlight them for you.
Enjoy,
Maniac
I mean the FN key in the lower left......
the ctrl should be to the left....I'm told that the keyboard controller intercepts the FN key before windows can do anything with it - so I dont know if there will ever be a fix for this. Also, I've heard some bios hacks enable you to change it......something to think about!
Thanks for the heads up on TweakUI
Dale
the ctrl should be to the left....I'm told that the keyboard controller intercepts the FN key before windows can do anything with it - so I dont know if there will ever be a fix for this. Also, I've heard some bios hacks enable you to change it......something to think about!
Thanks for the heads up on TweakUI
Dale
Ok, I have power management on (obviously) in my clean install of Windows XP Pro. Yet when I leave the machine go and turn the monitor/lcd off I have to use the function key (FN+F4) to get it to come back on. Suggestions? Is this normal? Do you guys with XP Home have this issue?
Thanks Dale
Thanks Dale
Zorlofe
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2003
- Messages
- 74
NecessaryEvil just wanted to say thx for putting up this FAQ. I got my M6807 on tuesday and am having a blast with it! Seems well worth the money to me so far.
Sacrificial
n00b
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2004
- Messages
- 26
I have already messed with the SODIMMs in my M6805.
Two sticks of Kingmax 512Mb DDR400 (2.5/3/3/8 @ 200Mhz) will not work. The BIOS info will boot and you can get into BIOS setup, but Windows will not boot. Supposing eMachines posts a BIOS revision that allows us to work with latency timings (fat chance), then there might be a chance of getting this setup to work.
Two sticks of Kingmax 512Mb DDR333 (2.5/3/3/7 @ 166mhz) runs great, noticeably better than the 768Mb that I ran for a week before I opting for the second SODIMM. The jump from 768Mb to 1Gb made the more noticeable reduction in page file access.
Accessing the internal SODIMM is not recommended for anyone but the most die-hard upgrader. It requires tracking of some 30-ish screws of varying dimensions and careful manipulation of wire-tethered components around the fragile LCD, which does have to be separated from the body of the laptop in the course of opening it up. Not for the faint of heart even if you had the disassembly sequence available to you.
Being that this is the case, I think finding a cheap single stick of 1Gb DDR333 SODIMM would be the hot setup for the majority.
While I was in there I took the opportunity to lap the CPU heatsink and replace the OEM foil-type thermal interface with Arctic Silver Ceramique, which presumably achieved an increase in thermal performance by reducing the frequency at which the fans came on, but producing a hotter exhaust when it did. FYI, the thermal solution is a twin centrifugal blower, triple heatpipes
(two to the left radiator, one to the right) with a copper CPU face.
Two sticks of Kingmax 512Mb DDR400 (2.5/3/3/8 @ 200Mhz) will not work. The BIOS info will boot and you can get into BIOS setup, but Windows will not boot. Supposing eMachines posts a BIOS revision that allows us to work with latency timings (fat chance), then there might be a chance of getting this setup to work.
Two sticks of Kingmax 512Mb DDR333 (2.5/3/3/7 @ 166mhz) runs great, noticeably better than the 768Mb that I ran for a week before I opting for the second SODIMM. The jump from 768Mb to 1Gb made the more noticeable reduction in page file access.
Accessing the internal SODIMM is not recommended for anyone but the most die-hard upgrader. It requires tracking of some 30-ish screws of varying dimensions and careful manipulation of wire-tethered components around the fragile LCD, which does have to be separated from the body of the laptop in the course of opening it up. Not for the faint of heart even if you had the disassembly sequence available to you.
Being that this is the case, I think finding a cheap single stick of 1Gb DDR333 SODIMM would be the hot setup for the majority.
While I was in there I took the opportunity to lap the CPU heatsink and replace the OEM foil-type thermal interface with Arctic Silver Ceramique, which presumably achieved an increase in thermal performance by reducing the frequency at which the fans came on, but producing a hotter exhaust when it did. FYI, the thermal solution is a twin centrifugal blower, triple heatpipes
(two to the left radiator, one to the right) with a copper CPU face.
L3wsTh3rin
n00b
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2003
- Messages
- 2
As a soon to be proud owner of the 6805, I had a few questions i was hoping someone well versed in this product could fill me in on.
First, and foremost, does replacing the paltry 256 meg stick of RAM that's under the keyboard void the 3 year PSP warrant that I purchased along with the laptop, or does it only void the eMachine one?
Second, anyone feel a bit put out after seeing the stats of the Mobile Radeon 9700 as compared to the 9600?
