SOYO 24" DYLM24D6 Official Thread

travanx said:
the bases are very different in size. if it looks like a foot long then thats the bigger base. i want to say that if the base is taped inside the box then thats the bigger base since that was my experience. maybe thats a quick way to tell if the monitor is one that will work or not?
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i dont think the bases make a difference. i have two of them with different bases, and they both work fine. i had one with the bigger base that had problems, but then exchanged it for another one that ended up having the same bigger base and it works great.
 
I went through 6 of these LCDs and all of the ones with a manufacture date of August 2007 had a much darker image than the ones with a July 2007 date. I kept 3 of them.

Also , while the LCD is on, press and hold the plus and minus button and then press the auto button. A code should appear on the screen in the upper right hand corner. The LCDs with a July manufacture date all had the same code and it was different from the ones with an August date.
 
j_m said:
I went through 6 of these LCDs and all of the ones with a manufacture date of August 2007 had a much darker image than the ones with a July 2007 date. I kept 3 of them.

Also , while the LCD is on, press and hold the plus and minus button and then press the auto button. A code should appear on the screen in the upper right hand corner. The LCDs with a July manufacture date all had the same code and it was different from the ones with an August date.
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interesting. since the one i had that was manufactured in august 07 was darker than my july 07 one as well. so it seems that you should look for a july one.
 
j_m said:
I went through 6 of these LCDs and all of the ones with a manufacture date of August 2007 had a much darker image than the ones with a July 2007 date. I kept 3 of them.

Also , while the LCD is on, press and hold the plus and minus button and then press the auto button. A code should appear on the screen in the upper right hand corner. The LCDs with a July manufacture date all had the same code and it was different from the ones with an August date.
Click to expand...

yes, I also had an august panel that was darker than the the july panels I've had

my current july panel has code:

M..21
HP
VP
..S

Where did you find out about the code thing?
 
M 60
HP
VP
S

Has a manufactured date of 2007 07. So my July panel code differs from Rock&Roll's apparently.
 
strange. I woke up this morning, and the 21 that I was in my code yesterday is now 60............
 
Rock&Roll said:
yes, I also had an august panel that was darker than the the july panels I've had

my current july panel has code:

M..21
HP
VP
..S

Where did you find out about the code thing?
Click to expand...

Just playing around.

If you press and hold plus, minus and then auto you can adjust the brightness by pressing plus or minus after you see the letters on the screen.

You can also adjust the contrast the same way by pressing minus, plus and then auto.

Not exactly sure what this is for. Maybe it makes the default brightness and contrast higher? I don't know.
 
It could have been some low level GUI they made before they got the full color GUI made.

EDIT!

It's not a low level GUI. It definitely messes with some other setting you cant see. I played around with it and had to use the factory reset function.......For a while I thought I messed this thing up real bad............

Whatever setting that interface adjusts could be the reason why the august panels are darker than the july panels.

My advise.........dont fuck with that interface............
 
Blazestorm said:
http://www.soyousa.com/products/select.php?id=9

I think I figured out why some are less bright than others... has nothing to do with the manufacturer date.

They have 2 widescreen 24" monitors, one has 300 brightness, the other has 500... :eek:

:)
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Interesting . My info as follows :

Purchased online and mailed from PA (to Calif) .

Mine is a July/07 production (DYLM24D6)

DYLM24D6 = 500nits

Shows 500nits on the box (advertisement) .

DYLM24D6 is on both the box ( UPC w/serial #) and on the back of the unit itself (w/serial #) .

Panel info :
M 60
HN
VP
S



Again my unit was about perfect out of the box with only a reduction in brightness needed , set down to 35 .
 
travanx said:
where is that number located? arent we all getting them from the same place????
Click to expand...

How many of us went into Office Max asking for a DYLM24D6...

And

How many of us went into Office Max asking for a Soyo 24" LCD...

?

I know I was the 2nd one... :D

I'm willing to bet a few people are getting the 300nits brightness...
 
OfficeMax B&M, D6 here!
So far still rock'in, but who knows what tomorrow will bring.........:eek:

Don't you find it interesting that SOYO would offer two nearly identical 24" units, the Topaz S and the Topaz LC. There has to be a story there !
Could LC mean Liquid Crystal or Low Cost.....hmmmm!:rolleyes:
 
I have had mine for 3 or 4 weeks now..No issues and no dead pixels..

Appears I was one of the lucky ones..


But I also got the 2 year add on warranty for a total of 3 years too..
 
BTW, there are four screws located in the middle of the back. Is that for wall mounting (VESA pattern) ?
 
jordan12 said:
I have had mine for 3 or 4 weeks now..No issues and no dead pixels..

