Could use some opinions on upgrades

Can't find a single ounce of info about that PSU online. That's usually a bad sign in my experience of the PSU's quality.

Me neither. Been good and quiet. Pretty cool looking as well. Has ceramic fans and I think three. Even has an outlet so I can plug my LCD monitor into it on the back.
 
Well what are you still looking for advice on?

Interesting case. But PSU sits over CPU (Lian Li). I like it though. Not sure you could find a heat sync/fan to fit for OC'ing though with the PSU in that location.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811112158
Edit/Delete Message

Here's where I'm at:

  • GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R
  • Intel Core 2 Duo E8400
  • BFG Tech LS-550
  • OCZ PC2 8500 Repear (2x1G) - showed up last week

Cases I'm considering (all on sale at the Egg but the Cooler Master):

  • LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B
  • LIAN LI PC-61 USB (diggin this one)
  • LIAN LI PC-A59B
  • ANTEC SONATA III 500 (wouldn't need BFG but don't like face covers on cases)
  • LIAN LI PC-7B plus II
  • COOLER MASTER RC-690 (recommended earlier here, pretty big tho')
 
Although other have recommended a dual-core Intel solution, you can go quad (assume you're willing to switch to AMD) for around the same price... ...maybe even cheaper. I just posted some numbers on my own thread of a proposed system build for $500 CAD; however, I'm adding a high-end GPU. Since you don't require a GPU, here a possible recommendation for high-end upgrade at low cost:

AMD 9850 2.5 Ghz Quad-core CPU (OCs to 3.0 GHz without trouble according to 90% of all forum posts) -- $180 CAD (cheaper in USD)
BIOSTAR TFORCE TA790GX3 Motherboard (SLI-capable) -- $135 (again, cheaper in USD)
Corsair Dominator 2 x 2GB dual-channel PC-8500 -- $54 (around the same in USD
OCZ Stealth Xtreme 500W PSU -- $40 (around the same in USD
---------------------------------------------
TOTAL: $409 CAD (probably around $360 to $380 USD)
 
Interesting case. But PSU sits over CPU (Lian Li). I like it though. Not sure you could find a heat sync/fan to fit for OC'ing though with the PSU in that location.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112158

The lack of space between the PSU fan and the processor will limit which CPU cooler you could use... and that could impact how well the CPU cooler performs.

That said, get whichever case that you prefer. You're the one who will have to live with the decision.
 
Interesting case. But PSU sits over CPU (Lian Li). I like it though. Not sure you could find a heat sync/fan to fit for OC'ing though with the PSU in that location.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811112158

You would have to use a low profile heatsink like the Scythe Shruiken, Sycthe Ninja Mini, Zalman CNPS8700, etc.

Ditch the PC-61 since it still uses an 80mm rear fan that won't cool that well for a modern ATX case. With that sole exception on the case, I concur with Tiraides on the case issue: just get the case you like the most.
 
Should probably build that list full out (anything in italic I already have):


  • GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R
  • Intel Core 2 Duo E8400
  • BFG Tech LS-550 (sounds like 550 would cover it)
    [*]OCZ PC2 8500 Repear (2x1G) - showed up last week
    [*]PNY GeForce 9600 GSO (sale at BB and used GC so great deal)
    [*]2 X 250Gb Seagate Perp Recording
    [*]1 X DVD-RW/DL
    [*]1 X CD-RW (may not bother installing this - depending on case)

Think I screwed up on the case. Should be:

  • LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B or
  • LIAN LI PC-7B plus II
  • LIAN LI Lan cool PC-K1B (didn't catch this one before)
 
I've used the PC-7B plus II before, and I liked it. But again, go with what you like. (Just make sure that you have a 120mm fan in the front and the rear of the case, at the very least.)
 
I've used the PC-7B plus II before, and I liked it. But again, go with what you like. (Just make sure that you have a 120mm fan in the front and the rear of the case, at the very least.)

Thanks for the feedback. I know I'm looking at going over my original budget but I tend to keep PCs on average about 3.5 years. So looking at a little nicer and some flexibility along with OC'ing.
 
For the prices of those steel Lian-Li's, I'd stick to their all aluminum instead. THe PC7 is great.

