My Watercooling Thread (pics) (56k...yeah right)

well, now i have a question (cornelious, you don't hafta answer this one :p):

because of the case i have, to install it, i'd either have to a) dismantle the loop and reassemble in case and releak test it or b) try and fineggle (sp?) it all in the case...

could i do A for less time with the blocks connected respectively? should i do A for another 24 hours?

or should i do B and hope no tubing comes off and that i can fit everything it anyway

thanks

alex
 
What I did was remove the mobo, PSU, and whatnot. Then just put in the waterstuff, with the blocks just hanging there and leaktest it all in place. Then put the harware back in.

Its a bit of work but you dont have to remove and reattach any of the water stuff after leak testing.

P.S. takin out all ur hardware sounds like a pain but in reality its all just a few screws and 5 minutes work.

Pic:
Resized test rig.JPG


P.S. That butt ugly custom res that seemed like such a good idea at the time will be gone when I redo some stuff shortly.
 
MikeP said:
What I did was remove the mobo, PSU, and whatnot. Then just put in the waterstuff, with the blocks just hanging there and leaktest it all in place. Then put the harware back in.

Its a bit of work but you dont have to remove and reattach any of the water stuff after leak testing.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of somethign else after talking to Alex, but that actually would be a good idea. The problem with me is that my CSP pump has to be plugged into a 12v source to run, which means having the comp up and running with the pump off to the side. I had a tv tray setup next to my desk before so i could plug in the pump from the other side of the case and it worked fine.

Me and Alex figured out that both of us are just gonna be "feeding" the loop through our 5.25" bays into the case.....he could probly go your route, but I'll have to, cus otherwise I have to take the res off the loop to install it, and that basically cancells out any reason for doing the leak testing in the first place.
 
ok, well, everyone, i thought this would be the most useful place to put this...

I am wondering if i should go with a T-line instead of the res that i have, because, to put my northbridge block on, i'm going to have to remove my mobo/watercooling so i have a chance to rethink. AND, sitting here typing I'm getting 41-42*C....wtf?!??!

well, thanks!

alex
 
lol... your title has it exactly right. my 56k is running at 38.6k right now... and them pics be doin' the red ex thang. at least guilford college has a t1 line... so i'll be back to normal tomorrow.

edit: i'm back... looks like the modem ain't the problem. your first several pics aren't coming up.
 
Alex41290 said:
hmm...seems repetitive....leaktesting:

IMG_1214.JPG


so far so good....like the water color? i was going for the really light blue that Liquid_Cooled used, but he has decided not to share what he uses...so i'm stuck with a sweet blue-green....comments, suggestions, thoughts?
Click to expand...
hey so where did you pick up those 90 degree couplings on your res?
 
starhawk said:
lol... your title has it exactly right. my 56k is running at 38.6k right now... and them pics be doin' the red ex thang. at least guilford college has a t1 line... so i'll be back to normal tomorrow.

edit: i'm back... looks like the modem ain't the problem. your first several pics aren't coming up.
Click to expand...

kk, sorry about that...anything in particular you want to see? the host must have deleted them...if you want to see them, just PM me or IM me and I'll get them to you...

and linger, those 90 degree bends came with the res.
 
i see... do those bends screw straight into the res? cause that would be pretty helpful.
 
linger said:
i see... do those bends screw straight into the res? cause that would be pretty helpful.
Click to expand...

From what I've seen I think they do screw in, but Alex can confirm on that for us. ;)
 
yup, you can adjust them however you want...

uh, guys, would i be better off with a T-line? because of the "nature" and location of my stuff, a t-line would be easier, but would i see a performance boost/drop?
 
Alex41290 said:
yup, you can adjust them however you want...

uh, guys, would i be better off with a T-line? because of the "nature" and location of my stuff, a t-line would be easier, but would i see a performance boost/drop?
Click to expand...

There is actually no temperature difference between using a T-Line to a reservoir....and I'd actually say that in terms of flow and flow restrictions it'd be better to NOT have the reservoir...as it's just one less thing for the water to pass through. Depending on how the T-Line is setup and placed it can/most likely will be easier to fill the system too, and I'm actually thinking of getting ahold of a DangerDen fillpoint and making the switch myself. :cool:
 
tline_paint.JPG


this is what i was thinking. the x's imply what is NOT going to be there with a t-line, and the horrible-paint-job-purple-lines are the tubing.

is that okay placement or is there a better place?
 
I say go for the T-Line Alex, I'm gonna be trying to switch my loop over to a T-Line system before the end of the year also, either that or get a 3.5" bayres so I can get the heatercore inside the case and get things lookin' a little cleaner.
 
cornelious0_0 said:
There is actually no temperature difference between using a T-Line to a reservoir....and I'd actually say that in terms of flow and flow restrictions it'd be better to NOT have the reservoir...as it's just one less thing for the water to pass through. Depending on how the T-Line is setup and placed it can/most likely will be easier to fill the system too, and I'm actually thinking of getting ahold of a DangerDen fillpoint and making the switch myself. :cool:
Click to expand...

the increased water volume of the res gives you more stable temps
 
but i'd still get temps that are close to the same range, right? would i really take a hit going from a res to a t?
 
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