Appears I was one of the lucky ones..


But I also got the 2 year add on warranty for a total of 3 years too..
Click to expand...

The bad of that is you have to deal with Soyo the first year, then Office Max after that. Just hope Soyo is good about quick repairs.
 
Well, I just checked mine and it is indeed a 24D6 manufactured on August 28, yet it seems to have less brightness than the ones manufactured earlier (I use a brightness of around 35). I believe j_m and Rock&Roll are right about stumbling into a sort of service menu that Soyo is using to crank these suckers down. I think overheating messes with the laminate around the screen, and the row/column of "dead" pixels is noticed whenever the laminate comes loose. I'm basing this theory on an experience I had two years ago:

My roommate would take his HP laptop into the bathroom several times a week, usually when he was taking a shower. Now whenever he did this, he would be in there for an hour at a time, doing God know what. You can imagine the amount of heat and moisture that builds up in there over that amount of time (and it always stunk like a mf after he got out...I still can't figure out that one). Anyways, one day I noticed that he had a vertical column of yellow pixels on his screen after one of those session. He later figured out that putting pressure around the edge of the screen above the column would make the column disappear, so he started to keep a clothes-hanger fastened to the top where pressure was needed. I guess it worked, but serves him right, heh. Just thought I'd share.
 
Ok, that was an odd post.... :eek:

But sounds plausible. Reduce heat, hence reduce failures. Good job we all tend to reduce the brightness down to 35. This may be saving our bacon as well as our eyes!
 
mine is manufactured 09.2007, and this one is good so far.

BTW looks like UPS accidentally was delivering my returned monitor to me. I guess they sold the broken one I returned and didn't bother to take off my original postage sticker. I hope that was not going to someone who bought the monitor, that would completely suck.
 
Well guys, my display lasted 49 days and last night it developed a two pixel high row of black pixels about 3/4th the way down the screen. It started out as a single row but got darker/thicker after an hour or so. Besides another single dead pixel the display has been otherwise great. I'm certainly glad I got the officemax protection plan. I guess it's time to go back and get another one.

Nite_Hawk
 
Hmm.......Perhaps I need to mod my monitor for extra cooling:D:cool:

Seriously though. Besides turning down the brightness, what's the best way to keep the sceen cool?

Winter's coming. I'll just leave my computer room window open all winter............
 
Because of my own pre-existing suspicions about heat prematurely killing these monitors, and the post by mediaman (the part about laminates and heat), I decided to take the back cover off my Soyo and let it breath. I'm sure we all can observe how few vents Soyo placed in the plastic casing. It may be of no help at all, but I figured it's better to do this rather than just let the thing bathe in it's own heat.

I can tell you that, without a doubt that this monitor is running MUCH cooler. When I cracked open the back of my monitor, which was running for hours before hand, I could feel a heavy amounts of heat escaping from all areas of the panel. Now that I have it running naked on my desk, I can easily feel with my bare hands that both the back and front of my screen are much cooler. Once again, I'm without the proper tools to do real testing. My dad has a lazer thermometer that would have been very handy to get you guys exact numbers in temperature differnce.

I should note that you would not want to do this if you let other people use your PC. Without the back cover on the monitor, if someone goes to adjust the screen, they may electrocute themselves, or damage the monitor. Since noone touches my PC stuff, and I don't have any cat's, I'm safe...........
 
I just picked up a pair of D6's at OM a few days ago. ($320 ea) No bad pixels, but one has developed two issues:
1. The bottom power LED went out.
2. It occasionally develops flickering green dots in certain dark tones (in a gradient, they appear in two bands) Cycling power clears them, but one time, I had to set defaults. They seem to appear after I've been in the menus.
This one will go back to the store for exchange.
(Old & new setups)
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/BeforeAfter.jpg

Also, the RGB levels have a BIG effect on the apparent brightness settings. If you have a brightness difference between two of the same model, check the manual color settings and see if all the sliders are set to about the same range.

Also, a good article on brightness and contrast adjustments (Works for LCD's too):
http://www.poynton.com/notes/brightness_and_contrast/
 
artifacts.jpg


Occasionally, in certain dark gray values, extra junk appears, Usually it's flickering dots, this time it's vertical lines. These appeared after the display woke up for sleep mode.. Power cycling cleared it, so it's not coming from the video card. Also, when I oved the iage to the other monitior, it was clean.

Other issue:
TOO BRIGHT! If I lower the brighness below 50, I lose too much dark area detail. If I heaveit at to, it's blinding. It's so intense that I can feel the heat from the light, like sitting in the sun.


http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/MonSet1.jpg

Use this image to test your settings. Brightness affects the dark area, Too low, and the ends of the parterns disappear. Contriast (video gain) affects the light zone. Too high, and the left ends wash out.