Although other have recommended a dual-core Intel solution, you can go quad (assume you're willing to switch to AMD) for around the same price... ...maybe even cheaper. ...

For most games, and even other tasks aside from video encoding, a dual core intel will outperform an AMD quadcore. IIRC, Phenoms need about a 400Mhz handicap, clock for clock, to perform on par with the Core2s. Also, Core2s OC much higher. A Q6600 can reach 3.6Ghz while a 9850 can only reach around 3.2Ghz. An E8400 can actually reach 4.2Ghz or higher.
 
For most games, and even other tasks aside from video encoding, a dual core intel will outperform an AMD quadcore. IIRC, Phenoms need about a 400Mhz handicap, clock for clock, to perform on par with the Core2s. Also, Core2s OC much higher. A Q6600 can reach 3.6Ghz while a 9850 can only reach around 3.2Ghz. An E8400 can actually reach 4.2Ghz or higher.


It's weird, because opinion differs depending on where you go. I found that several people today warned me of the disadvantages of going with the Phenom; however, as I researched around the Web, I found that many sites were promoting it specifically for it's OC ability (Black Edition). In most cases, even the lower end original Phenoms (9600) were easily clocked up to around 3.0 GHz on decent air-cooling (changing multiplier as opposed to FSB). An 800 MHz OC is nothing to sneeze at, and although Intel may OC a bit better, it's not complete dominance. In fact, on the OCer's Australia forum, users were getting the new Phenom 9850 and 9950 BEs to the 4.0 GHz range... ...with water and in one particular case, liquid nitrogen. ;)

Also, now that new games, such as GTA4, and so forth are designed to take advantage of multiple cores (in fact, GTAs box recommends quad-core... ...not dual-core), it doesn't make any sense to purchase a dual-core CPU any longer. It's much more logical to look ahead, and future-proof yourself.

And, yes, I agree with the statement made about the Q6600. No matter which sites I visited today, everyone seems to praise it. However, it's close to $100 more than the 9950 (when you factor in the cost of a heatsink / fan combo), and yet, according to all the benchmarks I reviewed, including real-world gaming, the 9850 and 9950 came out ahead of the Q6600 in several cases, and in most cases were right next to it, if just a bit behind. Hence, for the amount you save, it would be better to go with the AMD solution, and then put the extra $100 into a top-tier GPU, would it not? I'm not in anyway attempting to promote AMD... ...although, I will admit that my last two comps were both AMD-based, not including my laptop, which is a Centrino-Duo. I strictly look at price-performance of the overall system, and, other than a few special exceptions, Intel usually comes in way over-priced. Even at the dual-core level, I think I saw an AMD AthlonX2 6000+ 3.1 GHz for around $70 on NewEgg.ca. I mean, how can you beat that? Sure, the Intel offering may OC a bit better, but you also pay double for it. You could buy two of the AMD-equivalents for the same cost as the Intel processor, and use one as a paper-weight.
 
I've used the PC-7B plus II before, and I liked it. But again, go with what you like. (Just make sure that you have a 120mm fan in the front and the rear of the case, at the very least.)

I see the Lian Li PC-7B plus II does have a front and back 120mm fan. The BFG LS-550 has a 135mm exhaust fan. I assume that's exhaust as there is only one fan on that PSU and it makes sense it would be pulling air through and out the back panel where the holes are.

By the way did you find that the colors did or didn't match when installing drives into the 5.25" bays? Wondering if the aluminum is a much different color than the plastic face plates.

Man it's impossible to time a package deal at Newegg. By the time you think you have some stuff picked out free s/h and a sale dropped off. Grrr..
 
...The BFG LS-550 has a 135mm exhaust fan. I assume that's exhaust ...

By the way did you find that the colors did or didn't match when installing drives into the 5.25" bays? Wondering if the aluminum is a much different color than the plastic face plates.

Man it's impossible to time a package deal at Newegg. By the time you think you have some stuff picked out free s/h and a sale dropped off. Grrr..

Yes, its an exhaust fan.

They're both black, but one is plastic, the other is aluminum. You can order aluminum drive covers for the Lian-Li's if you want them to match more closely. However, do note that it still won't be a perfect match.