Third, I plan on upgrading the hard drive, if I don't get lucky and get the 5400rpm version, to the Hitachi 60gig 7200rpm monster. Does/Would this void my warranty and/or has anyone done this and can say that the 200 bucks is worth the speed increase?
Thank you for the time :-D
First, and foremost, does replacing the paltry 256 meg stick of RAM that's under the keyboard void the 3 year PSP warrant that I purchased along with the laptop, or does it only void the eMachine one?
Second, anyone feel a bit put out after seeing the stats of the Mobile Radeon 9700 as compared to the 9600?
Third, I plan on upgrading the hard drive, if I don't get lucky and get the 5400rpm version, to the Hitachi 60gig 7200rpm monster. Does/Would this void my warranty and/or has anyone done this and can say that the 200 bucks is worth the speed increase?
Thank you for the time :-D
Sacrificial
n00b
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2004
- Messages
- 26
No there isn't, at least not in my case and under what my definition of "risk" is. You might be able to work the SODIMM out from under the upper card reader PCB and reduce disassembly to only removing the bezel/keyboard/chassis plate out, but you run the risk of scraping something (resistor? IC leg?) off the bottom of the upper card reader PCB. I mean, surely you noticed that the SODIMM didn't slip in and out of the slot without resistance at that kind of restricted angle. And good luck trying to get a SODIMM built with 8 TinyBGAs on each side slid in there. It's just too thick at the top and forced an angle that just didn't work. Trust me, it was tried and rethought.
It's not at all difficult to remove the upper card reader PCB once you get the top cover off (addressing Kingof1337's question in the other thread).
And regarding the thermal interface, I already accepted that the warranty was out the window when I decided to pop the case. It is of course the price to pay, but OTOH, at least I won't have to resort to lying about what I did to get warranty service (being that there is no warranty service to be expected, LOL
)And yeah, getting that internal 256Mb SODIMM out will void all waranties. OTOH, consider that your laptop is a relatively disposable item that will either be lost/stolen, be broken, or be obsolete in no more than 3 years. No matter how much you may love it now, spending a fortune ungrading it into your personal totem is kind of pointless. For the hard drive, just insist to start the computer up before you buy at the store. Look in the Device Manager under Drives for "HTS548060M9AT00", which indicates the 5400rpm 8Mb cache Travelstar.
Having said that, I upgraded the RAM because it was cheap ($200 for two sticks of 512Mb) and will be very much needed as we go to 64-bit code beginning in the later half of this year. As CPUID.COM noted, it is probable that the 64-bit version of compiled code will take up ~25% more space than the 32-bit version of the same code. And 512Mb total RAM was already the minimum for okay 32-bit performance in my book.
I just got my M6805 today after on an order at the end of the week from best buy... I don't have any of the 4 hard drives already listed
Mine is model number: IC25N060ATMR04-0
After some searching I found it to be a 4200 RPM, 2MB Cache Hitachi Travelstar ....
Link here...
Im going to open it up tonight to see if this is what it says on the drive itself.
Mine is model number: IC25N060ATMR04-0
After some searching I found it to be a 4200 RPM, 2MB Cache Hitachi Travelstar
....Link here...
Im going to open it up tonight to see if this is what it says on the drive itself.
i am looking into one of these eA64 machines myself.
can anyone tell me how loud the machine is with...
1) idle
2) can you hear the "whining spin" of the hard drive? what model do you have?
3) can you hear the "crunching" of the hard drive during read/write? what model do you have?
4) how loud the fan is?
5) any other noise issues i am not asking?
thanks!!!!!
can anyone tell me how loud the machine is with...
1) idle
2) can you hear the "whining spin" of the hard drive? what model do you have?
3) can you hear the "crunching" of the hard drive during read/write? what model do you have?
4) how loud the fan is?
5) any other noise issues i am not asking?
thanks!!!!!
Sacrificial
n00b
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2004
- Messages
- 26
Originally posted by emXry
i am looking into one of these eA64 machines myself.
can anyone tell me how loud the machine is with...
1) idle
2) can you hear the "whining spin" of the hard drive? what model do you have?
3) can you hear the "crunching" of the hard drive during read/write? what model do you have?
4) how loud the fan is?
5) any other noise issues i am not asking?
thanks!!!!!
1) Nearly silent. As in inaudible.
2) No, and I have the Hitachi Travelstar 5600rpm model.
3) It's more of a series of muted clicks.
4) When the fan is on, you can still whisper over it.
5) Nope. The laptop is quieter than my old Sony PCG-M505F, which had no fan but plenty of hard drive whirr.
Why not go to a store and ask to hear for yourself? I'm sure it's a reasonable request for them to oblige.