I can see using these displays in an extremely bright office environent, or for outdoor advertising, but not in a house, at night, in a dimly-lit room.

I raised the issue with Soyo via the support form on their website, asking of there's any way to change the black level to compensate for lowered backlight intensity, but all I;ve received so far is an automated acknowledgement of my submission.
 
Well I got my Soyo in the mail yesterday, picked it up on ebay. Overall I would say it is exactly what I would expect from a budget monitor (with the exception of including DVI and VGA cables). No dead/stuck pixels.
I'm running 42/35 for contrast and brightness with a color profile from darktiger.

Not sure about anyone else but my stand really sucked, the screen leaned forward a good 15 degrees which I couldn't seem to fix. I ended up pulling the neo-flex stand off my 20" westie and using that. This is working, but it's definitely pushing the springs in the neo-flex to their limit.

Kevin
 
The stand can tilt, it's very stubborn though :)

It's not that big of a deal though... Fits next to a viewsonic 17" LCD flush (it's angled at me while the Soyo is dead on)

Perfect for HD video editing, preview on the right monitor, main editing on the Soyo... Render and final on the Soyo :)
 
Yes, the stand DOES tilt. I was scared it didn't as it seemed 'stuck' but after reading the manual realized it did tilt and used a lot of force to move it.

Give it a try. Without being able to tilt it would be totally unusable!
 
I'll switch stands when I get home and give it a try... Still prefer my neo-flex though... Aside from probably breaking the springs that is.

Kevin
 
Blazestorm said:
The stand can tilt, it's very stubborn though :)

It's not that big of a deal though... Fits next to a viewsonic 17" LCD flush (it's angled at me while the Soyo is dead on)

Perfect for HD video editing, preview on the right monitor, main editing on the Soyo... Render and final on the Soyo :)
Click to expand...

Squuiid said:
Yes, the stand DOES tilt. I was scared it didn't as it seemed 'stuck' but after reading the manual realized it did tilt and used a lot of force to move it.

Give it a try. Without being able to tilt it would be totally unusable!
Click to expand...


Yes, my Topaz S does tilt, and yes, it flexes alot, however, it works, such that it is, and once it's set up, theres not not much else it needs to do!

I suppose if I lived in an earthquake prone area, or had the monitors sitting out in an open viewing area, I'd have a different opinion.

I have it sitting next to my $800, 8 yr. old IBM LCD. I'd bet that stand weighs more than the Topaz, stand an all, and I never see the difference now that it's set up. :D
 
foobar22 said:
artifacts.jpg


Occasionally, in certain dark gray values, extra junk appears, Usually it's flickering dots, this time it's vertical lines. These appeared after the display woke up for sleep mode.. Power cycling cleared it, so it's not coming from the video card. Also, when I oved the iage to the other monitior, it was clean.

Other issue:
TOO BRIGHT! If I lower the brighness below 50, I lose too much dark area detail. If I heaveit at to, it's blinding. It's so intense that I can feel the heat from the light, like sitting in the sun.


http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/MonSet1.jpg

Use this image to test your settings. Brightness affects the dark area, Too low, and the ends of the parterns disappear. Contriast (video gain) affects the light zone. Too high, and the left ends wash out.

I can see using these displays in an extremely bright office environent, or for outdoor advertising, but not in a house, at night, in a dimly-lit room.

I raised the issue with Soyo via the support form on their website, asking of there's any way to change the black level to compensate for lowered backlight intensity, but all I;ve received so far is an automated acknowledgement of my submission.
Click to expand...

i think you might have a bad DVI cable. because i had a DVI cable that had one of the pins missing that made the colors look like that, except in green. after switching it out with another cable it worked fine. maybe you can try switching out the dvi cables?'

edit: nevermind, you said power cycling some times clears it. so i dunno then.
 
i just brought one today and i've been running it since noon. i noticed as well that a lot of heat comes off this sucker and a faint burning plastic smell coming off the top if i stick my nose right next to the monitor. i'm not sure if it's because of some manufacturing coating but it probably isn't good.

since a lot of people complain about problems and that it might be connected to the heat issue (and i'm still in my 14 day return policy), i might mod my monitor for better heat dispersion. did anyone notice that the holes at the top on the back are pointed away from the screen horizontally? it seems like they should be pointing vertically if you're looking to disperse heat. i was thinking of taking my dremel and cut some vertical slits between the holes. i just have to figure out how to do it so soyo/office max will still take this under warrenty if it breaks for some reason
 
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