If its a good deal with free shipping, buy it! You have to act quick to cash in on good deals. ;)

... In most cases, even the lower end original Phenoms (9600) were easily clocked up to around 3.0 GHz on decent air-cooling (changing multiplier as opposed to FSB). An 800 MHz OC is nothing to sneeze at, and although Intel may OC a bit better, it's not complete dominance. ...
...
And, yes, I agree with the statement made about the Q6600. No matter which sites I visited today, everyone seems to praise it. However, it's close to $100 more than the 9950 (when you factor in the cost of a heatsink / fan combo), and yet, according to all the benchmarks I reviewed, including real-world gaming, the 9850 and 9950 came out ahead of the Q6600 in several cases, and in most cases were right next to it, if just a bit behind. Hence, for the amount you save, it would be better to go with the AMD solution, and then put the extra $100 into a top-tier GPU, would it not? ...

When I Googled the Phenoms, 3.0-3.2Ghz was the max OC. No, an 800Mhz OC is nothing to sneeze at, but the Q6600, and many other PDC/Core2's, routinely do over 1Ghz OC with minimal effort.

Yes, at stock speeds, the Phenoms outperform or on par with the lower clocked Q6600. So, if you're not OC'ing, they are good bang for buck quads. However, if you are OC'ing, the Q6600 would still get you better performance, even if only OC'd to 3.2Ghz instead of the 3.6Ghz max, since clock for clock, they're still faster.

$100 difference? Its more like $80. Even though, yes, if all you do is play games, then its better to spend that extra cash on a GPU. However, keep in mind that GPUs are the fastest depreciating components in a gaming system. So, for maintaining good performance throughout the years, its best to stick with midrange vidcards and upgrade often, selling the old gen to help offset the cost. You keep your CPU a lot longer than your GPU.

Yes, when gaming above 1280x1024, you're more GPU dependent, so either CPU would be fine -- yes, even a dual core. Its all about finding the right balance for yourself. Since dual cores can clock much higher, they can still perform well for most games. Whether this is the right path for you or not depends on the games you plan on playing and your budget. I just like to throw all the options out there, so people can make informed decisions.
 
Okay, my brother is giving me a hard time that the PSU I'm considering won't be enough. Especially after adding the PNY Verto and the chance of adding 2 HDDs for RAID. For clarification I'm looking at the recommended BFG LS-550. Here's how the build is looking at this time (yes, there have been changes since first concept):


  • BFG Tech LS-550

  • GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R

  • Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 ("possibly" overclock ~ 3.5/4.0)

  • 2 x 1Ghz OCZ PC2 8500 Reaper

  • PNY Verto 9600 GSO (PCIe X16 2.0, SLI ready - likely won't bother with SLI)

  • 2 x 250Gb Seagate SATA II hard drives
    • "Possibly" add 2 hard drives for RAID in the future

  • 5.25" Bay: NEC DVD-RW/DL

  • 5.25" Bay: LiteOn CD-RW (could drop this use only the DVD-RW/DL as it handles CDs)

  • 3.5" Bay: 9 in 1 Mulitmedia Card reader with 2 x USB 2.0 and 1 Firewire

  • USB Devices:
    • Ximeta External Enclosure/400Gb IDE (can go ethernet - slower however and am looking to go eSata with this)
    • HP C6180 All in One (can go ethernet)
    • Sandisk Sansa Docking Station
    • Logitech Mouse/Keyboard
    • USB - HP C6180 All in One
    • Logitech Quickcam Pro 5000
    • Occasionally connect a Timex IronMan DataLink watch to update

Probably not necessary to say this but I'm not looking to spend more money but I no doubt need to be real sure the LS-550 will take care of this. I'd been using a 500W in my older system without issue. Using all of the above and doing RAID at one point. I would think the new CPU is using less power but that video card is a concern.

Additional note: reading the box of the PNY Verto 9600 GSO it says: "Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel Core2 Extreme processor X6800." Other notes I found are: "1 x 6pin supplement power connector (no problem), a 400w or great power supply (with minimum 12v current rating of 26A)".

Sorry if this may seem like a stupid question but I'm ready to place this order and want to be sure. I don't want to buy more if I don't need it.
 
Yes, its an exhaust fan.

