Could use some opinions on upgrades

  • I'd like to see how this thing is installed before I include it in the order. Not finding anything. More of a visual myself.
  • Will this hog fit in a standard case setup?
  • Also, when OC'ing a CPU does this shorten the lifespan or simply toast it at some point?
    • I'm interested in OC'ing but if I'm going to kill the CPU I'd rather not OC and spend the money on the parts to do the job.
 
  • I'd like to see how this thing is installed before I include it in the order. Not finding anything. More of a visual myself.
  • Will this hog fit in a standard case setup?
  • Also, when OC'ing a CPU does this shorten the lifespan or simply toast it at some point?
    • I'm interested in OC'ing but if I'm going to kill the CPU I'd rather not OC and spend the money on the parts to do the job.

- You can see it installed here (The Kingwin is just a rebranded version of the Xigmatek, Same exact HSF just with different names):
http://hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTUxMiwzLCxoZW50aHVzaWE=
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/755/3/
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...1-xigmatek-hdt-s1283-cpu-cooler-review-7.html

- Yup should fit in most ATX cases that has a rear 120mm fan.

- If you overclock correctly and safely, the lifespan of the CPU will NOT decrease nor would it ever become "toast" at one point. Only if you're a monumental retard could you ever kill a Core 2 Duo CPU. In fact, I've never heard of anyone actually killing their C2D CPUs in the past two years that CPU line has been out.

So don't worry about overclocking and the health of your PC. Do it right and it'll last just as long as if it was on stock speeds,
 
Danny:

I wonder if this thing is going to clear those blue heat sinks on this Gigabyte Mb? I've read at one of the links you provided above that they added a heat sink to the chip set(s). I assume this wouldn't be necessary on this Mb considering the extra copper and the sinks already on it?

What's the scoop on the 4 pipe version? Is it smaller and better or not? More contact points.

Lastly, I've just used standard TIM that comes with the CPU in the past but of course never OC'd. Certainly have no real opinion of your choice of the Tuniq TX-2 since I lack experience here but it didn't come in the "conclusion" here: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.p...sk=view&id=138&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=6, but I assume this is splitting hairs.
 
With either the stock installation or the bracket, you shouldn't run into any sort of clearance problem with that Xigmatek HSF and that Gigabyte UD3R mobo.

The 4 Pipe versions about the same as the 3 Pipe version from the reviews I've read so far. In fact a few of those reviews show the 4 pipe version performing even worse than the 3 pipe version.

To be fair, I never once recommended TX2 in this thread. Anyway, you can go ahead and rely on the results from that roundup or Enginurd's recommendations. Totally up to you.
 
To be fair, I never once recommended TX2 in this thread. Anyway, you can go ahead and rely on the results from that roundup or Enginurd's recommendations. Totally up to you.

Shit, you're right. Sorry about that to the both of you. Throw out any thoughts on this if you care to.

Enginurd recommended:

$37 - Xigmatek HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler ($10 MIR)
$9 - Xigmatek ACK-I7751 LGA775 Bolt-Thru-Kit
$4 - Tuniq TX-2 Cooling Thermal Compound

Sux, I know you guys weren't huge on the Antec 300. I see it's $48 on sale with free S/H. Now if it only had a 3.5" external bay. I need at least 3 - 5.25" external bays. Arghh!

No reset button on the CM 590, wtf?
 
If the 300 is at a good price and you like it, go for it!

Heh, I only listed one TIM? weird... I typically recommend AS5, MX-2, and TX-2, since those are the three that I've used most recently and they perform similarly. Looking at the round1 chart in your link, it looks like there's only 1-3 degrees of difference between most those in their tests. AS5 is probably the most commonly recommended TIM, but if you want OCZ Freeze or that other one, go for it.

In my own personal testing, my results are similar to that reviews. AS5 and MX-2 perform the same, or within 1°C of each other. TX-2 was typically 1°C hotter than either. Personally, since only a few degrees separate them all, I just use whatever is within my reach, since I'm not trying to break records. :p

When's the last time you used a reset button? lol... I don't even bother with it. My buddy actually wired his reset switch to his clear CMOS leads, since he plays with his OC/BIOS settings a lot.
 
If the 300 is at a good price and you like it, go for it!