Originally posted by blindbug
I just got my M6805 today after on an order at the end of the week from best buy... I don't have any of the 4 hard drives already listed
Mine is model number: IC25N060ATMR04-0
After some searching I found it to be a 4200 RPM, 2MB Cache Hitachi Travelstar
Link here...
Im going to open it up tonight to see if this is what it says on the drive itself.
no that url and many more like it have incorrect specs. the official link is here http://www.hgst.com/hdd/support/80gn/80gn.htm there you will find the real specs of your HD its is the same as mine 4200rpm, 8mb buffer.
I just picked up the 6805 last week. Got it from Bestbuy for $1299 after rebates.
Someone that said above that they refuse to buy from BestBuy, hmm, well, are not the only two places to get the 6800 series Best Buy and Circuit City? The 6805 at BB, and 6807 at CC, I never found it anywhere else, haven't checked ebay yet.
My harddrive matches the number to the hitachi 4200rpm drive.
Click here for 200+ page pdf file on the 80gn series drives
How much are the 7200rpm 60gig one and how much does it effect the battery life?
I do have one dead, or I guess hot pixel. It on the bottom left, an inch out. But, that's pretty much normal, if there was 3+ and near the center, I'd be upset. I had bought a Dell laptop once with a UXGA screen, it had a dead pixel too. But compare this to the wire lines on 21in trinitron monitors I use, it's really nothing at all to complain about.
I allso like how evenly lit the screen on this lap to is. On similarly priced machines 1/3 bottom of the screen is too light, making the startbar look foggy and black looked horrible when trying to watch a movie. But on this 6805, it stays real even and only an inch near the bottom middle looks lighter. The sides look a little dark on a white background though, but still, the screen rocks over eveything I've seen and the resolution is just fine.
What's with some glossy laptop screens I've seen at stores?
I can't really give this machines any cons for the price. The only thing I can think of is that it would have been nice if it featured external controls for playback while the lid is shut. A good plus though is the 4 usb ports and that they're side by side, not stacked, making them easier to get to. Oh, I guess a real con is that damn blue FN key. I'm so use to reaching for the last key for ctrl, why the hell didn't the put ctrl at the end like normal, I keep hitting the fn while in Illustrator and Photoshop. There's also no ctrl on the right, why?
From out of the box I got 2407 in 3Dmark03, and 9000 something in 3dmark01. I really don't think it's neccesary to OC, especially since wouldn't more heat be damaging to the laptop? With my desktop, there's no need to squeeze out any more performance, but with the laptop any extra is good, so is it pretty easy to oc the card?
I did buy the 3 year warranty from BestBuy. I didn't know emachine had extended warranties, and cheaper for that matter. The Best Buy guy said they allow you to ask for a new battery every year even if it hasn't died yet. Sounds like BS, but if they don't give a new battery each year I'll raise hell. The guy also said they usually don't bother to ask for the old one when you come pick it up at the store. Plus, a warranty is almost a given with a laptop. If you bring it for repair, they'll fix it 4 times, 5th time they'll replace it. New batteries don't count.
Someone that said above that they refuse to buy from BestBuy, hmm, well, are not the only two places to get the 6800 series Best Buy and Circuit City? The 6805 at BB, and 6807 at CC, I never found it anywhere else, haven't checked ebay yet.
My harddrive matches the number to the hitachi 4200rpm drive.
Click here for 200+ page pdf file on the 80gn series drives
How much are the 7200rpm 60gig one and how much does it effect the battery life?
I do have one dead, or I guess hot pixel. It on the bottom left, an inch out. But, that's pretty much normal, if there was 3+ and near the center, I'd be upset. I had bought a Dell laptop once with a UXGA screen, it had a dead pixel too. But compare this to the wire lines on 21in trinitron monitors I use, it's really nothing at all to complain about.
I allso like how evenly lit the screen on this lap to is. On similarly priced machines 1/3 bottom of the screen is too light, making the startbar look foggy and black looked horrible when trying to watch a movie. But on this 6805, it stays real even and only an inch near the bottom middle looks lighter. The sides look a little dark on a white background though, but still, the screen rocks over eveything I've seen and the resolution is just fine.
What's with some glossy laptop screens I've seen at stores?
I can't really give this machines any cons for the price. The only thing I can think of is that it would have been nice if it featured external controls for playback while the lid is shut. A good plus though is the 4 usb ports and that they're side by side, not stacked, making them easier to get to. Oh, I guess a real con is that damn blue FN key. I'm so use to reaching for the last key for ctrl, why the hell didn't the put ctrl at the end like normal, I keep hitting the fn while in Illustrator and Photoshop. There's also no ctrl on the right, why?