They're both black, but one is plastic, the other is aluminum. You can order aluminum drive covers for the Lian-Li's if you want them to match more closely. However, do note that it still won't be a perfect match.

If its a good deal with free shipping, buy it! You have to act quick to cash in on good deals. ;)

When I Googled the Phenoms, 3.0-3.2Ghz was the max OC. No, an 800Mhz OC is nothing to sneeze at, but the Q6600, and many other PDC/Core2's, routinely do over 1Ghz OC with minimal effort.

Yes, at stock speeds, the Phenoms outperform or on par with the lower clocked Q6600. So, if you're not OC'ing, they are good bang for buck quads. However, if you are OC'ing, the Q6600 would still get you better performance, even if only OC'd to 3.2Ghz instead of the 3.6Ghz max, since clock for clock, they're still faster.

$100 difference? Its more like $80. Even though, yes, if all you do is play games, then its better to spend that extra cash on a GPU. However, keep in mind that GPUs are the fastest depreciating components in a gaming system. So, for maintaining good performance throughout the years, its best to stick with midrange vidcards and upgrade often, selling the old gen to help offset the cost. You keep your CPU a lot longer than your GPU.

Yes, when gaming above 1280x1024, you're more GPU dependent, so either CPU would be fine -- yes, even a dual core. Its all about finding the right balance for yourself. Since dual cores can clock much higher, they can still perform well for most games. Whether this is the right path for you or not depends on the games you plan on playing and your budget. I just like to throw all the options out there, so people can make informed decisions.

$80 on sale for that Lian Li case. Have to pay s/h though. Was looking at Sonata III w/500w Earthwatt but not big on the front door as it covers even Pwr/Rst button. But the sale/free s/h is over now on Sonata III.

Gaming is something I will rarely do.
 
Okay, my brother is giving me a hard time that the PSU I'm considering won't be enough. Especially after adding the PNY Verto and the chance of adding 2 HDDs for RAID. For clarification I'm looking at the recommended BFG LS-550.

......

Additional note: reading the box of the PNY Verto 9600 GSO it says: "Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel Core2 Extreme processor X6800." Other notes I found are: "1 x 6pin supplement power connector (no problem), a 400w or great power supply (with minimum 12v current rating of 26A)".

The BFG LS-550 will be more than enough for your current setup. The BFG LS-550 has 41A on the +12V rail and that 26A requirement for the 9600GSO is for the entire system + the card, not just the card alone. In addition, that 26A requirement is actually a bit inflated since GPU manufacturers like to cover their asses since there's a shit-ton of shitty PSUs in the 400W range out there barely capable of providing 150W of power cleanly. Anyway, don't worry about the BFG PSU since it's a high QUALITY PSU with 41A on the +12V rail, more than enough for your current system
 
The BFG LS-550 will be more than enough for your current setup. The BFG LS-550 has 41A on the +12V rail and that 26A requirement for the 9600GSO is for the entire system + the card, not just the card alone. In addition, that 26A requirement is actually a bit inflated since GPU manufacturers like to cover their asses since there's a shit-ton of shitty PSUs in the 400W range out there barely capable of providing 150W of power cleanly. Anyway, don't worry about the BFG PSU since it's a high QUALITY PSU with 41A on the +12V rail, more than enough for your current system

Awesome but no remarks about handling a couple of more HDDs and OC'ing.
 
Awesome but no remarks about handling a couple of more HDDs and OC'ing.

LOL!

The LS-550 will still be enough even if you add another 4 hard drives and overclock the shit out of that E8400 to 4Ghz.

Didn't catch this while going through the thread but how much will you be paying for the 9600GSO?
 
LOL!

The LS-550 will still be enough even if you add another 4 hard drives and overclock the shit out of that E8400 to 4Ghz.

Didn't catch this while going through the thread but how much will you be paying for the 9600GSO?

LOL... glad to see your laughing. But if I gotta send shit back and deal with that much I get pissed off.

Also, it's a curse of us who are very detailed oriented. :D
 
LOL... glad to see your laughing. But if I gotta send shit back and deal with that much I get pissed off.