Heh, I only listed one TIM? weird... I typically recommend AS5, MX-2, and TX-2, since those are the three that I've used most recently and they perform similarly. Looking at the round1 chart in your link, it looks like there's only 1-3 degrees of difference between most those in their tests. AS5 is probably the most commonly recommended TIM, but if you want OCZ Freeze or that other one, go for it.

In my own personal testing, my results are similar to that reviews. AS5 and MX-2 perform the same, or within 1°C of each other. TX-2 was typically 1°C hotter than either. Personally, since only a few degrees separate them all, I just use whatever is within my reach, since I'm not trying to break records. :p

When's the last time you used a reset button? lol... I don't even bother with it. My buddy actually wired his reset switch to his clear CMOS leads, since he plays with his OC/BIOS settings a lot.

Honestly, when it comes to TIM I'm clueless. I'm looking for a good/affordable solution. Looks like TX-2 is the least expensive out of the three at Newegg but I didn't compare volume between them. TX-2 should be a go.

Reset, every once in a while but my last build was just over 4 years ago. Maybe with a new box setup it won't be needed. I just ran into it rarely and it's handy. But, you can hold in the pwr button and force a shutdown.
 
It looks like a bigger version of the AC Freezer 7 Pro. Despite its larger size, I doubt it performs much better from the little info I found on google. Then again, its hard to beat free. :p If you want to go over 3.2Ghz, I'd get Xigmatek.
 
I must have my head up my ass. I'm trying to make one order so I can get this shit in and build it. The damn BFG PSU is no longer on sale and the s/h has been reapplied so that just shot the price up about $55!! I guess the thing is to order each item as you find it. To preoccupied to get this done.

The reason I'm trying to place one order is to meet the 90 day no interest on BillMeLater minimum purchase.

What about OCZ, these any good:

  • OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ600MXSP 600W $65 after MIR free s/h
  • OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI 600W $60 after MIR free s/h
  • OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W $60 after MIR free s/h

Sorry to be such a pain in the ass. Was actually going to place order today. The CM 590 on sale at ProVantage so was going to get this case there and also place order at Newegg. Don't want to spend another $50 on that BFG PSU.
 
What about OCZ, these any good:

  • OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ600MXSP 600W $65 after MIR free s/h
  • OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI 600W $60 after MIR free s/h
  • OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W $60 after MIR free s/h

Nope, none of those PSUs are worth the money. Right now, one of the best deals on a PSU is the Antec Earthwatts EA650 for $80. While not as good as the BFG IMO, it does offer a bit more power on the +12V rail (45A for the EA650 and 41A on the BFG) and it is still of better quality than any of those OCZ PSUs.
 
Why would anyone care what the Spec code or batch # are from the Intel E8400?

Pretty much for overclocking. How high of an overclock you can get with the E8400 is pretty much random: Some can do 4Ghz while some can only do 3.6Ghz and others can do 4.2Ghz. Heavy overclockers try to reduce the randomness of getting a "dud" E8400 by looking at the batch # or spec codes of E8400 CPUs that have reach high OCs (4Ghz+). However even CPUs within the same batch # will still overclock differently from one another.
 
Pretty much for overclocking. How high of an overclock you can get with the E8400 is pretty much random: Some can do 4Ghz while some can only do 3.6Ghz and others can do 4.2Ghz. Heavy overclockers try to reduce the randomness of getting a "dud" E8400 by looking at the batch # or spec codes of E8400 CPUs that have reach high OCs (4Ghz+). However even CPUs within the same batch # will still overclock differently from one another.

So it's a crap shoot. Unless someone has a mysterious list of which does what speed.

Was on eBay:

Question & Answer Answered On
Q: what does the sSpec code on the chip or label on the box say? thanks Jan-11-09
A: The sSpec code is "SLAPL".
Q: what is the batch # Jan-07-09
A: The batch number is Q750A208.
 
So it's a crap shoot. Unless someone has a mysterious list of which does what speed.

Was on eBay:

Question & Answer Answered On
Q: what does the sSpec code on the chip or label on the box say? thanks Jan-11-09
A: The sSpec code is "SLAPL".
Q: what is the batch # Jan-07-09
A: The batch number is Q750A208.

Ahh that's what prompted the question. But yes it's somewhat of a crapshoot. But occasionally you can see certain trends if you have a large enough sample size. IIRC, back in 2007 a few people noticed that their E6600 weren't overclocking as high as other E6600 CPUs. As it turned out, it was being seen that the later batches of E6600 were not overclocking as high as older batch E6600 CPUs.