From out of the box I got 2407 in 3Dmark03, and 9000 something in 3dmark01. I really don't think it's neccesary to OC, especially since wouldn't more heat be damaging to the laptop? With my desktop, there's no need to squeeze out any more performance, but with the laptop any extra is good, so is it pretty easy to oc the card?
I did buy the 3 year warranty from BestBuy. I didn't know emachine had extended warranties, and cheaper for that matter. The Best Buy guy said they allow you to ask for a new battery every year even if it hasn't died yet. Sounds like BS, but if they don't give a new battery each year I'll raise hell. The guy also said they usually don't bother to ask for the old one when you come pick it up at the store. Plus, a warranty is almost a given with a laptop. If you bring it for repair, they'll fix it 4 times, 5th time they'll replace it. New batteries don't count.
Kingofl337
Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2003
- Messages
- 850
E-Machines still doesn't have the damn driver page up.
Awesome, thanks!
Just to add to the pricing...
I bought mine at best buy for $1549 + tax = $1645
minus a $100 rebate from emachines (ends 5/29/04) = $1545
minus a $150 rebate from best buy (ended 2/21/04) = $1395
minus about $45 in certificates from being a rewardzone member (bought at the same time for $10, the laptop points gives you $50-$60 - $10 for the card = around $45 in certificates) = $1350
I didnt buy any extended warranty (yet), but add in $199 for a pricematched warranty to emachines 3 year warranty = $1549
If you notice, $1549 is the original starting price... so basically with all the rebates and price matches your getting the laptop without tax and a free 3 year warranty...
Best buy here in Syracuse, NY are total idiots, I mean literally. I've been there before and they have dicked me around a few times. I really have lost interested of that store since day one. The closest circuit city is about 100 miles away, honestly I would rather drive there if the price is the same.
Hey Necessary Evil, thanks for assembling this FAQ. I am sure it has been helpful to many people.
Is there any chance you would modify your first entry to add this:
kraftm's (maniac) advice on reprogramming hardkeys:
(From Page 4) Use TweakUI from microsoft. It's able to change the search, mail, and info button's functionality.
They're under the "Explorer - Command Keys" section. To find each of the keys in the list, just press the button when in this section in TweakUI. It will highlight them for you.
Also, here is some additional info:
***********************************
Wireless Adapter:
BCM430G_DeviceDesc="Broadcom 54g MaxPerformance 802.11g"
Current Driver: 3.30.15.0 (7/17/2003)
From Wireless Config Utility
Board: V144F D7050 Rev 4.5
Chipset: BCM4306/bcm2050
The actual miniPCI card is manufactured by Askey Computer Corporation, Model number WLL3010
(IC 1353A-WLL3010)
OEM Wireless Link No updated driver yet.
***********************************
Battery Pack:
Dynapack Li4402a
4400
4.4 Ahr
14.8V
Made in Taiwan
***********************************
Mainboard: Arima W720-K8
Is there any chance you would modify your first entry to add this:
kraftm's (maniac) advice on reprogramming hardkeys:
(From Page 4) Use TweakUI from microsoft. It's able to change the search, mail, and info button's functionality.
They're under the "Explorer - Command Keys" section. To find each of the keys in the list, just press the button when in this section in TweakUI. It will highlight them for you.
Also, here is some additional info:
***********************************
Wireless Adapter:
BCM430G_DeviceDesc="Broadcom 54g MaxPerformance 802.11g"
Current Driver: 3.30.15.0 (7/17/2003)
From Wireless Config Utility
Board: V144F D7050 Rev 4.5
Chipset: BCM4306/bcm2050
The actual miniPCI card is manufactured by Askey Computer Corporation, Model number WLL3010
(IC 1353A-WLL3010)
OEM Wireless Link No updated driver yet.
***********************************
Battery Pack:
Dynapack Li4402a
4400
4.4 Ahr
14.8V
Made in Taiwan
***********************************
Mainboard: Arima W720-K8
Hello,
My M6805 makes a faint clicking noise every few minutes (even when completely idle), and I was wondering if this is normal with laptops, or if anyone else is experiencing this. I don't think it's the hard drive, as the led doesn't flash at all when it makes the sound.
Thanks,
~EnDarkEnd
My M6805 makes a faint clicking noise every few minutes (even when completely idle), and I was wondering if this is normal with laptops, or if anyone else is experiencing this. I don't think it's the hard drive, as the led doesn't flash at all when it makes the sound.
Thanks,
~EnDarkEnd
Kingofl337
Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2003
- Messages
- 850
Mine makes the noise also. I think it is the hard drive.