Also, it's a curse of us who are very detailed oriented. :D

I consider myself detailed oriented and I can tell you for a fact that the LS-550 will be more than enough for your system. Take a look at this power chart:
http://hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTUzMSw5LCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==

Note the wattage for HD4870 Crossfire: 458W. The test system was "Intel QX9770, 2GB Corsair, RAM, the video card(s), 3 WD Raptor Hard Drives, a DVD/CDRom, a floppy drive, and a Koolance Exos water cooling system." The QX9770 uses just as much, maybe even more, power as a 4Ghz OC'd E8400. Two HD4870 cards by themselves uses significantly more power than the 9600GSO/GT. Yet combined, the QX9770, two HD4870 CF and 3 hard drives only took up 458W of power.

So once again: the BFG LS-550 550W PSU will be enough
 
In case you needed a 2nd opinion... yes, the LS-550 will be enough. :p If you want to spend more money, then by all means, knock yourself out and get the Corsair 750W for ~$100 pre-rebate, or the 650W for ~$86 pre-rebate.
 
You would have to use a low profile heatsink like the Scythe Shruiken, Sycthe Ninja Mini, Zalman CNPS8700, etc.

Which heat sync would you recommend for OC'ing. Not getting that case so shouldn't need to concern myself with a low profile unit.
 
Which heat sync would you recommend for OC'ing. Not getting that case so shouldn't need to concern myself with a low profile unit.

Xigmatek HDT-S1283 w/ retention kit for easier/more secure installation.

$37 - Xigmatek HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler ($10 MIR)
$9 - Xigmatek ACK-I7751 LGA775 Bolt-Thru-Kit
$4 - Tuniq TX-2 Cooling Thermal Compound

Looks similar to: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835887016 for even less. Hmm...

Thing also sounds big. Apparently it's tall when installed. I assume this replaces the stock heat sync/fan that comes with the E8400.

Yes, its tall, but it also cools very effectively while being very quiet. It performs on par with the renowned $60 TRUE120 (which doesn't even come with a fan). So, which case are you going with?
 
So, which case are you going with?

Not sure. Sux having to pay some of these shipping prices. $20-$30. I'm avoiding cases with doors that swing open because this box sits in a cavity in my desk. So a swinging door is a pain. Plus, I'm thinking the Lian Li might look like crap with the optical drive face plates. Heard the matching face plates don't really look that great. Here's a list at Newegg I'm looking at (all black):


  • Antec Three Hundred
  • Antec Sonata III 500 (nice idea but has door in the way, assme the 500w PSU would be fine)
  • COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW
  • COOLER MASTER Centurion 534 RC-534-KKN2-GP
  • COOLER MASTER Elite 330 RC-330-KKN1-GP
  • COOLER MASTER Centurion 590 RC-590-KKN1-GP

  • GIGABYTE Triton 180
  • LIAN LI PC-7B plus II
  • LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B
  • NZXT HUSH (has door but swings other direction - might work? External I/O ports in tough spot)

I'm open to ideas.
 
Here are my opinions on those cases... just remember, cases are highly subjective, so you may or may not agree with me...

  • The 300 is ok, but feels flimsy to me still, like its bigger brother, the 900.
  • Sonata is a great case for quiet computing, but lacks space. The door is removable, though.
  • Centurion 5 is a good case, too, but the front fan is 80mm, so the Centurion 534 is a better choice since it uses 120mm fans for both intake/exhaust. These offer more space than the Elite 330. The 532 is also a good option if you need the power/fp_ports on top, though I don't see it on newegg anymore.
  • Elite 330 is a good, basic case, but again, lacks space.
  • I have no complaints about the 590... actually, just that it doesn't look as good as the 690. :p I like cases with the PSU on the bottom. Though it makes cable management is bit harder, it makes the system more physically stable with better weight distribution.
  • The Triton reminds me of the Centurions, just with a non-mesh face.
  • Lian-Li's are precision aluminum. I love them. However, this is an entry level Lian-Li, so its HDD cage isn't very good, no slideout mobo tray on this model, and it has little noise reduction features. I think you mentioned all these already, lol.
  • I dislike steel Lian-Li's.
  • Hush has nice noise reduction, but not sure how effective it is. The Antec P180/182 series has been the best at noise reduction, IMO.
  • In general, if the case will be below your desk, I'd choose something with the power button and front panel ports on the top of the case. If its above your desk, or on it, then get a case with the controls/ports more easily accessible.
  • Shop around... many places have free shipping, like buy.com, amazon.com, etc... and even some places have lower prices so the shipping rate doesn't inflate the price so much (provantage, svc.com, etc).
 