I wouldn't be surprised if that list was buried somewhere in the Xtreamsystems.org forums.
 
Ahh that's what prompted the question. But yes it's somewhat of a crapshoot. But occasionally you can see certain trends if you have a large enough sample size. IIRC, back in 2007 a few people noticed that their E6600 weren't overclocking as high as other E6600 CPUs. As it turned out, it was being seen that the later batches of E6600 were not overclocking as high as older batch E6600 CPUs.

Does that same thought carry today with the E8400?
 
Does that same thought carry today with the E8400?

Actually you know what? Kind of. The E0 stepping of the E8400 does overclock a bit better than the older C0 stepping of the E8400. The G0 stepping of the Q6600 does overclock a bit better than the older B3 stepping of the Q6600.
 
Cool. So it's clear what should I look for. However on Newegg, for example, you'd never know what you're getting unless it's a fare assumption that you're getting a later version.
 
Cool. So it's clear what should I look for. However on Newegg, for example, you'd never know what you're getting unless it's a fare assumption that you're getting a later version.

Yeah it's kind of crapshoot sometimes with Newegg and other onlines stores when it comes to which revision, stepping, and batch number you get. But it's been about 5-6 months since the E0 stepping was released so there's a good chance that you'll get that stepping.
 
The BFG LS-550 has a 135mm fan. Where are you getting 80mm from?

The BFG does have a 135mm fan. In my statement above I was referring to the PC Power PSU along with the MIR statement. I meant to put a "?" after the statement, "80mm have a negative impact" wondering if this may be a downside on the PC Power unit.
 
The thing about 80mm fans is that they have to spin faster (and thus produce more noise) to push the same amount of as as either an 92mm fan or a 120mm fan. Supposedly, the PC Power & Cooling model that you (and genester) were referring to is designed for quiet operation. However, most power supplies with at least a 120mm fan are generally quiet.
 
I may just throw in a new SATA DVD burner. I assume SATA is the way to go? Was curious as to what DVD burners were the front runners. Currently using Lite-On and Nec IDE drives. Newegg has several with free s/h.
 
NewEgg must have made one of its unannounced weekly price changes -- but you could still find it by looking around:

$78.24 - Antec Earthwatts EA650 650W PSU (free shipping)

Here's a commonly recommended DVD burner around here:

$25.99 - Samsung SH-S223F SATA DVD burner (free shipping)
 
NewEgg must have made one of its unannounced weekly price changes -- but you could still find it by looking around:

$78.24 - Antec Earthwatts EA650 650W PSU (free shipping)

Here's a commonly recommended DVD burner around here:

$25.99 - Samsung SH-S223F SATA DVD burner (free shipping)

I'm sure I sound like I'm whining here but I've been trying to package some goods together at Newegg and do the BillMeLater program. Their prices change fairly frequently. I'm surprised. I get a bundle together and when I'm ready to order there can be a pretty good price jump. Most recent was that BFG PSU. With the sale off and s/h added back in it jumped $55.
 
Heh, Danny said it was $80 yesterday, so I thought it was still on, lol. Yes, prices change frequently on the egg.

Nope, none of those PSUs are worth the money. Right now, one of the best deals on a PSU is the Antec Earthwatts EA650 for $80. While not as good as the BFG IMO, it does offer a bit more power on the +12V rail (45A for the EA650 and 41A on the BFG) and it is still of better quality than any of those OCZ PSUs.
 
Heh, Danny said it was $80 yesterday, so I thought it was still on, lol. Yes, prices change frequently on the egg.

I saw the same thing yesterday. Then again, I rely on Google these days to find parts that are on sale. (Buy.com FTW ;) )
 
One thing that's clear. The days of good deals on eBay are gone in my opinion. Seems used goods, in general, have gone up in price. Newegg beats eBay when I compare. Kind of funny. Maybe it's the competition of bidding. Ya think.
 
You're right, but there are a lot of factors in play, other than eBay. eBay, as a buying option, has been dead to many of us for some time now.
 
I'm sure I sound like I'm whining here but I've been trying to package some goods together at Newegg and do the BillMeLater program. Their prices change fairly frequently. I'm surprised.

Yeah not so surprising for us anymore. Thats when I see a deal on newegg, I just snap it up before it goes back to the original price.
 
The idea of bundling what I need and doing the BillMeLater isn't going to work to well.
 
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