Here are my opinions on those cases as well (Personal and subjective opinion that may not necessarily apply to you):
- The Antec 300 is decent but like Enginurd noted, it's kind of flimsy. I would recommend this case if it was $60 or less with free shipping and if the RC-590 was at least $20 more once shipping is factored in.

- My little bro's PC was built using the older Sonata II so I have a fair idea of how good the Sonata III will be (designs are similar). It's a pretty quiet case and I like the perpendicular HDD cage since it makes easier to install hard drives. However I dislike the way the fan is mounted behind the HDD cage and not in front of it for optimal HDD cooling. It is a bit cramped but still a decent case nontheless.

- Look at enginurd's opinion on the Centurion 5

- Excellent case. I just wish it came with another HDD cage. Then again I doubt many people need 8 hard drives right away. I call it the poor man's Stacker case in terms of layout. :)

- Never worked/played with a Triton but layout looks a bit sparse.

- Great case but as Enginurd noted: no removable mobo tray which Lian Li cases are known for and little noise reduction features. Another complaint I have is that the HDD cage is pretty small. They could have added just one more HDD bay and it still wouldn't interfere with the graphics card.

- I like the look and layout of this case. The two front 120mm fans are a huge plus in my book since that makes sure that all 5 hard drives plus the graphics card. The perpendicular HDD cage is also a huge plus as well.

- I hate how the door looks. Kind of half assed IMO. If that door was whole and there was a grill or mesh or opening of some sort to allow air while the door was closed, I would take a closer look at it. With that said, I like how the door opens on the right since I usually place my PCs to the right of me.
 
- I like the look and layout of this case. The two front 120mm fans are a huge plus in my book since that makes sure that all 5 hard drives plus the graphics card. The perpendicular HDD cage is also a huge plus as well.

Which case are you referring to here? I had several Cooler Masters listed and it looks none of these hit home. I think you may be referring to the Liancool LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B.

As for the NZXT Hush. I would think it would be quiet the way it's insulated. Also, if that door could be taken off I think it might look pretty good. Better than the Sonata III. Then, maybe get rid of those blue lights. My office already looks like a runway.

Review of Hush with photos: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NZXT/Hush. Still not sure what to think of this.

I'll only use the HDD lower cage if I RAID. I'm using a Icy Dock that holds 3 SATAII drives and fits into two 5.25" bays.

Looks like you're recommending all three of these:
$37 - Xigmatek HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler ($10 MIR)
$9 - Xigmatek ACK-I7751 LGA775 Bolt-Thru-Kit
$4 - Tuniq TX-2 Cooling Thermal Compound

Xigmatek ACK-I7751 LGA775 Bolt-Thru-Kit: Is this to attach the fan to that heat sink? Odd it isn't a kit. Apparently replaces the attachment kit that comes with the heat sink.
 
[*]Centurion 5 is a good case, too, but the front fan is 80mm, so the Centurion 534 is a better choice since it uses 120mm fans for both intake/exhaust. These offer more space than the Elite 330. The 532 is also a good option if you need the power/fp_ports on top, though I don't see it on newegg anymore.
[/LIST]

534 at Newegg, this must be it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119106

I see, it's the 532 that's been "deactivated": http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119094
 
Which case are you referring to here? I had several Cooler Masters listed and it looks none of these hit home. I think you may be referring to the Liancool LIAN LI Lancool PC-K7B.
That's the case I'm referring to.

Xigmatek ACK-I7751 LGA775 Bolt-Thru-Kit: Is this to attach the fan to that heat sink? Odd it isn't a kit. Apparently replaces the attachment kit that comes with the heat sink.

The bolt thru kit is for attaching the heatsink to the motherboard. It replaces the Intel derived mounting system that the Xigamatek uses. The bolt thru kit allows for an easier and more secure attachment of the heatsink ot the motherboard
 
The bolt thru kit is for attaching the heatsink to the motherboard. It replaces the Intel derived mounting system that the Xigamatek uses. The bolt thru kit allows for an easier and more secure attachment of the heatsink ot the motherboard

Yikes, is that something you want to do? How does that work?
 
Yikes, is that something you want to do? How does that work?

Intel's way: plastic push pins that you push down and they anchor under the board.

Bolt thru kit: Metal backplate prevents the board from warping due to the pressure of the larger heatsink. Metal spring loaded screws provide balanced distribution of pressure throughout the IHS surface, and screw into the backplate from the topside of the board.

metal > plastic
unwarped > warped
 
Intel's way: plastic push pins that you push down and they anchor under the board.

Bolt thru kit: Metal backplate prevents the board from warping due to the pressure of the larger heatsink. Metal spring loaded screws provide balanced distribution of pressure throughout the IHS surface, and screw into the backplate from the topside of the board.

metal > plastic
unwarped > warped

So apparently there is nothing this thing will make contact with. Man, if you have to RMA this Mb you'd be SOL. So that X shaped thing goes on the bottom of the Mb and bolts through from the top? As I mentioned apparently the X shaped thing doesn't touch "anything" on the bottom of the board.

I take it you don't need to use this thing or is it recommended to do so as the Mb would warp?
 
The backplate comes with a piece of non-conductive cushioning to keep the metal portions from touching the board. It's also designed for LGA775 motherboards, so the screws will line up properly with the backplate.

(Plus, it comes with instructions... hint, hint....)

While the retention bracket kit is optional, it's highly recommended. The screws are much easier to work with (while being less prone to breaking) than the push-pins. I've even remembered reading a couple of posts (don't know where, though) where some people who've bought the HSF ended up buying the retention bracket later... all because they were having problems mounting the HSF correctly.
 
The backplate comes with a piece of non-conductive cushioning to keep the metal portions from touching the board. It's also designed for LGA775 motherboards, so the screws will line up properly with the backplate.

(Plus, it comes with instructions... hint, hint....)

While the retention bracket kit is optional, it's highly recommended. The screws are much easier to work with (while being less prone to breaking) than the push-pins. I've even remembered reading a couple of posts (don't know where, though) where some people who've bought the HSF ended up buying the retention bracket later... all because they were having problems mounting the HSF correctly.

So this thing can be installed without doing ANY damage? It would need to come off and look like OEM if the Mb were to be RMA'd.
 
Also, if you look at the picture of the backplate on the newegg site, there's a plastic cover to insulate the backplate from the motherboard. The cushion tiraides speaks of also comes with an adhesive layer... I don't use this layer, personally. I leave the film on the cushion so the backplate does not stick to the board.

If you're adding this HSF to an existing system, ditching the backplate retention kit allows you the opportunity to install the HSF without the need to remove the motherboard. On a new build, its recommended because of the stronger mounting technique, and should be installed onto the board before installing the mobo into the case.
 
Also, if you look at the picture of the backplate on the newegg site, there's a plastic cover to insulate the backplate from the motherboard. The cushion tiraides speaks of also comes with an adhesive layer... I don't use this layer, personally. I leave the film on the cushion so the backplate does not stick to the board.

If you're adding this HSF to an existing system, ditching the backplate retention kit allows you the opportunity to install the HSF without the need to remove the motherboard. On a new build, its recommended because of the stronger mounting technique, and should be installed onto the board before installing the mobo into the case.

Understood, thanks. I assume the OEM web site has instructions. I'd like to see how this thing is installed before I include it in the order. Looking up details now.

Will this hog fit in a standard case setup? Also, when OC'ing a CPU does this shorten the lifespan or simply toast it at some point?

edit: couldn't find anything. Trying to picture how this thing installs. I'm a visual sort or person.
 
I'll take a pic with the Xigmatek mounted using a backplate when I get home.

Don't see a rebate on this. OCZ has a $10 MIR at Newegg on the Vendetta2. Getting it down to $40.

It looks like the rebate is gone. It was there for about 6 months, lol. Then during the holidays it was priced at $28 with no rebate. New years came and it went back up and ditched the rebate. Oh wellz, still a good price for a cooler that performs on par with the $60 TRUE120 and already comes with its own quiet fan.

Heh, I wouldn't bother with a $10 MIR. I'd just go for the cheaper option and avoid as many rebates as possible.
 
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